Mask paint - Touch up/protection questions

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avpfan36

New Member
A couple questions about touching up paint on a mask:

1. I plan to purchase some acrylic paint to touch up the lower mandibles on my mask, but what kind of clear coat do I need? and would a place like "Michaels" carry it?

2. On the forehead region of my mask, there's an outline of where the magnet is on the inside which holds the bio in place. The paint is cracking/peeling around that outline, is there anything I can do to repair/stop that?
 

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biofreak

New Member
to do a seemless touch up you would want to use a airbrush.as far as the paints go u want to make tha paint be flexible wen it dries so it wont crack or anything,making more work for you.to do this i used acrylic paint as a toner or pigment and mixed a 50/50 of water and latex and added the paint to make it the color i wanted.didnt require much paint and u dont want to use much either as u want the mixture to be mostely latex so its flexible and adherse well to the mask.mix it to a milk like consistency so its sprayable through a airbrush.so ide say 45%water,45%latex(may have to play with latex/water ratio)and then at most 10%paint.give it a good mix and spray away.

if airbrushing is not a option i would still use the water/latex/paint mixture but use sponges and a variety of paint brushed to dab and stipple the colors and textures back on.make sure the mask is real clean before u paint to allow for maximum adhesion.

to top coat this stuff i used a blend of clear latex and a gloss finish mod podge as it has a certain flexible quality wen cured.thin this down with water as well.careful mixing tho as if u put to much latex in it will curdle.if the lower mandibles are hard(resin,plastic,ect) u will not need latex or mod podge, any clear gloss arisole can will work.

hope this helps!
 

avpfan36

New Member
Airbrushing won't be an option, the spots that need touching up a really small so the little paint brushes I bought to paint up my dread beads a while back will do. This is the kind of paint I'll be buying: http://www.goldenpaints.com//products/colo...g.php?K=0002370 and it will be applied to resin mandibles. I'm still uncertain on what kind/brand of clear coat I should be looking for... I need something that can be applied with a brush if possible, cause I can see anything in can turning into a potential mess.
 

biofreak

New Member
heck no man, can all the way.do it out side or a ventelated area but it will look sooo much better.and itll be done way quicker aswell as u only need maybe two good coats!that paint your getting should work fine!!post some pics of your progress if u can!

good luck!
 

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ptgreek

Active Member
WHOA ..hold on ..im sorry but im gonna have to stop ya. Crystal clear spray on your mask? ..sorry bud, but it will also crack. And Latex mask paint on an already painted and sealed mask. yikes! Latex mask paint base is meant to stick to raw latex ..not latex that has already been painted ..you are going to want a prosaid /paint mix called Pax. Prosaid is a medical adhesive ..it is what is going to allow your paint to bond as well as flex. The initial info was one correct way for painting a raw unsealed mask ( as well as a rubber cement/acrylic/naphtha mix ..it has dangerous fumes ..do it outside and with a respirator) ..but not for the touch up of an already painted mask. As for the sealing ..you are planning on spraying crystal clear on an already painted mask? noooooo! it will mute colors and crack. if you feel the need to seal the paint touch ups ..and with a bush or sponge ..use hardware store bough polyacrylic. it will flex with the paintjob. If you start rattle can spraying you will deal with a mess with overspray as well. Just trying to save you some trouble down the line. Bio freak ..your initial thoughts would work if starting from scratch. The crystal clear is solid on a resin bio ..but not a latex mask. Now ..if you are looking for a quick aerosol spray sealant for a latex mask, my suggestion would be clear plasti-dip spray ...it is a rubberized sealant ..it will have the flex needed to accomplish the job.
 

avpfan36

New Member
If you start rattle can spraying you will deal with a mess with overspray as well. Just trying to save you some trouble down the line. Bio freak ..your initial thoughts would work if starting from scratch. The crystal clear is solid on a resin bio ..but not a latex mask.
The mess is what I'm trying to avoid, so that's why I'm trying to get as many suggestions as possible. The areas that need to be touched up are pretty small, do you reckon that "prosaide" is a must? I want to put a clear coat on the re-touched spots so they don't stick out like a sore thumb, but it sounds like more trouble then it's worth.
 

ptgreek

Active Member
its really not that much trouble. prosaid will allow the acrylic paint to bond ..its almost a flexible primer if you will. Latex will stick to latex just fine as long as the mask is raw ..if already painted, chances are that it will eventually crack or peel. now ..if it is the resin mandible only, you really wont have to worry about prosaid, latex, rubber cement, etc as a component to the paint mix ..simply mix your color and apply. to match the perma-wet or what ever sealer that is already there, simple polyacrylic will work. it will seal and give a sheen to the paint job. Here's another low budge trick ..if there are black spots on the mandible, make another one or two with a sharpie over the desired paint flaw..then seal that with polyacrylic
 

avpfan36

New Member
its really not that much trouble. prosaid will allow the acrylic paint to bond ..its almost a flexible primer if you will. Latex will stick to latex just fine as long as the mask is raw ..if already painted, chances are that it will eventually crack or peel. now ..if it is the resin mandible only, you really wont have to worry about prosaid, latex, rubber cement, etc as a component to the paint mix ..simply mix your color and apply. to match the perma-wet or what ever sealer that is already there, simple polyacrylic will work. it will seal and give a sheen to the paint job. Here's another low budge trick ..if there are black spots on the mandible, make another one or two with a sharpie over the desired paint flaw..then seal that with polyacrylic
George,

There are a few black spots on the mandibles, and I don't mind adding a few more to them. I have regular black acrylic paint I can use for that As for the "polyacrylic", is this the stuff? Link Apparently it comes in a few different sheens, Satin, Semi and Gloss. Which would best match permawet? (assuming that's what's on my mask right now)

Also, there's one spot on my mask where the paint is cracking and almost starting to peel a bit. It's a spot where the bio touches....could I put some of that polyacrylic on there to help keep that paint in tact?
 

ptgreek

Active Member
cool ..if ya think the black will match well..go for that ...and yes ..thats the polyacrylic
 

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ptgreek

Active Member
sure ..as for the polyacrylic on the mask rub ..since im not sure what it was originally sealed with ..and dont know its opacity ,its best to always do a test with anything before you put it on your masterpiece. find a small hidden area ..perhaps under the dreads ..and dab a small area of polyacrylic there ..let it dry ..see how it matches up
 

avpfan36

New Member
One thing that I was thinking of the other day, does that "polycrylic" dry hard? It's meant for wood, so I figure it probably does....the reason I ask is be cause If I were to apply some of it the latex part of the mask where the bio is rubbing and whatnot, would it cause those spots to harden up? I'd like to keep it flexible, but the areas that need touching up are fairly small so it shouldn't be a big deal.
 

ptgreek

Active Member
nope in small coats it is very flexible ..again....try a test on the inside or hidden spot on the mask .bend it ...see how it works for you
 

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