Making Room for My 1/350 TOS Enterprise!

[Rahn420]

First of all... Hello everybody. Long-time lurker.

This will be my first contribution to this forum. Well, actually, my fist contribution to ANY forum.

I’m about to embark on my own adventure of building the Polar Lights 1/350 TOS Enterprise.

It’s been a little while since I built my last model. It so happens that I recently came across the ‘remains’ of that model I built... when the subject was current! What, 1989/90? (I’m so ashamed)

I’ve built several AMT Enterprises over the years. The first one was around 1972 at the age of 10. It was a long box, no lights, with only one registry number on the decal sheet... the NCC-1701.

At the time I got that model, I didn’t even know what it was. I knew it was a space ship, but had no knowledge of the show. Because I already had a fondness for Science Fiction, Space, Monsters, etc., the model appealed to me more than the cars, ships and planes at the hobby shop.

And, that hobby shop. It was in Bishop, CA. It was one of those shops you don’t see anymore. It was small, quiet, dimly lit, and fascinating to an impressionable 10 year old boy.

I also had a teacher at that time who built models as a hobby. He had several dioramas in the classroom, mostly WWII German military stuff. Occasionally, he would host modeling ‘get togethers’ in his class room.

We painted that first Enterprise blue. Hey, that's what it looked like on my TV.

Then, I found the Klingon Battle Cruiser! Didn’t know what it was either. But, it looked cool, it said Star Trek on the box, therefore it went with my Enterprise... so I had to have one (painted it blue, too). After that, it was the Romulan Bird of Prey, the K7... or was it the Galileo? And, what is now known as the ‘Leif Ericson Galactic Cruiser - Strategic Space Command”. Except, when I built it, it was the ‘Interplanetary UFO Mystery Ship - Strategic Space Command” and it glowed in the dark. Sounded cool, look cool... had to have one.

I started building every sci-fi hardware model I could find... Star Trek, Star Wars, Battlestar Galactica, Buck Rogers, The Black Hole, etc. The entire perimeter of my late 1970's, teenage bedroom was a multi-verse of hanging ships.

All those ships still exist... somewhere. But, I also know that the majority of them were crushed when someone left a much too heavy box on top of the box they were stored in. I’ll have to dig them up, someday.

I collected up a lot of those kits to do again, someday. But, I never got around to it.

Now, we have the Polar Lights 1/350 TOS Enterprise.

From the day I first heard of the model’s development, I knew I would have to have one (two, three).

I joined the 1701 Club, got my blue shirt and would scour every update with a fine tooth comb.

And, now, it’s here.

I have two Premiere Edition kits, a Standard Edition, the Deluxe Accessory Pack and the lone Lighting Kit. I plan to build the Standard kit as the Production version.

Also, since I live in a rather small apartment with my girlfriend, I want to attempt some kind of wall mount. Maybe, something along these lines.

So...

Step 1: Reclaim my workspace

My table sort of became a ‘catch-all’.

Let me get to work on that, and I’ll be right back.

 

[Proper]

Rahn, welcome!

I'm a big TOS fan, too. But I haven't built a model since about '82 so I'm too much of a yellow-belly to attempt anything on my R2 kit. It's still sealed! I have the MR E which I'm pretty happy with but it does take up a whole lotta space on its pedestal (see pic).

You sound pretty excited about building this thing. I'd love to watch your build if you document it.

That wall mount idea sounds very interesting. I would estimate that the ship would still need to stick out quite a ways into the room from the wall since the secondary hull is almost 15" in diameter, though.

 

[Rahn420]

Well, this is better. My girlfriend is certainly happier for it. Wish I could say the same for the cat. I’ll have to wait for her to relinquish the blankets so they can be moved.

I’ve done a dry-fit of the major parts.

Everything fits together very well, but I do have a couple of problems with...

Warped parts.

As many others have noticed, the inner Bussard dome shafts (Part #140) are bent. That could be an easily fixed issue, but there is another, more serious problem.

The lower Primary Hull (Part #1) is warped at the center. The Sensor Dome (Part #101) won’t fit properly.

I mailed in a Replacement Parts Request to Round2 about a month ago, but have not heard anything back, yet.

In the meantime, I’ll start work on the interior elements.

 

[Rahn420]

Rahn, welcome!

I'm a big TOS fan, too. But I haven't built a model since about '82 so I'm too much of a yellow-belly to attempt anything on my R2 kit. It's still sealed! I have the MR E which I'm pretty happy with but it does take up a whole lotta space on its pedestal (see pic).

You sound pretty excited about building this thing. I'd love to watch your build if you document it.

That wall mount idea sounds very interesting. I would estimate that the ship would still need to stick out quite a ways into the room from the wall since the secondary hull is almost 15" in diameter, though.

