Making Room for My 1/350 TOS Enterprise!

[trekriffic]

Maybe it’s just me, but I always had the impression that the blades narrowed as they came towards the center. I have considered that it could be a focal illusion… where the blades that are closer to the diffusion of the outer dome look sharper (narrower), than the parts further in, away from the diffusion.

I preferred that look, so I cut tapered 'blades'.

Someone on another forum pointed out that the tapering may just be an optical illusion similar to what one sees with a spinning propeller caused by the outermost point of the propeller covering a greater distance than the inner portion as it spins. You can see this in this image:

The tip of the propeller is actually thinner than it's middle but in the photo the propeller seems to be narrower at the center and widen outward.

 

[Rahn420]

I’ve been playing around with Shuttle Bay lighting theories.

I have to say, I am wondering if a satisfactory balance of lighting the bay and aft end of the secondary hull can be achieved.

For the bay, getting it look as if the ceiling lights are fully lit does not seem possible. And, with the bay in place, evenly lighting the aft side widows seems difficult.

Just too narrow of spaces in there.

I’m going to give it my best shot at both. But, in the end, I could end up not installing the bay.

One modification I had to do to the ceiling part:

There is a groove in the part that I assume is a channel for the wires leading to the LED for the rear control room. The problem is that the LED leads, with their shrink tubing, is wider and thicker than that groove.

So, I filed it wider and deeper in that area.

Something else I had not thought of is that the wires will be visible through the ceiling lights. If I want to hide them, the center divider will have to be painted wider than accurate.

Something I did find interesting. It could be coincidence, or a lighting idea that didn’t pan out.

At the aft end of the ceiling part are two holes that are the same size of the ceiling LEDs.

I did a dry fit test with the LEDs in these holes. Though it still didn’t make the ceiling lights look lit, it did a wonderful job of lighting the interior.

I know these ‘bumps’ that I stuck the LEDs in are not considered lighting in the bay architecture, but I thought I could paint the surfaces viewable through the door and leave the far side clear. Then I could paint the ceiling light panels white (thus hiding the wires).

But there’s the catch. Those tight spaces, again.

To put the LEDs there, the leads would have to be bent by over 90 degrees, flush to the LEDs, along the ceiling towards those side ‘troughs’, then 90 degrees again along those troughs to run the wires out the back.

That’s the part I don’t think I could do with damaging the LEDs.

 

[Rahn420]

FINALLY!

I heard back from Round2 regarding my replacement parts. They are due to show up any day (I hope).

I’ll finally have my lower saucer and Bussard (what’s a Bussard, anyway?) domes.

With the saucer on the way, I have a question.

I want to fill the grid.

And, I want to know… what is my best approach.

I’ve used Testors white and Squadron green putties. I have never been thrilled with either.

If you look at the Batmobile photos at the start of this thread, look at the base of the tail fins/wings.
I used Squadron cut with Testors liquid glue back then.

I filled, sanded, repeated many times and never got rid of that seam.


Part of my concern is that the grid is (hopefully) larger than any seam that I will encounter. Does the grid's width/depth weigh in on my approach.


I’ve never used it, but I’ve read of builders using Bondo (glazing spot putty, yes?).

I’ve also read that it cures pretty hard compared to the plastic.

Does this cause concern while sanding? Could I, if not careful, wind up with a slightly raised grid?

Since I’m getting a replacement lower saucer, my warped one is open to experimentation.

I’m just looking for suggestions/warnings.

I’ve been reading every thread I can find. But, so far, no one has challenged ‘The Grid’.

 

[division 6]

Bondo spot putty is not hard.
To get it to work better on filling the seams I would squeeze some out into a tin (I use empty Altoids boxes) than add lacquer thinner to make a thin sludge then use a foam or cheap disposable brush to apply it.

Let it sit a day in a well ventilated area (outside is better) then sand.

 

[TrekFX]

To put the LEDs there, the leads would have to be bent by over 90 degrees, flush to the LEDs, along the ceiling towards those side ‘troughs’, then 90 degrees again along those troughs to run the wires out the back.

That’s the part I don’t think I could do with damaging the LEDs.

I get my first post!

I don't know how you are with soldering, but you can clip the leads almost flush with the LED base, then tack on a fine wire perpendicular to the little stub, being very careful to not overheat the joint and damaging the LED's internals. A hint of epoxy can add some strength and insulate.

You could try a conductive epoxy for the joint but it wouldn't be as robust.

 

[Replicator1701]

you can also sand down a LED so it farther down in the little hole

 

[Rahn420]

I get my first post!

I don't know how you are with soldering, but you can clip the leads almost flush with the LED base, then tack on a fine wire perpendicular to the little stub, being very careful to not overheat the joint and damaging the LED's internals. A hint of epoxy can add some strength and insulate.

You could try a conductive epoxy for the joint but it wouldn't be as robust.

Now that sounds like an idea. But, no, I don't have any decent experience with soldering.

To minimize my risk, can anyone tell me where I could find these same LEDs. They look to be about 3mm in diameter, and about 5.2mm tall with a flat top, actually concave. I have no clue to the power rating.

I'd like to buy a few and see what I can do without risking the originals should I fail.

 

[Rahn420]

you can also sand down a LED so it farther down in the little hole

The LED will go all the way in, but it gets pretty snug. I didn't want it to get stuck.

