Legacy Falcon Minimalist Customization

Not Meee

Jr Member
After a bit of trial and error... my printer, even though it does very well with high quality photos on various papers, will not do well on transparancy. I have manually adjusted print settings to print darker and saturated, yet still have nearly the same results. I even doubled up the cut labels, only to see the matte opaqueness turn white grey by background depth/thickeness. I am not recommending simple Avery transparancy labels. They have excellent adhesion to most everything, but it is impossible for expecting good results. Also it scratches too easily, and moisture bleeds the inks.

I am done with experimenting, and can only say pay for a service to print your custom decals, or if your so willing find higher quality transparancy sheets. Most high quality matte transparancy labels, that I see are around $30 to $40 US. I can only recommend what I know, and if there are people here who have resources, most likely printing proper decals is not a problem.

This was not an issue with my old HP and Epson printers, but I did not hav Windows 10 back then.

Not Meee

Jr Member
Well, after some more experimenting... used up my last bit of Avery Matte Clear Labels, made for parcels not stickers. Anyway... Canon support sucks! Ha! I had read many support and forum information and found some interesting bits about printing on film, especially matte. Some complained they wanted to have the rear be clear, not opaque. Well these labels do it well. Ha! In fact if you reverse/mirror print, and place it on glass, it does a smashing job. I kid you not! Here are my images of, both doubled up labels and my darkest print with full set of overrides. Which comes out very close to what I wanted.

Take note doubled up looks too dark with front lighting... the perfect print bleeds too much light from reverse, thus becomes washed out.

I am at a quandary with what to do. Yet really like the overlapped label with back lighting.

I may try fixing the two options on milky white overhead lighting diffuser to see how well the white details look without lighting, and compare with rear lighting, before finalizing my decision. Take note the paper backing is not pure white, and blocks a bit of light. So its guess work until I obtain the proper diffuser for testing.


Not Meee

Jr Member
I just got 308 Bits, at Shapeways, parts in. They are better than expected. Though the detail may make the mold casting difficult to deal with, if the molding putty is firm when cured. I no clue to what mix works best, as I am not a pro. The mix I usually get when making impressions is a yellow and white 1 to 1 putty... which is soft and pliable when cured. The last mix I had was hard and unconforming to allow release, if used for molding.

We will see how it goes, once I receive the rest of my separate orders.

I did make another order for .010" translucent white styrine sheet. Once I get that, I can test the option of mounting the bulk head decal to a cut sheet to fit the Falcon's bulkhead section. Care will need to be done, to window out most of the bulkhead for complete backlight lighting. With the styrine being .010" i can cut windows and poke needle holes for direct light passthrough for panel lights to look brighter than the detail from backlighting.

Not Meee

Jr Member
While I am awaiting misc. stuffs to work further on my endeavor... I examined the 3D printed parts for making molds. The 77mm dish, quad cannon yoke, fuel towers, Ford F1 greebles, and hydraulic arms to the exhaust vents, all can be molded. The quad cannons are impossible for my skills, without undo damage to them. The 3D printed parts are brittle. Though the Ford F1 greebles will be tricky. The open arm, on one side, can snap off with the lightest tug. Cleaning the greeble is tricky by brush, if working on that area. One arm broke off, just by placing it on the table, unknowingly on the tip of the arm, as its own weight, was enough pressure presure to do the damage. I think the packaging with being wrapped allowed stress on the arm's weakest point of contact with the body. Easily fixed with super glue, just dip the broken end on a drip of glue and place approprately.

I think I will do partial casting, allowing the side with the open arm to leave an impression, to create an addon greeble to an axisting surface. Note, the original greeble to the Hasbro Legacy Falcon is way over sized. So I will cut off half length ways leaving a good wall to place the custom greeble arm, once created. The plan is to use as much of the Falcon's existing greeble to blend the molded sections on to. Leaving much less patch work. My goal is not to rely on painting over touch up work.

As for the mandible tips... I ordered the set to see how well they can be modded to fit the Legacy Falcon. They fit the Hasbro Rebels Falcon. My plan now, is to create a wax mold of the madible tips, and carefully fill the two LED holes. Then with dentist tools sculpt ribbing to match the existing pattern. Because the Legacy Falcon's ANH type tips are more flush than kicked out, I will try blending in the custom filled in molded center as a panel, over the section with LED holes. It should kick out the tips a wee more. I probably will need to chop off the tips and use my mold to create an extension, by cutting off a section, at the base, to create the proper look. I am also thinking to make the mandibles unserviceable, by filling the holes flush like my plan with the 3 missle holes on the nose section.

