Kermit the Frog here! V2 finished. V1 patterns posted!

Now for tests 2 and 3. The process was the same as above so I'll just put some notes and pics here.

Test #2 ECL pattern 8.5"
Same pattern as above, but scaled down a bit. The overall fit was much better but it was still pretty baggy in some places. As expected, this will most likely be the base pattern that I do modifications on. Kermit looks kinda disappointed in me in the first pic :(. Sorry buddy, I'll get it right eventually.
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Test #3 Facebook pattern
There is a pattern that I grabbed off of a Facebook group, and the maker did make it as a theoretical pattern as it had not been tested yet. I wanted to give it a try and see what the results would be to compare. It had some aspects that were good, but was a little baggy in areas that ECLs wasn't. I will take some of the things I liked and try to use them to adjust the ECL pattern.
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The other thing that I did while making this head is stitching tests. I tried a more exact whip stitch, a ladder stitch, and a stitch that I saw on a Swazzle video. Anti-pill fleece does not hide seams well at all, which is apparently why it isn't usually used in Muppet style puppet building. Because of this, I figured that if something worked well on the anti-pill it would work all the better on the better fleece. Hopefully. The Swazzle stitch won by a landslide. The seam was barely visible. I used it for half of the top of the head. The video for this is titled "Sewing puppet fleece with an invisible seam, Live Puppet Building Tutorial". It's basically a whip stitch but you only sew in and out of the middle and very bottom of the substrate of the fleece, kinda weaving the 2 pieces together. I also think doing it side by side means little to no bunching effect.

Now, I do want to mention that puppet fleece hides seams REALLY well, so sewing like the demonstration shows is not required. I'll do more tests of various stitches and how they affect basic fleece and various puppet fleece seams.

Since this stitch was supposed to be sewn with the 2 pieces of fabric side by side rather than on top of one another, I put little lines to make sure alignment was correct as I went along. I think this is something I will carry through future builds regardless of sewing method.
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Normal stitch
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Swazzle style stitch (top half of seam)
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That's it for today. Tomorrow I'll enter the world of pattern modification. I still want to try the Master Replicas pattern and see what results that yields but I am out of ink, so it'll have to wait.

Lessons Learned:
1) Small changes yield HUGE results
2) Thimbles exist for a reason
3) Using an iPhone in one hand to take pictures of a puppet on your other is difficult AF
Do you have that pattern still by any chance? My puppet didn't turn out quite well.

Greqt job!
Jay
 
Do you have that pattern still by any chance? My puppet didn't turn out quite well.

Greqt job!
Jay
Thanks!! I will definitely be posting my final patterns from this build but I am holding off until I have completed making this version since I have found that I'm going back to make adjustments as I attach things together. The only patterns left to make are the arms and legs, so it shouldn't be that much longer!
 
Hey all! So I had to take a break from building for a bit but I'm back in action. I spent the past week working on the collar, and going back and re-doing the lining. As I called out before, I really screwed up sewing the seams of the liner which was causing them to rip post-installation due to the nature of the fabric. I watched some videos and tested a few things and landed on using a combination of a zig-zag stitch and straight stitch to make a basic overlocking seam. This worked great! Illustration below to kinda show how the 2 stitches should be made. The zig-zag needs to just clip the outside of the fabric edge as that's what locks the weave in and prevents fraying.
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For the updated pattern, I basically just combined my head pattern and the inner body sleeve pattern like so. It was just slightly smaller than I could print, so I made it without seam allowances and just hand drew those on the fabric itself. I'll probably have to break this up when I post my patterns so that I can include seam allowances and folks can easily print and just tape it together.
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In order to remove the original linings I carefully picked the seams, removing the entire head, and inner linings. I also had to use a hair dryer on the warm setting to soften the contact adhesive and completely disassemble the head from the mouth plate. So basically, I didn't work on building anything for 2 weeks and then spent a week undoing another weeks worth of work. :lol: It was worth it though. No progress pics of the disassembly or new lining, but I took a picture showing what it looks like inside now. I won't be attaching the bottom of the lining until I'm close to the end, that way it won't get in the way if I need to access the interior while sewing. I also didn't want to catch it when sewing on the collar. This way, I can just tuck it into the head and keep it out of the way for now.
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This also gave me the opportunity to re-do the mouth as the tongue wasn't the right color and the uvula was slightly off axis. I didn't have a nice high quality felt int he right color for the tongue but I did have a scrap of cheap acrylic felt that was the right color. Making that change was absolutely the right decision. I also made different templates to help align everything.
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I also decided to knock out the collar. I have spent WAY too much money buying tons of felts in various shades of yellow-green and none have matched the color I'm looking for. I went with one for now but have resigned myself to the fact that I'll probably have to custom dye in order to get the color I want. I am waiting on one more that is being shipped from the UK but if anybody has found a felt that is ready to go as-is, please drop a link! I'm trying to go for a nice heavy 100% wool felt so that is limiting choices a fair bit.

