MK38 Igor build (04/29> Painting and detailing)

Guys, both.
The suit is both large and hard to carry, even for weighing 25 pounds or so.

**edited to note**
I refunded the money on this original commission build, and my guy has been more than a gentleman about the situation. I did not want to selling and shipping this for the full value unless I was sure he would be satisfied; you can't inexpensively ship a 3 foot cube across the country for modifications. :)





 
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I'm sure someone, somewhere will buy it. If, for nothing else, to put into their prop room. It's a shame you went through all this trouble for it to get scrapped.


-The Truth is Out There-
 
No no, nothing like that, it won't be scrapped. It'll get figured out.

Completely off-topic, but pretty jealous of where you live right now. I grew up in Destin, FL :thumbsup I miss the gulf, not the people so much sometimes lol, but definitely miss the gulf.
 

an IM suit that was seen for 2 seconds?)

Whats wrong with that - Its Original - No one else has an Igor (that we know of) and I think its better to have 1 of 1 igors that 1 of 2700 mark 7s or 6s, ya now :D
heck im mbuilding a suit that isn't seen for more than one second... in fact you can only see half of it on the screen lol
 
Whats wrong with that - Its Original - No one else has an Igor (that we know of) and I think its better to have 1 of 1 igors that 1 of 2700 mark 7s or 6s, ya now :D
heck im mbuilding a suit that isn't seen for more than one second... in fact you can only see half of it on the screen lol

OH, I know. :) I actually prefer making the off-model suits. Then again, when you've built a dozen of the regular suits, ANYTHING NEW IS GOOD :D They're a lot more work for me, but you nailed it on the head with the 2700 MK 6 statement :lol
 
.... And off to Evilbay it goes.... :( (sorry no link allowed). SOOOOO glad I didn't build to 9 feet. :lol
 
Had somebody asking what size the MK38 was really supposed to be (per the movie), and then how Tony was supposed to fit in it. These are just my answers, so take them with a grain of salt:

The Sideshow 1/6 MK38 stands at a height that would make a full size Igor 101.5 inches tall, or 258cm. So he'd be a little over 8 1/2 feet tall at 1:1 scale, with an arm span approaching 9 feet. I thought he was actually slightly taller, but whatever. Sideshow has been pretty good with stuff like this before, so I'll buy that he's 8 1/2 feet tall.

As for Stark wearing the suit, I wrote that idea off a while ago, at least if it were to be worn in the traditional sense. The overall layout is awkward, especially with the placement of the head and neck at such a pronounced angle off the top of the torso, and the extreme length of the limbs. Not saying it couldn't be done, just saying I wouldn't want to do it.
In the end, no one really needs to wear him anyways; the 'House Party Protocol' of Iron Man 3 shows that the suits don't need a person in them to be active. J.A.R.V.I.S. can operate each suit independently as a drone, so Igor can literally do his own thing without a human at the wheel.

 
Out of curiosity. .. what did this fetch?

I don't even like thinking about it, I took a huge hit. Went to somebody local for $500, it had more than that in electronics but I wasn't willing to part it out. Oh well.
 
laellee, I have another question. :facepalm

In a post on this thread, you said you use the caulk, and then the heat gun on your foam. Does the heat affect the caulking?

Also you have said your glue to water ratio for Elmer's is 10:1, 8:1, and 4:1 in different threads and posts. :confused
 
:lol I did? Awesome.

First off, the heat gun won't affect the caulk at all. You'll be popping seams and melting foam before that caulk does anything bad.

As for the PVA thinning. I started watering it down quite a bit in the beginning; some people were even recommending 1:1, and I tried that once. HORRIBLE. So I went with about 4:1 for a while, and it worked OK, but I had to watch it CONSTANTLY to remove runs and drips; if you let them dry they are a hassle to remove. After trying a few kinds of glue, I settled on the Elmers and added barely any water at all (10:1), just enough so that it would soak into my paint brush a little easier. My assumption was that this would also help it flow out on the surface better, and give me an overall better finish.
PVA will still give you drips and runs that you want to wipe away no matter what, but in the end I completely gave up on watering it down at all. I just use straight PVA now, and then plastidip over the top. I brush on the PVA as thin as I possibly can, and then check it a couple of times in the first hour to wipe drips or runs away. If it's a piece that needs to be flexible (like a glove strap), I completely bypass the PVA application and just load on the Plastidip.
 
Thanks! :)

You still use the Elmer's Glue-All kind, right? This is probably a dumb question, but what is a glove strap?
 
Yup, same glue, available all over the place.

I build my foam gloves over a kind of neoprene glove base that they are glued to, but the actual palm has to have a velcro or elastic section at the side so your hand can slip into the glove without tearing the foam. If I use velcro, I make a flap (or strap) of foam that velcros across this opening once the opening once the glove is on. That flap usually gets flexed around a bent a lot, so if it had pva sealant it would likely crack and look bad. Instead, I just plastidip those areas and paint. YOu can see an example of the flap in the upper right pic here:

 
Thank you. :p

I can't see the pic because it's blocked, so can you either post it using the image function, or pm it to me. Or I can wait till later. :rolleyes
 
Laellee, do you think the heat gun is necessary for this method of sealing foam?

I applied that caulk I mentioned in JFcustom's thread to my suit. It's still curing, and I'm not sure how long I need to wait before using the heat gun on it, or applying straight Elmer's glue. On the package, it says to wait 40 minutes before painting it, and 24 hours before exposing it to water.

4some.JPG
 
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