I also have been working on a modified nose attatchment option, so if one wants to use missles, they can detach the top and pop on the original toy nose. Both noses will require a small mod for the clip to secure. The nose without missles, requires more mods. Trimming the mounting posts down and shaving all the raised walls about 1/16" for placing a thin metal plate to hold the buttons and associated mechanisms. Limiting only the mods to the nose cover, and nothing else, well... outside of adding a clip, which will not effect installing an original nose with its mounting screws.

Not Meee

Jr Member
I have removed the greeble boxes on the mandibles that complete the Ford F1 greeble on the hull. Instead of cutting around them, which is fairly easy, I shaved them off, which added some difficulty. In doing so there is less of a hole, to patch with and less cutting near by greebles. As for hull F1 greebles, I have yet to complete. I figure, that I can reinforce the molded copy of the Shape Ways greeble and have it be mounted as part of the mandible, as to allow the greeble to stay as a single piece, to allow the madible to be inserted into the hull. If the geeble was to be mounted directly to the hull, there wouls be no proper clearance for alignment for assembly.

Found a bugaboo... the side panels are of differing plastic. They seem to be of the same plastic used in the bulkhead. It's sort of oily feel, and whitens when creased, rather than cracking or breaking off. My plan was to cut a portion of the top edge that overhangs, and allow a seam, like the studio version, reshape and elongate the tip to protrude as well. Since it is resistant to super glue, and I am unable to graft existing plastic from sacrificial hull parts. I just mold an appropriate section and make it part of the mandible its self.
The tips only need a custom panel to fit over the small rectangle impression for the dual lights. A simple mold will do using pyramid stacked sheets of styrine to copy how the toy's design. An added feature is the mandibles use 4 pins to power the lights. Basically 2 pins all you need, so I will disconnect the extra two pins on both hull and mandible connections, and use separate wiring to power the flashing red parking lamps at the tips, shown in the picture below.

The picture below is what I plan on with mods.
2021-12-30 06.30.26.png

Note some of the missing greebles along the sides of the nose along the hull, are found under the mandible and shuttle docking bay. I will get to molding them, as I go.

Not Meee

Jr Member
Did a minor mod to the nose section, which I also will be closing up the missle holes later on. The bars along the sides are molded so that the top greebles are part of them. I cut away the very tops of the bars so the greeble on each side is its own intity. Done just like the studio model. Was not a difficult task, yet effective. I will post an image later on. I plan on shaving the sides smooth for adding the missing greebles... the studio model has smooth sides, unlike the Hasbro toy. Once I complete both mods and ability to remove and snap in placd for the two nose pieces, I will post side by side to show the differences.

I disassembled the mandibles, and removed the lighting assemblies. The lights are real bulbs, not LED. Those will be replaced with white LED counterparts, and add wiring to allow a red flashing LED for the tip. Bonded a few segments around the bottom side of of the cut holes, from my greeble box removal, to allow a flush fit of patch from a sacrificial panel.

Contemplating on removing the bottom sections, that I sectioned off, to shorten the cannon boxes. Seems like I still have area to mount the quad cannon, even though the height is very low, being true to scale.

Problem... the gun station window is oversized as well, which pushes the cannon box ( now a waffer) and cannon, a bit further back from studio model position. Looks like I may need to modify the cannon's round base (top section). It looks like my minimalist mods are becoming not so minimalist.

Obtained the Aiva Frosty Clear sticker sheets. They are frosty but... ultra glossy. So, off I go to buy a sealer spray... luckily the reviews show the inks stay even without sealer, so I expect no bleeds with the sealer when applied. I was hoping the frosty sheets were in matte format. But none are of good quality. The few decals I made from trial and error are not up to par. Just looking at them they deteriorate. They are not even fit to use a postage labels, in my opinion! Yet they get high reviews. I guess the users only ship within state, and their state is Arizona, Texas and California. Try shipping to Washington or Oregon, I doubt the mail carrier will have any info on the label to read. Only good if you quickly place it in a vacuum sealer. Ha!

