Making Helmet Copies?

Blue Leader

Sr Member
Greetings,

I hope that this is the correct place to put this thread. I really couldn't figure out exactly where this should go, so my apologies if it should be somewhere else.

For around six months plus I've been working on a B-wing pilot helmet from "Star Wars: Episode VI - Return of the Jedi", and I've been trying hard to make it as accurate as possible. Being an amateur model-maker in every since of the word this wasn't easy and I still don't know a whole lot about the process.
Even so I've managed to finish the helmet, but because it's made out of PaperClay it is rather heavy (and somewhat fragile). I would really like to make some copies of this thing, some lighter copies, so that I always have a spare if anything happens to one. Heh, if the only helmet I had broke I would cry.

But I'm just not sure how I could make copies of this. I'm a member of the Rebel Legion, and through my local base a member offered to let me use their vacuum forming table to try to make some copies of it, but neither of us are too sure that it will even work because of its shape and all of the small details in it. Not to mention that I'd have to cut it up into at least three pieces, which I'd rather not to if at all possible (though it's not the end of the world if I do).

So I've been racking my brain trying to think of some ways to make some lightweight, fairly durable copies. It needs to be durable enough because I'll be wearing this fairly often to conventions, parades, charity troops, and things like that. I know I probably wont get anything as strong as plastic, and that's fine, as long as it's strong enough not to crush too easily.
I've only had one idea so far, and I'm not even sure if it would work. The idea I had was to put paper mache or plaster of Paris around the outside only of my clay helmet and let it dry. I could pop that mache/plaster off the helmet and hopefully I'd have a hollow shell. I would probably have to spray the clay helmet itself with something so that mache/plaster wouldn't stick. Not sure what.
Once I had the shell I could spray it over with a few coats of a spray resin to (hopefully) harden it up, make it a little stronger and protect it from the weather. I could sand it smooth with a fine grain of sand paper if needed.
I know that there's also a fiberglass resin I could use instead of the spray resin, but I know nothing about it, so I wouldn't even know what to do with that. Heh.
Of course I know nothing about the spray resin, either....
But as I said I'm not even sure if this process would work.

If anyone has any ideas of some way I could make some copies of this thing, that I (as an amateur) could do, that would be wonderful. As I said, it would need to be somewhat durable because it would be worn at lot, and not too extremely heavy because it needs to be able to stay on my head, which with the shape of this thing isn't an easy task. Though I can always figure something out for that-- that's the least of my worries. And, preferably, it wouldn't be anything too extremely expensive, like around $120 or less if at all possible.

If it helps any here are some pictures of the helmet. Note that there are a few pieces taped onto the back and top which I only put on for the picture to show off to my fellow Rebel Legioners. These pieces wont be molded into the actual copies (how ever I make the copies) but instead will be made as separate pieces from resin and glued on later.

bwingPilot_helmet_may19-2011-6.jpg

bwingPilot_helmet_may19-2011-7.jpg

bwingPilot_helmet_may19-2011-8.jpg

bwingPilot_helmet_may19-2011-9.jpg

bwingPilot_helmet_may19-2011-10.jpg

bwingPilot_helmet_may19-2011-9.jpg


Again, any ideas would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
 
Last edited:
Dude nice work, some wip might be nice.

I am an amateur too, I have chosen to go down the route of rtv silicone casting and slush casting w pyurethan resin. Alternatively u could gel coat and fibgreglassing it. Loads of sw builders in the us who could be a great help :)
 
Thanks. :)
I have a bunch of WIP pictures on my Cosplay.com page and on Photobucket, but they're mixed up with one of my hold helmets so they're not very organized. I do have a WIP thread on the Rebel Legion...
Rebel Legion :: View topic - B-Wing Pilot Outfit & Helmet V2 (Lots of Images)

Though I've evened things out a little bit more on the helmet since the pictures above. Made a few things a little smoother, a little straighter...

As for your suggestion, honestly, I have no idea what most of the things you said are, or how to use them. I'm pretty much completely new to this stuff. Heh heh...
 
No worries mate, if u really are at step one, drop by smooth-on website, lots of nice vids there to talk you through the process. I am happy to talk u through it, even the way to mold that open ring!

Pming u my email. Btw I am akso RL if u rather I post on thete
 
Alrighty. I got your PM and replied to it. Forgot to give you my E-mail though...

