MrSinistar's Multipass build!

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by MrSinistar, Dec 7, 2011.

  1. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    My 21st birthday was yesterday and one of the presents I got was MattMunson's epic Multipass kit!! I can't wait to get this started :D One thing I will note though, I will not do electronics on this kit. My reasoning is since the LED only lights up for a fraction of a second in one shot in the entire movie, I can do away without lights. If this was a Blade Runner Blaster build or a HAL 9000 build, that's a completely different story.

    Anyways, onto the build!

    My parts are in the bowl of water right now, so I can remove the paper backing. Sanding and prep work's up next. Also, I noticed that when I was looking for the multipass paint at the automotive store, the color code that Matt gave in his tutorial is not used anymore. The new color code that Dupli-Color uses is BGM0534 Gray Met which replaces the old T183 color. I actually really like this color; if it's not too metalflakey, I may use it for my Worldcon-style Blade Runner Blaster build...hmmm.
     
  2. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The only thing I will say to maybe change your mind about the LED is that it is REALLY satisfying to press on that yellow button and see that little, red light come on.

    Other than that, interested to see the progress. This was one of the most fun build I've done yet (considering all of the hair pulling builds I've been involved in.)
     
    Sean Hebein likes this.
  3. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Well, okay, rhetorically, let's say I'm doing the electronics. Do I need a resistor or can I just get away with a 2516 battery and parts from a keychain light?
     
  4. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That's what I did ;).

    I got a really good keychain light that had a clicker disk inside so mine has a really satisfying click to it.
     
  5. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Okay, great, that's good to hear. I think I know which keychain light you're talking about, lol. Which terminals on the LED do I need to hook up to which part?
     
  6. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I hooked up all four. I don't remember, but I think it is alternating + - + -.

    I really don't know anything about electronics but I manage.
     
  7. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Ah, you're absolutely right. On the side that doesn't have the printed text, it's + - + -. I just tested the light with the 12V battery from my Blade Runner blaster build.

    Okay, I feel more confident in installing the LED now. Thanks benhs!
     
  8. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    No problem. You'll need to do a little dremeling too though to free up some room. Have you seen any info on doing that?
     
  9. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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  10. Zombie Killer

    Zombie Killer Sr Member

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  11. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Ahh, I did miss it. Sorry bout that, Glen.

    What red paint did you guys used for the red strip?

    Well, I think I got enough stuff to go ahead and start the build...I'll post some progress pics tonight after class.
     
  12. Zombie Killer

    Zombie Killer Sr Member

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    I ended up using a piece of red acrylic rod used for the presidents phone antenna.
     
  13. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I attached it first and just used acrylic.
     
  14. MattMunson

    MattMunson Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Less talk, more build!!! :lol

    Looking forward to seeing pics, bro! Can't wait to see your build
     
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  15. AGxM

    AGxM Well-Known Member

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    I have two of these kits - one in the UK and now one in Hong Kong.......the LED thing is a fear for me s I am used to just paint and stick it together type kits (even then I threw them across the room and my ex had to repair them though my lack of dexterity and patience!) so looking forward to this also and hoping it will inspire me.

    Mish
     
  16. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Nothing too special but here's my prep pics:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Going to cut up the new battery cover right now. I'm going to do the battery cover the same way that Charles Kline did in his build, as I feel it's the most accurate and it makes the most sense.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2011
  17. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I went ahead a do the cuts on the front and back panels.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Front panel came out great, but the back got messed up ever so slightly. My perfectionist sense is tingling!

    [​IMG]

    Can I fix this at all (like very little bondo putty) or should I just ignore it?
     
    benhs1898 likes this.
  18. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    At least, sand it to make it even.
     
  19. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Sanding it helped a lot, thanks.
     
  20. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    WOOO. It's so fun!
     
  21. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    "WOO" IS RIGHT! lol, anyways, I got the first part of the battery cover done. I need to cut up one of the spare circles to make sure everything fits and then glue it all together. I also got one of those Rayovac LED keychains and grabbed the battery and other parts...now I need to figure out how to wire it all up.
     
  22. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I used a bigger 3V than the one that came in my keychain. That way, it fits snugly.
     
  23. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Ahh, I was wondering about that...I think Charles used a 2516 battery for his build.

    I would upload more pictures of my build, but my camera and/or my computer not corroborating. I finally found the correct sunglasses at a Dollar Store...they were a little more difficult to find than I though. I actually bought two sunglasses as I noticed they're in two slightly different colors. I'm going to check out screenshots and compare the colors; however, if I can't make a 100% sure decision, I'll just pick one that's the most aesthetically pleasing.
     
  24. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I went against accuracy because I don't like how the tortoise looks. To me it was too obvious what it came from.

    Cool that you've made progress.

    OH, before you start putting graphics on or anything like that. After you paint it, you'll want a nice layer or two of clear coat enamel. I didn't use it and I regret it. The paint wears off easily at the edges without the clear coat.
     
  25. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    I agree with you, it does seem rather obvious where it's from...so many sci-fi movie props have been ruined by my knowledge of hockey equipment, haha.

    After my first Crow T. Robot build, I realized how important clear coat is, so I put it on all of my props now.

    I got the sunglass frame plastic off and I was ready to boil some water, when I noticed how pliable and soft the plastic was, so I practiced with one piece and I grabbed another and slowly bent it into shape. It's not completely straight but it's pretty close and it looks great when compared to the multipass photo from the Making of book.

    I was hoping to install the rod by just having the middle piece hold it and glue the other panels with the rod still in place, but the rod is just too thick, so I sanded it down like how Matt describes it in his tutorial.

    *goes back to slowly cutting out another battery cover after messing up the first one*
     
  26. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    So, I was test fitting parts, and I had some questions about the rings. How many rings go on the top panel? One or two? Also, how does the button not wiggle around inside the cavity?
     
  27. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I attached a thin, plastic backing to my button. I cut it out of some blister packaging from some toy. I cut it into a circle just large enough to fit inside the wider rings. I have two rings for the top panel. The smaller opening for the button, and a wider one under it.
     
  28. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    updates?
     
  29. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I haven't worked on the Multipass in a while, since I'm a bit unsure about the button mechanism. I did finally try out soldering for my HAL 9000 build and that worked great so I'm excited to try that out for the multipass soon.
     
  30. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    What is your issue about the button, I may be able to help.
     
  31. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Sorry about the delay, benhs; didn't see you posted. My button is just too loose inside the holder. I want it to stay still and secure instead of just wiggling around inside the compartment. I'm thinking of putting some styrene bumpers inside or maybe making one of the rings thicker with apoxie sculpt or something.
     
  32. benhs1898

    benhs1898 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hmm. Show me some pics of what you've got.
     
  33. MrSinistar

    MrSinistar Well-Known Member

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    Well, I got the same parts in Matt's kit like everyone else. Am I arranging the parts in the wrong way?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    These two images show how the button moves inside.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The two discs on the very top are the thicker rings.
     

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