Make mold of 600 piece model kit?

[TheScratcher]

Hi everyone,

I bought my very first scale model kit.
(1/100 Scale Metal Gear Rex Model Kit)
and wondered if it is possible to mold and recast the whole thing.
Or would it be cheaper to just buy the set a couple of times?
(because of shipping and custom costs it cost me 140 US Dollars, 130 €)

I tried to look up kit mold making but only ever found builders who copied
one piece at a time. And even then, many complained about how expensive
it all is (material for mold and casting resin)

I thought of re-casting the kit for 3 reasons.
1. Since this is my first ever model kit - and apparently not a starter one,
I am afraid to break parts or make mistakes and therefor waste the whole 140,- build
2. I would love to try and create a "damaged version" if I can tweak some parts
3. well I am seriously scared I will *** it all up....

 

[TazMan2000]

I have a better and less expensive idea. Buy some cheaper kits and try them before risking your skills on an expensive kit.

TazMan2000

 

[TheScratcher]

I have a better and less expensive idea. Buy some cheaper kits and try them before risking your skills on an expensive kit.

TazMan2000

That.... is actually not a bad idea!
Only problem is I dont care about cars, ships and tanks.
Hell, I dont even like Mech.
This thing I bought is pretty much the only kit I care about.

Other than that....actually a good idea Sir

 

[steven giunta]

Your probly gonna spend more money buying all the stuff needed to cast then it would cost to buy another model or two. If you were planning to stay in this hobby for a long time and had a list of models you want to build and or customize then it might be worth it in the long run to learn how to cast. But if this is the only model you want the. Your better of buying a few more of them.if your worried about screwing up a part maybe get in touch with a few guys who can cast and pay them to do a replacemeant part.

 

[TazMan2000]

That.... is actually not a bad idea!
Only problem is I dont care about cars, ships and tanks.
Hell, I dont even like Mech.
This thing I bought is pretty much the only kit I care about.

Other than that....actually a good idea Sir

What about having someone build it for you? I'm sure there are some skilled model builders nearby that would do this kit proud with sanding/filling and a custom paint job to your liking. Perhaps even to mount it onto a diorama base. I've never commissioned a build so I have no idea what a fair price would be, but I'm sure some members here would give you a ballpark figure.

TazMan2000

 

[Thomas Guycott]

Gonna agree with Taz's advice.

If you're worried about your skill level and are actually interested in the model-building hobby, then start refining those skills with less complex, cheeper kits and work your way up. If you don't care about cars or planes or mecha, it doesn't really matter: experience is experience.

But if all you care about is having Metal Gear Rex to look cool on the shelf, then a build commission is probably the route you want to go.

 

[rbeach84]

Did a quick search and see there are collectiables for this subject, which I assume are aimed at those wanting a shelf trophy.

As far as the question re: cost, molding and casting from resin an entire kit would be very expensive in material and time and the result, assuming you don't have any experience and any specialized tools (such as a vacuum pump for deaerating thre resin or a pressure pot to collapse the gas bubbles...) would be rather less than satisfactory. You'd likely be less frustrated building a resin copy 'recast' without mastery of the process due to shrinkage effects which would impact the high tolerances used in the kit (in short, the parts fit would be degraded in the copy.)
Given this, I'd recommend purchase of original kits for building and/or follow the advise of developing your modeling skills by working up some less expensive and (for you) subjects with less personal investment (so making mistakes won't "hurt".)

This boils down to your personal choices and goals. If you don't have any real motivation or desire to take up modeling as a hobby and just want a nice replica, then as already noted, you should follow a different strategy than if you also want to have the satisfaction of making it yourself.

I can say having done a commission build myself, the cost is not inconsiderable unless the builder "sells" their effort extremely cheaply. Just throwing out an example, a single 12 inch long fighter jet model might take roughly 30-40 hours to build. At a hourly rate of $20 dollars, reasonable for a highly skilled craftsman (if not greater), you have 600 to 800 dollars, independent of materials (consumables such as paint, glue, etc.) which might run another $20, plus the cost of the kit. Of course, most hobbyist modelers building for someone don't ask for such compensation because there are a great many variables involved including the modeler's own personal motivations, their skill and experience, the sophistication and features required, etc. But you get the idea.

I hope this - along with the advice from other members - helps you to decide what to do. I also hope you might choose to go the build it yourself route since you may find you enjoy the hobby in and of itself. However, like any craft, you must start 'at the beginning' and not jump right into the deep end. Making a $400 Bandai "Perfect Grade" Millennium Falcon your very first model would definitely be a bad idea...
;^)
Regards, Robert

 

[Richard Baker]

I would go with the advice to start off with some practice builds of other kits first. Find some cheaper Mecha subjects and get used to how they go together and how to give them the detail and weathering you wish to do with your grail kit. When you get more comfortable with the process then pull out your dream kit and have some fun!

