Luke ROTJ patterns?
- Thread starter Jawafive
- Start date
Kay Dee
New Member
You won't find commercial patterns that you can use as-is for this costume (unless there is something new I'm unaware of out there...). I made the shirt and outer tunic for someone a few years ago and had to totally redraft patterns to customize them.
Granted, I made this for a female so the shirt pattern block I started with was a woman's. You could just as easily start with a men's dress shirt pattern and draft a mandarin collar and the bib construction.
Base Pattern Used: McCall's 4381
collar used: Butterick 3345
Fabric: Cotton Twill subtituted for Wool Gabardine. Gray Kona cotton used for bib lining (this might be lighter in color than the original, but it's the best we could find).
I studied quite a few screen caps and photos of Luke, and I felt that the best way to have the bib hang open like the real costume was to design the layers of the bib more like Han Solo's shirt. It doesn't zip up underneath or button up. I only added 2 snaps inside to help keep it from shifting, but they may not even be needed.
Here the lower flap of the bib is pulled out to give you a clearer idea of my design:
Pattern Block Used: McCall's 8155
and collar from Butterick 4401
Modifications Made: My final pattern doesn't look like the McCall's pattern at all. This was only a rough starting point so I'd have something to drape with. The shape of the front opening is different, The arm cycles are deep V, the waist was tapered inward, a seam was added in the back at the waist to help with shaping and eliminate baggy bulk. Facings and lining were added as well.
Fabric Used: I suspect the real costume is made of a heavy, slubby silk (it has the look of heavy linen). Neither was in budget for this project, so a heavy linen was used. (A weight for jackets or upholstery). The fabric was distressed with sanding blocks (Thanks to The Pariah for that suggestion), then washed several times in very hot water to fade the color (I even threw in a tennis shoe to try to get it distressed a little more).
Since the linen was still a little thin on its own, I added Kona cotton lining to add more body to the vest. I don't think the real costume is lined though (I think I can make out where the arm hole facing tacks on to the outer fabric in screen caps.) If I had to do it over I'd probably line with black muslin, as the kona cotton is a little stiffer than I'd prefer.
You may also noticed I added a seam to the scarf bit in the center back. Although I don't see evidence of this on the movie version, for the size and shape I was making this costume it was the only way to have the grain of the fabric line up properly in front on both sides of the tabards.
Granted, I made this for a female so the shirt pattern block I started with was a woman's. You could just as easily start with a men's dress shirt pattern and draft a mandarin collar and the bib construction.
Base Pattern Used: McCall's 4381
collar used: Butterick 3345
Fabric: Cotton Twill subtituted for Wool Gabardine. Gray Kona cotton used for bib lining (this might be lighter in color than the original, but it's the best we could find).
I studied quite a few screen caps and photos of Luke, and I felt that the best way to have the bib hang open like the real costume was to design the layers of the bib more like Han Solo's shirt. It doesn't zip up underneath or button up. I only added 2 snaps inside to help keep it from shifting, but they may not even be needed.
Here the lower flap of the bib is pulled out to give you a clearer idea of my design:
Pattern Block Used: McCall's 8155
and collar from Butterick 4401
Modifications Made: My final pattern doesn't look like the McCall's pattern at all. This was only a rough starting point so I'd have something to drape with. The shape of the front opening is different, The arm cycles are deep V, the waist was tapered inward, a seam was added in the back at the waist to help with shaping and eliminate baggy bulk. Facings and lining were added as well.
Fabric Used: I suspect the real costume is made of a heavy, slubby silk (it has the look of heavy linen). Neither was in budget for this project, so a heavy linen was used. (A weight for jackets or upholstery). The fabric was distressed with sanding blocks (Thanks to The Pariah for that suggestion), then washed several times in very hot water to fade the color (I even threw in a tennis shoe to try to get it distressed a little more).
Since the linen was still a little thin on its own, I added Kona cotton lining to add more body to the vest. I don't think the real costume is lined though (I think I can make out where the arm hole facing tacks on to the outer fabric in screen caps.) If I had to do it over I'd probably line with black muslin, as the kona cotton is a little stiffer than I'd prefer.
You may also noticed I added a seam to the scarf bit in the center back. Although I don't see evidence of this on the movie version, for the size and shape I was making this costume it was the only way to have the grain of the fabric line up properly in front on both sides of the tabards.
Too Much Garlic
Master Member
That's looking really cool.
Can never get over how this costume always has a Catholic monastic feel to it, rather than the more asian inspired garbs of Obi-Wan.
Can never get over how this costume always has a Catholic monastic feel to it, rather than the more asian inspired garbs of Obi-Wan.
Darth Mule
Sr Member
I tried messing with this one once back when I first started learning to pattern. Might be fun to take another whack at it.
I'm interested in this method you used Kay Dee. Makes me think rather of the BSG blues... Although I would want to try to work that into a jumpsuit.
At least I think this was a jumpsuit. If memory serves me right.
I'm interested in this method you used Kay Dee. Makes me think rather of the BSG blues... Although I would want to try to work that into a jumpsuit.
At least I think this was a jumpsuit. If memory serves me right.
Kay Dee
New Member
Yes, the bib is kind of similar to the BSG Blues in the way I added a snap inside. But the Blues are easier because it opens up all the way in the front. Luke's bib was petty complicated.
BTW - Lukes ROTJ costume is two pieces. Pants and shirt. This is confirmed in behind the scenes shots of Mark Hamill trying on the costume as well as by one of the museum workers at FIDM who helped dress the mannequin.
Darth Mule
Sr Member
Interesting. A two piece makes it a whole lot easier. I think I was actually going by the information on Obi-Wan's Jedi Academy some years back. Not that that should be considered accurate as the pattern they suggested was awful. I would prefer to do this as a two piece given my druthers.
Thanks Kay Dee!
Kay Dee
New Member
Ah, I was wondering where that persistent rumor that the suit was a one piece was coming from! I have a friend who is an avid Luke costumer that initially swore that the suit was one piece and well, I guess he learned that we have to take all posted research info with a grain of salt. (we even have to take printed information in Dressing a Galaxy with a grain of salt. That book has some clear fabric documentation errors. So frustrating for those of us who wanted to rely on that book for accurate research). I'd post screen caps of Mark behind the scenes as proof of it being 2 piece... I'm just not sure if I ever bothered to make any.
We also suspect (but I never got confirmation) that the pants Luke has are like the riding pants Han wears. They may have the U shaped seam on the back of the pant. I could never get a clear yes or no on this though from the people who handled the costume as I only thought to ask about it after I missed my opportunity to check it first hand. I was told there was a 'gusset' in the pants.
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Eopie Herder
Sr Member
This is fantastic! Very well done, it really is beautiful!
Another possible source for this rumor is that every single Jedi Luke 12" figure that Hasbro and Sideshow has made, has it as a one piece jumpsuit. Medicom however, is the only one that made it as a two piece.
Kay Dee
New Member
Interesting! I have a friend who always wants to refer to the dolls/action figures for making costumes - but the action figures (particularly ones that wear cloth like a doll) are terribly simplified.
I was too busy to mention it, but coincidentally the person I made this costume put it on ebay a week or two ago. :cry It didn't sell though... probably because the inner tunic was noticeably cut for a small female.
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