So the stickers should be over the clear? (I had intended to put them on, THEN clear coat)
Making the Carlyle Elysium SMG
- Thread starter scornflake
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So the stickers should be over the clear? (I had intended to put them on, THEN clear coat)
joberg
Legendary Member
Depending on the type of sticker/decals you'll put on, the paper quality (or the transparent plastic film) might be impacted by your clear coat...now or overtime.
Sorry, I should have said clear sticker. When doing printed stickers, it is common that paints/ cleaners and sealers will eat the printed material and wash your image. In these instances you have two stickers, one with the image and one clear layer over that.
So the order is, print the image either on sticker material or on a proper base material (not paper)(waterproof paper is not paper, it is plastic), then place a full layer of clear STICKER material over it. Then and only then cut it to the shape it should be. Then either stick it on (sticker) or adhere it yourself (made your own sticker by putting adhesive on the back). Then you can clear coat over it and even do weathering and washes because you have a full clear plastic sheet covering your valuable image.
Citrus cleaners and other DEGREASERS are devastating to printed stickers but I have seen clear vinyl two layer protected ones survive even that (even though the adhesive back will suffer).
So the order is, print the image either on sticker material or on a proper base material (not paper)(waterproof paper is not paper, it is plastic), then place a full layer of clear STICKER material over it. Then and only then cut it to the shape it should be. Then either stick it on (sticker) or adhere it yourself (made your own sticker by putting adhesive on the back). Then you can clear coat over it and even do weathering and washes because you have a full clear plastic sheet covering your valuable image.
Citrus cleaners and other DEGREASERS are devastating to printed stickers but I have seen clear vinyl two layer protected ones survive even that (even though the adhesive back will suffer).
I did Log trucks for a very long time and they used serious cleaners on their rigs. Powerwashing, hard bristle brushes and resin/pitch removers and a clear vinyl layer would make the sticker last for years. Without it, one serious degreaser cleaning and it was a WHITE STICKER...ALL COLOR GONE.
If this is something you might do often and don't want to go to Staples every time. Buy some sticker paper for your printer. It needs to be non wood pulp, definitely like tyvec or similar. They make it for inkjet and laser color printers. And buy a clear (NOT MATTE) and THIN (not vehicle clear) clear vinyl roll. You will be in sticker heaven. You can print whatever you want, cover it in clear vinyl and put it wherever you wish. It lasts for years. Honestly, any sticker questions, just holler, it is one of the only things in life that I know too much about. As for purposed to a specific model or whether it sticks to a specific 3d plastic type???? But the making of, ya, I got your back.
Wow! Thanks greenmachines, awesome info! I hadn't even *considered* printing them myself. I don't currently have an inkjet or color laser, but those are cheap(er) now. I'm assuming I can get hold of the materials you mention (though I havn't checked locally).
For a clear cover over the sticker, does it have to also cover over the edge of the printed sticker part?
Second Q is if the sticker has a non rectangular shape - how do you cut the clear vinyl for the top (cover) so it doesn't look .... crap? Is it a case of a sharp scalpel?
I've only just tonight gotten around to asking 3 local places for quotes / feasibility. We'll see how they turn out. I don't know as yet what materials those people I've asked for quotes would be using.
This is all after taking some time off to change out the clutch on my car (which I had never done before). It turned into a 4 day job because I made a 101 mistake with the clutch fork and had to ... take it all apart and do it a second time. Guess that's how one learns!
For a clear cover over the sticker, does it have to also cover over the edge of the printed sticker part?
Second Q is if the sticker has a non rectangular shape - how do you cut the clear vinyl for the top (cover) so it doesn't look .... crap? Is it a case of a sharp scalpel?
I've only just tonight gotten around to asking 3 local places for quotes / feasibility. We'll see how they turn out. I don't know as yet what materials those people I've asked for quotes would be using.
This is all after taking some time off to change out the clutch on my car (which I had never done before). It turned into a 4 day job because I made a 101 mistake with the clutch fork and had to ... take it all apart and do it a second time
. Guess that's how one learns!
Wow! Thanks greenmachines, awesome info! I hadn't even *considered* printing them myself. I don't currently have an inkjet or color laser, but those are cheap(er) now. I'm assuming I can get hold of the materials you mention (though I havn't checked locally).
For a clear cover over the sticker, does it have to also cover over the edge of the printed sticker part?
