Model Master metalizer paints

[DL 44 Blaster]

Are there any specific instructions short of airbrushing on and buffing with a soft cloth I should be aware of?

Can these paints be used as a base color if built up over 2-3 coats ?

Do you HAVE to seal metalizer paints?

I'm planning an aircraft model in aluminum/silver finish and want to use the metalizer paint rather than just plain old Testors silver for a change.

Steve

 

[Too Much Garlic]

As far as I'm aware, you cannot buff that type of paint with a cloth... and sealing it with clearcoat will lose the metallic effect.

 

[Lord Abaddon]

Few things:

1) Be careful what you put the paint on. I've found some plastics (the kind that are more rubbery) will not give a good adhesion and the paint will always remain tacky.

2) You can't buff that paint, once it's on, it's on however it looks. But...

3) ...if you spray a matte or other protectant over it then it will turn a dull metallic color of whatever it is.

4) Painting over them is a really bad idea (at least in my experience). Very few paints will hold over the metallic styles and if you coat it (see above) and then paint over it it might work, but you might not get the colors you want.

For the aircraft aluminum it's a fantastic color and should look okay (I used it for some Manga type craft years ago). But be sure you do a very light coat, don't over spray, and definitely be sure to let it dry a long time. Multiple coats, if the first doesn't cover well, is definitely better and again be sure they are thin coats.

Just IMO anyway.

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

Sweet.. Thanks for the tips guys :thumbsup I JUST finished my Falcons landing gear paintjob and will be starting my P-51D Hasegawa tomorrow YAY.

Steve

 

[Aegis159]

<div class='quotetop'>(Lord Abaddon @ Oct 8 2006, 03:30 PM) [snapback]1334305[/snapback]</div>

Few things:

1) Be careful what you put the paint on. I've found some plastics (the kind that are more rubbery) will not give a good adhesion and the paint will always remain tacky.

2) You can't buff that paint, once it's on, it's on however it looks. But...

3) ...if you spray a matte or other protectant over it then it will turn a dull metallic color of whatever it is.

4) Painting over them is a really bad idea (at least in my experience). Very few paints will hold over the metallic styles and if you coat it (see above) and then paint over it it might work, but you might not get the colors you want.

For the aircraft aluminum it's a fantastic color and should look okay (I used it for some Manga type craft years ago). But be sure you do a very light coat, don't over spray, and definitely be sure to let it dry a long time. Multiple coats, if the first doesn't cover well, is definitely better and again be sure they are thin coats.

Just IMO anyway.
[/b]

Um this is not entirely true guys.

There are TWO types of Model Master metalizer paints- Non-Buffing AND Buffing. They are clearly marked on the bottles at to which is which. I use a very soft cotton cloth to buff the finish to a a very nice shine if needed.

DO NOT touch the unprotected MM metalizer if you can help it, otherwise you'll leave a mark and will have to repaint.

Model Master makes an overcoat specifically designed for their metalizer paints that keeps the shine at whatever level you buff it to- or don't buff it to for that matter. the trick there is light coats like any other airbrushing work.

It is true that it is more caustic so test where you want to spray it first.

Once they are overcoated you can paint over them, although I've never painted over them with anything other than acrylics so I can't say how they'd react to enamels... test away.

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

Sounds great...thanks for the added tips. My bottles did say buffing so I was going to give it a shot on a scrap peice. I think I'll head back to the store and get the sealer from MM since I'll want to be able to handle the airplane.....I did some prep work on the fuselage tonight....it's gonna be sweet.

I love WWII aircraft in the larger scales. I'd love to display a bomber with my P51, but I think the wife might take issue with a 1/32 scale bomber hanging from the ceiling :lol

I'll be sure and post pics when the time comes

Steve

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Aegis159, cool info. Didn't know that, thanks. :thumbsup

 

[WinstonWolf359]

I love the buffing metallizer paints, and I think they are very easy to work with. The metallizer sealer works just like it's supposed to, with no loss of the look you just achieved with the paint. You DO have to seal it, though, or else the paint never really feels cured.

My new favorite technique for gun replicas is to paint the gun with gunmetal and seal it with several coats of the metallizer sealer. Then apply two thin coats of BBQ black. After buffing the BBQ black you get a nice worn bluing effect because you usually buff through the BBQ black on some of the edges showing the gunmetal underneath.

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

Here's a stupid question :$ What kind of cloth do you use to buff? ie. cotton t-shirt type material or a bath towel type...paper towel.?.?...

I'm finally getting ready to go back to the hobby store after I type this to get the sealer since I didn't last week when I bought the paints. So I'll be starting my plane model this week The potential for these paints have me looking at all my DL-44's and contemplating re-paints of them :love

Steve

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

OK....I just got back from the store and he didn't have the "Metalizer Sealer" So...I improvised. Beings that the Metalizer paints are lacquer I bought the Testors "Gloss Cote" and "Dull Cote" since they both say on the spray can that they are lacquer.

I don't want any paint reaction to being sealed so I thought that this would be the best choice since they have the same base medium...lacquer.

I also bought a can of Model Master "Enamel High Gloss" clearcoat. While being a different medium, I might try this on a scrap peice to see if there is a reaction between the lacquer of the metalizer paint and the enamel of the clearcoat when applied on top.

Any last minute tips or thoughts on my choices????

I really wish he had the 1/2oz. "Metalizer sealer" , but if you guys know that it is just the same medium intended for airbrush rather than spray can, let me know as the hobby store had buffing metalizer paints in spray can as well, so I should be OK with my clearcoat/sealer choice.

Ahh the life and struggles of us model builders :lol


Thanks for all your help so far guys... :thumbsup

Steve

 

[Lord Abaddon]

Aegis...buffing? I'll be darn. I actually have never seen the buffing ones but then I don't use metalizers as much as I use to. I'll have to look out for them as I have a couple new projects I was going to start over winter.

Thanks.

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

<div class='quotetop'>(Lord Abaddon @ Oct 14 2006, 03:48 PM) [snapback]1338165[/snapback]</div>

Aegis...buffing? I'll be darn. I actually have never seen the buffing ones but then I don't use metalizers as much as I use to. I'll have to look out for them as I have a couple new projects I was going to start over winter.

Thanks.
[/b]

There are a whole host of colors and come in buffing and non-buffing versions....I can't wait to try them out as I picked up 6 colors.

 

[juno]

What is this BBQ black you speak of?

 

[Mr_Creepy]

I've seen it at ACE, Home Depot/Lowe's & Wal-Mart--runs $5-7 for the spray can.

http://krylon.com/main/product_template.cf...product_details

 

[Davy Jones]

I've had a bit of experiance with Model Masters' metalizer. It seems to buff up nicely if you catch it at the right time...

This is the Aluminum finish on an extremly rough surface with no seal.

Its not mirror-like, but it does look like aluminum. :thumbsup