learning to paint/airbrush...advice

Weequay

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, this is something I really need to get into so i thought I would ask your advice.

Does anyone have any links to sites or books etc for learning to paint and use an airbrush?

Im mostly interested in full size busts, and would also like a grounding in the basic technical aspects (paint type, equipment etc).

For example, what are my paint options if my bust is in resin? or Latex? or Silicone?

Im looking around at and have found some recources already, but thought I would ask the experts here.

Thanks guys
Weequay
 
i used to use humbrol enamels through my airbrush but now its almost all tamiya paints, they dry a lot quicker.

i still use humbrol for washes as it wont attack the tamiya underneath.

for painting silicone busts as far as i know oil paints in more silicone is used.

latex sorry i don't know, i think you need a flexible medium to add to your paint,also prosaide as a adhesion layer.
.
here are some real bust painting experts
TheEffectsLab.com :: View topic - Latex Mask Painting Demo

-z
 
Silicone is kinda hard to paint, as so many things just dont stick to it. For silicone the best solution is diluted silicone (Xylene dilutes it) with pigments added. Silicone bonds to itself for good so the paint will become a permanent part of the bust. If you were casting yourself, the perfect option would be to tint the silicone to get an initial hue and then paint over it. There are also alcohol activated make-up meant for silicone appliances, it gives you nice results though I have never used it in a permanent piece so whether it would stand the test of time, I don't know.

Whatever the medium, the basics are the same. Once you master the color technique for, lets say getting skin look realistic, you can apply that to different mediums easily.

As for equipment, many have personal preferences. I use an Iwata HP-C Plus airbrush which has served me really well in modeling that requires fine detail as well as prop building and also make-up. Whatever airbrush you use, the absolute key is cleaning. I really can't stress the importance of cleaning enough, it is vital. another thing linked directly to cleaning is using paints that are thinned enough, filtered even. Especially with fine detail airbrushes the tolerances are so tight that a tiny speck of dried paint inside the airbrush will affect your result. Airbrushes are a high maintenance thing! They're also slow to work with. Not only it takes time to clean them between colors (assuming you have one brush without changeable paint jars), you really need to work in very thin layers to get good results. It is very tempting to do a good coverage with an airbrush (been there) in one go. Overall, you just need to be aware of the characteristics of airbrush work, the dos and donts. It is a rewarding tool.

In airbrushing, one thing you really should invest in is a compressor. Preferably one with a tank, as tankless comps can have a pulsating airflow. With a tank you get a steady pressure which is kinda important. You won't get that with car tires or cans of compressed air. And you need to be able to adjust the pressure as different mediums and different types of work may need different airpressure. Moisture trap is also neccessary so you dont get any water from the air supply. Most comps I have seen have had the moisture trap in them. Some like to use an in-line moisture trap as well to make sure there really is no water in the airflow.

Whether its an airbrush or a regular one you'll be using, the most important thing is to practice. Paint as much as you can, you'll only get better by doing it. You'll learn a lot about paints and techniques that way. As for reading, look in model building magazines, maybe make-up FX books, go to modeling websites and search for articles and tutorials. Best of luck!
 
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Lots of practice, I agree.

Paint generally should be thinned to the consistency of milk; much thinner than for brush painting, but the airbrush gives you the opportunity to do many thin coats and the right air\paint mix can give very quick drying coats.

To begin with I would thin paints with their recommended thinners.

I have just started using Vallejo Air paints; they are ready mixed for airbrush use (although I thin them further) they have fine pigments, cover well and clean up easily.

Priming is important. I use Tamiya spray cans or Vallejo Air Primer at present, but Games Workshop and Halfords (car) primers have been fine too.

Most airbrushing books have an artist/illustrator bias....but all techniques are useful. The Complete Manualof Airbrushing Techniques ( Owen & Rollason) andThe Airbrushing Book (Hicks ) are both worth a look.

The latter uses the Aztek airbrush which is what I use.

I have never painted silicone, but fear that paint adhesion will be the tricky bit....however the paint is applied.

Airbrushing resin is fine if it is cleaned/degreased and suitably primed.

One thing I learned, unlike spray cans, an airbrush paint job will not cover poor preparation. Seams, pits, filler etc will leap out at you.

Save yourself from this grief and buy some Micromesh abrasives so that you can get a good surface finish before you paint.

