JPH
Sr Member
Thanks again for the great pics TheDarkPope
Kosh Play
- Thread starter JPH
- Start date
JPH
Sr Member
I clamped another right angle on both ends of the sculpt, then poured in Sorta Clear 40.
Make sure it is level
Clay packed on the front and rear to keep thw Sorta Clear contained
After demolding, I can use the clamped U channel to pour the flipped-over mold.
Make sure it is level
Clay packed on the front and rear to keep thw Sorta Clear contained
After demolding, I can use the clamped U channel to pour the flipped-over mold.
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JPH
Sr Member
*Hands a tissue*
Nevertheless a great work of art, sir
Thanks!
JPH
Sr Member
Sculpted the hot rod pipes perfect, only to etch them up.
Made the wrinkles for the pipe mouths with the same string-through-a-center-hole technique.
I will make a mold out of dragonskin then slush cast in Task 16. The pipes need to be firm, but not totally rigid. They stick out the sides of an already large body and I dont want it catching on a doorframe. If it does, a little give is safer than falling or breaking the piece.
I've been doing more. Stained glass is ready for colored resin, stained glass effect.
The sashes need to be stuck together.
The helmet is going to be in two pieces, lookibg for a perfect, reproducivle fit.
More to come when Im in da mood
Made the wrinkles for the pipe mouths with the same string-through-a-center-hole technique.
I will make a mold out of dragonskin then slush cast in Task 16. The pipes need to be firm, but not totally rigid. They stick out the sides of an already large body and I dont want it catching on a doorframe. If it does, a little give is safer than falling or breaking the piece.
I've been doing more. Stained glass is ready for colored resin, stained glass effect.
The sashes need to be stuck together.
The helmet is going to be in two pieces, lookibg for a perfect, reproducivle fit.
More to come when Im in da mood
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JPH
Sr Member
So, the bibs are done.
They were 3D printed then cast in Mold Star, I believe.
The center bib was printed in 2 pieces. I just printed 60% of the top and 60% of the bottom, made a mold out of the 60% piece and then interlocked the second half of the piece to make one, complete mold.
I have been playing with pigments and powders for the stained glass pieces. I really like "Interference Powders." I got a kit with samples of 6 different pearl Interference powders and ran some test on Moana stones
If you are interested in how to make a pearly look, just use two or three interference powders, like violet, green and pink. Mix each in their own portion of clear resin, then pour them in seperately.
The white stained glass has the same effect, so now I am pretty confident about being a solid 47% accurate on these.
Next, I need to do the exciting color match of stained glass in refernece pics to the bib. I think DarhPope's pics show an old costume. I will make them look bright and pretty, and, as usual, if it needs to got from pristine to lived-in look, I will weather accordingly.
They were 3D printed then cast in Mold Star, I believe.
The center bib was printed in 2 pieces. I just printed 60% of the top and 60% of the bottom, made a mold out of the 60% piece and then interlocked the second half of the piece to make one, complete mold.
I have been playing with pigments and powders for the stained glass pieces. I really like "Interference Powders." I got a kit with samples of 6 different pearl Interference powders and ran some test on Moana stones
If you are interested in how to make a pearly look, just use two or three interference powders, like violet, green and pink. Mix each in their own portion of clear resin, then pour them in seperately.
The white stained glass has the same effect, so now I am pretty confident about being a solid 47% accurate on these.
Next, I need to do the exciting color match of stained glass in refernece pics to the bib. I think DarhPope's pics show an old costume. I will make them look bright and pretty, and, as usual, if it needs to got from pristine to lived-in look, I will weather accordingly.
Attachments
JPH
Sr Member
The sash stuff be poured.
I theee-eenk the images on it are supposed to tell a story, but the patterns are also very close to looking repetitive, except for neato stuff like the spider.
So, I will prolly flip the designs so that they line up differently.
Something like
TOP
BOTTOM
***connected to***
BOTTOM
TOP
and
BOTTOM
TOP
***connected to***
TOP
BOTTOM
I will connect pieces with some Sil-poxy and then a light coat of dark brown/black resin to help the colors match better. If they are too floppy, maybe a thin aluminum right angle to add rigidity.
The Kosh costume appears to have a sheet of styrene behind the fabric, so that the fabric didnt back up into the actor when they moved forward.
I theee-eenk the images on it are supposed to tell a story, but the patterns are also very close to looking repetitive, except for neato stuff like the spider.
So, I will prolly flip the designs so that they line up differently.
Something like
TOP
BOTTOM
***connected to***
BOTTOM
TOP
and
BOTTOM
TOP
***connected to***
TOP
BOTTOM
I will connect pieces with some Sil-poxy and then a light coat of dark brown/black resin to help the colors match better. If they are too floppy, maybe a thin aluminum right angle to add rigidity.
The Kosh costume appears to have a sheet of styrene behind the fabric, so that the fabric didnt back up into the actor when they moved forward.
Attachments
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