Making a mold, and casting a reversed/opposite version?

I think she's talking layers like actual planer slices. A millimeter thick or so. Release agent between each until the whole thing is filled. Then stack the slices in reverse order and it should be a rough mirror image of the inside of the mould. One would have to then do cleanup and re-sculpting of the details on that side.

Between that and the point gauge/curve template method described above that, I imagine they'd both take about as long and ultimately come down to what technique one feels more comfortable with.
 
OK,
I could see how in theory that idea might seem sound.
However all layers would need to remain perfectly flat when removed. Each layer will now have any edge angle reversed, giving an irregular /off-set stepped edge on your re-stacked layers. Not to mention the surface tension of the casting material would give you a upward lip, on the outer edges of each pour, which would then be offset when reversed, making your surface even more irregular.
You need to also make sure each layer is re-stacked on-center with the opposite side, and you have to make sure you do not clock any of the layers.

Here is an example with a simple form, and using the computer to make sure each re-staked layer is perfectly centered with it's mate on the original side.
Mirror-layers.jpg

While the result, (If everything went perfectly, which I seriously doubt) would mirror the side, the resulting surface would be such a disaster to clean up and make correct, it would be far faster to just sculpt the opposite side with reference points.
 
I am just curious..is there any cheap/effective method for taking, for this case a helmet, and doing this?

I've heard of it being done before, where trying to get almost perfect symetry, they will take one side/half of the helmet, mold it, and end up with a reveresed version of it, so that they can put the two together, and mold it as one single piece.

I am sculpting my own helmet, and I am having some issues of symetry..I mean I can get it close to matching the finnished side, but I am just curious if this is possible without the aid of computer operated machinery.

Perfect example, is that on Bobmaker's site, he showed how he made a reversed jango chest armor piece, but I think that would be simpler, because of the lack of details..

Thanks!
I'm not going to read down. The solution is simple. I will call it contour gauging. Contour left side gauges 1.2.3.4.5.6 x how ever many are made or taken. And transfer to the right side in reverse order 6.5.4.3.2.1 ( L 6.5.4.3.2.1 center 1.2.3.4.5.6 R) leftside gauge 1 now is transferred to same position right side as 1. Like a piece of paper has two sides use both.
 
I don’t know about helmet or car part. But if you want to make on opposing side for something small, like a 3” fish mold that you only have one side, then it’s not hard. You take your side you have and do a silicone release spray. Let dry. Then use a thin amount of glue from a glue gun. I use an automatic (still much cheaper than a reg. one). Glue Needs to be thin enough but not so thin that it would break. Once it’s solid peel it off then push it inside out, and Wala you have an opposing side. Please do this and something small like a little mold so you can see if it would work on something larger scale but that’s what I do. Hope I’ve helped a little bit because I’ve certainly made lots and lots of mistakes in my past
 

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