I will work on the cockpit decal and the bulkhead over the weekend, and should have something worked out and posted here soon. At least I am confident the print quality and durability will be superior to what I started with. Just did not want to coat, at first, in fear that it won't come out as planned.

Not Meee

Jr Member
I think I am worse than Solo with constantly changing the Falcon. Ha!
Updated my final edit of the bulkhead decal. The adjustments are more to film and studio with square lights and a panel re-sizing It is posted a few replies back. Here is the decal fresh off the printer, with slight adjustments to saturation and contrast. I will wait another day or two to matte cover coat, taking note how glossy it is. The difference is what I expected, but I expected shipping labels to be durable, not tater chips. Canon settings are Photo II with 15 for saturation and -10 for contrast.

Further down below is my first ever greeble attempt. Its going to be cleaned up with baking soda and super glue filler, as it's formed from a bunch of layers. I roughly rounded the edges as it looks better than sharp edges at the face of the tip. It's some what basic, but because of the distorion at the tip from oversized walls and bulking up for play safety, I had to work with keeping to the toy shape than studio.


Not Meee

Jr Member
After my 24 hrs of waiting on ink to cure on my decal... I found a few things that have made a change up to my endeavor. The sheet is water proof and holds the ink excellent. Now the issues that I must work with... The sticky glue seems to be translucent and throws off a light blue glow when the backing is peeled off. Which is unsettling, but when returned to a white substrate, the bluish tent and glow is subdued to nothing. Weird! Very gummy sticky, similar to the Avery Clear Matte shipping labels, but more tacky and will leave residue on some surfaces, like doubling up (piggy backing) labels. Very glossy and a soft feel, easy to show surface scratches, in angled light.

Here is a run down between the two label /sticker sheets.

AVERY: Clear Matte, perfect sticky side ( Wish all labels used the sticky glue), that will not effect image quality on clear substrates. Will show mirror image in sharp detail (better than the print side) when viewed from reverse. Matte surface is a thin film that is easy to damage (lifts off the vinyl). You must adjust saturation and contrast levels to print bold, as the matte coating mutes the color image, other than black. The big issue is the difficulty in printing a proper imagr reproduction, and the durability of the matte film coating.

AIVA: Frosty Clear semi-transparent sheets, gummy sticky side, which can leave residue. Image quality is excellent, just too shiney and the vinyl is a bit soft, and unable to hide minor surface scratches from angled light. An odd thing is that it seems to radiate light in blue tint when on clear surfaces. You can see a faint glow when light is directed at an angle at any cut edge of the label, which makes it similar to having its own back lighting, akin to sci-fi glass display screens. Kind of cool, if your willing to work with thin plexi-glass or other clear materials as a backing for stability.

My testing with the labels abilities, have made another option for my custom lighting's functionality. Because air bubbles are prone with this label, due to its unwieldy nature with sticky side, and the water proof and ink retension properties, I will double up (piggy back) the labels, doing the tinted glass method. A light amount of liquid soap and water, mist to cover the top of applied label, to allow the second application to cover without trapping air in pockets, and allow easier alignment.

I have not bothered with any more images of the labels, as this has grown into a broad experimentation, so to speak. Keeping my thread within the subject's boundries.

I did change my mandible tip... after playing around with looks and details with the toy mandible and the 3D printed greeble mandible tips from 308 Bits, my intial design needed more depth without making it too pointy. So a new structural and simplistic design was needed. Most of the details are already baked into the toy mandible tips, and my original was adding too much detail for what it needed to be. So here is my new version, which I need to clean up, as I had a bad fight with super glue and rounded off a corner or two. Once corrected, a base coat of epoxy paint to ready it for creating a mold.

Back side


Top side



Not Meee

Jr Member
I think I finally hit the nail on the head! I did a test run with some mule decals, to be sacrificial lambs. All I can say is don't be afraid of the water, and you won't need a bigger boat! College experience with window tints, finally paid off. Ha!

The photo below is taken using my cheap phone, so don't expect the grandest of imaging. A florescent sun light lamp, which is about the same brightness as my bulk quanity of 4.2v pure white flashlight LEDs when directly looked at. They become a light bluish tent as voltage / current is decreased. 3.2v is about the lowest I would go. I plan on using a buck inverter to drive the LEDs, which consumes very little power and is programmed to an exact voltage. A 9v battery will provide the needed power to drive my back lighting.

