Looking for help on making helmets

Light_Tech

Well-Known Member
New on the helmet scene here, I'm looking to do a sculpt of a helmet and I understand how to get a negative of the outside of the helmet. My confusion is in getting the positive of the helmet. Hopefully i've explained my question so that it is understandable. Any help would be great. Thanks everyone.

-Chris
 
New on the helmet scene here, I'm looking to do a sculpt of a helmet and I understand how to get a negative of the outside of the helmet. My confusion is in getting the positive of the helmet. Hopefully i've explained my question so that it is understandable. Any help would be great. Thanks everyone.

-Chris

Ok, to avoid confusion, first things first... :D

TERMINOLOGY

Your sculpt of the helmet is called the PATTERN, BUCK or just SCULPT.
What you're calling a negative is called the MOLD.
What you're calling the positive is the CASTING or PULL
CAST is the correct word for all tenses, past present and future; there is no such word as "CASTED":p

Now, on to making your mold. When your sculpt is finished, and you checked it for any last minute flaws and corrected them, mix up about 300 grams of good quaility silicone and brush it on. It will try to run off and pool at the base of your sculpt, so you'll need to keep chasing it back up with your paint brush until it thickens enough to stay put. This first layer is the most important since it captures all your detail. This is called the BEAUTY COAT or LAYER.

When your beauty coat is solid enough to touch w/o coming off on your fingers, start mixing up another 300 grams of silicone and brush that on. Apply at least 4 more coats this way.

Now, find an old t-shirt and cut it up into small squares about 2" on a side.

This is where it gets MESSY. Mix up another batch of silicone, and wearing latex gloves dip the t-shirt squares into it and wet each square and work the silicone well into it and squeegie off the extra with your fingers. Then apply it to the silicone already on your sculpt. Do this until it's completely covered with the silicone soaked t-shirt squares, making sure to overlap them as you go.

When all that is dry, put one or two more coats of silicone on to smooth it all out.

You're done now with the silicone, so clean your work area, mixing spoons etc. and let that last layer cure up.

Now your mold is going to need a jacket to support it while you make your castings. There are several ways to do this- you can use plaster, plaster bandages, fiberglass (YUCK!) or you can brush up layers of resin if you have plenty to spare.

Whatever you use, you need to run a 1.5" - 2" high clay wall down the middle of the silicone, from the chin of the helmet, up and over, all the way to the bottom of the back.

Start applying your jacket material to one side of the mold, making sure that it goes up the clay wall to give you a good flange. When you're sure it will be sturdy enough, peel the clay wall away and vaseline the bejesus out of the flange on the side where the clay was, and be extra careful not to loosen your first side of the jacket while you're doing it.

Repeat the process for the other side of the jacket and let everything dry/cure for a couple hours.

Now, take a drill with a 1/4" bit and drill through both the flanges on your jacket in 3-4 places. (I usually just do 3 unless it's really big- one at the chin, one at the top of the head, and one at the bottom back.)

Take a big flat bladed screwdriver and carefully pop your jacket halves apart and set aside, you're now ready to pull your mold off your pattern. If your helmet is wide at the bottom like Boba Fett or a "300" helmet, you should be able to roll your mold off like a big rubber sock. If it has undercuts like a TIE helmet, you'll need to split the mold to get it off. Splitting it will give all your castings a small seam, but that's easily sanded off later. Try to put the split up the back in a wide area with as little detail as possible.

Now back to your jacket halves- put them back together and bolt them together with 1/4" bolts and wingnuts through the holes you drilled earlier.
dust the entire inside of your jacket with baby powder and slip your silicone mold back inside. Push and poke around inside the mold to make sure it's properly seated in the jacket.

Powder the inside of the mold now to break the surface tension of your resin and suck it into every little nook and cranny.

Your mold is now ready for it's first casting!

(But that's another lesson!)

-Sarge
 
Wow, thanks for all that information. Definitely a place to start from. Thanks for the help.

Can't wait till the next lesson. :)

Chris
 
You can also check out the extras section on the ROTS dvd, there is a featurette about the new Vader helmet. It shows how they did the inner-outer mold-thingie. SgtFang really did a great job in explaining the process, the featurette should give you some visual information about the process.

Michael
 
Superb post Sgt Fang! That explained a lot of stuff that I had heard of but wasn't too sure how to do.(y)thumbsup(y)thumbsup:thumbsup
 
Well Written Fang. It's nice seeing these type posts around here. That sort of thing is what keeps me coming back here. That is what makes this place a community. :)

Dave
 
If you go to http://alumilite.com/ This company makes a wide variety of moulding/casting materials and they have several very in-depth online video tutorials for doing just about every type of job you might imagine. I use their resins and silicons and I've never had any issues with anything I've used.

Dave :)
 
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Sarge, on something like a Boba Fett helmet, how to do you keep the silicone mold from pulling away from the fiberglass jacket and the mold from splitting when you unroll th mold?
 
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the t-shirt materials keeps it strong so you can roll it away. If you already split the mold, you don't need to roll it off.

Why would the silicon pull away from the jacket/mother mold? It's on the inside, it should be resting on it.
 
Why would the silicon pull away from the jacket/mother mold? It's on the inside, it should be resting on it.


I have found that I need something to keep the silicon from pulling away from the inside of the fiberglass jacket. When I would turn the mold on it's side, the top will fall down. Make sense?

It is a just a small DP I am working on for the kids in the Garrison. So, I don't mind redoing it. Long as I am learning.
 
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It's always a good idea to extend the mold beyond the trim line of the helmet for a variety of reasons, one of which is to have a space to put clamps (or even clothespins) to hold the silicone in place.

Depending on the mold material, I've also used Poli-grip to hold the flexible mold in place (no kidding).
 
That was an excellent explination! Thank you for taking the time to do it. Could you offer a suggested part number for the silicone? I use oommoo but that is a purable and not strong enough for a helmet it think.

Thanks, Ben
 
That was an excellent explination! Thank you for taking the time to do it. Could you offer a suggested part number for the silicone? I use oommoo but that is a purable and not strong enough for a helmet it think.

Thanks, Ben


You could use a thixotropic to thicken the silicone
 
I used a thixotropic silicone when I cast my Tau helmet (still in progress). I had a lot of trouble getting a nice surface for the mother mold. Since it looked like icing, it was exceedingly difficult to get the silicone to lay in the mother mold when I poured the first cast, distorting the hell out of the helmet. I have been working for a couple months, while trying to get through BNCOC, fixing that issue. Not to mention you have to push it around to pick up detail. I would stick with the normal stuff.
 
Hey, How much silicone, and what brand would be suggested would be needed to do a helmet casting?
I dont want to get too much, (Its expensive) Or too little, since that would suck,
 
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