Liquid solution to remove model glue from a model?

[oswaldthegreat]

Hi, I've been working on my Bandai Resistance X-Wing recently, and I've hit a problem. I think I've accidentally put a drop of glue somewhere I shouldn't have done, and now one of the wings on it won't move, so one of the wings still open up, but one of them stays flat, so the wings end up crooked compared to the fuselage. I can't get to the glued area with my fingers, so a liquid is the only option. I know it is where the wings hinge, so is there any liquid solution I can use to pour a little bit into the hinge to remove any glue that won't destroy the plastic?
I can't really cut the model apart either, as the pieces are stuck together with male and female joints on the inside, which I can't reach.
Thanks in advance.

 

[rbeach84]

What was the glue you used? CA remover or Acetone ('fingernail polish remover') might be a choice if that was the glue you used. If you used a solvent type glue, there is no option but to mechanically deconstruct the parts. If you could see the welded section you might be able to get a thin blade into the joint to cut it free...

Solvent glues do just that - melt the parts together, effectively creating a welded joint. CA is a mechanical cement (thick how mortar works...) so can be dissolved or (again) mechanically separated.

If you used CA (Cyanoacrylate) & want to try a remover, make sure and test with some leftover sprue you've glued together to make sure it is compatible with the kit's plastic.

Hope this helps.

R/ Robert

 

[oswaldthegreat]

What was the glue you used? CA remover or Acetone ('fingernail polish remover') might be a choice if that was the glue you used. If you used a solvent type glue, there is no option but to mechanically deconstruct the parts. If you could see the welded section you might be able to get a thin blade into the joint to cut it free...

Solvent glues do just that - melt the parts together, effectively creating a welded joint. CA is a mechanical cement (thick how mortar works...) so can be dissolved or (again) mechanically separated.

If you used CA (Cyanoacrylate) & want to try a remover, make sure and test with some leftover sprue you've glued together to make sure it is compatible with the kit's plastic.

Hope this helps.

R/ Robert

Thanks for the reply, I thought that might be the case, unfortunately I used solvent cement so the pieces are welded together, and I can't disconnect the pieces, so I guess I'm going to have to live with it. Ah well, it's not that obviously when the fighter is on its stand [emoji17]

 

[rbeach84]

Just keep in mind, a plastic kit can almost always be repaired. I once took my Dremel and sawed a kit into pieces (for practice with the tool.) Later, I came back and glued in some plastic sheet to replace the removed kerf and put it all back together...

Here is a link to UMM-USA (I'm pretty sure Hannants has something comparable) where you can see the two-edged super fine saws. I've been able to deconstruct many a built model using such tools. Another method is to use a 'thread saw' - use a drill to make a hole on your cut line so you can pass a cotton thread through, then pull the taut thread back & forth to saw (same principle as a cable saw - you'd want to make handles from sprue or pencils.) Since you have the instructions, you have an idea of what the connectors are like inside which makes it much easier! I recommend practicing on some scrap plastic first to get a feel for the technique. Also, avoid synthetic threads (aka plastics) since they can melt to the model!

I also suppose, if one position is acceptable to you, you could just cut the 'disabled' wings off and reattach in the X position permanently...the classic attack pose!

Regards, Robert

 

[oswaldthegreat]

Just keep in mind, a plastic kit can almost always be repaired. I once took my Dremel and sawed a kit into pieces (for practice with the tool.) Later, I came back and glued in some plastic sheet to replace the removed kerf and put it all back together...

Here is a link to UMM-USA (I'm pretty sure Hannants has something comparable) where you can see the two-edged super fine saws. I've been able to deconstruct many a built model using such tools. Another method is to use a 'thread saw' - use a drill to make a hole on your cut line so you can pass a cotton thread through, then pull the taut thread back & forth to saw (same principle as a cable saw - you'd want to make handles from sprue or pencils.) Since you have the instructions, you have an idea of what the connectors are like inside which makes it much easier! I recommend practicing on some scrap plastic first to get a feel for the technique. Also, avoid synthetic threads (aka plastics) since they can melt to the model!

I also suppose, if one position is acceptable to you, you could just cut the 'disabled' wings off and reattach in the X position permanently...the classic attack pose!

Regards, Robert

Thanks a lot! I might try that.

 

[kruleworld]

Just keep in mind, a plastic kit can almost always be repaired.

i've bought a few "already-built" car kits (aka 'glue bombs') and disassembled them for rebuilding. most parts can by pried apart, knifed apart or even sawn apart. of course, it's usually repainted after this, so any damage can be repaired and hidden.

 

[Darth Humorous]

I’ve had luck with paint thinner or mineral spirits dribbled on a “welded” type of glue seam, but you must be vigilant not to leave it on too long. I test the seam by flexing it carefully until it is as weak as it can get, then carefully work it apart. It can become soft enough that the seam may be dug at with an exact knife. However, when it becomes that soft, you must rinse off the thinner/spirits to halt the action, even if you are not done separating the pieces. You can continue working at the seam even after the thinner/spirits has been rinsed off. The opened up seams will usually be a little ragged, but can be cleaned up. Some time must be allowed for the plastic to reharden. This method doesn’t always lend itself to every situation, nor does it always work, but for major part seams, it does well. It does better if the seam is such that it can be flexed, i.e., you may have to cut one major seam apart so be able to flex another major seam with the thinner/spirits applied.

Mark

 

[Teddz]

There's this blue alcohol that they use in lamps out here that I used to clean some putty from a joint on a plastic model and by accident found it reacted with the glue (Humbrol Liquid poly plastic cement) and it weakened the joint so much I had to glue it again. The only reason the part didn't come off was a glued tab further in from the joining line was still glued in place.

This is the stuff..

 

[oswaldthegreat]

Thanks for all the ideas, I'm currently trying to physically cut the joints, but I'm having trouble with the nose cap, which means I'm sort of stuck at the moment.
I did try using don't paint thinner to weaken the joints, but that didn't work.
Teddz, do you know what that solution might be called in English? I might try to find some if possible in the UK.

 

[Teddz]

I don't know what it's called in English other than lamp alcohol, but it's an alcohol and turpentine mix, so you may want to try some turpentine or see if they have it wherever camping supplies are found. This stuff is found in the local grocery store by the housewares stuff and the small propane camping burners. I'd send you some, but I don't know what the rules are for sending flammable stuff through the post.

 

[oswaldthegreat]

I don't know what it's called in English other than lamp alcohol, but it's an alcohol and turpentine mix, so you may want to try some turpentine or see if they have it wherever camping supplies are found. This stuff is found in the local grocery store by the housewares stuff and the small propane camping burners. I'd send you some, but I don't know what the rules are for sending flammable stuff through the post.

It's OK, you don't need to send me any, I might look into it around. However, at this point, I'm beginning to give up on it a bit, after all, it's not a particularly bad error, obviously it is visible, but I can live with it.

 

[Treadwell]

automotive brake fluid can sometimes do the trick.

 

[rbeach84]

Keep in mind, anything you use is by its nature will be a plastic solvent (if it works) because the joint is not 'glued', it is welded. So, really, what you have is plastic in the joint - not "glue".

R. Robert