Second Q is if the sticker has a non rectangular shape - how do you cut the clear vinyl for the top (cover) so it doesn't look .... crap? Is it a case of a sharp scalpel?
I've only just tonight gotten around to asking 3 local places for quotes / feasibility. We'll see how they turn out. I don't know as yet what materials those people I've asked for quotes would be using.
This is all after taking some time off to change out the clutch on my car (which I had never done before). It turned into a 4 day job because I made a 101 mistake with the clutch fork and had to ... take it all apart and do it a second time
The cutting results are the actual reason for waiting to cut until you have placed the clear over the print. Only when they are cut together (clear already applied) does it look legit. The sticker will need to stay on its backer sheet after printing. Lay the clear over it. Then squeegy out any bubbles if needed. Then cut. After the cutting is complete to the final shape, you can peel the sticker off the backer paper and apply. There are techniques to each step so videos are your friend. For larger stickers, I use soapy water on the surface I am sticking to which allows it to be lifted and adjusted until you are happy with placement, then pin down one edge and slowly squeegee the water out. Take several runs at it and all the water will be gone. For the full sticker run through where exact placement is needed an over sheet of light tack tape is used but this is more technique than you need for these small ones.
If you are lucky enough to have all straight edges needed, use a cutting guide/straight edge rather than eyeballing it.
Most of the materials are readily available at office supply and automotive supply stores (paint shops). And Staples will print them for you and sell you the cover clear as well.
And ALWAYS practice on a sample board or plank rather than on your work.
joberg
Legendary Member
Stickers: [x] TICK. Whew. Had to recreate them using an SVG editor. Took a bit of time, but now I have them!
So we have 3 x full color. And then a bunch of transfers. greenmachines, how are transfers normally handled?
(by transfer I mean something applies with some transfer tape, where there are non-joined but 'gee I really do want to be aligned' pieces)
So we have 3 x full color. And then a bunch of transfers. greenmachines, how are transfers normally handled?
(by transfer I mean something applies with some transfer tape, where there are non-joined but 'gee I really do want to be aligned' pieces)
This will of course be much more than you need but read all the way through for anything useful.
The two step print and cut process for detailed interior cuts is done with printers like cricut, roland, and others. If you have a local sign and banner seller they will have at least one of these.
The coming steps (below) will have the same process as if it were printed and cut or just cut.
The sticker (assumed already cut) will still be on its backer paper. Lay this flat and secure it down on the edges (not necessary after some experience but it keeps you from cutting yourself). Use a needle or an exacto as a pick tool. For all unwanted sections, pick the unwanted part just inside a cut edge and pull away from the other section that is staying. DO NOT TRY TO PLACE IT IN THE GAP. Trying to pick into the gap will inevitably mar the edge of the piece you are keeping. Pull away and then up in a single motion. Pulling straight up will often lift it and the piece that was supposed to stay. If the cuts are not deep enough you might need to hold down the other piece with a pencil eraser but keep your hand out of there or there will be blood, guaranteed. Once you have the loose bit up, stick it to something going into the trash one at a time. Don't keep picking with something already stuck to the pick or it will reapply to good parts.
If you already have the removal done or say it came ready to go, you need transfer tape. Transfer tape is like masking tape but light duty tackiness. I prefer clear but it is likely only available at a banner shop or craft store. In your case it is VERY important because you want to see where your sticker is going very precisely. This can be done with regular masking or opaque transfer but that entails experience and placing target marks on the sticker edge and then on the transfer tape. You would be drawing the shape of your sticker onto the side of the tape you can still see. Not easy so clear is your best path. This might be available at craft stores that sell cricuts but will surely be available at any sign and banner shop and and car paint shop.
Tape the sticker and backer paper (not yet removed) down on a table, face up, by taping the backer paper edges only. Then prep a piece of transfer tape that is bigger in all directions than your decal, big enough that you have room to grab the edges with your fingers and not be touching the decal but not so big that it becomes hard to maneuver. For first time practice sticking one full straight edge down on the table to one side of you sticker, straight is very important as you will be working in a single plane. If the edge of the tape is bunchy or the line stuck down is not straight, it isn't going to lay flat. I cheat and tape the edge of a book or board and the pull the tape back so i can place the edge of the book down, taping the straight edge of the tape to the table. Pull the board away sideways leaving the tape stuck to the table. then use the book to squeegee the tape toward and over the decal. Lightly push down the transfer tape on the decal parts you will be lifting. When done you pull the whole piece up off the table, the same way you laid it down. The sticker parts will lift with it, ready to apply. If the backer paper comes as well, peel it away slowly.
