Luxeon Blades (LED) : Idea's for the "optimum" blade

George L.

George L.

Active Member
Gang,

I've looked around at all the old postings on this subject and decided to open a new thread on the subject to gather more information from fellow Luxeon saber builders. Hopefully this new thread can gather old information and provide data/idea's for all of us using Luxeon's and building the ultimate Luxeon LED blade! :)

Myself : well right now all I have is a 1" cut-down thick walled 36" blade that came with the Graflex Shop Luxeon Graflex Kit. I'm using their 1" aluminum blade holder with Luxeon heat sink. I cut the blade to 36" as Erv from Plecter labs recommended it as "the optimum length". Right now the blade is a standard setup, bright at the hilt and at the tip with the mirror and dim in the middle. The Luxeon is a type III Cyan.

As mentioned, I've read through a lot of previous post. Some are using Corbin type blades, Ultra Saber's "silver look" (fiber optic?), home made with "poly" added to brighten up the center of the blade, different types of "mirrors" at the end of the tube, Erv's magic film, etc.

Also have seen different Luxeon collimator lenses 6 or 10 degrees?

Just looking for new input and idea's that the rest of you Luxeon saber builders have had good luck with. Feel any replys/input will help all of us trying to do the same type of blade setup.

A couple of summary/design points I have found:

o Seems 36" is the optimum length?
o 1" diameter tube gathers the LED light better than a 3/4" one.
o Appears thin walled tubes are brighter than the thick dueling types.
o Special films/tube liners are available, not sure of the "best" type. Corbin, Erv's "magic film", Ultra Sabers, etc.
o Some builders added, along with the main blade liner/film a "poly" or other material to help even out the blade brightness along it's length.
o Some have painted the outside of the blade.
o Some have bead blasted the outside of the blade.
o Some have bead blasted the inside the blade.
o Different types of mirror materials have been used for the blade tip.

Personally, I'm just looking to get the brightest and evenly lit blade setup and not into heavy dueling. So let's comment/reply away! I figure we can all learn from the thread (again).

Thanks in advance!

Cheers...

BTW: Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas!
 
The hyperdyne blades do look the best hands down, but they're still LED's correct? I wonder how they are more durable than the stock MR blades.
 
TheDisturbance said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_grY8XUl22c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=codYLfnus2w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1y5E71XGQo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXOXkcJiw-Q

:eek
Click to expand...

Those videos are great but there are +/- of each type. Erv's or Ultra's sound boards have great sounds and can power a luxIII, K2, and luxV. The Cree and the P4 are very bright. The lux blade in the video is poor in my opinion because different wraps give different results. The Hyperdyne is very expensive. It has the leds in the blade like the MR. Opinions on how well it is to duel with vary but you cannot deny the brightness/sound.

Thanks!

Greg
 
I'm just pissed that MR won't be doing any more FX sabers. I was really hoping they would get around to the Obi Wan TPM or Qui-Gon sabers.
 
George L. said:
Gang,

I've looked around at all the old postings on this subject and decided to open a new thread on the subject to gather more information from fellow Luxeon saber builders. Hopefully this new thread can gather old information and provide data/idea's for all of us using Luxeon's and building the ultimate Luxeon LED blade! :)

Myself : well right now all I have is a 1" cut-down thick walled 36" blade that came with the Graflex Shop Luxeon Graflex Kit. I'm using their 1" aluminum blade holder with Luxeon heat sink. I cut the blade to 36" as Erv from Plecter labs recommended it as "the optimum length". Right now the blade is a standard setup, bright at the hilt and at the tip with the mirror and dim in the middle. The Luxeon is a type III Cyan.

As mentioned, I've read through a lot of previous post. Some are using Corbin type blades, Ultra Saber's "silver look" (fiber optic?), home made with "poly" added to brighten up the center of the blade, different types of "mirrors" at the end of the tube, Erv's magic film, etc.

Also have seen different Luxeon collimator lenses 6 or 10 degrees?

Just looking for new input and idea's that the rest of you Luxeon saber builders have had good luck with. Feel any replys/input will help all of us trying to do the same type of blade setup.

