Metallic powders . .how???

Rhett J Martin

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've just picked up some metallic powders for an old project, and am looking to get some parts to look nice and metallic, maybe even polishable (word?).

I've done two small tests, and have had mixed (read, bad) results.

So here's the questions . . .

1) How do you get the powder to 'stick' to the sides/walls of the mold?

2) Is there a base color for the resin that will make the powder color 'pop'?

3) Are all powders able to be polished, and if so, are the able to be sealed?

Any suggestions are welcome. Tech bulletins only take you so far!:unsure Thanks!
 
Hi Hotshot,

I find the best way as follows (and it makes a pot of powder go a loooong way!:

Don't wax or lubricate the mold.

Tip some powder into the dry mold and swish your mold round until you have a coating on the rubber. There should be no reason why the powder doesn't stick.

Tip out the loose excess and give the mold a good thump to dislodge the rest of the loose-ish powder - i.e. just leaving a thin coverage.

Pay special attention to small areas of the mold that could get clogged with powder - resin will not penetrate it far enough and your cast will be faulty! i.e noses on faces, etc.

Choose a pigment for your resin that matches the colour of the recessed metal (i.e - black or dark brown for bronze powder).

Pour in your pigmented resin making sure that you hit a spot in the mold that is either a recess in the cast, or better still, a casting plug that will get sanded or cut off.

Leave to set.

When de-molding your cast will be really dull.

First go in lightly with wire-wool.

You'll notice shine coming through. Don't attack it heavily or else you'll rub through the powder to the resin. (The resin was coloured for just this reason)

You can wash the cast over with a watered down paint for a weathered effect and seal with a varnish - we use satin, matt and gloss depending upon the shine required.

Hope that helps!

Draven
 
You're welcome.

Just try it out on something small and insignificant first as a tester.

There are other ways, but that's just the way we do it...

Other ways such as mixing a batch of resin using metal powder as the filler (the ratio is normally about 60% metal to resin, but the supplier will tell you best) and doing a slush (hollow) casting in that resin, then fillit up with normal resin.

This would give a deeper layer to wire-wool and sand but would use more powder.

Or if you're rich - mix the whole lot of resin/metal in one pour!

Draven
 
all good tips from draven.

just to add to it. one of the reasons that you may find that your powder doesnt stick to the mold if it the metal grain it to coarse or heavy. I had this problem with brass so i experimented and found that a light coat of spray mount in the mold with give the mold a "tack" for the powder to stick to.
 
Ahh . .very nice tip! I'll be doing some hardcore experimentation tonight, as I had three solid pulls rightin a row,and they all polished up nicely.

This should be fun!

Thanks again guys!
 
:lol That's funny! This IS gonna be for that Fabrege Egg I want to build from Ocean's 12.

I just don't think spraypaint will do the job on that one.
After seeing that great Indy idol that was one with gold powder, my interest was peaked!!

SmoothOn reaaaalllly needs to get tech bullitens up for those :rolleyes
 
:lol That's funny! This IS gonna be for that Fabrege Egg I want to build from Ocean's 12.

I just don't think spraypaint will do the job on that one.
After seeing that great Indy idol that was one with gold powder, my interest was peaked!!

SmoothOn reaaaalllly needs to get tech bullitens up for those :rolleyes

Are you serious? Did you click the link? It is methods for casting with metallic powders. Isn't that what you were asking about?

I guess I just missed what you were asking for.
 
Here is how I do my stuff

If it is something small
1. I power the mold with the metal
2. Remove extra
3. Mix the powder with the resin.

If something big, like a helmet
1. I DO NOT power the mold. I find that the resin does not stick to the side of the mold and all runs to the bottom.
2. Mix the powder with the resin.


Depending on if I am going to paint the item, I will use just enough power to tint the resin. If I want it to shin like metal, I use about 120% power to resin.
 
Are you serious? Did you click the link? It is methods for casting with metallic powders. Isn't that what you were asking about?

I guess I just missed what you were asking for.

Yea, I remeber reading that, but I always find the long paragraphs in their techs much more helpful.

Either way, thanks for the link, cause you help one, and others will get to see it too!

I pm'd you too JM.
 
Here is how I do my stuff

If it is something small
1. I power the mold with the metal
2. Remove extra
3. Mix the powder with the resin.

If something big, like a helmet
1. I DO NOT power the mold. I find that the resin does not stick to the side of the mold and all runs to the bottom.
2. Mix the powder with the resin.


Depending on if I am going to paint the item, I will use just enough power to tint the resin. If I want it to shin like metal, I use about 120% power to resin.

Eek, I can't imagine doing a helmet. :confused

I just want to do small little things for the egg.

I may try it with the Barbossa flintlock and maybe some Ghostbuster stuff too. Either way, I'm betting this will take practice.
 
all good tips from draven.

just to add to it. one of the reasons that you may find that your powder doesnt stick to the mold if it the metal grain it to coarse or heavy. I had this problem with brass so i experimented and found that a light coat of spray mount in the mold with give the mold a "tack" for the powder to stick to.


Spray mount? I will have to try that. I have noticed that it comes to point were the metallic dust can't stick to the mold's walls anymore, after doing a few good number of castings. I figured the mold is wearing out and lossing whatever made the metallic dust stick to it, at the beginning.
 
Maybe cook the mold in the oven a bit, get those lubricants going again. I've had to do it with a recent mold, and it works wonders. Smells to high hell though!
 
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