Luke's green TLJ lightsaber design thread

The real one is approximately 11.25 inches or thereabouts.

Im guessing 11 on the nose. Roy's scaling came out to 278mm. That's a little under 11". Now if this was an older prop that had been cast a bunch I'd upscale it to 11.25 as you say. But since the exhibit sabet was 1st generation, and since modern resins shrink so much less than the ones that were being used in 1983, I'm thinking thay the shrinkage we're seeing is relatively minimal.

My .02

Dan
 
Im guessing 11 on the nose. Roy's scaling came out to 278mm. That's a little under 11". Now if this was an older prop that had been cast a bunch I'd upscale it to 11.25 as you say. But since the exhibit sabet was 1st generation, and since modern resins shrink so much less than the ones that were being used in 1983, I'm thinking thay the shrinkage we're seeing is relatively minimal.

My .02

Dan

Sorry Dan, I was talking about the RotJ Hero being 11.25, after halliwax asked.

When it comes to the TLJ prop, I have no problem believing your calculations are pretty spot on.
 
I'm shocked people still make statics, anymore. What with the advent of clever sound venting or separate soundvented pieces to switch out when on display... FX hilts these days are indistinguishable from static with the exception of a silly grub retention screw.
 
I have a FX design drawn up as well which doesn't change the exterior dimensions, and which also doesn't have any visible blade retaining screw hole (It's probably just my pet peeve, but I hate it when there are extra screw holes added that we're on the original)
If I did a FX version (or a static version as well), would people I rather drill holes for the control box to afix into TLJ position, or should I leave the holes un-drilled on the saber body so that people could put the control box in the TFA/Target exclusive position?
TLJ FX model.jpg
 

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On my fx model, the emitter can have a blade plug or a blade retaining ring screwed into the emitter hole. The separation get's hidden when either is screwed down. The blade is held in place by the set screws on the retaining ring. But those holes are covered up when the retaining ring is screwed into place. This way, there won't have to be an extra set screw hole visible on the emitter head. Pretty clever if I do say so myself :)

I'm not putting any sound venting holes in the pommel or anything. If people want to add them, they're more than welcome to.
 
I'm shocked people still make statics, anymore. What with the advent of clever sound venting or separate soundvented pieces to switch out when on display... FX hilts these days are indistinguishable from static with the exception of a silly grub retention screw.

It’s nothing nefarious. Most of us who prefer static are trying to replicate the hero props. Add on features that weren’t present on the originals can take away from that goal.

I have some FX sabers, and I love them for what they are, but I don’t display those like I do my other props. The exception will be Dan’s V2!

And it is absolutely not about the money. I’d spend more to get a more film accurate prop any day of the week.

Back on the topic of Luke’s TLJ saber, there were static and FX ones built for filming. There is a good case for both. Can’t wait to see Dan’s progress on this one.
 
This is a TLJ Luke thin neck run, so whatever it takes to achieve that accuracy for FX is my preference. That's the TLJ as seen in that flashback scene.

Just to state my position: I prefer an FX version but I am happy to support a static run if that is where the demand is. Either way, I like what Daniel does, so I am pleased to support this. (His Luke V2 run just completed was amazing).
 
This is a TLJ Luke thin neck run, so whatever it takes to achieve that accuracy for FX is my preference. That's the TLJ as seen in that flashback scene.

Just to state my position: I prefer an FX version but I am happy to support a static run if that is where the demand is. Either way, I like what Daniel does, so I am pleased to support this. (His Luke V2 run just completed was amazing).

Thanks for the support. I can go either way. Ive designed it both ways, so it's basically going to be down to whichever way gets us to a critical mass that makes this run possible.

I've searched high and low for the triagular leds and basically they're out of productiom almost everwhere, except one store in the Czech republic. I cant order them through their website, because I'm in the USA. But I emailed them asking for a special order.

Also, anyone here from the Czech republic and can ship me leds?
 
Dan you can always look into having green and red resin arrows made, and then the installers can put white LEDs behind the resin arrows




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Dan you can always look into having green and red resin arrows made, and then the installers can put white LEDs behind the resin arrows




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:thumbsup

Word. That's what Khal did with the second run of his ROTJ Hero run.

Keep up the great work!
 
I’m most likely up for one.
I assume it comes raw and all alu, which means (to me) it has to beat Roman’s price-wise..
Regarding arrows you could team up with Knullzero who does both PCB and arrows for retro fitting other current heros..


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Knullzero has made me custom arrows, beautiful product and fast turn around. He’s a great guy


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