A couple of summary/design points I have found:

o Seems 36" is the optimum length?
o 1" diameter tube gathers the LED light better than a 3/4" one.
o Appears thin walled tubes are brighter than the thick dueling types.
o Special films/tube liners are available, not sure of the "best" type. Corbin, Erv's "magic film", Ultra Sabers, etc.
o Some builders added, along with the main blade liner/film a "poly" or other material to help even out the blade brightness along it's length.
o Some have painted the outside of the blade.
o Some have bead blasted the outside of the blade.
o Some have bead blasted the inside the blade.
o Different types of mirror materials have been used for the blade tip.

Personally, I'm just looking to get the brightest and evenly lit blade setup and not into heavy dueling. So let's comment/reply away! I figure we can all learn from the thread (again).

Thanks in advance!

Cheers...

BTW: Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas!
Click to expand...

Sorry for taking the thread off subject. Here are my opinions.

o Seems 36" is the optimum length? This varies per individual. You loose roughly 2 inches when installed in saber. Shorter blades for spinning and longer blades to match the movies. I am using short blades for my Maul.

o 1" diameter tube gathers the LED light better than a 3/4" one. I use a 1" on my conversions. 1" is kinda the standard. 3/4" is standard for EL or Parks conversions.

o Appears thin walled tubes are brighter than the thick dueling types. All depends on the wrap. Thin blades are usually show blades. I have made very bright thick blades.

o Special films/tube liners are available, not sure of the "best" type. Corbin, Erv's "magic film", Ultra Sabers, etc. Corbin's film is great for extension and retraction when used with drivers. Erv's magic film is basically the same. Ultra use a lot of poly (8 feet?) The best in my opinion is Corbin's with a few feet of poly.

o Some builders added, along with the main blade liner/film a "poly" or other material to help even out the blade brightness along it's length. See above. Poly does even the blade out because the light from the lux has more to "reflect/light" up.

o Some have painted the outside of the blade. Have seen but not a fan. It will show up during day and outside but I am happy with the plan tubes and wrap.

o Some have bead blasted the outside of the blade. When you blast the tube you are basically turning it into a defuser. You can sand the tube back and forth, not up and down, and kinda get the same effect.

o Some have bead blasted the inside the blade. See above. Very hard.

o Different types of mirror materials have been used for the blade tip. If you use a mirror light will not be able to light up the tip. Many use a semi transparent film attached to the tip. This gives the best of both worlds as it lets light thru and reflects it back down the blade.

Pics of my Maul. Every pic is subject to scrutiny because there is no standard for distance or camera settings. This pic looks over saturated.

Dark no flash
P9030041.jpg


Dark flash
P9030042.jpg


Again these are only my opinions. Everyone has one and they sometime stink.

Thanks!

Greg
 
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Mechamaniac said:
The hyperdyne blades do look the best hands down, but they're still LED's correct? I wonder how they are more durable than the stock MR blades.
Click to expand...

Hyperblades are more durable then stock MR blades simply because MR blades use brittle particle board that you can litterally break in half like a cracker. Whereas we use PCB boards similar to the ones found in your computer that flex and bend. Or your standard plastic credit card. Can you imagine breaking that in half? :confused
 
Gman666 said:
Those videos are great but there are +/- of each type. Erv's or Ultra's sound boards have great sounds and can power a luxIII, K2, and luxV. The Cree and the P4 are very bright. The lux blade in the video is poor in my opinion because different wraps give different results. The Hyperdyne is very expensive. It has the leds in the blade like the MR. Opinions on how well it is to duel with vary but you cannot deny the brightness/sound.

Thanks!

Greg
Click to expand...

That's wierd it's never really stated what wraps were used in the video. How do you know what wrap is used? Even if the best wraps were used how will that make a difference? :confused

Still the videos are a a good reference point. Weather or not you believe it uses the worse or best wrap. If you think it uses the worst wraps. Then how much brighter is the worse wrap from the best wrap? Not a lot I bet.

Look on the walls in the video!

Also anybody is more then welcome to send us their best wraped Lux blade for a comparison. So far no one has. I wonder why.

