Mad Max Fury Road Razor Cola Screaming Skull

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DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull Parts

What do you mean you have no such friends? Your on the rpf! There are plenty of us like that here
Hah! point taken. I meant I know of no one personally.

Anyone want to take a crack at those turnbuckle bodies? I believe they are 1/2" or M10(ish). I believe they are cast and galvanized. Around 7" total length. I can find plenty of turnbuckles of course, but the shape is wrong on the ends.
 

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DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull Parts

Some progress. It might seem like small progress, but this was more frustrating than it ought to have been. I was originally determined to use steel. I could not for the life of me get it to bend and twist around the orbital bone. It was more difficult than I had thought it would be. I used different gauges of sheet steel trying to get the right look to no avail. I even tried to use tin sheet, thinking I could make the bend and twist with that... I finally admitted defeat and found a place that would sell me lead sheet. I bought a piece of 1'x2'x.0165". I think it works. the thickness looks good to me as I scaled it. The color on some test pieces I did also look good. I was able to make the bend and twist. In my first post, I suggested using lead to myself. I should have listened and saved myself the trouble.

Here is a mock up held together with tape.




My plan will be to fasten the band to the bridge of the nose and work my way back, taking up the slack as I go. I should get it to sit very nicely against the skull. The lead is great to work with. It tastes good too. Soft and yummy...

And one more picture showing the ring on the back. I scaled it from another reference picture I have that I haven't uploaded yet. The ring scaled out to 3" O.D. and .25" thick. It is mild steel and was zinc plated, made by Stanley. I sandblasted off the zinc and will patina it to match some pictures I hopefully will be receiving soon. The lead band wraps around the ring and is riveted to itself, holding the ring in place.


If anyone is interested, The metal on the bridge of the nose (not shown here) scales out to 1/16" thick. I made that piece from steel, but I think I will get some thicker lead to use.
 
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PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull Parts

I can already see the end result! Should look real good once you've got it all painted up an assembled.
 

DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull Parts

Any advice on painting the skull to look like the first picture?
 

PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull Parts

I can only imagine what'd I'd do and that would be laying down the base color first and then going over that with multiple passes of several browns, yellows, oranges, black (and maybe greens); stippling and blotting with my assorted collections of sponges and paper towels for pick-up and texture. Then seal in a matte clear coat...

...Of course, that's just how I'd​ do it. There are numerous possibilities for you to explore.
 

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DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull Parts

A very boring photo:


Yes I am slow... I blame my wife and children and take no responsibility for them wasting my important hobby time. Anyway, this is important because those cone head rivets are hard to find. I had to make them at work. I used mild steel. Major diameter .495, minor is .3125 and they are .25 tall. That is what I scaled them to anyhow. I looked everywhere before resorting to making them myself. The dome head rivets are from Mcmaster Carr and are .27 and .33 in diameter respectively. I think that the rivets used on the teeth are a little bigger than the ones used on the straps. I will have to check. Still looking for the proper turnbuckles to no avail and will probably resort to a stand in pair.
 

DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

More pictures featuring terrible lighting!

The jaw bone... Hole will fit a 1/2-13 bolt.


The all important nose bridge plate thing... Made from 1/16 lead sheet, which is harder to chew on than the thinner lead sheet I have for the straps, but it still tastes just as good.


I figure I had better fit everything before I do the final painting so I don't scratch the paint. I excel at breaking things and just all around screwing up.

Oh yeah, I also cut out some slots for the wire on the eyes. I am not sure how big to make the slots due to a lack of reference photos. I talked to a guy who said he had a bunch of pictures, but he has decided to stop replying to my emails. I hate that by the way. Why offer help and then dismiss the whole idea of said help? He is from Australia so I suppose there is a high probability that he has been killed by some sinister animal or perhaps a previously unknown species of poisonous beetle that keeps it poisonous babies in its poisonous pouch because all things in Australia have pouches and are poisonous.
 
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Win7ermute

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

Neat project. How will you display it, are you going to include the blower intake?
 

jec0435

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

Pretty cool project indeed! Going to follow this one and see how you progress! :)
 

DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

Neat project. How will you display it, are you going to include the blower intake?
Blower intake? No, that sounds expensive. I have not thought that far ahead. Maybe with a crankshaft stand or something. Honestly, I probably won't keep it. Open to ideas on displaying though.
 

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Win7ermute

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

Blower intake? No, that sounds expensive. I have not thought that far ahead. Maybe with a crankshaft stand or something. Honestly, I probably won't keep it. Open to ideas on displaying though.
On the vehicle, the rods connecting the mandible to the skull run through the intake of the stacked blowers (superchargers). Just wasn't sure if you were going to recreate that part or not. Obviously you have to stop somewhere. . .
 

DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

Hah! I knew what you meant. It is a Scott superslot injector hat I think. And I am kinda thinking of either a crankshaft spinal column looking thing or maybe a piston rod... Not sure.
 

DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

A little more progress. Trying to fit things up before I paint this thing. So far, I do not believe I have ruined it...

Small rivets added. Drilling the holes was not entirely fun, but it worked.


And the cone head rivet:


So far I am satisfied with my results. After painting the skull, I will weather the metal to match the prop as best I can. Since lead does not rust like steel, I will have to experiment with different methods. As I assemble this, I will pull the metal bands tight and form them to the skull as I go.

Things I still need to do:
(1) Teeth. I have done a couple mock ups, but not happy with result.
(2) Figure out the slot cut for the eye wires. I don't know how big the slot needs to be.
(3) Under the jaw, there is a round tube that is threaded to accept the bolts for the turnbuckles. Haven't begun that yet Nor have I contemplated how to attach it to the skull.
(4) Everything else....

I still need to source those turnbuckles. Not as easy as it looks to match them. Go ahead and try, I dare you. Seriously, help would be appreciated!
Have not found any more good reference photos that show the back side in close detail. Still working on it.
 

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DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

did you check boat hardware type sources for the turn buckles?

did you take a side shot image with your known sizing and then estimate what size turnbuckle it is you are looking for?
look on ebay
Thanks for the tips! And to answer, yes I have. The closest I kind find are Meriman bronze turnbuckles. 1/2-13 seems to scale pretty well. The problem I see with those is the crossbar. I would have to cut that out and then try to blend the "fresh" metal in.
Here is an example:

These are the 7/16" size which are a tad small, but you get the idea. Also, not pictured here is the side profile which bulges out toward the ends. In other words, they are more narrow in the middle. I believe (could be mistaken) that the turnbuckles on the prop are the same width the whole length. Again, more reference pictures would help. And I can still use a stand in pair, but unless I can correct ones, I may go with the merimans as a close enough option. I don't really want to do that, but may have to.
 

Abelugo

Sr Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

you a couple good points there and some direction.
"stand-ins" are a good way to keep the project going while you find a closer item.
 

DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

I have not posted here in quite a while. The reason is because I have stalled on this project. I finally found a couple turnbuckles that are a very close match to the ones used. They will require slight modification. Another problem I am having is the teeth. I can cut and bend the teeth but I cannot perform the radius around the bottom edge without the metal crimping. I think I need new tools.

In the interim I have been working on the Mini-Max. I call it the mini because it uses a modern human skull which is about 2/3 the size of the Neanderthal. So, everything has been scaled down. The conical rivets were not used. Instead I used different dome head rivets and little finish nails. Smaller diameter wire. Turnbuckles from the hardware store. This proved a bit more difficult than I had hoped. The modern human skull does not lend itself well for attaching turnbuckles to it. The Neanderthal should go easier. The space for putting things is a lot bigger anyway. That was my problem with this skull. The turnbuckles just didn’t fit, the way to attach them had to be adjusted. Also, the way they attach makes them finicky. Tightening the top makes the bottom splay out so it is difficult to get the proper balance. I will probably end up epoxying them to get the “stance” I am looking for. I see in the following pictures my jawbone is a bit crooked. That is because my parts are loose. This was a good exercise for me I think.

When will I figure out how to use a camera? I have no idea. They always look awful!

The Mini-Max…

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I will finish this and put together a pipe fitting stand for it and get rid of it I think.
And the real Screaming Skull will continue...
 
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PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

I have not posted here in quite a while. The reason is because I have stalled on this project. I finally found a couple turnbuckles that are a very close match to the ones used. They will require slight modification. Another problem I am having is the teeth. I can cut and bend the teeth but I cannot perform the radius around the bottom edge without the metal crimping. I think I need new tools.
If it's something you think you can live with, you can avoid the crimping by cutting notches where the metal begins to crimp when you initially cut your metal for the teeth. That way, when you work on shaping the radius, the edges of the notch will line up and you can then solder or weld them together, file, and clean that seam. I ran into a similar problem when I was working on my Ripsaw/War Rig skull ornament and to avoid the same headache when I was reworking the piece to get a cleaner finish, I made a template of the final thing I was looking for out of paper and tape first, then cut and laid that out flat on the metal I was working with.

Of course, that's one way. I think if you're really willing to put the work in, you can get the exact result of the actual prop with a planishing hammer and a ball stake.
 
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DeLano80

Well-Known Member
Re: Mad Max Fury Road Screaming Skull

you can avoid the crimping by cutting notches where the metal begins to crimp when you initially cut your metal for the teeth. That way, when you work on shaping the radius, the edges of the notch will line up and you can then solder or weld them together, file, and clean that seam.
Good advice. I did exactly that. Wasn't happy with the result though.
 

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