Mandalorian Reference Thread

Ares X

Well-Known Member
So I came across this today - and immediately thought of you guys...


Its not perfect - but is pretty cool.

Jedi Dade


It's more accurate in scale than the Nerf version, but the parts are just 3D printed and not very well. You can see definite print lines. Also, in the video he admits that if the prongs are bumped into something with enough force they'll break and he shows it getting bumped into a door that wasn't all that hard and they did break. The prongs look way too big to me, but I haven't actually compared it to any screenshots.
 

t3hkgb

New Member
A lot of people are saying this is a Palmer Cap-Chur dart gun. Unfortunately, the whole fanbase is very incorrect... I'm not certain what it is exactly, but it has to be a .22lr target pistol something like a High Standard or Colt Match. I KNOW I've had this exact grip in my hands before, but I can't remember what exactly it was (I'm a gunsmith by trade, and I own my own gun shop; I know I've had one of these in-hand before, but I can't place it). I know it's a 70's-80's .22lr target pistol, but which one alludes me.

The grip angle and screw location are the only things correct when comparing it to the Palmer Cap-Chur; the trigger, trigger well, beavertail on the grips, etc. etc. etc. are all wrong when comparing the screenshots to the purported source item.

Unless the prop department at Mando took only the grip panels from the Palmer (and then, at that, edited them severely), there's no way this is a Palmer Cap-Chur....
 

Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm a gunsmith by trade, and I own my own gun shop
I may need to talk to you about some nerdy custom orders and gunsmithing work... ;)

A lot of the things you can find on Etsy and similarly offered through vendors who 3D print things... Well, ya really need to vet them. A friend has gotten both an E-22 and a Naboo S5 from Etsy vendors. The E-22 was a print of Sean Fields' files (I know, because I have them), and it's, in plain language, a shitshow. All PLA, the settings weren't dialed in as there were a few gaps and several pieces with bad layer adhesion, the scope had gotten jarred during printing and had a 1mm offset about halfway up, several pieces arrived broken, some weren't there at all, and it was printed with enough layer height that some detail was lost and there were SOOOOOO many print lines to sand and fill.

We've put many hours into it and it's starting to look decent, but I had to print/reprint some of the missing pieces, tossed the Hengstler and T-tracks and used my own, and had him order a real tac light and picatinny rail. Overall, it would've been cheaper for him, in materials and time, to have me print a kit for him, from the same files, in all-black PET-G (oh, yeah, the filament colors are all over the place, too) at finer resolution and ensuring no misprints. I'd still have used real T-track and accessories, but would've saved him the time he spent trying to sand, fill, and glue all the broken and low-res stuff.

The S5 is just a travesty, front to back. I can't even.

I got a good live-action Westar-35 off Etsy, but I did my homework and went with a good vendor. I'm still making a couple of my own, though, from modded airsoft pistols. This one was for a friend. For an Amban rifle, I'd definitely do as I did -- vet good, accurate 3D files and print it oneself, with good internal support (Sean, for instance, designs his blaster files to work with scaffolds of PVC pipe). I'm working on some FIrst Order stuff right now, and, except for the aluminum "holster" plate and the incredibly fiddly main sight piece, my SE-44C is all printed by me on a simple Prusa i3 with PET-G at 0.2mm layer height. Low and slow gives minimal post-processing and a nice sturdy prop:

SE-44C parts.jpg


SE-44C test assembly.jpg


I have since ground away that stubborn support inside the trigger guard, and the layer bands where the holes are on the flash hider took a bit of glazing putty, but the rest of this is after about an hour of sanding. There's not really any excuse any more for shoddy 3D prints.
 

Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
But that's all my old printer puts out! :D
Time to upgrade, then. ;) Depending on what size you're looking for, a new small X-Y-translation kit like the Prusa i3 or Creality Ender can be got for well under a thousand. And you can get the parts you need to build a large-volume Z-translation, dual-extruder FDM rig for about the same price (and print the mounts and fittings to put it together on the small printer).

Or you can luck out with location and contact. My local makerspace has a bank of Prusas and a couple larger printers, plus laser cutters and on up (jewelry studio, machine shop, metal-fab studio, woodshops, bookbinding and papermaking, fiber arts, culinary arts, recording studio... It's pretty frikkin' nice). The whole place is $300 a year or $30 a month, or you can just pay a drop-in fee if you only expect to be in sporadically. On top of that, a friend's step-dad works for Amazon (corporate/IT) and got transferred to London. He and his wife didn't want to bother trying to pack their 3D printers for the trip or store them for years States-side, so he gave me his Creality and she gave me her small SLA printer.

On top of that, I'm building a modified Vulcanis Max 520 (build volume 520mmx520mmx1500mm). The most expensive parts for that are teh two extruders and the control computer (that I'm saving for last, so I can get the latest versions). Everything else -- extrusions for the framework, motors and belts, threaded and smooth rods, build plate and heaters for it, power supply, all came to a couple hundred. I'm printing the other parts to put everything together on my Creality, so that's pretty much just the cost of filament. Next layer of cost will be the heated pressure-chamber I'm going to put it in, but I can get a large used pizza case and put a hasp on the door for cheap.

Point is, for the cost of less than a week's work, one can easily upgrade their gear, which pays for itself pretty quickly in fewer misprints and otherwise wasted materials.