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

What I did, and do, both originally to build up my skills and more recently to test new (to me) brushes or paints or glues or fillers or what have you... I go to one or another of my local hobby shops and get a couple things they have on clearance. Then I just build them for the practice. Some get tossed into the bitz box for future cannibalizing. Others get thrown away. Some get claimed by friends who like them. *shrug*

Read articles and tutorials, watch videos, get senses of various approaches for highlighting, shading, weathering, "scale color", depicting damage... Ink washes, pastel powders, do-it-yourself or off-the-shelf environmental applications (water, mud, sand, grass, rust, etc.)... When to go for decals, when to go for masking and painting...

There are techniques I swear by, and techniques I swear at. Some that are used by professional and award-winning model and miniature painters I feel make the subject look faker than if they'd toned things down a little. Like, some people are brilliant at using different colors of paint to simulate a reflective metal surface. Me, I'd rather just make the best reflective metal surface I can. There's a lot out there to winnow through. You can get the beginning of a sense of what might work for you and what might not by seeing what others have done...

...But definitely get some cheap subjects you don't care about to practice them on. Neither getting a second Rex, nor recasting the one, would be a recommended approach. In the former case, you'd have a second hard-to-get, expensive model you didn't want to mess up. In the latter, you could spend years accumulating the materials and developing the skills -- at even greater cost -- to get a decent enough replica of the purchased kit to make practicing on it worthwhile.

As with many new skill sets, the hardest part is pushing past the fear of the unknown -- the fear of screwing up -- and just getting started. You'll find, as you practice on those clearance throwaways, that you can achieve a lot with only a few surprisingly simple techniques and tricks. The rest is just honing the hand-eye-brain triangle to get a physical representation of what's in your head. A lot of people get frustrated and throw up their hands, exclaiming that it doesn't look right. Excellent! If o e can see that, then one can point out where and how it doesn't look like the thing, and then one can address those things. Like Professor Higgens and Eliza in Pygmalion.

 

[clonesix]

Hi Scratcher, I wanted to tackle the first question and say Yes, it is possible, but not practical. The molding of all those pieces would be a nightmare in time and money. I could answer better if there were a photo of the kit.

suggestion 1: as stated above, hire a builder. (not easy. be careful)
suggestion 2: buy second model (after building and completing first) for damaged version.
suggestion3: buy 2nd model and recast only a few parts to be damaged

and post photo of kit pieces on tree.

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

So I've taken a closer look at the Rex (only ever had a vague awareness of it, not actually having played any MG games). There are several main paint schemes I see, and all look very easily do-able with basic techniques. I don't know which you're after. There doesn't seem to be much damage or weathering. So clean panels, a little highlighting/shading, the contrasting details, and maybe a little dirt or grime in appropriate spots for added realism. A couple of clearanced tank kits would be good for learning everything you need for painting.

Assembly is another matter and different people have different approaches. I do subassemblies. I clean up pieces and get things put together up to the point that the next step would make something hard to paint. A for-instance, in mech terms, would be that I'll put the feet together, clean up seam lines, add any missing detailing or scribed lines, paint and weather... Then the same with the upper legs (not getting into whether they are already attached to the body at that point or not)... Then I'd paint the insides of the lower legs where the upper legs and feet fit in, where it would be visible, assemble all of that together, do the same cleanup as on the other subassemblies, mask off above and below to prevent overspray (low-tack masking tape exists for exactly this), and paint the lower leg.

Some people find such an approach tedious or infuriating. They want to do all the assembly, then all the painting, then all the decals. And they have techniques for doing so. Me, I find the subassembly approach meditative, and I prefer the control I have over each portion of the subject, and being able to do hyperfocused delves. Like... Superdetailing a Macross Valkyrie cockpit -- added details, paint apps, decals, topcoats... Then it's done and maybe I won't touch the model again for months, and I won't have lost my momentum, because the specific portion I was working on is done, and I can tackle the next subassembly as its own thing.

Which is probably the most important takeaway from all of this -- from me and the others who have posted: It's okay to take your time. Time to learn the techniques on waster kits. Time to make sure each step of construction isn't rushed. Dry-fit parts. Be mindful of impatience. Don't shrug and say "good enough". Measure three times and be conservative. You can always remove more material, but it's a lot harder to add back on. If you don't have the right tool or adhesive or paint for the next step, wait until you do. Most of th eproblems people run into that "ruin" kits are from impatience and rushing.

 

[rbeach84]

Scale Model Workshop by Paul Budzik
Excellent tutorials covering wide range of subjects.
Regards, Robert