To make the collar pattern, I used cues from ECL to use a semi-circle based pattern. First step was measuring the circumference of the neck and this was a bit of a challenge. I stuffed the neck to make sure it was at its maximum diameter but just raising or lowering the measuring tape by a mere millimeter or two yielded vastly different results. I went through a few paper test collars until I got it right.

Once I had the circumference, I doubled it and used the new 2x size as my basis for the interior cut that attaches to his neck. Remember, I'm doing a semi circle pattern, so the circles have to be twice the diameters of my actual measurements. I then had to figure out the proportions of the triangles. I took some measurements of a scaled photo and played around with things until I got it to line up. I can't remember if these screenshots are from the final pattern or not, as I made many tiny adjustments. The funny thing was that after all that work, it ended up lining up with ECL's almost perfectly. But I'm annoyingly stubborn and wanted to do it myself from scratch, haha.
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One thing that I noticed when looking at some high-res photos of the real Kermit, is that the collar isn't ladder stitched on. At first, I thought that it was maybe a modified blanket stitch but realized that wouldn't be feasible. I then realized that it was most likely a simple whip stitch, like most of what the muppets are built using. I can't remember if I posted this tid-bit before but I listen to Matt Vogel's amazing podcast "Below the Frame" where he spends 90-120 minutes talking with his fellow puppeteers, puppet wranglers, builders, miscellaneous Sesame Street/Muppet personnel. One episode was with Rollie Krewson, who has been a muppet builder since The Muppet Show and she said definitively that what we call the "Henson Stitch" was always taught internally as a basic, very fine, whip stitch. She said that people can use the ladder stitch or baseball stitch as needed but that going back to her training from Don Sahlin, it was a whip stitch whenever possible. Anyway, back to the matter at hand. Here are some images from 2 different Kermits showing that the collar attachment it is more of a spaced out whip stitch.
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The color felt that I ended up using is pretty cheap wool acrylic blend and not tightly woven. Because of this, I wasn't able to really sew as close to the edge as I wanted, otherwise the thread would just rip the felt. I wasn't thrilled with this because the stitches are too visible. That's part of the reason that I'm still on the hunt for a good quality collar felt. I also realized that I should have spaced my stitches out a but more but it was a bit late to turn back since I didn't think the felt would hold up to removing the stitches and starting over- so I just continued on trying to keep the spacing that I started with.
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Next on the agenda- arms and hands
 
The general consensus that I've found online is that it's best to use 8 of the kind of petal/leaf shapes so that's what I went with, but as you can see in post #21, I kind of combined them. On my final-ish pattern, I cut out the one piece of foam by using the pattern that I made and flipping it on the dotted line and cutting out the remaining half. My final piece of foam has 7 segments at the top (a bit wide one in the middle), and 8 at the bottom, all one piece. The left and right edge get glued together to form the back. This is still a WIP though, so I haven't yet uploaded my final patterns that are sized appropriately, and with instructions, as is my intent when I'm done with the remaining steps.
 
If you're happy and you know it clap your hands! That's right, it's been hands and arms week here at bk85's House of Muppets.

