MK50 IRON MAN BATTLE DAMAGED ENDGAME TRAILER HELMET

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iamshazam

Member
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I figured it was about time I post a build after being a long time member and silent builder...I am currently working on a 3D print / build of the MK50 battle damaged helmet from the Avengers Endgame trailer. I'll be posting update pics and such here as I go and will provide the build video links once they are ready.

The plan is to complete the build in time for the movie release. I'm aiming to build the helmet as accurately I am able to. I'll be learning to work with my new airbrush set along the way (had always used rattle cans and brushes in the past - and I will probably SCREAM out pleading for some guidance once I get there) and finish the piece with lights and sound (I've mapped out the LED sequence and will include more info about that later on).

I looked at the models on Thingiverse by DamaskProps and MyMiniFactory by T-E-C, but neither really worked for me (I mean no disrespect, they are great models and show great work and talent). I wanted to be able to separate the parts differently and it would've been too difficult to separate the parts in those models. I decided to go with Do3D's model (model link), but made some alterations to make it a little more screen accurate - don't get me wrong, the model is great as is!!

I'm including a few model comparison shots for anyone that has been considering this build and these models along with the final adjusted model that I am working from...

MK50 Model Comps Front View.png MK50 Model Comps Back View.png MK50 Model Comps 3.png CHWcosplay:Do3D MK50 Battle Damaged Endgame Helmet Adjusted Model.png
 

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iamshazam

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I forgot to mention that I will be primarily printing this on the Prusa MK3 and using Slic3r (recently switched from Simply3D)...

Here is the slice of the main helmet, I originally had it sliced into 3 parts which had a relatively decent print time and had started printing the parts (before making the adjustments to the model - I was too excited to start!), but then changed my mind and re-sliced it after making the adjustments to reduce the final amount of parts needing to be assembled.

Sliced this way, at 0.1mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle, the total print time for just this part is 60 hours. This is my longest single run printed part!! In the past I would have sliced the model based on details and for and printed the parts with less on my Prusa MK2 which has a 0.6mm nozzle on it currently and set the layer height to around 0.3mm or 0.25mm, but I am trying to move away from that process for smaller builds like this.

Would have been great if the print didn't fail 30 hours in!!! There was a single support post in the back right that I had a feeling might fail, but rolled the dice thinking if it did it wouldn't jeopardize the entire print...but I was wrong. The air-printed material after it failed started to catch the support structure near it and began lifting the entire section off the bed when it caught the extruder.

MK50 HELMET MAIN FRONT SLICE.png

MK50 FRONT MAIN PRINT FAIL.png

MK50 FRONT MAIN PRINT FAIL CANCEL.png
 

iamshazam

Member
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Thanks GEEK1138

I sliced the inner parts of the faceplate in half to print on each side, it was a bad idea - the supports are way too much of a nightmare to deal with in some areas due to the orientation. I made a new gcode file with it laying flat and I've dropped the layer height to 0.05mm. This will be the first time that I am printing at that level, but the details of the part are worth a second 60hr print!!

I am also printing on all of the remaining parts strictly from the SD card and not taking another chance with Octoprint, not until I can correct whatever the issue is that caused it to crash before.

inner Parts on Side Printing.jpg Half of Inner Part Printed.jpg
 

iamshazam

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The Octoprint issue...50 hours in to the 53 hour print of the front sliced part of the helmet the server crashed and froze!! I printed the remaining chin part, glued it on and will only print from the SD card moving forward with this print.

Octo crash during front helmet print.jpg Repaired Front Helmet Chin.jpg Repaired Front Helmet Chin 2.jpg
 

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iamshazam

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Evidently I didn't learn my lesson, but in all fairness I thought that the supports were low enough to be able to get away with a single support beam without it failing...wrong!! And there was no sign of a problem just a few hours prior.

27hrs in to a 65hr print -- FAILED SUPPORT

INNER PART 41HRS LEFT.jpg INNER PART 38HRS LEFT.jpg INNER PART FAIL.jpg
 

iamshazam

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I’m glad you’re still pushing through this project even after all your troubles! Dit give up! This build is looking very very promising
Thanks! This is nothing! I had a printer fail so bad that it wrecked the extruder carriage 1 week before Comic Con and almost derailed my build...I was finishing the paint work less than 24hrs out - I was really scared/pissed that I could be the guy that smells like fresh paint (I didn't, cause it was acrylic airbrush mostly and dried fast). I was Star Lord / Deadpool (cheesy mask) mashup.
 

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iamshazam

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After 75 hours and 55 minutes the inner part is DONE!! There was one slight failure, but it's on the side under the faceplate so it won't be very noticeable, but I will still probably fix it regardless. Let the sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding, drinking, sanding, drinking, filling, drinking, drinking, sanding, drinking, remembering what I was working on...commence!!
 

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The14thDr

Sr Member
This is looking GREAT!! The level of detail in this is mind-blowing. I'm insanely jealous of members who have access to a 3D printer and I can't wait to see how the rest turns out! :)
 

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iamshazam

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This is looking GREAT!! The level of detail in this is mind-blowing. I'm insanely jealous of members who have access to a 3D printer and I can't wait to see how the rest turns out! :)
Not only did my whole way of building and creating change after I got my first 3D printer, my entire workshop has been elevated to a whole new level and I know I am no where near done working on the room - it really pushed me to step up my game (well gave me more of a reason to create a better functioning work/man cave - my girlfriend calls my printers my "other girls").
 

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iamshazam

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I've been researching paint colors and processes (and techniques as airbrushing is still new to me), the suit definitely has a unique color to it compared to previous ones. I even spoke with the original artistic designer about the color scheme for the suit. I've narrowed the options down to 2 possible colors and I think I will test several application methods.

Paint Option 1: Alclad II ruby red - I am going to test several base coat options other than their bright candy base. I don't think that their candy red is the right tone of red, but I may test it as well with different base coats under it to see how it comes out.

Paint Option 2: Firemist - a automotive paint that I will decant and airbrush over a few different base coats as well

Any thoughts, tips or suggestions?


IMG_1340.jpg 1RUBY-RED.jpg 118019d1194915683-thulite-red-storm-red-firemist-red-amber-red-mb-203.jpg

1RED-A.jpg
 

Jediguy

Well-Known Member
I just ordered a 3d printed kit and am following your thread. I was also wondering about the paint colours
 

iamshazam

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Decided to see what I could do with what I already had in the workshop before ordering new colors. All WIP still and I have a few more to go that the primer is still curing on. C87923D7-F3D7-499F-B387-70CC18146FBF.jpeg
 

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