Mauser Conversion Prep?

batninja

Well-Known Member
I'm just now getting around to converting a Denix mauser, and plan on getting the kit sometime this month.

Although I like the finish on the blaster right now, is it necessary to strip/repaint the whole thing prior to adding the aftermarket stuff? For those with screen-accurate blasters, what's the general consensus?
 

wuher da brewer

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Whatever you deem necessary is what you do.

At the very least, make sure the adjustment knob for the sight is on the right.

Then you should consider removing the logo from the left side. I do that in relatively little time with a Dremel and polishing wheel.

The next most satisfying step is to file off the nub under the hammer. Make sure it's seated well before grinding it off. I tap it with a hammer.

The Denix usually has a lot of metal pitting on the sides especially on the magazine area of the receiver. With the polishing stone, it's not hard to improve on this. You can polish out most of it with time. I have seen pitting so bad I had to do some filling.

Another thing I like to do before refinishing is flush the pins. The ones on the lower receiver can be flushed with a dremel. The one in the groove can be fushed flat with a cutting wheel.

If you've gone that far, the pièce de résistance, is to fit the Denix with wood grips. Wakal has a great tutorial.

If you do make it to the prop party, I'd be happy to show you my Denix conversions.
 

Corellianexports

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Don't forget to wash the Denix in warm, soapy water. The grease really makes a mess.

If you decide to paint it, clean it off with denatured alcohol. That will help the paint to adhere to the metal. Same deal with the parts.

Good luck.
 

Boba Debt

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
WOW, that is from moy old website, I guess they can find the files or they would have deleted them by now.

If you use these you may want to save them to disk in case GSI decides to clean house.





Originally posted by Darth Lars@Feb 9 2006, 10:18 PM
BobaDept has made a few tutorials also.
[snapback]1180187[/snapback]​
 

TOKI

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The only thing I would double check in BD's tutorial (nice blast from the past) is the removal of the safety lever.

I use Goo Gone or a citrus cleaner to degrease the Denix, while giving it a good rub down with a scotch brite pad. And be sure to clean up any oxidation after the denix has dried from being washed. Paint won't stick otherwise. And definately prime it.

Arthur
 

batninja

Well-Known Member
What kind of paint would be best for this? Satin or Flat? The MR version looks flat, but I've seen others that were anywhere from gloss on down.

Is there a particular brand that's recommended?
 

Gatekeeper

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Originally posted by batninja+Mar 5 2006, 04:31 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(batninja @ Mar 5 2006, 04:31 AM)</div>
What kind of paint would be best for this?  Satin or Flat? The MR version looks flat, but I've seen others that were anywhere from gloss on down.

Is there a particular brand that's recommended?
[snapback]1198908[/snapback]​
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I painted one of my Denixes with PlastiKote flat black, and the result was good. It looked almost parkerized.
I for one opt for a flat black finish. Gloss finish tends to make the Denixes a bit plastick-y, IMO.
<!--QuoteBegin-Boba Debt
@Feb 10 2006, 02:08 AM
WOW, that is from moy old website, I guess they can find the files or they would have deleted them by now.

If you use these you may want to save them to disk in case GSI decides to clean house.
[snapback]1180277[/snapback]​
Can't reach the site... are these still up?
 

TOKI

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Definately stay away from a gloss finish, it just never looks right.

A good quality matte finish black primer, with a good "rubbing down" with a old t-shirt gives a pretty good look. Just make sure to give the primer (or paint) a few days to dry before the rub down. NEVER rush a paint job. It WILL ruin it.

Arthur
 

Corellianexports

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Satin Black is good for all the ANH and ESB blasters.

Flat black is what they used on all the ROTJ blasters.

You can find Satin Black at Walmart. I've rarely seen it at Home Depot or ACE Hardware.

Also, if you do use Satin Black, be sure and spray the blaster with flat black, first. That will give the final coat some thing to adhere to. Usually any paint, other than flat has a tendency to run when sprayed on metalic surfaces.
 

tk421mv7

Well-Known Member
I love that tutorial. Well-written and extremely helpful. I always refer to it, particularly the "resist the urge to scream and throw tools" part. I usually want to do that...
 

Keith

Sr Member
You will find a few pins that pass through the body of the gun which are holding parts in place. I tap these part way in, so they are sticking out on one side, then file the ends thats sticking out down so the pins are a bit shorter.
Then tap them back in again and you now have the pins in place, but have an indent at each end of the pin so you can fill them in. Sand the filler smooth and you would never know the pins were there.

I fit, then remove the conversion kit before i paint the gun. The paint i used for mine was hycote satin black from an aerosol.

Keith.
 

batninja

Well-Known Member
For cleaning the parts, is there a difference between 'de-natured' alcohol and the common rubbing alcohol?

Is so, where would one find the de-natured stuff?
 
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