Hello,
I've been working to make a full metal version of the Orgus Din saber. It's fairly close to the version seen in the game. But with some realism modifications and design changes to make it install able. Here is a basic story of how it was crafted with progress shots to go with it!
First step, was creating a 3D model of each of the parts, this took a long time and of course was an iterative process. Each prototype was 3D printed, made with various wood-fill filaments and metal fill to get as close to the general look as possible.
Next was trying to work out the best way to machine each part. I live in Australia and I wanted to have as much of the saber made locally as possible. This was a challenge, as manufacturing in this country is almost non existent at the moment.
So I started with the most detailed and complex part to machine. I knew if I could get this done, the rest of the project should work. See what I call, the yellow jewel bezel. Named basically by the fact that it holds the yellow jewel. This piece was machined with a 5 Axis CNC Mill. It was not cheap, but definitely came out great.
From here, I found a local machinist that was a pleasure to work with. His many ideas helped the project move forward with impressive results. Watching an idea I had, that was then visible in CAD and then 3D printed was now coming a live in full metal.
The next challenge, was the Shroud. This is obviously the most beautiful and iconic part of this saber. I was torn, as the original EFX version was a cast iron piece. It looked great, but was very brittle. Speaking with an ex bio-ware employee, a lot of the EFX sabers received had the shrouds broken on initial delivery. So I knew, there was some room here for improvement. My first design, although fairly true to the original design and feel, was significantly smaller in scale. I had printed a few samples and even had a machined sample made, before I had realized this and so you can see some pictures of my original shroud (without the detail) versus the bigger shroud. You can also see the larger machined sample.
I was happy with the shroud, but I needed to work out a good way to get the pattern done. I was thinking engraving, or again a 5 axis CNC mill. But this was going to be very expensive, and potentially not give the result I was now hunting for. I then had the idea, of getting it acid etched. This quickly lead to me learning adobe illustrator so I could design the pattern in a way to make an acid resist mask. After some test acid etching at home, I realized, it was going to be far better for the project to get a professional.
Alas, the final shroud was born. This is where the project became real for me, in my opinion, it looked fantastic!
The next challenge, was the wood. I at first was adamant that the wooden sections (emitter choke, and main base handle) had to be real wood. But after many, many calls, with many local wood working shops. I discovered that this kind of multi axis wood machining work was out side the capability of them all. Then came the question of durability, if I was going to thread the parts, would threads in the wood work? They could, but when mating to aluminium threads, I realized that they would not last long. Do I create a metal threaded insert? But then I loose internal space for electronics installations. So I first flirted with the idea of a textured vinyl wrap. They looked good, but again the question of durability was lingering in my head.
Here is a picture of a vinyl wrap test on a 3D printed choke section.
I was going to move forward with this option, until my machinist suggested I give hydrographics a go. After I got some machined samples of the 'wooden' sections I took the parts to a professional hydrodipper.
Here are the results:
Safe to say, hydrgraphics was the way for me!
The next step, in parallel, whilst my machinist was working on creating all the parts. Was to work out a way to do the engraved floral type pattern on the main wood section as well as how I will achieve the detail that is visible in the cut-out in the main handle section.
I developed a mylar stencil, that can be applied on top of the hydrodipped finish and painted around.Here is the stencil.
The internal detail visible from the cut-out? Well, I designed a chassis to hold all my electronics for the finished saber. I realized, I can use the chassis to present this detail. You can see the painted foil pattern and a sample of the internal work in the prototype below.
The project is almost done now! All that is left is getting the remaining machined parts and putting it all together.
Alright, I'm still not 100% finished. I'm some parts re-done, I need to add the brass power pins into the power pin piece. The translucent greeblies, are FDM 3D printed samples, I'm in the process of making resin versions. Mind you, the orange piece also acts as a switch cap. But here is what it looks like right now.
The whole saber is threaded together, and was designed with FX install in mind. The pommel is vented at the rear and on the sides, for sound. Overall, I'm very happy with how it has turned out.
I hope you enjoyed my build log/story!