 

[Rahn420]

I went back to the 'fans' in the Bussards.

The reflective vinyl never grew on me.

These are done with foil tape scuffed with steel wool and cut in 1/16" strips.

I like these better. Still metallic, but not so bright.

 

[TrekFX]

Soldering really is easier than the black art status it seems to get! Like painting or building, you practice a bit, get it and go!

I need to update the "perpendicular wire" technique. You can use a fine wire like 30 ga or even smaller sometimes for low-power LEDS. Best way to attach wire is to hook the bare end of the wire around the LED lead prior to trimming. Unclipped, it's easier to work with and acts as a heat sink to protect the LED itself. A quick minimal solder followed by a close-trim finishes the job. A little epoxy smear can add a hint of stress relief and insulation.

 

[Rahn420]

HEY!

I Finally got my replacement parts, today.

I found them at Apt A at the apartments NEXT DOOR!

Apparently UPS thinks 519-A is close enough to 509-A

I'm glad I checked.

UPS can never find my place.

 

[FordPrefect]

HEY!

I Finally got my replacement parts, today.

I found them at Apt A at the apartments NEXT DOOR!

Apparently UPS thinks 519-A is close enough to 509-A

I'm glad I checked.

UPS can never find my place.

Argh these are the small things to make you crazy !
Glad you got the parts enjoy watching this thread.

 

[bradleythekid]

I can't wait to see this model finished!

 

[Rahn420]

I apologize for the slow pace of this build.

I keep finding things I feel I need to do it 'right', then having to come up with more funds.

Not having built in so long, it seems like I need EVERYTHING.

I was also dragging my feet a little until I knew for sure my replacement parts were coming.

At least I have a tax return on the horizon. That will be plenty to get everything else I need.

I did pick up some Bondo for my grid filling trials.

I hope I got the right stuff. I've never used it before. Any tips out there?

Should I take any protective measures to preserve the three deeper groove rings?

I'll be experimenting on my warped saucer. At least it will come in handy for something.

BTW, I could still use some suggestions on a good off the shelf spray primer. If I go with the recommended Tamiya JN Grey, which is acrylic, does that determine a type of primer I should use?

 

[Jedi Dade]

I've use glazing putty tons... first - and this is good advice for just about everything... try it on something you don't care about first. grab 1 pieces of sprue and glue then them fill the dip smooth or something equally "who cares if this is f'd up".

looking at yout pick I would not usr the masking tape... you wnat the putty to fill the hole to the level of the hull. if you use tape when you wipe the excess off you're gonna be that the level of the tape and ahve a LOT more sanding to do to bring the putty down to the hull.

basically apply a small amount then with a very straight flat/smooth tool (I like to use a spare piece of sheet styrene) run over the applicaiton troughing it into the seam scribeline what have you. I like to get it as smooth as possible with the tool, but I've see others get very good results leaving a lot more on than I do and sanding down.

I think I'd scribe a line onto some scrap and practice a bit. you don't need a lot of putty to fill a small line...

Jedi Dade

 

[Rahn420]

first - and this is good advice for just about everything... try it on something you don't care about first.

That would be that saucer part.

That part was warped and I have a replacement.

I can go wild and not be worried.

Thanks for the info.

 

[PHArchivist]

Dude just use Elmer's Wood Filler...

BTW what's the deal with the grid lines? Not supposed to be there? Then why did PL put them there?

 

[Rahn420]

BTW what's the deal with the grid lines? Not supposed to be there? Then why did PL put them there?

Shhhh... you wanna start a war.

There has been a heated debate over the lines ever since PL put them there.

In short:

On the original 11 foot filming model there was a grid. The physical surface itself was smooth with the grid drawn on with a pencil. It was hardly (if ever) even noticeable on the screen.

Also, if you consider a pencil line on a 11 foot model and scale that down to a 32" model, it would be barely visible.

PL put it there to add detail for an idealized rendition of the "real" Enterprise. Also figuring that it would be easier for a modeler to fill than for one to add. And that's... OK.

It's OK for some, not for others. It's a matter of preference.

My preference is smooth. So, I'm opting to fill it.

I would have even liked the lines if there had also been lines on other areas of the ship. I just don't care for them concentrated solely on the saucer.

Some renditions, including the current paint job on the original model in the Smithsonian, depict lines around the lower hull and nacelles, as well.

Had those lines been included, I would leave them.

 

[PHArchivist]

Rock solid answer - thanks...

 

[Rahn420]

Well, I got in some 3mm LEDs to try to light the Shuttle Bay. At .20 each, I got 20. I've given myself plenty of room to screw them up, lol.

3mm must be a loose term, because they don’t fit in the holes like the original kit LEDs did. I’ll need to slightly enlarge the holes.

I did take a shot at soldering one. It is my first attempt at soldering.

For now, all I have on hand is solder paste. I have some low melt solder coming.

Not the cleanest job, but it lights. I didn’t melt it or short it out.

I followed TrekFX’s suggestion. I looped the wire around the leads, put a dab of paste on it, touched it with the iron to melt and clipped off the leads.

I want to still try for a lower profile, but it’s getting close.

No matter how close I get, I will probably still have to grind out a little of the interior side of the Secondary Hull.