BTW the leds in a Hyperblade are not like leds in an MR. They are more advance. That's why the blades brighter. No need to heatsink either. In addition Erv and Ultra's sound boards lifted their technology. :thumbsdown

You will find this thread start to turn into the one like theforce.net forum LED Q & A. :rolleyes
 
TheDisturbance said:
That's wierd it's never really stated what wraps were used in the video. How do you know what wrap is used? Even if the best wraps were used how will that make a difference? :confused

Still the videos are a a good reference point. Weather or not you believe it uses the worse or best wrap. If you think it uses the worst wraps. Then how much brighter is the worse wrap from the best wrap? Not a lot I bet.

Look on the walls in the video!

Also anybody is more then welcome to send us their best wraped Lux blade for a comparison. So far no one has. I wonder why.

BTW the leds in a Hyperblade are not like leds in an MR. They are more advance. That's why the blades brighter. No need to heatsink either. In addition Erv and Ultra's sound boards lifted their technology. :thumbsdown

You will find this thread start to turn into the one like theforce.net forum LED Q & A. :rolleyes
Click to expand...

Hold on there. I never said which are better. I remember saying there are +/-. I will not turn this into a pissing contest on who has the better lightsaber. You can see it on the above mentioned forums. You can see the light bulb effect in the lux blade as if it just has one roll of film. This thread is on blades. There are many different types. X wing is working on nylon for his sabers. As for Erv lifting your tech do not flatter yourself. I think Erv's credentials speak for themselves. Are your leds not in the blade? This is not the Pepsi challenge.

Thanks!

Greg
 
The hyperdyne blades are awesome but way expensive. I'm sure they're worth every penny but that's a bit more than I personally would want to spend. I wouldn't want to sink 3 or 4 hundred dollars into upgrading my 99 dollar saber. That's sorta like putting a 10,000 dollar stereo in your 89 Hyndai. If I was building a saber hilt from the ground up, then I would certainly consider the hyperdyne blades.

While they're not as impressive, for me, I think the Luxeon conversions are better simply from a cost perspective, and with most of them, you can remove the blade and display the hilt alone as well.
 
Gman666 said:
Hold on there. I never said which are better. I remember saying there are +/-. I will not turn this into a pissing contest on who has the better lightsaber. You can see it on the above mentioned forums. You can see the light bulb effect in the lux blade as if it just has one roll of film. This thread is on blades. There are many different types. X wing is working on nylon for his sabers. As for Erv lifting your tech do not flatter yourself. I think Erv's credentials speak for themselves. Are your leds not in the blade? This is not the Pepsi challenge.

Thanks!

Greg
Click to expand...

Xwing was notorious for criticizing the use of Nylon. Even mentions them on the "above mentioned forums". Which I might add are biased propaganda machines. Now he's using them as if he discovered them.

Gman666 said:
The lux blade in the video is poor in my opinion because different wraps give different results.
Click to expand...

What are you exactly trying to spit out here? What kind of result are you expecting with a better wrap? What is "the point" you are making here? Are you saying from your experience with a better wrap you found out that __________________ (fill in the blank)

a) better wrap will outshine Hyperblade.
b) not be as bright as a Hyperblade.
c) Little bit brighter then crappy wrap lux.
d) A lot brighter then crappy wrap lux.
e) if lux was on fire it would be brigther then all.
f) will outshine a lit candle.
g) will help you find your way in the dark.
h) ___________________ ( I dunno I haven't done jack to test my "theory" and have yet to show proof of my argument)
i) I can read something on a biased forum and regurgitate it as fact.
j) I'm just stirring the pot.

My point: Will using a better wrap make that much of a difference? You seem to be implying yes. I willing to step over the line and say no. Instead of dancing on the line. LOOK AT THE WALLS ON THE VIDEOS!

Do you have a wrap/recipe/formula/system that will give this magical "different result"?!?! Have you experimented and documented your results with any photographic equipment yourself? Or is your "opinion" the result of you reading "the aboved mentioned forums".

