Limited Run Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit.( Run closed )

[andrew25rs]

Is there any consensus on if the control box screws are supposed to be brass? Every replica Ive seen has them gold colored, and they appear to be on the real thing. Anyone know what size these are?

Good question.

 

[The 48th Ronin]

They don't look like brass to me...

 

[Kylash]

:thumbsup

 

[andrew25rs]

They don't look like brass to me...

View attachment 697732

View attachment 697733

Perfect!

 

[Somerset]

Just out of interest, what kind of lacquer are people using (if at all) to preserve the finish on both the aluminium and copper parts? As much as I love polishing, I don't want to have to keep doing it....

Are there differences between the lacquers you get for say aluminium wheel rims or more generic types?

 

[Spyhunter2k]

Just out of interest, what kind of lacquer are people using (if at all) to preserve the finish on both the aluminium and copper parts? As much as I love polishing, I don't want to have to keep doing it....

Are there differences between the lacquers you get for say aluminium wheel rims or more generic types?

I use Krylon Colormaster with "Acrylic Crystal Clear" written in small letters at the bottom. It's a lacquer but it's so thin and dries so fast that it can usually be sprayed on top of anything.

 

[Inigou]

Hi. Anybody please would share with me the width of the grenade section rings? Both of them, the wider and narrower.
Thanks!

 

[Kylash]

Found my 5mm triangle LED's I got off ebay a while ago. Printed out a few screenshots of the original box, sized correctly to this saber's plate, and cut out the triangles. A perfect match.



Now I'm going to attempt to drill a hole and start filing it out into the triangles so I can mount them securely, and maybe someday, make them work.

 

[Luke0312]

I ended up going with a polished finish on most of mine, left a brushed finish on the rings and control box. Just preferred the look. Lightly wet sanded with 250 to remove any tool marks, then worked up to 2000. Finished with a quick spin on the buffer. Painted the ribbed section black (no masking) with Krylon flat black, let dry a day, then wat sanded the rings to remove the pain (250 grit), no chipping that way. Chopped up an old board from a portable DVD player and added a few other resistors, caps, and diode.

Now I'm going to attempt to drill a hole and start filing it out into the triangles so I can mount them securely, and maybe someday, make them work.

I hadn't even thought of lighting the triangles, since I've viewed it as a static piece, but your post makes me think a bit more about it.

It should be simple to drill behind the included triangles and mount two 3mm LEDs (for anyone who doesn't want to fully remove two triangle shaped sections). Each would need a small housing to keep the light from bleeding to the other and focus it through the triangle, but that would be easy (something even as simple as a cut pen cap would work). The biggest issue would be power for them, since the body is solid, it would need a coin cell in the control box or the body drilled out. The switch would also need to be in the control box for it to be hidden.

I've been designing/building a circuit for a windshield wiper switch (retrofit in classic), based on a 4017 timer. I actually started to add a 555 timer and some LEDs to have it flash back and forth between the red and green because I had it stuck in my had that's what it did in the deleted scene. Re-watched it though and it appears to be about seven flashes of the green, then red.

 

[Inigou]

Very nice! But flip the windvane. Is upside down!
anyway, love the circuit control work. I planned doing the same with mine.

one question. May you measure for me the width of the rings?

I ended up going with a polished finish on most of mine, left a brushed finish on the rings and control box. Just preferred the look. Lightly wet sanded with 250 to remove any tool marks, then worked up to 2000. Finished with a quick spin on the buffer. Painted the ribbed section black (no masking) with Krylon flat black, let dry a day, then wat sanded the rings to remove the pain (250 grit), no chipping that way. Chopped up an old board from a portable DVD player and added a few other resistors, caps, and diode.

View attachment 698229View attachment 698230



I hadn't even thought of lighting the triangles, since I've viewed it as a static piece, but your post makes me think a bit more about it.

It should be simple to drill behind the included triangles and mount two 3mm LEDs (for anyone who doesn't want to fully remove two triangle shaped sections). Each would need a small housing to keep the light from bleeding to the other and focus it through the triangle, but that would be easy (something even as simple as a cut pen cap would work). The biggest issue would be power for them, since the body is solid, it would need a coin cell in the control box or the body drilled out. The switch would also need to be in the control box for it to be hidden.

I've been designing/building a circuit for a windshield wiper switch (retrofit in classic), based on a 4017 timer. I actually started to add a 555 timer and some LEDs to have it flash back and forth between the red and green because I had it stuck in my had that's what it did in the deleted scene. Re-watched it though and it appears to be about seven flashes of the green, then red.

 

[Kylash]

I only though to make the triangles blink because they do in the deleted scene, though that could have been a post effect.

Here's how it turned out. The cutouts ended up a little too big, but can't add the metal back!

 

[Kylash]

Anyone got any idea what this gold color under the last emitter ring is? A reflection from the windvane? Actual paint from the windvane to up under the emitter?

 

[The 48th Ronin]

Yeah, I think it must be the paint continued up from the "windvane." I'm guessing that it's the same sort of thing that you can see here - the edge of the ring at the base the windvane got taped off before they painted it gold, but not the face that's towards the emitter end.

 

[Luke0312]

Lol, always with my mind elsewhere. Swapped now though.

Sharing measurements would be a decision for Nicksdad, since it is his run/creation.

Very nice! But flip the windvane. Is upside down!
anyway, love the circuit control work. I planned doing the same with mine.

one question. May you measure for me the width of the rings?

 

[Inigou]

Oh, ok. I already purchased and I'm waiting for it to arrive.
Just wanted to know because I want to have prepared the correct size masking tape for the rings.

Lol, always with my mind elsewhere. Swapped now though.

Sharing measurements would be a decision for Nicksdad, since it is his run/creation.

 

[Inigou]

Hi. How do you unscrew the windvane section? The copper part? Mine is very hard, I can´t take it appart. ALl the rest of the parts are easy to do, but not this one.
Please help

 

[Kylash]

I had the same problem, found out the set screws have hex slots on the ends, so I had to put one down in one end and loosen it up and then I was able to unscrew them.

 

[Inigou]

Thanks for your answer.
And how it loosen up. Clock or anticlockwise?

I had the same problem, found out the set screws have hex slots on the ends, so I had to put one down in one end and loosen it up and then I was able to unscrew them.

 

[Luke0312]

Hi. How do you unscrew the windvane section? The copper part? Mine is very hard, I can´t take it appart. ALl the rest of the parts are easy to do, but not this one.
Please help

If you mean the copper won't unscrew from an adjacent aluminum piece, mine was the same. Had to wrap them in cloth, then carefully and gently use pliers to get enough grip to separate.

Caused by galvanic corrosion between the copper and aluminum. Once you have them apart, clean all the oxidation off each, then apply a barrier (an isolating electrical barrier is ideal, but since I'm sure everyone keeps their inside out of the weather, even something as simple as clear fingernail polish will work). There's nothing wrong with the pieces, that's just the properties of each metal.

 

[Kylash]

Well I primed and painted my grenade piece with Rustoleum for metal, and when I went to lightly sand the rings, I still got paint chips in a few edges. Anyone have luck with something particular?