Making the Carlyle Elysium SMG
- Thread starter scornflake
- Start date
the wall mount, painted up.
It I think (I hope) is obvious. I didn't sand anything. I didn't try to get things perfect.
For me this is a "get it on the wall and make it not look entirely crap" type of thing.
The gun itself? Oh; I'll go to ALL kinds of crazy to get THAT looking good. The mount? Well, seems my brain says it's "ok" for it to be average
It I think (I hope) is obvious. I didn't sand anything. I didn't try to get things perfect.
For me this is a "get it on the wall and make it not look entirely crap" type of thing.
The gun itself? Oh; I'll go to ALL kinds of crazy to get THAT looking good. The mount? Well, seems my brain says it's "ok" for it to be average
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I honestly don't remember which it was but verathane or shellac works as a last resort because it doesn't use the same solvent as the gold paint.
you mean - as a potential clear coat?
I know! if *only* wanted that finish. It's actually amazing.So, silver lining about the gold + clear coat (maybe it's gold lining instead
Ya, I had several gold and silver paint projects that ended in waiting for the paint to dry and then using a non standard clear coat spray like what was intended for wood coating. I wish I remembered which it was but I am going to say it was verithane spray. The downside to that one is it will pick up some of the color over time into the clear itself if the underpaint was not fully dry.
looking great
Annnnd. Beginning to ponder weathering. Thought I’d throw the front parts together. From here tho, it’s “decide on weathering level” and go do it
What do you peeps use to clean stuff? Let’s assume I’ve not been perfect and have touched the parts. Oily hands. Etc. before clear coat, what do you all do?
I haven’t tried alcohol yet. I don’t know if it’ll remove weathering or base color paint.
So I just be anal about gloves? Or maybe resort to a mild soap/water clean before clear?
I haven’t tried alcohol yet. I don’t know if it’ll remove weathering or base color paint.
So I just be anal about gloves? Or maybe resort to a mild soap/water clean before clear?
joberg
Legendary Member
joberg
Legendary Member
No alcohol for sure...soap and water will do fine
After first layer paints I would stick with soap and water from there on out. The only other methods would be to have a list of each paint you used and its known solvent types so that you could avoid using them. The only time this rule doesn't work is in makeup effects because so much of that IS water soluble and you actually then used a DIFFERENT base for your astringent soaps instead of water. I would go with gloves and dust cover containers instead.
Speaking of, all of my stain markers for weathering are alcohol based.
Speaking of, all of my stain markers for weathering are alcohol based.
So making some progress. I’ve done a number of tan washes (very diluted) over the body then I’ve washed over those with black to tone them down. You can see in the pics that I need to black wash the right side some more:
The other pics show… just more, different angles
The side badges are attached, and I’ve better filled in the silver dots on the handle (cut a toothpick in half and used the end to dab)
The other pics show… just more, different angles
The side badges are attached, and I’ve better filled in the silver dots on the handle (cut a toothpick in half and used the end to dab)
Attachments
My next and only outstanding “what to do here” are the graphics. I can likely replicate them in some kinda vector art app. Then I have to see if it’s cost effective to get a sheet of them done.
I’ve considered making a single layer stencil, but it’s only likely doable for the large lettering at the back of the stock. Theres four other much more intricate/detailed that’d be better as a thin sticker or decal.
Hummmmm
I’ve considered making a single layer stencil, but it’s only likely doable for the large lettering at the back of the stock. Theres four other much more intricate/detailed that’d be better as a thin sticker or decal.
Hummmmm
I am NOT a veteran of decals specifically for this purpose but I do have about 30 years in the printing industry. So there are two categories that apply here, those staying on the device and those just used as a mask for painting onto the suface. Which are you intending?
yaris
Sr Member
Whether its a vinyl decal or a vinyl stencil, you'll still need a vector file and someone to cut them on a vinyl cutter. There's probably a vinyl cutting service online somewhere.....
You could get a digital print decal, but then it's decal with a shape edge.
I think that for single color (the GKR logo, and the logo onthe site) a stencil could be used, and then airbrush on the right color.
And when I say 'stencil' here I mean an adhesive negative, with a applicator, so as to get position right. Spray, then peel off.
For the others tho, they are multi color. I'm presuming that means a custom sticker of some type would be more suitable?
Unsure if there are viable alternatives.
Sample "others" that I think could be stickers:
And when I say 'stencil' here I mean an adhesive negative, with a applicator, so as to get position right. Spray, then peel off.
For the others tho, they are multi color. I'm presuming that means a custom sticker of some type would be more suitable?
Unsure if there are viable alternatives.
Sample "others" that I think could be stickers:
There are laser color options at most print stores for sticker materials. If your local one does not have that, ask for "waterproof paper". You can adhere that yourself to the gun by painting the adhesive on the paper and letting it nearly dry. For the ones that are obviously clear coated, put your second clear layer on before cutting the shape and before adhering to the surface.
All that said most print stores, Staples, etcetera, will be able to print multicolor laser on sticker material.
