Mark 46 1:1 Bust Display

TKCC71

Well-Known Member
Well, back at it again. I had a Wounded Veteran Organization ask me if I would make them a Iron Man bust for a silent auction. As a combat wounded veteran myself, I couldn't resist. The proceeds from the build, will benefit combat wounded veterans and Gold Star Families (Parents of the fallen) to come to Ohio and participate in weekend of healing and a ton of fun activities. I sent a request to Stan Lee to see if we could get this one signed. (Crossing my fingers). So while Im at it, I figured I would start a new thread on the build as I go.

The bust was created from the Do3D files. Kept everything to scale. I printed this so far with the RoboR1+ (10x9x8 build volume) and the SeeMeCNC Rostock Max V3 (15 inch tall x 11 inch build volume) Im also using Simplify 3D as my slicer. I also will be printing a majority of the parts in Black PETG. More of a personal preference I prefer PETG due to its strength. Concerning the color of filament, I prefer printing in black because when I sand it, its much easier to see uneven surfaces or print lines that could be remaining.

For my first step, I loaded the files in Meshmixer to separate the shells. I found with this particular chest that printing each shell separately reduces the post processing time and support material. The only shell I had to slice was the shoulder strap due to its curved shape and printer orientation to reduce the amount of support structure.

Once all the shells/parts are finished printing, then I sand the outside with a rotary sander to remove any zits and to remove as many print lines as I can. Then I begin joining the parts together. I prefer to wait until everything is printed before putting the parts together to ensure everything will line up properly. I started using masking tape on the outside to line up and hold the parts together, then I use a soldering gun on the inside to join the pieces together between the seems. Once joined, I also use a little hot glue in certain places to ensure the parts stay together. For additional strength once this step is done, I basically have to options to consider. Using multiple layers of epoxy (you could use XTC-3D or Zpoxy) on the inside or fiberglass/poly resin to add a little extra strength. (I'm open to any other suggestions inside strength if anyone has any on this step)

Will post more detailed photos and processing steps as I go along. Also that is a older helmet so I will be making a new/better one for this build.




 
What gold is that on the faceplate? It doesn't look like the one from your previous build. Thanks
 
Dude after this build show us how you wear the armor, I am starting mine in a week

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Really nice well done!

Are there any more details please for the shells separation on Meshmixer? I usually cut the pieces on netfabb to fit my wanhao i3 but this makes post prossecing more tricky.
 
Isnt there chance for part to break if you only solder on the inside ?

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Dont use xtx 3d on the inside just use regular polyester resin with fiberglass or smooth on apoxamite with fiber glass. Xtc 3d is only made to smooth the outside of a 3d print. Yes it is epoxy resin but it doesnt have the same structural property as standard epoxy resin for composite work [emoji1]

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Huang, yes its the same Helmet. (Duplicolor Ford Gold) Just the lighting, I have some bright lights behind me.

AvengerXXX - Yes I owe you a video, sorry been really busy. Will put it on my War Machine Thread soon. I'll try to find some time today.

Paintstar - Separating the shells in Meshmixer is fairly simple. Just go to edit and choose separate shells. Then choose the shell you want to separate. Hit file and then export. However the file you import has to have multiple shells. Some files are one shell. Do3D recently had their chest piece for the Mark 46 as one shell. I contacted them and they re-sent me the older files where they are separate.

tijojo98, I totally agree. thats why I went with fiberglass. Its not to bad if you put enough layers of epoxy in the helmet but it will take quite a few layers and needs to be thick.


So here's my next steps. I fiberglassed the inside with polyester resin and a fiberglass matt. The bondo you see there is to fill in the seams to minimize the poly resin running out the cracks on the outside. Then I sand/cut the extra fiberglass of with the rotorary sander and a dremel.




Now that I finished the fiberglass then I can start working on the exterior. So I put a high build primer filler on to see the defects or print lines.



Then I sand the bust and then use glazing putty to fill in any imperfections that the high build primer may not have covered. I may repeat this process 2 x 3 times until i am satisfied.



The next step is to start cleaning up the detail lines with a small file and other tools before my final coat of primer that I will wetsand with a 220 grit sand paper.
 
A little more progress yesterday. More paint and sanding. This will be the coat for the wet sand. (350 grit) I also use a adhesion promoter for the first wet sand coat.

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A little trick I learned is to add a little soap to the water so the sandpaper goes smoothly across the paint.


After wet sand with the primer, then add the metalcast ground coat.
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If you find any more imperfections then no worries, wet sand the ground coat and paint again.


Finally something I am happy with. Next step will be to tape off the gold and silver areas.

 
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And last but not least. A coat of the Duplicolor RED (Which is basically a 1K red clear coat). I will on the last step however go over this with a good 2K (2 part) Clear coat.



 
Tape removed and a coat of crystal clear. Ready for the gold paint next. Also the unibeam and the unibeam screen was printed via a Formlab 2 printer in clear resin. Its currently curing in a custom UV box.





 
This looks awesome, I would love to get the stl file for the unibeam, I´m making a mk 45 suit on my 3d printer and I hope to get it ready in 3 months or so.
 
Very nice finished product. Just wondering what are you using as the internals to keep the bust in one piece? Is it a pvc stand?
 
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