Essentially, I doubled up the decals... yes it makes them darker. But once some back lighting is done, it does not make much additional light to show detail, right down to looking like some of the ANH screen shots in shadowy but lit up areas.

As for the diffusion techneque... A Target shopping bag was used as primary. Two sheets of cheap kitchen rubbish bin liners were to diffuse with the overpowering lighting and crystal diffuser of the sun light lamp. The lux is about the brightness of a 150 watt bulb, though the minimum I tested with nice results (light yellowy tint), was with a 60 watt bulb, with glass crystal diffuser. Take note of some areas... the very top center, as the bottom decal cut a wee short. So the pointy tip shows how much lighter the single decal would be under the same conditions. Also there will be some lighter circle like cloudy areas. I did not take much time, just applied nicely to align and took the picture. A few days will be good enough for the water to disapate under the decal That is because the moisture under the decals has not dryed, as of yet. It would be less so, if I took the time in applying the layers evenly. The shot was done soon after application. I recommend doing the first decal over the substrate used for backlighting diffusion, and waiting a day once wrinkles and water / air pockets have been rubbed out using wet finger tips. Difficulty is medium low. No clear coat was applied, just one wee drop of mild kitchen liquid soap in a 1/8th cup of water. You csn be liberal with a sponge or just dunk the decal and apply.


Not Meee

Jr Member
Joberg, I took the plunge and ordered some thin PETG material that is opaque, when doubled up, it appears a white as the Target bag. I plan on perforating the bottom layer of the PETG, to align with the lights that I want to be noticed, similar to ANH with some brighter than others... mostly the top small round lights. This way the back lighting will mostly bring out details without being too bright, when the lights are to be brighter. There is no perfect way to make the decal be perfect without lighting, because of its scale. IMO, once a proper backlight setting is established, day or night viewing should be less of a problem, because the bulkhead is not well lit up do to placement. In fact you can barely notice Han and Chewie with room or sun lighting. By how the ship's position is in the room.

Still waiting on stuffs to mold and create lighting effects. Will start working on mandible extensions along the sides. The Legacy Toy has kept some interesting attributes from the 32" studio model, which can be used in recreating the proper extensions. So it's a matter of cutting the existing extensions off the outer side panels, at the panel breaks, shown in the 32" studio model. Only one side shows the light imprint of where to cut, which is not of much help, as there are clear markers from greebles as to properly segment. From the looks of it, the small changes to the tips will make a noticable improvement, even though they seem small, sort of like the F1 greebles, once in place things start looking better, just by being proper scale... as the finer details are lost by distance. Mostly everything out of scale makes it a bit easy to notice than having less detail. I would love to have a proper size cockpit, for the efforts, but I would be taking away what most don't have with proper scaled displays. So I make use with pimping the cockpit just enough to ignore how much it is oversized. The big issue is the small radar dish, it makes the cockpit even bigger looking. I think the quad cannon helps hide the cockpit size, but it's way too big, like one blast would take out a Corillian battle cruiser. Ha!

Slow progress, but it gives me time to think of routes I can take, as I hit road blocks. Sometime seeing one thing as you make a change, opens another possibility. Like my mandible tip change. As a base form to work with, once I create them, further details will be done. In around a weeks time, I hope to have more to share, not much else at this time to add.
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Not Meee

Jr Member
I have found new hope! At least for my mandible tips mod. I dug deeper into the odd shapes of the mandible tips and found a few images to clarify why such differences with them. In my efforts, I found that there are two distinct variances. The newly found images show I can shave off the tips and replace with the 308 Bits 3D printed parts after molding in sacrifical Hasbro plastic.

The composite image below will show its a matter of shifting the new tips to the inner edge, leaving room for custom greebles to fill the open area. The upper and lower plates that finish the side walls will be extended as well. But makes me happy knowing I can correct the Habro mold at the tips with a more accurate look, and dump my custom tip mod that was to compensate, having the boxed tip look. At least I have something to do, in shaving off and creating the greebles for molding, while awaiting for my stuffs to start with modding further.

