But will it be as tasty!...
Here's my question of the day.
On my Bambu A1 most of the time it gives a pretty flawless print but sometimes I get a layer of stringy fibers usually it's the bottom so would that be a bed plate issue maybe I should clean it ?
From what I have seen, the stringing (described above) comes from two things, tenperature is too low or there is nothing for it to land on because it is being laid into open air instead of touching the bed or a lower layer. (further defining of different types of stringing is found in post 60, below)
But, the ultimate culprit for it happening directly at bed layer one is the initial z height. Although, many processes exist for "leveling", most printers need to have the z height adjusted into the negative numbers when stringing is occurring. A great test is to turn on "brim" or skirt for testing and see if they are glossy smooth like an ironed flat surface. If they are not and it is clearly lines on a record, the z height needs to go down. My printer required a very intense initial, MANUAL, bed adjustment in height to ALL FOUR CORNERS. Some printers do this automatically but do not be fooled by "bed surface mapping" done by the little touch tool as that is not initial bed leveling (even though the process calls it that) nor is it z height adjustment. There are 3 distinct bed leveling techniques needed on my printer:
1) The, every corner, manual raising or lowering of adjustment knobs to get the bed to within the "paper thickness" away from the nozzle when it claims to be at z height 0.
2) The further adjusting z height, in the control panel, to get brim/skirt to be flat and not individual record grooves. It should be literally smashing it out onto the surface, not oozing out a line of thread.
3) Bed mapping using the "auto leveling" feature which doesn't auto level at all but instead maps the contour of your existing non flat bed so it can adjust height as it goes to stay in contact with the bed.
And all of that ONLY MATTERS ON LAYER ONE.
After layer one, it is about temperature being too cold at the nozzle for the amount of filament coming through.
Cold can happen because the filament being used needs a higher temperature than others but can also happen if you turn the speed of travel too high and the filament cannot flow out fast enough, regardless of high temperature.
The printing into open air stringing occurs, after layer one, when you need supports but did not turn them on or on in the right way.
Although hand oils and manufacturing oils can cause stringing on layer one, requiring alcohol and soap cleaning, the number one pro tip that stopped surface adhesion issues on layer one was the application of one layer of elmer's stick glue. This is explained in an earlier post and is a solution for adhesion not stringing but will look the same if you don't notice how flat the line is. Even when height and leveling are correct, adhesion can fail and all online sources will swear it needs to be cleaned when you already did that. Try the glue trick, it is like magic and was recommended by a buddy who runs 24 simultaneous printers in his shop. Let it dry. This is why he recommends the purple "dries to clear/white" so you can tell it is dry.