I have been thinking about the hands in the back of my mind for a while now because I needed to decide on a shape for the arm rods. I definitely want removable arm rods, but don't love the idea of having to stitch or pin part of the pocket closed for flag rods. I thought about the L shape end to the rod but I happened to see an instagram post by Rick Lyon that shows an ingenious way to make removable arm rods. I'll have my next post focused on the arm rods but long story short, I needed a square shaped hole to receive the arm rod. Whereas the interior stabilizing part of the palm of a lot of Kermit replicas I've seen are normally made out of cut plastic, I decided to 3d print mine. I went through a few different iterations, refining it as I went along.

Basically, Kermit's fingers are fleece wrapped around a bendable wire. That wire is attached to a trapezoid plastic plate in his palm, which is also what the arm rod attaches to. I first made a template of the hand shape in Illustrator after taking some measurements from various photos.
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I then took the trapezoid shape, imported it into Blender and made a 3d object. I also beveled the corners while I was at it.
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Still being a total amateur in 3d modeling, boolean modifiers are my go to for adjusting a shape. I basically created other shapes and subtracted them from the trapezoid. I'll spare you the various iterations and just go straight to the one I based on the Rick Lyon arm rod. I created a square hole that will receive the arm rod, 5 holes for the finger wires, and I also tapered it a bit so that it got thinner the closer it got to the fingers.
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I then printed two of them out in white PLA+. I also epoxied a segment of a 5/32" square brass rod that I scuffed up for better adhesion. The brass is just there to be a more durable sleeve that will eventually receive the 1/8" square brass tip of my arm rods. I thought about just making the hole dimensions smaller during the design process and forgoing the brass sleeve, but I was worried the plastic would erode too fast. The key to this type of arm rod connection is a nice, tight, secure fit because there is no locking mechanism.
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After the above was done, I ground down the rod to be mostly flush with the plastic. I then took some 20 gauge tinned copper wire and slipped lengths of it through the holes in the palm plate. I next took the two ends of the wire, popped them in my drill and slowly twisted them to lock them and provide more structure. I didn't worry about the length, I just made sure I had more enough length for the fingers and thumb. I'll trim these to the correct lengths in a bit. I then remembered I had come clear epoxy (which I wish I used for the brass fitting) and used that to make sure the wires were extra secure and locked into place.
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Time to move on to the fleece! One thing I noticed just about every high quality picture of Kermit, is that the arm seam runs along the inside of his arm, going from armpit to up the center of the palm and and then it makes a kind of funky shape. I believe this is because Kermit's arm rods aren't the traditional shape and are instead wrapped around the palm plate. In order to remove and reattach them, you have to open up the hand, take them out, and sew it back up again. Either it's to make that easier, or just because that's what somebody did to the pattern at one point, and everybody followed suit. Either way, I couldn't wrap my head around the geometry so I decide to forgo it. I also didn't want the arm seam to run along the side that has the thumb since that is the side presented to the audience the most. I went with a seam long the back of the arm, meaning the thumb would have to be slipped through a slit in the middle of the pattern. Here are 2 images that I sued as my main reference for the hands/arms. The first one is a 70's Kermit and the other is Jim's last Kermit. I will eventually redo my body so that it matches the proportions of the final Kermit, because I just prefer that look and after comparing it to earlier lower res pictures of Kermit on Jim's hand, it matches the shape better than the references I was originally using that are all museum displays. But that's a task for a later time.
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One other thing I noticed is that Kermit's fingers aren't 2 pieces of fleece glued together, but one single piece per finger that is wrapped around the wire. The fold of the thumb faces down, the folds of the index, middle, and ring fingers face the thumb, and the fold of the pinky faces outward away from the hand. Originally I was going to just double the finger/thumb shape but then realized that simple rectangle shapes would be best so that I could trim each finger into shape after gluing/folding.
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I cut out the shapes, and sewed up the arms using a whip stitch. I stopped stitching right at the ends of where the arm rod will go, as the rest of the hand will be ladder stitched.
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Now, back to work on the hands. I cut a little slit in the base of each finger because it will wrap around the plastic palm plate by about 1/4". I should have only done this to the middle 2 fingers but didn't realize it until I was almost done. Oh well, next time. I also cut the wire to length. I cut it the length of each finger, knowing that I would be folding over the tip to bring it just under sized. The fold is just so that the wire doesn't accidentally poke through the fabric. I also added a dab of hot glue to each tip to prevent this even more.
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Since the fabric tends to suck up the adhesive, I brushed a bit of contact cement on the inside of each finger, and let that fully dry. I then re-applied a super light coating of the adhesive again now that the previous application had "sealed" up the fabric. I also added a bit of adhesive to the finger wires and the finger and thumb edges of the plastic. Time to start folding.
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Next, I trimmed each finger and thumb to give it the appropriate shape and clean up the non-folded edges.
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The time has come to insert it into the arm and connect everything together. I trimmed down the fuzziness of the base of the fingers that are attached to the plate, just to help reduce bulk. I also trimmed the bottom of them so that there was a nice straight line in case it shows through the top of the arm/hand fleece. I applied more contact cement to the entire palm plate, and to some of the inside of the fleece so that it would adhere nicely. Once the hand was attached, I ladder stitched the remaining part of the hand and around the fingers/thumb to make sure everything was secure and the seam/attachment points looked as clean as possible. I could use some more practice on this as it was serviceable, but not necessarily up to my standards. It looks good from afar, but when you get up close, you can see some of the stitches.
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Then, I stuffed the arms with poly-fil, making sure to clamp the arm halfway through to prevent poly-fil from bulking out the elbow. FYI, I think I'll be using 1/4 inch foam for the arms in my next attempt.
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Finally, I ladder stitched the arms to the body. The proportions are distorted in the picture making it look worse, but they are ever so slightly too big for this body shape. That being said, I'm going to keep the pattern as-is because they'll look a lot better when I do my larger v2 body. Also, once the green sleeve is attached to the bottom, I think it will help them look more proportional.
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The final step was acting a few drops of super glue around the arm rod hole to keep the fleece in place and help prevent accidental wear and tear.
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Next up- Arm rods!
 