Is what you're thinking of something like this person in the RL did with a helmet he made?
Rebel Legion :: View topic - a-wing bucket
He made a clay mold, covered it in something, and poured resin into it... Or something like that. I don't entirely understand the process myself. Whatever he did it sounded rather expensive. :lol
 
It's actually not that expensive to make a RTV Mold and then use urathane resin in the mold. You want to get a mold rubber, not latex mold builder that is sold at some craft stores, I would suggest something with a 30A Shore hardness rubber, and you'll probably need a half gallon kit of rubber maybe if anything you have left over rubber for other items. It's pretty much a 10:1 mix with 10 being rubber and the 1 being the catalyst. So 10 ounces of rubber liquid and 1 ounce of catalyst. Then once you have enough coats of rubber brushed on the master, you can put registration keys on the rubber then make your figerglass mother mold or you can also use fiberglass cloth and urathane resin or I've heard of a lot of people making the mother mold with plaster or shell shock which is on the Smooth-On website. Then you can begin making copies with urathane resin such as Smoothcast resin by slushcasting it in the mold. I usualy give it 2 hours then demold the casting.
 
It's actually not that expensive to make a RTV Mold and then use urathane resin in the mold. You want to get a mold rubber, not latex mold builder that is sold at some craft stores, I would suggest something with a 30A Shore hardness rubber, and you'll probably need a half gallon kit of rubber maybe if anything you have left over rubber for other items. It's pretty much a 10:1 mix with 10 being rubber and the 1 being the catalyst. So 10 ounces of rubber liquid and 1 ounce of catalyst. Then once you have enough coats of rubber brushed on the master, you can put registration keys on the rubber then make your figerglass mother mold or you can also use fiberglass cloth and urathane resin or I've heard of a lot of people making the mother mold with plaster or shell shock which is on the Smooth-On website. Then you can begin making copies with urathane resin such as Smoothcast resin by slushcasting it in the mold. I usualy give it 2 hours then demold the casting.

What's an RTV mold?

I think I get the gist of your suggestion for the most part, though there are a few things I'm still not sure about (like what "registration keys" are). Do you happen to know where I can get some of the materials you mentioned, or what kind of stores might sell them?
I know there's the Smooth-On website, but are there any offline stores that might have them, that you can think of?
 
Sorry for the late reply. Ugh, college finals are horrid.
But thank you for the information. I'll take a look.

I completely forgot that there was a TAP Plastics not too far away. Which was stupid because I've been in there a couple times, I can't believe I forgot about it. Heh.
 
RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanising rubber, aka silicone rubber. I'm not sure of prices in the US, here in Australia it costs around $230-$250 for a 5kg kit. It's a thick gloppy liquid slop, like molasses only more so. You mix the catalyst into it, pour it (or paint it) around your object, and over a few hours or days it sets into solid rubber. This is your mould. When I say 'paint' it, you can do this if you use a thixotropic style of silicone or an additive to make it thixotropic (i.e. "sticky"). You can also add extra catalyst to get somewhat the same effect. (If you use a pouring type without building a box to hold it around your helmet, the stuff will just slide off and make a mess all over your floor.)

If you are painting thixo-style silicone you will want to put several layers on to get a sufficiently thick mould. You have to wait for each layer to set - a few hours to a couple of days - before you apply the next. When done you then make a "mother mould" or "mould jacket" in fibreglass, or plaster can work for smaller objects. Basically you encase the whole melty-looking mess you've just made in a jacket that will hold the flexible rubber in the right shape while you're using the mould. Depending on the shape of your object you may want to make either the rubber skin or the fibreglass jacket, or both, in more than one part. This may entail special measures to keep the parts from sticking to one another as you're making them, and creating flanges then drilling bolt holes through them on the fibreglass jacket so that your parts can be put back together properly.

Registration keys are where you ensure the rubber has lumps or hollows in it that will make the rubber skin hold to the fibreglass mould jacket. They "register" it into the right shape and hold it in place.

Once you've done all this you peel your mould jacket off the mould, peel the mould off your helmet, put the rubber back into the fibreglass and you're ready to make your final pieces using urethane resin ("slushcasting") or fibreglass, which is a tiny bit more technical but nothing you can't easily teach yourself.

Read the online tutorials and you will get a lot more info, with diagrams. :thumbsup
 
Back
Top