I've been working to make a full metal version of the Orgus Din saber. It's fairly close to the version seen in the game. But with some realism modifications and design changes to make it install able. Here is a basic story of how it was crafted with progress shots to go with it!
First step, was creating a 3D model of each of the parts, this took a long time and of course was an iterative process. Each prototype was 3D printed, made with various wood-fill filaments and metal fill to get as close to the general look as possible.
Next was trying to work out the best way to machine each part. I live in Australia and I wanted to have as much of the saber made locally as possible. This was a challenge, as manufacturing in this country is almost non existent at the moment.
So I started with the most detailed and complex part to machine. I knew if I could get this done, the rest of the project should work. See what I call, the yellow jewel bezel. Named basically by the fact that it holds the yellow jewel. This piece was machined with a 5 Axis CNC Mill. It was not cheap, but definitely came out great.
From here, I found a local machinist that was a pleasure to work with. His many ideas helped the project move forward with impressive results. Watching an idea I had, that was then visible in CAD and then 3D printed was now coming a live in full metal.
The next challenge, was the Shroud. This is obviously the most beautiful and iconic part of this saber. I was torn, as the original EFX version was a cast iron piece. It looked great, but was very brittle. Speaking with an ex bio-ware employee, a lot of the EFX sabers received had the shrouds broken on initial delivery. So I knew, there was some room here for improvement. My first design, although fairly true to the original design and feel, was significantly smaller in scale. I had printed a few samples and even had a machined sample made, before I had realized this and so you can see some pictures of my original shroud (without the detail) versus the bigger shroud. You can also see the larger machined sample.
I was happy with the shroud, but I needed to work out a good way to get the pattern done. I was thinking engraving, or again a 5 axis CNC mill. But this was going to be very expensive, and potentially not give the result I was now hunting for. I then had the idea, of getting it acid etched. This quickly lead to me learning adobe illustrator so I could design the pattern in a way to make an acid resist mask. After some test acid etching at home, I realized, it was going to be far better for the project to get a professional.
Alas, the final shroud was born. This is where the project became real for me, in my opinion, it looked fantastic!
The next challenge, was the wood. I at first was adamant that the wooden sections (emitter choke, and main base handle) had to be real wood. But after many, many calls, with many local wood working shops. I discovered that this kind of multi axis wood machining work was out side the capability of them all. Then came the question of durability, if I was going to thread the parts, would threads in the wood work? They could, but when mating to aluminium threads, I realized that they would not last long. Do I create a metal threaded insert? But then I loose internal space for electronics installations. So I first flirted with the idea of a textured vinyl wrap. They looked good, but again the question of durability was lingering in my head.
Here is a picture of a vinyl wrap test on a 3D printed choke section.
I was going to move forward with this option, until my machinist suggested I give hydrographics a go. After I got some machined samples of the 'wooden' sections I took the parts to a professional hydrodipper.
Here are the results:
Safe to say, hydrgraphics was the way for me!
The next step, in parallel, whilst my machinist was working on creating all the parts. Was to work out a way to do the engraved floral type pattern on the main wood section as well as how I will achieve the detail that is visible in the cut-out in the main handle section.
I developed a mylar stencil, that can be applied on top of the hydrodipped finish and painted around.Here is the stencil.
The internal detail visible from the cut-out? Well, I designed a chassis to hold all my electronics for the finished saber. I realized, I can use the chassis to present this detail. You can see the painted foil pattern and a sample of the internal work in the prototype below.
The project is almost done now! All that is left is getting the remaining machined parts and putting it all together.
Alright, I'm still not 100% finished. I'm some parts re-done, I need to add the brass power pins into the power pin piece. The translucent greeblies, are FDM 3D printed samples, I'm in the process of making resin versions. Mind you, the orange piece also acts as a switch cap. But here is what it looks like right now.
The whole saber is threaded together, and was designed with FX install in mind. The pommel is vented at the rear and on the sides, for sound. Overall, I'm very happy with how it has turned out.
I hope you enjoyed my build log/story!
