Kylo Ren Junk Saber Build

JJ Griffin

Sr Member
Getting this bad boy modeled. Will print it off our Taz 4, clean it, beat the tar out of it, and mold it for casting (either cold cast or resin). The infamous "red wire" will not be apart of the mold but attached afterwards. This will be hollow to allow for the insertion of electronics and saber blades. Here's what was most likely the rubber "stunt" saber on display at C7:

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Here's our progress thus far:

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:) Thanks for reading
 

BorbaFett

New Member
i'm totally new to all of this, so forgive me if this is already common knowledge. i was at celebration, and the saber said "3D printed." so i'm not sure if it was rubber. looked more like plastic to me.
 

clembot

Active Member
Rad! Would be amazing if you could somehow texturise the blades (when you get to that) or make the ends jagged to get that "sputtering" effect!
 

JJ Griffin

Sr Member
i'm totally new to all of this, so forgive me if this is already common knowledge. i was at celebration, and the saber said "3D printed." so i'm not sure if it was rubber. looked more like plastic to me.
I know that's what the plaque said, but I believe it is either a resin or rubber "stunt" cast (with maybe the Hero version being 3D printed). As another poster pointed out, it has some pretty ugly seam lines as well as what is presumably a lot of loss in detail, both of which are common in rubber casts.

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JJ Griffin

Sr Member
All credit goes to the incredible Lael Lee! Our real work comes later... :) Loving the feedback, guys, if there are any changes you want to see made now's the time!
 

ARKM

Sr Member
I guess it all depends on how close you want to get it the one at Celebration Anaheim 2015. Don't get me wrong, what you've done so far is excellent but there are places where to me, it's not accurate to the prop from Celebration. Also, if you are going to design it to take electronics, you have to decide what blade thickness to use. When it comes to blades that light up, only 1 percent of 1 percent of custom saber owners have ever used blades smaller than 3/4" in diameter. However, to stay true to the prop, you would probably have to go 5/8" in diameter for all three blades. This could make it hard to sell. However upping the blade diameter to 3/4" dia. will make it look noticeably different from the actual prop. Maybe a poll thread for this would be a good idea to see if people are willing to go for 5/8" dia. for accuracy's sake or would prefer some inaccuracies in order to use the more common 3/4" dia. blades.

Another possible issue is that I noticed in your render that you have included the "male" part of the clip that goes into the "female" part of the clip on the belt. You might want to leave that part out so that people can screw on the real clip once it's sourced and found (or made anew by machinists). Just my two cents.
 

JJ Griffin

Sr Member
I guess it all depends on how close you want to get it the one at Celebration Anaheim 2015. Don't get me wrong, what you've done so far is excellent but there are places where to me, it's not accurate to the prop from Celebration. Also, if you are going to design it to take electronics, you have to decide what blade thickness to use. When it comes to blades that light up, only 1 percent of 1 percent of custom saber owners have ever used blades smaller than 3/4" in diameter. However, to stay true to the prop, you would probably have to go 5/8" in diameter for all three blades. This could make it hard to sell. However upping the blade diameter to 3/4" dia. will make it look noticeably different from the actual prop. Maybe a poll thread for this would be a good idea to see if people are willing to go for 5/8" dia. for accuracy's sake or would prefer some inaccuracies in order to use the more common 3/4" dia. blades.

Another possible issue is that I noticed in your render that you have included the "male" part of the clip that goes into the "female" part of the clip on the belt. You might want to leave that part out so that people can screw on the real clip once it's sourced and found (or made anew by machinists). Just my two cents.
Thanks for all that! The plan at the moment is to make the main emitter accept 1" and the side emitters take 3/4". If people want to use smaller blades, we will machine "fitters" to slot into the socket to bring them down to other sizes, maybe, but we want to go for the two most common sizes of blades (thankfully also the largest), since you can always narrow a larger socket down, but there's no way to make a small socket bigger.

If you can point out the areas where you see inaccuracies in MSPaint or something, it'd be a huge help!

And yeah, we actually decided tonight to simply leave the clip off. We'll 3D print it separately to offer as well for people to screw on or add their own if another source is found.
 

ARKM

Sr Member
Sure thing. I hope I'm being helpful.

If my interpretation of the dimensions of the prop are accurate (and that's a big "if"), the reason the two side blades would have to be 5/8" in dia. is because the tube that holds the blade is only 3/4" in dia. with a 1/16" thick wall, with the half shroud being cut from a pipe that is either 7/8" or 15/16" in dia. with either a 1/16" or 3/32" thick wall. As such, using a smaller dia. blade with an adapter tube to fit a 3/4" socket is not going to help your version look more accurate. I'm only referring to what I think the dimensions of the actual prop are when the light saber is "turned off" and what that real prop can accommodate blade wise. Personally I think that the main blade emitter is only 1" to 1-1/16" in diameter which would also mean using a blade less than 1" in dia. Again, this is only my opinion, I could easily be off in what I think the dimensions are.

Other than that, as to what looks off to me in your render is... I think that the angle of the half shrouds on each half pipe looks too long and as such, not steep enough, the area where the side pipe half shroud meets the hilt main body should not have the gap that is does and that the top "shoulder" that appears to be the same diameter as the half shrouds are too far away from the main blade emitter. Here's a pic...



Basically I think that the areas in between the arrows are to far apart and the other red slash shows more of what I think the half shroud angle should be.

I have 28 different pics (no duplicates) of Kylo Ren's saber from Celebration that I gleaned off the net. Please let me know if you want me to zip them up for you and upload them to dropbox if you think they will be of any help.
 

KaanE

Sr Member
The only and one thing I would change would be the depth of the cutout. It looks to be deeper on the original prop than on the render. I mean, pushing deeper the electronic bits inside the cut.
 

JJ Griffin

Sr Member
The only and one thing I would change would be the depth of the cutout. It looks to be deeper on the original prop than on the render. I mean, pushing deeper the electronic bits inside the cut.
Thanks KaanE, it would be awesome if we could inset that portion further but unfortunately we need to maintain an internal diameter of 1.25" throughout the entirety of the prop, and insetting that "sunken" portion any further beneath the surface would mean we'd have to make the rest of the prop much more bulky in order to maintain that. Maybe if that damage was in a different spot we could "cheat" but unfortunately for a "functional" lightsaber the LED heatsinks pretty much go EXACTLY where that damage is. :/ Although if anyone has any suggestions for ways to work around this restriction we'd love to hear 'em. :)
 

JJ Griffin

Sr Member
Well, I never had the functional idea in my head... LOL
Oh, haha! Yeah we figured making them able to be "functional" stunt sabers would make them more useful to more of the community.

Here's a few pics from better angles to show the depth of the "internal" section. Lael really tried to get it as deep as he could:

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