That is a very nice display, and a type I would much prefer. But, there is not a single foot of floorspace along a wall left in my apartment. It's about a 25x25' foot room.

Agreed, that it will protrude considerably from the wall it's mounted to. The spot where I plan to mount it is right above my TV. On it's stand, the TV also comes about a foot and a half out from the wall as well. So, there would be no chance of someone running into it.

 

[Proper]

Agreed, that it will protrude considerably from the wall it's mounted to. The spot where I plan to mount it is right above my TV. On it's stand, the TV also comes about a foot and a half out from the wall as well. So, there would be no chance of someone running into it.

Actually, that sounds like a great idea, above the TV! If I were you I would definitely built the wall-hung apparatus to include an acrylic case around the ship, as well. Or I would consider a new TV/entertainment center that encases the TV and that the Enterprise can sit on top of. See, you've opened up a whole can of worms... :lol

That sucks about the warped parts! I'd try calling them.

 

[Rahn420]

Actually, that sounds like a great idea, above the TV! If I were you I would definitely built the wall-hung apparatus to include an acrylic case around the ship, as well. Or I would consider a new TV/entertainment center that encases the TV and that the Enterprise can sit on top of. See, you've opened up a whole can of worms... :lol

That sucks about the warped parts! I'd try calling them.

Yeah, I've not liked the thought of it being 'exposed' on the wall. I worry that a huge acrylic box on the wall will look incredibly massive.

The whole idea is still pretty rough in concept. A lot to consider.

I did hear 'something' from Round2.

I had tried emailing them several times, with the emails bouncing back as undeliverable.

It seems they must have gotten my emails after all.

I have a reply from someone named Meghan simply saying "I am looking into this".

 

[Rahn420]

I was dry fitting the Shuttle Bay and thought the walls needed a little more dimension.

I thought I'd open up the bays on the wall sections. Since I'm using the lighting kit, I used the opaque part as a test. I think this look good.

I started working on the clear parts, and I have already had my first 'uh oh' (to put my reaction nicely) moment.

Note to self: Clear parts are a bit more brittle than opaque styrene (I actually knew that, but I've never tried to modify clear parts before).

I chipped off the corner at the bottom of the back right bay. I drilled around the edges of the bay, then went to cut (connect the dots) with an Xacto knife and it cracked.

I figure I have few options to recover:

1. I have a second light kit, if I want to start off with a new part.
2. I can use the opaque part and drill out the windows. I have PE for those anyway.
3. Salvage the chipped part by filing the bay back wider to flatten it out again. Also, doing the same for the left bay.

I think I'm leaning toward option #2.

For the other parts, I used a micro-saw instead of the Xacto. No other chips or cracks.

With the raised lines on the backs of the side walls, I'm finding it hard to see the bay edges clearly to file back to. Perhaps a hit of primer on the interior face will help.

This brings me to my first question, regarding...

Primers:

Are there adequate/decent spray can primers available in larger, less expensive cans (thinking Lowes/Home Depot)? Or, should I go for more expensive 'modeler' brands? Something that sprays a little rough is fine on the hull, where I can sand it. But, I won’t be able to sand the walls and I want to hold corner details as much as possible.

And, are there considerations for primers based on what you will be putting on it? For instance... if you are following Round2's color references, The base hull color in an acrylic, while the Shuttle Bay colors are enamels.

 

[FordPrefect]

Great looking project and like the update notes !

I love the idea of placement for the finished model. Sorry to hear about the unresponsiveness on the model parts hope you get the new ones. If you have to work the parts yourself please share the process would be interested in this.

Good luck and look forward to watching your progress.

 

[PHArchivist]

Sucks you got warped parts...

Probably better to plan on correcting them rather than replacing.

 

[Rahn420]

Sucks you got warped parts...

Probably better to plan on correcting them rather than replacing.

The warped part issue must be a common one. There is a whole thread on it at HobbyTalk.

The dome shafts could be removed and replaced. The lower saucer will be trickier. It is that ring in the center that is most noticeably warped.

I have two Premier kits. I've opened one. One of it's dome shafts is also warped. As far as I can tell through the bag, the saucer looks good.

At worst, one of my Prem kits will become a box of spare parts (not my preferred option). Or, I could try my hand at casting and cast the ring off the good part and try to graft it on the bad part.

One step at a time.

 

[Rahn420]

Since I’ve been working with the clear stuff, I started thinking about experimenting on the Bussard domes.

I knew they needed to be defused.

I’ve read about people using steel wool to scuff up the plastic. I’ve never tried it, so I thought I’d look into that.

I first tried it on the Bussard dome that was most warped. I plan on scuffing the outside of the inner dome, the inside of the outer dome, then my final dull coat on the outside.

My ‘Uh-Oh’ Moment #2

I will tell myself, again… Clear=Brittle

I chipped one of the outer domes.

I clipped with clippers and it chipped.

