Men in Black 1 Neuralyzer build

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Zombie Killer

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm wanting to buld this MIB Neuralyzer kit and wondering if anyone knows anything about its origins? Theres a youtube video of this same type and it mentions it being fan made and available somewhere around 2000-2002. Im hoping someone here might recognize it.


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PhuketAussie

Active Member
Hi there, that's an interesting project. I decided to do a quick search on the internet and came up with a bunch of results. I'm not sure about the specific kit that you are referring to, but I did find this one: Machined Aluminum Neuralyzer Replica Kit Men in Black | #536265818
It seems to be a close match, but I'm not sure if it is still available. There is however an interesting alternative, there are 3D printed kits for this and other projects here: Machined Aluminum Neuralyzer Replica Kit Men in Black | #536265818

I also noticed that someone is offering this kit pre-printed from Amazon: Amazon.com: MIB Neuralizer - Men in Black Weapon Replica Standard Issue Neuralyzer Flash Forget 3D-Printed Kit (Requires Assembly): Handmade

Hope that helps.

I think I'm going to do a MIB weapons wall in the not-too-distant future now, thanks for asking this question!
 

Zombie Killer

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks, the first link is the bigger version with LED display like SDStudios made years back. The one i have is the smaller version similar to the MIB2 type but with red lights.
 

IFA

Sr Member
Richard Coyle (Racprops) maybe ????........but I think he was making replicas from MIB 1 Neuralyzer !!!
 

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Zombie Killer

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
If possible please document your build thread here. I would love to see how it goes and have a few more of these kits
somewhere in my garage mess.
I will definitely document the build. If you end up finding the kits could you please post a picture of the MAF button. Its the one thing missing from this kit and i would like to see what it looks like so i can try to make it..
Thank you!
 

The Dude

Sr Member
I have one finished version and one still in kit form that I got from Nicksdad. (The electronics I have is for lights only) I probably built 10-15 of them. (Does that sound about right, Nicksdad?) I fashioned a MAF switch that I need to redo since I am not happy with my first attempt. It appears you are missing the two types of set screws, unless you have them and they are not pictured?

I can post my finished one if you like? Probably the hardest part of the build is polishing the tubes. The only other challenge is the tapping and screwing that needs to be done to put the parts together and the placement of the two screws that stop the extension process so that the top portion does fly out of the buttom tube.

I also own the Coyle one and have an MR MIB2 version.
 
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Zombie Killer

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks for the info! I wont be using any set screws for the stop although i do have the ones from the kit.. The original MIB1 didnt have them the MIB2 version did. The MIB has a single flat head screw in the center for a stop. I'll also be replacing the lower black delrin spring guide piece with an aluminum one that has a slightly thicker base and a little bit larger diameter to get rid of some of the wobble and play. Thinking ill have to shorten the interior portion of the bottom cap a little too to be able to make the delrin/aluminum piece thick enough to get the screw stop low like on the original. Here are some pics from Ricks page and the latest video. You can see the stop in the center and no set screws. Also in the last pic you can see there wasn't a setscrew on the opening lever, it looks like a silver nail as you can see the head on one side. I also think im going to stick the top cap and base cap on my lathe and get rid of the pointyness to them. I can never seem to just build something. Always got to dick around and modify stuff....lol For the MAF button i will probably just make something on the mill. I need to practice on it anyways and thats a nice small project.




RCP%20PROPS%20098.jpg

Neuralyzer2.jpg

Neuralyzer4.jpg

Neuralyzer1.jpg
 

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The Dude

Sr Member
Wow.....your attention to detail is awesome. I never knew of the single flat head screw in the center for a stop or the fastener used on the release lever. Since I have one kit left I can explore that and replicate accordingly. As far as rounding out the top and bottom portions, that is interesting. On my kit, it is rounder, not as sharp as your kit. So that is not an issue for me. I think. I need to dig out my finished one and kit, which are in storage, to compare to the awesome pics you shared.
 

Zombie Killer

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I just noticed zooming in on the last photo it looks like the release lever may actually have a flat head screw also. I need to dig through my camera parts and see if i can find something to use. ALthough on the second to last photo i dont see the slot on the screw/nail. Another thing i just noticed is on the upper section opposite the side with the release lever you can see the little switch that turns it on. Ill need to find one of those too.
 

Zombie Killer

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
A little bit done. I machined the end caps to get rid of the points and did a little polishing. I will re sand and re polish with buffing wheels when all the fitting is done. I made the lower guide in aluminum and it really helped with the wobble. I ended up machining the lower delrin piece it replaced to fit the top cap since there isnt anything to close up the hole. I also trimmed up the top caps corrugated ring and filed some lips on the ends to hold the clear lens. Clear lens is trimmed too. I ended up just sticking it into the aluminum ring and slicing the excess with a razor. Oh and i trimmed the front panel ends to fit into the slots in the top cap and lower guide.
I was worried about the inner section being able to spin and both not line up for the stop when it springs open as well as lining up with the lever when closed. I ended up putting a guide rod in the cap and then brass tube in the top section for the guide to slide into. I didnt want the rod just sliding in and out of the electronics area messing stuff up. The brass will be secured to the upper body with epoxy. I may put a heatshrink tube over it so it doesnt do any shorting on the electronics board then epoxy it. Its a real tight fit and the guide rod in the bottom cap is so tight the side of the rod is sticking out of thecap side wall. Ill need to sand it down so it doenst interfere with the spring. Right now i need to get some 2-56 nuts so i can attached the electronics board to the front panels and dial wheels and i need to find a flat head screw for the stop. I also need to cut a clearence slot in the top delrin so the pc board can fit up into it for the flash but all that needs to wait for the 2-56 nuts. Until then i cant do anymore..........back to the pulsars....

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ZahcStarKiller

Active Member
I’ve read through this thread about 100 times in the last couple of days taking mental notes because I too have wanted a neuralyzer for a long time, and ended up being able to snag one (the same kit you have) and an unobtainium cricket from nicksdad, thanks again!

I plan to start building mine soon after it gets here, but I might copy your anti-rotation kit and aluminum spring guide first. If you feel like machining a second one identical to the one you made, I’d pay you for it. I also sent you a PM, hoping to share pointers back and forth as these things gets built.

Anyhoo, I found the screen used MIB II neuralyzer on the prop store, and there are some great detailed pics that show even more set screws and the MAF button. Here’s the link, I hope it helps!

 
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Wonder Knight

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Great job :D , I can't wait to see it finished. This kit looks really cool. On the other hand I do not understand well, are the red circles transparent to let the lighting pass? They seem very opaque. And another silly question, what does M A F mean:lol:?
 

ZahcStarKiller

Active Member
The red disks do look opaque, but they also are slightly translucent, and light is able to pass through.

MAF means “Male, Alien, or Female”.
 

Wonder Knight

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thank you for your answer, and ok for MAF, I wouldn't have thought about that :unsure: ... Especially they neuralyze mixed groups all the time ;), unless it is for the one who holds the neuralyzer. But if we need to separate male and female, I think the Alien category is a bit reductive :lol: lol . But sorry, I digress, but I like to understand props. In any case, I'm looking forward to see the rest :)
 

MercedesSLR

Active Member
I wish someone would sell me a kit to make one since the ready-made ones have alluded me for years now. No matter how close I get to one it slips through my hands.
 

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