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For the arm rods, I shamelessly stole an idea from a puppeteer named Rick Lyon who previously worked on a bunch of Henson productions but is probably best known as one of the main puppeteers and creator/builder of the Avenue Q Puppets. He posted a pic on instagram showing a squared tip to his arm rods which fits into a slightly larger square tube in the hand like I did above. I really liked this idea because it is so simple but effective- especially if you get the tolerances right. I knew I had to try it. As you can see in my previous post where I just stuck an 1/8" rod in the hand as a test, it worked out well.

To make the arm rods, I bought some 3/32" welding rods for the main part of of the rod, a 5/32" OD brass square tube, and a 1/8" OD brass square tube from Amazon. The tubes were made by K&S precision metals, and they worked really really well. The tolerances were perfect. The welding rod slipped in the 1/8" and the 1/8" perfectly slipped into the 5/32".

The first step was cutting the 36" welding rod down to the proper size. For this I just cut one in half with my knockoff dremel, which gave me two appropriately sized lengths. I also scuffed up the areas that would come into contact with epoxy for the tip and the handle. I then cut two 3/4 inch pieces of the 1/8" brass tube, and sanded the edges down to take a tiny bit more length off and make sure the cut edges were smooth. You don't really want any brass showing while you're using them, so the tips should be ever so slightly shorter than the receiving area of the hand plate. I then epoxied the welding rods into the brass tubes.
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I waited for the epoxy to cure then cleaned up the brass with some fine sandpaper and slipped on some shrink tubing to cover the round part of the rod and heated it up. It was time to worry about the handles. I tend to gravitate towards 3d printing so I figured I'd print some up. I didn't want them to be hard plastic, but I also knew that they needed to be firm and secure. I decided to make each handle 2 parts. An inner core that is printed in my go to of PLA+ and then an outer sleeve made of TPU which is a soft plastic that is almost like a firm rubber. I forgot to take pics of the prints, but the inner core is an almost 5" long cylinder that has an off center hole at the top that goes about halfway down for the welding rod to be secured. I then made a sleeve that covered the top and sides of that, also with a little cutout for the welding rod. I made the sleeve's welding rod hole slightly larger so that the shrink wrap could sink into it just a little and minimize the appearance of joins. When I printed the sleeve, I used something called fuzzy skin which gave a really nice grip-able texture to the outside.

