TKCC71
Well-Known Member
Well, back at it again. I had a Wounded Veteran Organization ask me if I would make them a Iron Man bust for a silent auction. As a combat wounded veteran myself, I couldn't resist. The proceeds from the build, will benefit combat wounded veterans and Gold Star Families (Parents of the fallen) to come to Ohio and participate in weekend of healing and a ton of fun activities. I sent a request to Stan Lee to see if we could get this one signed. (Crossing my fingers). So while Im at it, I figured I would start a new thread on the build as I go.
The bust was created from the Do3D files. Kept everything to scale. I printed this so far with the RoboR1+ (10x9x8 build volume) and the SeeMeCNC Rostock Max V3 (15 inch tall x 11 inch build volume) Im also using Simplify 3D as my slicer. I also will be printing a majority of the parts in Black PETG. More of a personal preference I prefer PETG due to its strength. Concerning the color of filament, I prefer printing in black because when I sand it, its much easier to see uneven surfaces or print lines that could be remaining.
For my first step, I loaded the files in Meshmixer to separate the shells. I found with this particular chest that printing each shell separately reduces the post processing time and support material. The only shell I had to slice was the shoulder strap due to its curved shape and printer orientation to reduce the amount of support structure.
Once all the shells/parts are finished printing, then I sand the outside with a rotary sander to remove any zits and to remove as many print lines as I can. Then I begin joining the parts together. I prefer to wait until everything is printed before putting the parts together to ensure everything will line up properly. I started using masking tape on the outside to line up and hold the parts together, then I use a soldering gun on the inside to join the pieces together between the seems. Once joined, I also use a little hot glue in certain places to ensure the parts stay together. For additional strength once this step is done, I basically have to options to consider. Using multiple layers of epoxy (you could use XTC-3D or Zpoxy) on the inside or fiberglass/poly resin to add a little extra strength. (I'm open to any other suggestions inside strength if anyone has any on this step)
Will post more detailed photos and processing steps as I go along. Also that is a older helmet so I will be making a new/better one for this build.



The bust was created from the Do3D files. Kept everything to scale. I printed this so far with the RoboR1+ (10x9x8 build volume) and the SeeMeCNC Rostock Max V3 (15 inch tall x 11 inch build volume) Im also using Simplify 3D as my slicer. I also will be printing a majority of the parts in Black PETG. More of a personal preference I prefer PETG due to its strength. Concerning the color of filament, I prefer printing in black because when I sand it, its much easier to see uneven surfaces or print lines that could be remaining.
For my first step, I loaded the files in Meshmixer to separate the shells. I found with this particular chest that printing each shell separately reduces the post processing time and support material. The only shell I had to slice was the shoulder strap due to its curved shape and printer orientation to reduce the amount of support structure.
Once all the shells/parts are finished printing, then I sand the outside with a rotary sander to remove any zits and to remove as many print lines as I can. Then I begin joining the parts together. I prefer to wait until everything is printed before putting the parts together to ensure everything will line up properly. I started using masking tape on the outside to line up and hold the parts together, then I use a soldering gun on the inside to join the pieces together between the seems. Once joined, I also use a little hot glue in certain places to ensure the parts stay together. For additional strength once this step is done, I basically have to options to consider. Using multiple layers of epoxy (you could use XTC-3D or Zpoxy) on the inside or fiberglass/poly resin to add a little extra strength. (I'm open to any other suggestions inside strength if anyone has any on this step)
Will post more detailed photos and processing steps as I go along. Also that is a older helmet so I will be making a new/better one for this build.


