Masking small intricate areas for painting?

[Laspector]

Need some advice. I am currently working on modifying a TIE Bomber. I'm taping off areas for spray painting, but I can't quite figure out how to mask off some of the intricate areas. See the attached picture. The red arrows point to the areas I am needing to mask off for painting. These are some pretty squirrelly shaped little greeblies. I'm pretty sure I'm not going to be able to tape these off and I can't figure out how to remove them. I was thinking of getting some liquid frisket, but the ones I am finding on Amazon are saying they do not stick to plastic. Not only are these pieces plastic, they are made out of that soft, rubbery plastic that never seems to hold paint. So, I want to leave them the original color, but I've got to cover them in order to paint the grey of the rest of the ship.

Any ideas?

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Liquid masking fluid from Humbrol should do the trick.

 

[TazMan2000]

There are several companies that make a liquid paintable mask. Qualities differ. Check your LHS.

TazMan2000

 

[Laspector]

I don't have a local hobby store. Can you give me a link to where I might get some?

 

[Analyzer]

I use Micro-Mask. It is water based, so the water in acrylic paints can theoretically dissolve it, but I have never had an issue using Tamiya or Vallejo paints thinned with their airbrush thinner

I glob it on very thick, often doing a couple of coats to be safe. Peels right off later with very little issue unless I put it on too thin. I got mine at Hobby Lobby, but...

Amazon.com: Micro Mask, 1 oz: Gateway

Amazon.com: Micro Mask, 1 oz: Gateway

www.amazon.com

 

[Laspector]

Ok, thanks. I ordered it. We'll see how it goes. I appreciate it.

 

[kamandi]

The liquid latex masking is almost identical to the stuff they sell at Halloween for cheap makeup, which means the day after you can stock up cheap.

 

[itsgreg]

(Edit, sorry just saw you don't want to paint them at all. I'd just mask them roughly then remove any overspray around the base of them with a scalpel/brush & thinners).

You don't need to mask them as such. You need to think about masking order. Always try to make the last colour you spray the hardest one it would be to mask.
For parts like that paint the surface they're on (I assume you're spraying/airbrushing) then mask the surface around them. If they're not the last thing to be sprayed then they can be blanket masked after that with a piece of tape over the whole greeblie.
You don't need micro tape just ordinary masking tape & a scalpel (cut the tape to smaller strips on a cutting mat, cutting tape on the model can lead to paint peeling when demasking).

 

[basementdweller]

I would use some silly putty or poster tack for this. Mash it on, use an edged tool to get the straights straight and a toothpick to get it out of the recesses when removing it and Bob's your uncle.

 

[Laspector]

Hhhhmm, I do have a lot of poster tack. That's a good idea. I might try that.

 

[g0rb]

I second the silly putty works. It works well, it sticks to most plastics and won't tear paint off the model. It can be re-used quite a bit too.
I think it contains silicone though, so it'll bond to other silicone surfaces (not that I think the soft plastic you are referring to contains silicone).

 

[Jimmer]

I use Micro-Mask. It is water based, so the water in acrylic paints can theoretically dissolve it, but I have never had an issue using Tamiya or Vallejo paints thinned with their airbrush thinner

I glob it on very thick, often doing a couple of coats to be safe. Peels right off later with very little issue unless I put it on too thin. I got mine at Hobby Lobby, but...

Amazon.com: Micro Mask, 1 oz: Gateway

Amazon.com: Micro Mask, 1 oz: Gateway

www.amazon.com

I like micro-mask also (you just can't use it with water based paint obviously).

Silly putty is a great idea.
For flat, straight angles scotch tape does surprisingly well (obviously not for your tie bomb though).