MPP bubble strip advice

[Brothervader]

I've got a couple questions for all of you out there. I'm going to be ordering a bubble strip from Roy, and I want to know the best, and cleanest way to cut it accurately for my Vader hilt. I need to do the same thing for the circuit card that goes underneath it. Thanks!

 

[thd9791]

Best and cleanest?

Utility knife with a new blade, metal ruler. Score the board 50-70 times and snap it in a vice. Repeat for each side, can't get much cleaner and straight than that.

 

[Brothervader]

Best and cleanest?

Utility knife with a new blade, metal ruler. Score the board 50-70 times and snap it in a vice. Repeat for each side, can't get much cleaner and straight than that.

What about the circuit card?

 

[thd9791]

What about the circuit card?

I misread - that's the best method for PCB fiberglass, the card.

Bubbles I always use a hobby razor saw, they come with little miter boxes and I use them to cut plastics (T track, bubble strips, etc.)

 

[Brothervader]

Actually, I need advice on both! Your information was exactly what I needed.

 

[Halliwax]

One of the most used tools I have, and it’s cheap

ELMERS X-Acto Miter Box 6 Carded (X75320) Amazon.com: ELMERS X-Acto Miter Box 6 Carded (X75320): Office Products

Like Tom said, this tool can be used on both the bubble strip and circuit board

Cuts like butter

I sanded the edges of the circuit board, giving it a bevel like the real prop

 

[Halliwax]

Don’t forget if doing ESB to cut the bubble strip in the correct location, one bubble is missing 1/4 of it

 

[Brothervader]

Thanks for all the great advice guys. I got my bubble strip from Roy, and my clamp card from Slothfurnace this week.

I came across a pretty rare 2005 Master replicas Darth Vader lightsaber. I think it was one of the early ones they produced that actually had a working clamp. It was in perfect condition, and an absolute steal for $100 on eBay. I just wanted a screen accurate hilt for display. It is a budget build, otherwise I would have gone with a Romans hilt.

I pulled off the cheap plastic wires, and added movie accurate colored wires. The fun part was adding the accurate bubble strip and clamp card. A quick shout-out to Halliwax for his advice on how to cut the bubble strip and card. The hobby saw worked perfectly! After trimming and sanding the card so it would fit in the clamp, there was one more little detail I wanted to add. The movie props has part of the screw threads exposed on one side of the clamp. Instead of replacing the post with the pressure pin, I simply grabbed a screw that was the right diameter, and cut off about a quarter of an inch. I glued it to the other side of the clamp to make it look like it was the other end of the post. The last thing I am going to do is add some weathering to the hilt. Right now it is a little too shiny and new.

My OT lightsaber collection is nearly complete!

 

[chazzychaz]

the material is known as G10. very tuff stuff, developed for NASA from what I understand. nothing will dull a knife faster, or a saw, I apply tape as a line or barrier then use the Dremel cutoff wheel then file the edge even.

 

[H0llyw00d]

All my builds are battle-ready FX hilts so I'm not overly concerned with screen accuracy. Been having a lot of fun cutting down 70's calculators for their bubble strips and circuit cards. Texas Instruments have the best strips hands down and you can get them on ebay all day for >$10. I just use dremel cutoff wheel, sanding wheel, polishing wheel:

 

[Brothervader]

Just finished off my MR hilt with a little vintage part. I had to sand, and grind down the exterior of the socket like crazy to get it to fit in my hilt.

Loving the results!