2022-01-04 19.42.55.png

Not Meee

Jr Member
A wee bit of info for doubling up these sticker sheets as a backlit bulkhead decal. Some may be familiar with difficult wet transfer decals, when lifting they tend to tear by age or intricacies with cut angles. My old method was to submerge the part to allow the decal to slide gracefully in weightlessness without having to deal with pulling the paper away and causing strain. The same can be done with the sticker, since your dealing with a 4" square that iw very sticky. No soap is required, just a nice even layment to allow the water to allow the decal to slide gracefully over the bottom layer. Once done they cwn be removed as one onto a flat surface. With bright overhead lighting. Don't worry about a sudden grab, as a slight twist will release. Work the corners and focus on the fine details of the power monitor blocks. The ones with sectional lines for depth of lighting. They will become sharp once aligned. Don't rush, you have plenty of time to learn the proper shifting technique that works in alignment. Once you have the two sides close, focus on the horizontal border lines, as you gently shift up and down to zero in. They will become brighter and sharper. Go back and fourth with power status blocks and the very top levers (3 at top left panel) once they are sharp, most everything should line up nicely. You can gently apply finger pressure from center doorway out to the edges. Take note of water pockets, they may show as cloudy circles or misty whisps, with dark pin head spots. They will go away over time, but allowing pressure to distibute the moisture out through the sides quicken and keep alignment as it dries. I somewhat expect most modelers to know and be able to deal with such a technique, but we are dealing with a product not many have attempted with, as we all know sticky glue backing can be a box of chocolates. Like packing or scotch tape, you don't want to get the glue backing wet, as it becomes cloudy. This sticker sheet doesn't. Never bothered with the Avery postal labels, mostly because the sticky backing was perfect for lifting and replacing on a smooth surface. Tacking down a corner and alignment was straight forward. Too bad the print surface was not worth any effort.

Second note... the mandible tips, once again. Ha! I will need to use my greeble after all. It will be used as a spacer between the 308 Bits tip that I will section once I create a mold. The center of the 3D printed tip will be cut out leaving just the bottom and top sections to graft onto my custom greeble. As for how it will be placed on the tip, i plan on shaving the front half of the tip off, just before the 4 round greebles, where most of the 3D tip already has those details. The left over tip will be used as an extension to the 3D printed tip. Not quite studio, but better than what Hasbro has done. Something about plumping up the mandibles, makes me wonder why, but that's what it is. What fun, and I am not a pro! Will have pictures soon of the modified tips of the Hasbro Falcon, as to see how the custom tip will fill in what was removed. The only thing I can do before molding is to make a base plate for mounting over the cut out area, from tip removal, as to mount all the greebles and modified 3D printed tip. Since I have no info to recreate the wee greebles perfectly, I will do it the Hasbro way, make shapes that come close visually. Ha!

Not Meee

Jr Member
I did some work on the tips and applied the double layered decal of my final bulkhead revision. Pictured below. I have yet to clean the surface after it had dried some. The cloudy image is residue. Still waiting for it to completely dry. The image again is compromised by my phone's abilities. Note this is with some over head lighting and on a writing board.


Here is some work done to the tips... I will mold the opposite side's side panel plates to replace the ones I cut off, as they are more appropriate for looks.

I may be able to use the 3D printed tips without mods... it will requore a wee bit of fudging, but I have a feeling the center panel that has the head light, will look a wee small because of the overly plump look of the mandible. We will see, as I do have the option of replacing with a wee wider center to compensate.


Here is the parts that will be replaced by the ones I removed on the opposite mandible.



Not Meee

Jr Member
As for the swappable nose, it's been in constant change. That is why I have kept from doing any more than placing my ideas on the table. Was about to make it happen, when creating the half macaroni greeble to be placed along the side near the edge of the hull. It did not look right, so again back to searching. Not very many shots of the nose head on, but there was a noticable plumpness to close off the opening between the upper and lower. Because I want to keep the option of reverting back without any difficulty, as there will be original parts set asside for returning to OEM.

I looked at options to allow the top to be modified, since the bottom is not in view mostly. So my plan now is to make the top nose modular, unlike the shell that allows the hull section to be unmolested. Cutting the top nose off with it being mounted to the hull nose protrusion, goes away from original plan. But still allows swappable noses, without effecting looks internally and externally. In doing so I can trim off the thicker bottom border that closes up the gap between upper and lower nose sections. Thus making the mandibles less plump looking while doing the same for the top nose section. The bottom was unforseen, so that will have to be looked at another day, when disassembly is done for the internal swapping of my custom mods.

I know, the lower nose section will look like a Jay Lenno chin, but it's the top that has primary concern for now. Who knows, maybe the bottom nose section is made like the top, and will allow the same mods to be done? If so I can removd the bottom cannon and its gaping cutout, to make it look clean.

