Looking for a paint recommendation...

[gunnerk19]

I just bought a Denix replica M1 Garand; I haven't received it yet, but the reviews I've seen the finish on the metal is black. I'd like to find a commonly available rattlecan paint that as closely matches a true Parkerized finish as possible. I've seen dark grey primer and paint all in ones, as well as "camo" that is close to the grey/green that Parkerization gives.

Appreciate the help. Thanks!

 

[Riceball]

I don't know if this will work or not but you could try painting the receiver and barrel in silver first and then, before it's completely dry, paint over it with a matte black. My theory is that by doing so the two paints will mix, producing a slightly silvery black which should (once again, in theory) produce a Parkerized like finish. Alternately, maybe blow some graphite dust (like pencil lead) into some wet or partially wet matte black paint.

Hope that helps some, or at least gives you some ideas to try out.

 

[AJK001]

I have no idea if it is still available but a long time ago testors used it make a color called gunmetal that was a dark grey and was not shiny so it came out looking something like a parkerized finish.

 

[TazMan2000]

I just bought a Denix replica M1 Garand; I haven't received it yet, but the reviews I've seen the finish on the metal is black. I'd like to find a commonly available rattlecan paint that as closely matches a true Parkerized finish as possible. I've seen dark grey primer and paint all in ones, as well as "camo" that is close to the grey/green that Parkerization gives.

View attachment 1305595

Appreciate the help. Thanks!

Check out a Rustoleum product called Chalked Charcoal. It’s supposed to have an ultra flat finish. I’m going to pick up a can for an M2 .50 cal 3D print. It’s the closest colour match I’ve seen so far. There are other tones as well.

TazMan2000

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

Over in the Star Wars Costumes and Props section, a few people have posted their techniques for recreating parkerized finishes on, well, anything. JOATRASH FX's post outlining his technique, and this is Boba Debt's approach (you have to scroll down in that first post a bit). Similar but distinct. The latter's dry-spraying technique is good for creating a freshly-treated look, while the former is better for creating something you want to look worn and used.

From fiddling about on my own, if you "over-burnish" Boba Debt's method with a polishing wheel instead of a paper towel, you can wear off more of the black and have more of the metal glinting through. If you have a Dremel and small polishing wheel, you can selectively do that on edges and corners and other frequently-scuffed spots. In any case, I'd suggest removing the coating it comes with to get to the bare metal underneath before you do anything. Yeah, it's more work than just grabbing a single rattle-can and calling it done, but it'll look better and wear better.