P.s. That looks to be a Glock 17 Gen 3 or 4 lower; could easily find a cheap parts piece through the airsoft channels. :)
(tho, probs already knew that) :p
Yeah, they started with that. Thing that's a pisser for this new era of Star Wars is they start with an existing base gun, then 3D model it and alter it juuuuust enough the original article can't be used. The Glock for the SE-44C, the base guns for Poe's and Finn's blasters, the Bergmann for Mando, the airsoft Hi-Capa for the Westar-35, etc. Fortunately for my anal-ness, Germain over on the FISD, is an absolute machine for accuracy and detail. He spent months getting the SE and the F-11D (all versions) balls-on dead-accurate.

Mind if I DM you about the other stuff? :)
 

t3hkgb

New Member
Time to upgrade, then. ;)
Considering it, actually... The one I've got currently is a knockoff Prusa i3 from 2014. Not horrible, but it's impossible to do deep work on it, because literally everything is knocked off; board is a knockoff, firmware is a knockoff, etc... I'm afraid to try and screw with the firmware to correct its slight scaling issues...

Tho, I've been drooling over the latest Prusa i3's, pretty sure I'm gonna pick one up very soon...

Yeah, they started with that. Thing that's a pisser for this new era of Star Wars is they start with an existing base gun, then 3D model it and alter it juuuuust enough the original article can't be used. The Glock for the SE-44C, the base guns for Poe's and Finn's blasters, the Bergmann for Mando, the airsoft Hi-Capa for the Westar-35, etc. Fortunately for my anal-ness, Germain over on the FISD, is an absolute machine for accuracy and detail. He spent months getting the SE and the F-11D (all versions) balls-on dead-accurate.

Mind if I DM you about the other stuff? :)
By all means! :)

Also, those slight differences could indeed be from the use of firearm-inspired parts... Fennec Shand's MK Modified is a cheap A&K Dragunov airsoft rifle underneath (I had a broken one kicking around my shop for many years now, currently turning it into an MK Modified, thread over on TDH)... So, the inaccuracies of the A&K as compared to a real SVD rifle are actually accuracies in the prop itself...

It always pays to double-check the cheap crappy airsoft world when building props; after all, I highly doubt they're going to continue to modify real firearms, when airsoft replicas are WAY cheaper... Way back when, they needed real blank firable machines, and used what was available. Now days, airsofts are the way to go.
 
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Vagabond Elf

Active Member
Point is, for the cost of less than a week's work, one can easily upgrade their gear, which pays for itself pretty quickly in fewer misprints and otherwise wasted materials.

Man, I wish I earnt 1,000$ a week. That's about double my income - in CAD, never mind the conversion and shipping markups to get something to me!

But I overall agree with the sentiment. There's lots of times I wish I'd just saved longer and bought a higher quality printer in the first place. I've finally managed to make my Ender-5 work for me but there was a lot of fighting with it along the way.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Alright folks, looking for some help to identify the white case used in TBOBF Ch. 5 aka Mando s3 ep1

Heard some people say it's a Pelican case, but I've looked through all of their products and none of them are a close match. The form factors are closer to the style of some camera cases I've seen before. Does anyone recognize this?

View attachment 1539242
So I found the make but not the right model.. at the prices of these I’ll never own one. So what I have found is.. they are made by parker plastic


Not the exact model but you can see this length has the accurate top web count.. 6 lines down the top, the spacing is perfect but the height it too high..

You can see all they modified the corners and added some bump outs on the top
 

neophyl

Sr Member
So I found the make but not the right model.. at the prices of these I’ll never own one. So what I have found is.. they are made by parker plastic


Not the exact model but you can see this length has the accurate top web count.. 6 lines down the top, the spacing is perfect but the height it too high..

You can see all they modified the corners and added some bump outs on the top
I don't think they are the ones. First of all the case in the show has a hinge at the back and support bars to stop the lid opening too far. Those linked are lift off lids. Second I also don't think they added the bump corners. There are far far too many cases with that feature out there. Its very common if you search for ATA cases.
Unfortunately there are hundreds of suppliers and many of them do customs too.
 

neophyl

Sr Member
I've looked at far too many ATA cases lol. One thing that I find interesting in my internet travels is that these types of ATA cases are used to transport lots of film and photog gear. That link I posted previously has pics of a steadicam harness stored in one of theirs.
Who wants to place bets that they just modified something they already had that was/is normally used for transporting their normal film gear.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've looked at far too many ATA cases lol. One thing that I find interesting in my internet travels is that these types of ATA cases are used to transport lots of film and photog gear. That link I posted previously has pics of a steadicam harness stored in one of theirs.
Who wants to place bets that they just modified something they already had that was/is normally used for transporting their normal film gear.
100% agree, that’s where I started when searching. Figuring it was camera related
 

Ares X

Well-Known Member
I've looked at far too many ATA cases lol. One thing that I find interesting in my internet travels is that these types of ATA cases are used to transport lots of film and photog gear. That link I posted previously has pics of a steadicam harness stored in one of theirs.
Who wants to place bets that they just modified something they already had that was/is normally used for transporting their normal film gear.

Makes perfect sense.
 

t3hkgb

New Member
I've looked at far too many ATA cases lol. One thing that I find interesting in my internet travels is that these types of ATA cases are used to transport lots of film and photog gear. That link I posted previously has pics of a steadicam harness stored in one of theirs.
Who wants to place bets that they just modified something they already had that was/is normally used for transporting their normal film gear.
Honestly? I would expect no less... If I was tapped to work on a Star Wars title, you could bet all my gear boxes would receive the Star Wars scene treatment; paintjob, random techno-greeblies glued to it, etc. etc. etc.... <3
 

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