I usually spray the surface with soapy water that allows me to pull it up again if needed. Once exactly where you need it, first push straight down onto the sticker with a sponge or still brush (I have wool pads for this) to push the water out with dabs. Hold it in place and then squeegee from center of decal, slowly away to the side, doing that repeatedly until done in all directions. Begin to lift the transfer tape, stopping to slow down as you pull it up off the decal (which should now be there forever.
The super short version is: pick out the trash, apply transfer tape, lift and peel away backer paper, apply to project (with soapy water if you want a second chance), push down until safe to lift transfer tape.
Oh and if you want to go really home grown, you can lay strips of clear office tape (not packing tape) over the sticker and over lap the next and the next until you have created your own clear transfer tape, flip it over and peel the backer paper off slowly and go to work.
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took me quite a while to find a video that was correct and this lady nails it:
slow start but she tags each of my normal steps except the soapy water which is a hard surface only trick and not for crafters
slow start but she tags each of my normal steps except the soapy water which is a hard surface only trick and not for crafters
joberg
Legendary Member
When my father was applying transfer letters to glass (for window displays for stores/restaurants, etc...) he always used the soap trick to play with, sometimes, huge decals/transfers.
Sounds like you got the same apprenticeship I did. To those who have lived the sticker life, I say strange things, like, "that was about as easy to read as black on glass".When my father was applying transfer letters to glass (for window displays for stores/restaurants, etc...) he always used the soap trick to play with, sometimes, huge decals/transfers.
In this video she shows the edge trick, revealing only one straight edge of sticker before tacking it on. MUST be straight. This makes it totally possible for one person to do what would have been a several person job. If you leave only tack sheet revealed but leave backer paper in place, it is possible to take quite a few first guesses lining up on a difficult spot. Once it looks correct just hanging from that line, the paper gets pulled away as you squeegee down from the top. With that and the soapy water, I have done 6 foot letters on the sides of dump trucks, completely solo. For items not on flat surfaces it is so awesome to be able to see where it is all going to land before committing your actual sticker to the surface. You can use yet another set of masking tape to give it "ears" and play with placement all day before ever exposing the sticker backer. Picked up all of it from just watching a pro here in town. It is where I got my love of masterclasses and working cheap or free as the 'helper'/apprentice. Speaking of..... I have a few more walls to knock down in my quest for 3d printer knowledge, scornflake so shall I post here or pm? I badly need a full 3d worldview thread where we drag our 3d pros kicking and screaming to help save humanity.... or at least our polymer replication of it.
I would say fire up another thread. I'm *trying* to make this one just about building the Carlyle SMG - unsure how well I'm succeeding at that, but that's the idea
. I'm happy to share what I do, 3d wise, if it's any use?!
Throw up some pics and sources when you get to the printing stage. I would love to see the production of the stickers. You must have some crazy good design skill in those fingers because the stickers look official. What software did you use for your vector art?I would say fire up another thread. I'm *trying* to make this one just about building the Carlyle SMG - unsure how well I'm succeeding at that, but that's the idea
Will do! I ended up using a trial of Boxy (web based svg editor). It's.... OK, does the job.
I miiiiight have just bought a vinyl cutter.
Still learning. But after three cuts got a “weed” (cutter world word!) that gave me a good transfer. Of course you could weed (sounding fancy again) the negative and spray that on the thing.
Still learning. But after three cuts got a “weed” (cutter world word!) that gave me a good transfer. Of course you could weed (sounding fancy again) the negative and spray that on the thing.
Attachments
For many of the military props, that is the proper method. It is a stencil only because military paints will last for decades versus sticker lasting years. Side tangent, the yellow used for that type of work is now no longer available due to its tendency to cause cancer. The color was referred to as safety yellow by non military because of how often it was used to alert civilians to danger. Went on so thick it looked like embossing. Very common to find it on larger machine guns.
You are going to love having your own cutter for these projects. Cut positives, cut negatives, pinstriping and pinstriping negatives (applying pinstriping, paint the whole gun and then remove the pinstriping), stickers, acid wash stencils for glass, on and on. Youn can even stencil electrical connections for conductive strips that take up no space.
