Magic of Myth ( MoM ) Luke RotJ Hero ( cave build ) lightsaber research, images, reference, & collaborative model builder's discussion.

[mindaramblin]

Thanks for that! We’re really honing in.
Just went through and determined the issue knullzero was seeing with the arrow spacing and have that essentially figured out.
Not just yet on the official interest thread although we are noting numbers of those who have expressed interest.
Discussions about logistics are still in the works and: as far as were concerned we’d rather finish the model development and flesh out logistics before announcing the run.

Okay great! I’m going to send you a PM is that’s okay, BRRogers?

 

[Dann]

I should also note the box has different bevels on each side, it's not symmetrical

or maybe it wasnt centered when they cut out the curve

noticed that on both casts I have

I never noticed that, either! Thanks for mentioning that, Tom!

 

[thd9791]

Glad to help! I'll take a picture when I'm home from work

 

[thd9791]

My castings are really bad. First is poor quality but you can still understand the details

Second is so shrunk the basic shapes are exaggerated

 

[thd9791]

Arrow plate is also flush. Box isn’t centered and the bevels seem to be cut separately, like they were finishing off the bottom edge in relation to where it already sat uncentered.

 

[mrwax]

I'm not totally sure it DOES sit flush.


EDIT: Now that I've bugged out my eyeballs some more, I'm beginning to think you're right, Tom. Though I'm still not one hundred percent sure, I'm beginning to lean that way. The bottom edge bevel certainly appears less prominent from that front corner.View attachment 1037959View attachment 1037960View attachment 1037961View attachment 1037962

Another question that I'm not sure has ever been definitively answered (at least I don't recall seeing any pics or reading anything about it) is whether a small section of the main box was cut away underneath/behind the plate. If so, how large is the cutout, and does it extend/reach up to the box lid, leaving only the cover plate for the rails to rest on?

To my eyes, these pictures show that the plate does extend to the top of the box right under the rails. The B&W shot is the clearest, but you can see it in all of them. I've done some modifications to my Nicksdad saber control box (inspired by yours) and replaced the plate with one that's definitely too thin, but does extend to the top. I'll try to remember to snap a couple pictures after work today.

I suspect the plate isn't quite flush with the box's surface, but it does look pretty close. I'll comb through my pictures again after work, but I don't have any reference that wasn't already posted here so I don't think I'll find anything definitive.

 

[el toro]

I’ve attached photos of the resin cast from the screen used lightsaber that I bought from Teecrooz (which is originally from Brundlefly). It looks like the plate is flush. Also, as an earlier point, I can’t see any marking for that circular indent/scratch/glue drop on the side of the emitter that everyone was discussing a few pages earlier.
Sorry not the best photos but I can take another look later today or this week.

 

[Halliwax]

I’ve attached photos of the resin cast from the screen used lightsaber that I bought from Teecrooz (which is originally from Brundlefly). It looks like the plate is flush. Also, as an earlier point, I can’t see any marking for that circular indent/scratch/glue drop on the side of the emitter that everyone was discussing a few pages earlier.
Sorry not the best photos but I can take another look later today or this week.

Does your emitter have a dimple on the side?

 

[BRRogers]

I’ve attached photos of the resin cast from the screen used lightsaber that I bought from Teecrooz (which is originally from Brundlefly). It looks like the plate is flush. Also, as an earlier point, I can’t see any marking for that circular indent/scratch/glue drop on the side of the emitter that everyone was discussing a few pages earlier.
Sorry not the best photos but I can take another look later today or this week.

Thanks for sharing those. Teecrooz was telling me about how clean that casting was compared to the one he kept. I was curious to see more photos of it.

 

[el toro]

This one? No.

Does your emitter have a dimple on the side?

 

[Halliwax]

This one? No.

Yes! Sorry I didn’t have a pic at the time for reference

 

[thd9791]

incredible cast, thanks for sharing. Looking at the back of the control box, different bevels on each side down near the saber body?

 

[BRRogers]

Does your emitter have a dimple on the side?

It’s worth it to note again that, based on the information of the castings some of the details are lost. Aside from viewing the original or pictures of the originals the castings are really only significant due to the lineage, and are thus useful for only a certain amount of reference and overall detail.
Accounting for shrinkage, accounting for warping, accounting even for undercuts not filling during molding , or clay dams being made to aid in mold release (likely the reason the groove under the buttons is filled or the channel under the card in all the 2nd generation + castings).


I still intend to write a lot of this up in more detail for the first posts but:
Just for an example:
The V grooves are certainly plunged off axis as evidenced by the castings, but shrinkage over the years and generations has made the effect more extreme (like an accordion)
Mathematically counteracting the shrinkage in the grenade arrives at something that (our) 3D model overlays exactly on top of.

I say that to imply there may be dimples:
Despite their absence in the castings.

That Is supported by photo implications (especially under the emitter face).

What we won’t know (unless one of us actually gets to hold and examine the MoM hero) is wether the parts were machined separately and grubbed together, or if those are simply marks of random assortment... or if some of the Yuma parts were cast in aluminum from another stunt saber then cleaned up... or any myriad of possibilities.
It’s hard to tell without having it in your hands

incredible cast, thanks for sharing. Looking at the back of the control box, different bevels on each side down near the saber body?

Absolutely yes. The angles are definitely different and the box itself IS offset, exacerbating the depth on the backside.
They probably cut the Yuma box off center then filed or machine it so the base was at least on center before hitting the bevels.

At least that’s what I’ve seen during this process

 

[BRRogers]

See
Thanks again teecrooz

This is one of many (thousands probably haha) of very fast finger scrawlings I’ve given drizzt1234 to convey design problems while we’ve been working on honing in this model

 

[thd9791]

Oh my god. I knew it was offset side to side. The back of the box is slightly shorter than the front, so the depths are different too, you're right.. Thanks for pointing that out, I just assumed it was level

 

[thd9791]

nice silver paint!

 

[mindaramblin]

Holy moly. There are so many things I didn’t know about this saber! This is one of the best threads ever!

 

[Mouse Vader]

Very impressed with your work here. Good going.

 

[BRRogers]

Couple of new control box comparisons.
I did edit the arrow tips a smidge to imply the option to dull /break them to match but, hopefully we’ve nailed the positions and can move foreword.
drizzt1234 Might kill me if this doesn’t hit well

Top left comparison provided from teecrooz ’ casting.

knullzero Please like it haha


Also worth noting that the buttons were modified a bit also and includes the inset ‘bar’ seen in castings and adjusted for what’s visible in the photo reference.

Second note:
The card and rails appears in the photos to be ‘mashed down’ of not loose and varies in many of the shots. Our rail is set in an ideal position but with the current setup you should EASILY be able to make your own rails to be mashed down; matching the photo reference

 

[Verity Cosplay]