I was a bit knackered so not much was done, i plan on making the base greebles to mount the modified molded copies of 308 bits tips on to, recreate the car sub frames to the inner side panels, and look for any scrap clear acrylic as a new backing to the original bulkhead, which is solid plastic. I WILL Need to remove 75% of the backing of the original bulkhead for light pass-through, to allow even backlighting.

The opaque panels should be here by the weekend, so I should be able to post images of my near finalized back panel looks with proper backlighting. The decal peel off sheet, while in place is not a really good way to show the decal's looks.

Not Meee

Jr Member
Did some work on the mandibles... never ending story. Decided the tip placement by Hasbro, had been shifted to the outer side by 2mm, in making proper alignment for my mods. So off with their heads! Well the tip head thst is. That part is coming soon. Images show the shift and what I have done.

The car frame on thr inner side panels just did not look right, having cleared it out, I can recreate a nicer looking part that adds to the overall looks. Can't believe a simple tip change, has become a bit of rework.

The nose is almost completed, with chopping off the extra material, to make it close up the gap between upper and lower nose sections. Did not snap up a shot of it assembled with bottom plate. At all that it needs, is some of my MEK putty mix to fill the seams, buttons and missle holes, with a wee clean up. Simplicity of cutting off the lower plate at the center plate under the top nose section, is all that is required to make that section swapable, without further disassembly, once a clip is made, to replace the screw hold down. Note the white greeble, to be molded and placed on both sides, as shown.


Not Meee

Jr Member
I had enough time double up another decal, this time only setting the paper to photo semi-glossy only, without any overrides. Below is a comparison with my saturated and high contrast version along side. I think overriding is not required, as it is easier to see details, without washing them out, in using a back light. Note, it may take a few days to allow the double layer decal to dry properly, before applying.

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Not Meee

Jr Member
Obtained my clear sheets of PET, for easy cutting, while being firm enough to hold stationary as a replacement bulkhead. Windowed out the original bulkhead, but made the big mistake of cutting from behind, while using the impression from factory molding process as a guideline. Not thinking of the face, having the segmented cushions along the sides of the doorway.

Should have the opaque film to for the decals soon. I will do the original dark and lighter versions to compare how they turn out, and allow for any needed adjustments.

Tried a few casting options, the best so far is Silicone caulk and cornstarch.
Made a few molds for the greebles, and 77mm dish. The dish and cannon arm are done in a two segment mold. The rest seem to work good as impression mold.

Until all greebels are molded, I won't start pouring the Hasbro plastic MEK misture, in layers, the first being more liquidy being thined enough to cover details. Once the first layer has firmed up, a molasses consistancy to fill.

Not Meee

Jr Member
Update... the silicone / cornstarch worked well, but don't bother on some anti stick coating on large items. The 77mm dish looked like a Rebels Flacon piece. Ha! So I will do another run clean and squeaky. I figured the back side being very intricately greebled at the center, would get stuck with this untried stuff. It appears all the other parts did well enough, not to worry about such a problem, unless its the Ford F1 boxes. I doubt once a proper mold has been done, its a one time shot with the 3D part. Them wee arms are in the mold, removing snaps them off. Argh!

Got the final bits to create a new bulkhead, so I an start on comparing how well the dark vs light decal works. I have 2 levels of opaqueness and variable lighting to boot!

Not Meee

Jr Member
Another update... I did not bother posting a comparison between original darker override and normal print. Normal print wins hands down, just had to boost yellow a wee bit for it to look good without backlight turned on. Though it will be dark in the cockpit, so only so much one can do. Waiting for the new batch to dry, and apply the decals, once more.

I decided to use the mylar opaque sheet, doubled up, like the decals. They are thin enough as expected to allow more clarity, less white background to allow some adjustments, give or take.

One more try with the 77mm dish. Did an almost perfect frontal copy. My mix needed to be a wee less sticky. You need some stickyness to hold details in, when pressing and forming such a large item.

Will start on cheeze grating my plastic bits, soon. Ha! Actually will be rasping them into a powder. Will make two types of batches, as I prefer to do the chemical thing all at once. Luckily its wintery cold, so garage being an icebox, will make the pouring of the molds go nicely. Gives some time before the MEK evaporates too much to get in all the importatant places.

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