Barnstormer
Well-Known Member
Mine was waiting for me when I got home last night - awesome!
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Limited Run Luke V2 liightsaber (Second Run) Sign up thread
- Thread starter Anakin Starkiller
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D3adrock
Well-Known Member
Well after much struggle, allot of wd-40, some broken pliers and a couple of busted knees (don't ask) I got the rod out. However the bearing remains crooked. But I think this rod must be some miracle material such as adamantium. It is unmarkable. I have tried everything from hack saws to files and not a single scratch on it.
newmagrathea
Sr Member
Use a pipe, slide it over the rod and tap the end with a hammer to move the bearing.
D3adrock
Well-Known Member
I'm not quite sure that I understand what you mean? From which end do I slide the pipe, and how does that relate to the rod? Are you telling me to put the rod back in? Sorry for all the questions, i'm just a little frenetic trying to figure out a solution. Also incase anyone was wondering this is the hole I meant was missing from mine. (I hope you don't mind me re-ususing your pic)
. Here is the current condition of my bearing
Pixelpiper
Well-Known Member
You'd have to knock it out the bottom via a device from the top. Insert the rod in through the top and with a mallet knock the bearing out. If the rod has no wiggle going in the top and doesn't sit where you want it on the bearing to dislodge it, use a thinner rod to allow you to angle it "just right."
newmagrathea
Sr Member
Yep, it could be a small pipe or rod like Pixelpiper said. Needs to be a smaller diameter so you can angle it a bit. Position it so the rod is sitting on the high side and give it a few good taps to level it out and then switch sides. Keep alternating until it come all the way out. I used a small aluminum tube that I had lying around. You can pick them up at a hardware store or a hobby shop for just a couple bucks.
newmagrathea
Sr Member
So the best set of instructions that I've seen is from D48thRonin in this thread in post #81 http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=244175&page=4
He used oven cleaner to remove the shine, diluted aluminum black to discolor the metal slightly, a stencil and satin black spray paint. I'm going to do mine the same way because I like the way his turned out.
russellsch
Master Member
I haven't received mine yet. But I've gotta say, I'm kinda freaking out. I do hope mine goes together without anything getting stuck, or off centered. I can handle the need for sanding the pommel. However, the whole rod & bearing fitting thing, has me concerned.
D3adrock
Well-Known Member
Tell me about it.
I wouldn't stress at all. If the bearing doesn't fit or is off centered than don't use it. I ditched the bearing and it went together immediately with a shaft collar. if the hole is off center that doesn't mean the emitter will be. You can buy a shaft collar at any hardware store or get a set of these at Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-drill-stop-set-38336.html
Im not going to lie, I was freaking out about it too when I couldn't get it to sit right. It's nothing to worry about, and the emitter still spins.
Im not going to lie, I was freaking out about it too when I couldn't get it to sit right. It's nothing to worry about, and the emitter still spins.
Inigou
Well-Known Member
What should be the shaft collar size?
Inner and outer diameter size of the collar
abg1777
New Member
Here is mine finished ( for now). I'm not a 100% happy with the paint job as the stencils were a lot harder for me than I thought they would be and unfortunately the paint I went with didn't want to stick to the aluminum very well. So I'm most likely gonna re-paint the whole thing. Also need to drill a little deeper for the mystery chunk. Anyways here she is with my older one on top and Romans Obi Wan.
Pixelpiper
Well-Known Member
IMO, there are very few paints on the market in any country that will stick to bare aluminum - Inigo's recommendations/mentions are the absolute best available in a rattle can IMO - and I've exhausted a lot of time researching the subject.
A 2K based primer (that's a 2-part automotive paint) will work - an epoxy base will be hard wearing. Brand EASTWOOD - 2K epoxy primer in black. It's made in Germany and is re-branded Spraymax (black Spraymax isn't available in North American as far as I can tell). It's available in a 2-part self-mixing rattle can for about $22.
Duracoat - also a 2-part paint especially made for firearms. Expect to pay around $40 for a can - same type of self-mixing 2-part can as Spraymax/Eastwood. This is going to be by far the best and most hard-wearing paint you'll ever find. You won't be able to easily chip it off even with tools once it's fully cured.
If you're looking for "cheap" then Krylon Paint+Primer or their new similar stuff DUAL. This will need MULTIPLE super-thin coats and should be baked in an oven to speed curing and result in the hardest surface possible. With multiple coats baked for an hour each it will be very difficult to chip, but the paint finish can still be marred,making matte marks on a satin finish - this won't likely be possible with the 2K and Duracoat products above.
There are plenty of test photo and videos online showing that Rustoleum is far inferior to Krylon, so IMO, don't bother with it, even baked.
When you're done, wax the whole thing. Some people might choose "Renaissance Wax" and some others might just opt for Johnson or Turtle.
That's my 2 cents anyway.
A 2K based primer (that's a 2-part automotive paint) will work - an epoxy base will be hard wearing. Brand EASTWOOD - 2K epoxy primer in black. It's made in Germany and is re-branded Spraymax (black Spraymax isn't available in North American as far as I can tell). It's available in a 2-part self-mixing rattle can for about $22.
Duracoat - also a 2-part paint especially made for firearms. Expect to pay around $40 for a can - same type of self-mixing 2-part can as Spraymax/Eastwood. This is going to be by far the best and most hard-wearing paint you'll ever find. You won't be able to easily chip it off even with tools once it's fully cured.
If you're looking for "cheap" then Krylon Paint+Primer or their new similar stuff DUAL. This will need MULTIPLE super-thin coats and should be baked in an oven to speed curing and result in the hardest surface possible. With multiple coats baked for an hour each it will be very difficult to chip, but the paint finish can still be marred,making matte marks on a satin finish - this won't likely be possible with the 2K and Duracoat products above.
There are plenty of test photo and videos online showing that Rustoleum is far inferior to Krylon, so IMO, don't bother with it, even baked.
When you're done, wax the whole thing. Some people might choose "Renaissance Wax" and some others might just opt for Johnson or Turtle.
That's my 2 cents anyway.
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raif79
Well-Known Member
Are you kidding me? That looks fantastic. I'm going to start applying the stencils this weekend. I'm going to treat this project like building a ship in the bottle.
I went 5/16th but since you're in Spain it would be 8mm. I used a small shaft collar 8mm ID x 12mm X 6mm height but the bearing is 8mm ID x 19mm OD x 6mm height so anything in between will work
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Yeah, that paint job looks awesome!
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Yeah, that paint job looks awesome!
A bunch more went in the mail today. If you paid by April 1, your kit is on its way to you
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