Gman666 said:
Opinions on how well it is to duel with vary but you cannot deny the brightness/sound.
Click to expand...

If you cannot deny the brightness then what is the point in your statement that the lux needs a better wrap?

Gman666 said:
The subject of blades have been posted on throughly on both. I do not know if we want to cut and paste from there.
Click to expand...

I agree with you here. This thread is like your point about a better wrap. Why? Why? Why?
 
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TheDisturbance said:
Again I ask why is this thread here?
Click to expand...

Well, before that post, I thought the point was to discuss which was the best option for replacing the crappy stock MR blades. Now, it seems you've chosen this thread to piss on every option but the Hyperblades.

Do you work for them? For their sake, I hope no, since I for one would never deal with anyone who so blatantly tried to crap on the competition.
 
Man,

All I asked was some simple questions... does not have anything to do with Hyperdyne. BTW: I meet and talked with the guy, as he was in our R2 Builders room at CIV and had a nice display setup with a Darth Vader standee and one of his red blades. Yes, it was awesome and I think it's the best out there for a stinged LED blade. Eventually I probably will get one of his blades for my next project!

Now, I'm asking for input on *LUXEON* because that's what I have chosen for now. I like the idea of having detachable blade and one heck of a flashlight/conversation piece with no blade installed.

OK, let me ask just this one question for the experianced ones here: What type of film did you use inside your blade and how many wraps? I see *LUXEON* blade pictures, video's, etc. all the time but no description of HOW the blade is put together or what was used to make it...

There, that should be easy enough :)

I'll check out the other forums too, as mentioned previously. Thanks for the links.

Again, thanks in advance guys. This is not a Hyperdyne but a *LUXEON* BLADE thread OK? We know the differences.

Cheers!
 
I think the Hyperdyne stuff is cool but untested. All the vids I saw of his stuff used in dueling was slowly done. I'm sure it was done this way for the safety of the particpants but as a martial artist I like something that takes a beating and keeps on going. Maybe not full swings but faster movements and more of them in sucession.

If they were battle tested and a little cheaper I might go his route, especisally for a sithly looking saber.
 
Hitogiri said:
I think the Hyperdyne stuff is cool but untested. All the vids I saw of his stuff used in dueling was slowly done. I'm sure it was done this way for the safety of the particpants but as a martial artist I like something that takes a beating and keeps on going. Maybe not full swings but faster movements and more of them in sucession.

If they were battle tested and a little cheaper I might go his route, especisally for a sithly looking saber.
Click to expand...

It will easily meet your criteria of dueling. As for price. It's hard to stay in business when you have stuff like this going on:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140163420592

Breakdown:
Real Vintage Graflex $150.00
Luxeon Bulb $45.00 (already overpriced for the cost of the bulb)
Blade Tube $25.00
Charger and Batteries $40.00 (estimated)
Infringing Ultrasound Technology $79.00
Graflex Blade Socket $19.95
Graflex Glass Eye Thumb screw $14.95
Graflex Brass Pins $14.95
Graflexshop Shipping $10.00 (estimated)
Crystal Core Saber Chassis $100.00 (Generous estimate in parts cost)

http://www.blast-tech.com/products_packagedKits_GX-2.asp $30.00 (shipping $10.00 estimated)


Estimated total for all parts $538.85
Ebay fees $81.29
Shipping saber to you $19.95

Estimated Total $640.09

Sold for $3,900.00 :confused

Profit of $3,279.86 :eek

Is the Crystal Core a REAL diamond? :confused

Time/Labor to assemble. Hell of a lot less time compared to a Hyperblade conversion. Even if you minus that "Crystal Core Saber Chassis".


:confused :confused :confused :confused :confused :confused

George L. You're a member of thecustomsabershop.com and fx-sabers.com....Are you not? I'm sure they can cover the ground on your question. I think they already have as someone else already pointed out. Wouldn't it be the best place to start there, since there are more saber ethusiasts on those forums? Wouldn't you think? Or have they been of no help over there to you?

Get them while you can boys.:confused:confused:confused
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=codYLfnus2w

thedisturbance aka "the :wacko"
 
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