....and, yes, get a tank compressor, expensive in the short term, but best.
 
Looks like much has already been covered.There are some really god Air Brushing books you can find cheaper than purchasing from an art store or or Barnes&Nobel on Amazon,.I;'m sorry,the titles escape me at the moment.paint as follows,you have a wide arrangement of paints to choose from.

Resin/reg. commerical model kits:

Arcylics (which also includes acrylic inks which if applied correctly make for incredible results)

Enamels,many brands to choose from:

Testors

Model Master

Humbrol

Lacquers (if you can find them)

Testors/ some Model Master (in the can) I think?

If you really know what you are doing, urethane paints would work especially well w/urethane resin kits.Lots on the market to choose from I think?

Latex based paint:

You can make baloon paints which is a combination of liquid latex combined w/acrylics,and perhaps other water based paints might also work?

PAX is the more "industry standard" for painting foam latex. Go to Burman Industries (google search),I don't know where else to look?

PAX is the flexible/clear binder combined w/acrylics thinned w/distilled water for airbrushing(or hand painting)


Silicone:There are a couple paint/pigment brands to choose from

Psycho paint which is a pigment made just for tinting/pigmenting silicone combined w/clear silicone base thinned with mineral/white spirits.You usually have a good 15-20 min. before the paint base "sets" as well as a "matting powder" that will allow you to achieve a flat/matte surface instead of being stuck w/ a glossy finish which silicone will do.I forget who makes/carries it.


There is another brand,but the manufacturer escapes me.

I've also heard of some guys using clear silicone caulking (the kind in a tube at hardeware stores) mixed w/oil paints&thinned with mineral/white spirits,but I don't know the exact paint to silicone ratio.To much paint will inhibit cure,thinned too much might also mess with the silicone setting?I've heard that you don't want to exceed 5% paint to silicone,and it being a clear medium and good oil paints have a high pigment concentration...a little bit would go a long way I suispect?Again,I don't know of the sucess or results of painting/airbrushing this way.

*NOTE*-I think it may be important to know what silicone your model is cast of (whether is is a Tin or Platinum based silicone).

Check out Smooth-On and go from there


Urethane rubber based paints: again,check out Smooth-On,ask questions
 
You can read for years on techniques, but nothing beats experience. All you can do is practice, practice and practice some more.

If you want a starting point for suggestions as to paint preferences, look for 2 members on here - Chewie15 and Camper. Howard and Jeff (respectively) are some the best of the old timers on here. I'm sure we have new guys on here who are just as good, but those 2 are guys whose work has impressed me for a long time.

-Fred
 
NO.Silcone will not adhere to a plastic surface(it even has difficulty adhereing to itself),but a urethane paint(or other paint),or urethane rubber based paint will(if prepped correctly).Urethane paint or rubber(pretty much anything urethane based) will stick to just about everything say for a few type of plastics.However, urethane rubber based paint for painting on urethane rubber surfaces tend to be opaque in color and lack translucency unless it is heavily thinned into a wash.I've seen some incredible paint jobs on 1:1 scale busts (and other scales)using just acrylics w/acrylic inks because much of the time the acrylic inks are translucent or transparent and you are able to lay down thin coats(or washes/dry brushing w/use of pastels) in multiple layers,thus adding realisim to your subject/model.I highly suggest you purchase the the David Fisher tutorials DVD's from Amazing Figure Modeler and watch what he does and develope your own technique based on his videos.It is an invaluable learning tool I.M.O.
 
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Just wanted to say a big thankyou to everyone who posted. Going to go over this tonight and get some equipment together.

I already have an airbrush and comp although I dont know that they are suitable for this type of work, but to begin with ill try and find out :)

I will also look into the txts/dvds you guys have listed.

Practice is one thing, but I need a basis in the technical or im just going to be throwing paint around lol

weequay
 
I've been using Humbrol Enamel also, it's really good quality - Cheap too. I don't know what to say apart from use the right brush sizes and a personal tip that I do is that when I'm painting detail, I always hold my breath so my hand doesn't nudge. I've only had experience with Humbrol so my view is pretty much pointless, thought I'd try to chip in.

Thanks!
 
Practice is one thing, but I need a basis in the technical or im just going to be throwing paint around lol

haha, you may think you do, but you don't. Practice. You'll be A-OK. One bottle of paint through the brush is worth a thousand books.
 
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