Then there was that moment of me thinking… “Hmmm… Didn’t the instructions say something about ‘rocking’ the sprues off?” - Doh!

The dome won’t be glued in place, so it can suffice until I come up with another part.


I wasn’t sure how I wanted to work the ‘fan blades’ in the Bussards.

I have the PE set with the brass strips, and I know there is the vinyl window masks set that comes with strips. I think both sets are great offerings and I will be using them both. But for the blades, I wanted something different.

Maybe it’s just me, but I always had the impression that the blades narrowed as they came towards the center. I have considered that it could be a focal illusion… where the blades that are closer to the diffusion of the outer dome look sharper (narrower), than the parts further in, away from the diffusion.

I preferred that look, so I cut tapered 'blades'.

Fortunately I’m a graphic artist for a place with a vinyl cutter. I drew up an Illustrator file with the same dimensions as the PE strips, except I narrowed one end by half.

I knew I didn’t want black vinyl… and I didn’t want white.

What I wound up using was a scrap of 3M reflective vinyl that my company prints signs on. It is silver/grayer than white, more metallic (hard to tell in the photos).

Hmmm… not sure I’m diggin’ it. They are still a bit ‘brighter’ than I care for. I’d like something subtler. Something to block the lights, but not stand out so much when the lights are off.

I’ll give it a chance to grow on me. It can be changed anytime.

I have some new tools coming in tomorrow, including the tiniest brushes I could find for…

This!

I have NO clue how I’ll pull this off. Couldn’t it have been three pieces (a floor and a couple of wall sections)? That would have been far easier to paint. I don’t think I have the hand (or the eyes) for it. I’ll do a practice run on the opaque part first. Maybe I’ll even contract it out.

 

[Robiwon]

Welcome back to the wonderful world of model building. Love the shots of your old room! Very, very much like mine, except I had Star Wars curtains in mine!

A tip for removing clear parts, especially ones with a large sprue tab on them, saw them off. You can get an Xacro saw blade and handle for a few bucks. Saw the clear part off and the using a sanding stick or padded nail file, sand the nub down to the part. Like you said, clear parts are more brittle then opaque, less rubber content in the plastic.

Have fun building it and hope your replacement parts come soon.

 

[division 6]

For that chip in the hanger wall, since it is supposed to be solid just use some epoxy putty to rebuild the edge.
Once painted no one will know.

 

[division 6]

A thought I had on the bridge.

Remove the floor on the clear one but make sure to keep the nav console and captains chair.
Then chop the floor off the solid bridge, remove the console and seat as well as the railing and use the clear an PE parts.

 

[Proper]

Wow! That bridge looks mighty small. Tough to work with. Good luck! Need a jeweler's eyepiece (at least I would) and a surgeon's hand. The good thing (or bad) is a lot of that detail won't be seen once the dome is on.

 

[Rahn420]

A thought I had on the bridge.

Remove the floor on the clear one but make sure to keep the nav console and captains chair.
Then chop the floor off the solid bridge, remove the console and seat as well as the railing and use the clear an PE parts.

I have also considered something similar, but I was not going to worry about separating the command area from the floor. I just thought solid floor, clear walls. If I wanted to light the center console, I'll drill it and fill it with clear.

My concern is destroying both parts beyond saving in the process.

 

[Rahn420]

Welcome back to the wonderful world of model building. Love the shots of your old room! Very, very much like mine, except I had Star Wars curtains in mine!

Not curtains... sheets, lol.

 

[Rahn420]

Oh yeah, I got my tiny brushes (and a few other items), today. It's a set of four, but I think these two will be my best used.

 

[Proper]

I've seen the finished bridge looking OK on another thread (can't remember where I saw it) but personally, I don't quite get the bridge included with this kit since the bridge cannot be seen from the outside of the ship and #2, at that size it's just too small to look anywhere near scale accurate and so to me it detracts from the authenticity of the rest of the model, making it look more like a toy. If I ever build this I would simply omit it and frost the clear dome, as it appears in the MR model.

 

[Rahn420]

I've seen the finished bridge looking OK on another thread (can't remember where I saw it) but personally, I don't quite get the bridge included with this kit since the bridge cannot be seen from the outside of the ship and #2, at that size it's just too small to look anywhere near scale accurate and so to me it detracts from the authenticity of the rest of the model, making it look more like a toy. If I ever build this I would simply omit it and frost the clear dome, as it appears in the MR model.

I totally understand the thought. I just think it would be a nice touch to have the bridge. I can also see it being impractical. Especially, when I'm thinking of hanging the model on the wall (I do want to make it removable from the wall plaque).

I was also going to either use the white dome, or frost the clear one, but not actually glue it on (making it removable).

Another deciding factor will be lighting. If I can't get similar brightness from the top and bottom domes with the bridge in place, I will probably omit it.

It will all come down to testing.