To attach all of the pieces, I had to slip the sleeve on first and push it out of the way. I then epoxied the rod into the handle core, and slipped the sleeve down to cover it all up. (BTW, these STL files will be included when I post the patterns).
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That's it for the arm rods! A lot of words, but not a lot of work. It was very simple and worked much better than I had hoped. I've never tried to solder, but I might give it a go as a way to attach the brass tips next time. Getting the epoxy in that small brass tip was a massive pain... and messy.
 
Frog legs! Frog legs! Frog legs so fine! Hopper's is the place you should dine! There's cheese legs, bacon legs, chili legs too! French fried frog legs, BBQ! If you want just a snack, then here is the one- a frog leg burger on a bright green bun!

As we near the end of the build, it's time to add some legs to the poor guy. I made up a quick pattern of the legs and feet. I mostly relied on previously made patterns for the legs, but I still made quite a few adjustments. I made the legs wider, adjusted the taper, symmetrized the shape, and adjusted the length. For the feet, I made quite a few adjustments on patterns before just starting from scratch, combining some things of the patterns and source images.

Once I had those done, I cut them out. I had a head that I never used and I decided to use that scrap for the feet. One tip that I learned was if a piece of fleece isn't being sewn to anything, apply a thin layer of contact cement on the pattern line and let it dry before cutting. This helps keep the edges nice and neat. I used this technique for the fleece parts of the feet. I then sewed up the leg tubes.
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One thing to note is that the pattern of the leg tubes has a curve at the top. This is to help them follow the curve of the body when attaching. They go out to the sides a fair bit, so a straight cut at the top might not let his legs sit as straight out as you'd like.
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Next step was to attach the fleece part of the foot to the leg. I did it at this step as it's easier for me to stitch 2 pieces of fabric without anything impeding my ability to sew. I'm going back and forth if I want to use a hole in the foot of my next pattern to do a whip stitch rather than a ladder stitch (like it is in the MR pattern). I don't know though...
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Time to finish up the foot. The foot, top to bottom, has layers of fleece, a stuffing, a plastic egg shaped plate (which I 3d printed), and then the bottom layer of felt. I used contact cement between each layer. The felt should be the same that is used on the collar. I tried stuffing it with fiber fill but that was a hot mess. I had fibers going everywhere, couldn't keep them contained, they were gluing and getting stuck to areas I didn't want them- it was horrible. I tried removing the fiber as best I could and switched to some of the 1/2" foam that I used for the body. I cut out a piece of that, glued it to the plastic plate and trimmed it to the proportions I was looking for. I then slapped some glue on the felt and attached everything together before cutting off the excess felt. My foot pattern should have been a bit wider to account for the volume of the fleece/polyfil. It was a bit of a struggle getting them to attach to the felt. I should have taken this into account when tracing reference images, but lesson learned!
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Having a little fun after stuffing the legs with the fiber fill. Like the arms, I left a gap in the middle for the knee joint.
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To attach them to the body, I laid out where the should actually go and traced John Wick coin (gotta use what you have!) onto the body to help keep track when stitching. I used a ladder stitch for this.
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Not much else to do. Tomorrow I'll add on the arm sleeve and finish him up by finally giving him eyes.
 
And we're at the finish line. All that was left on Kermit was to add the eyes, sew the inner liner to the bottom, and make and add the arm sleeve.

I did all of this at once, and the order was eyes, liner attachment, arm sleeve attachment. I'm going to save instructions/pics of the eye step for last on this post so that we can have a big reveal, because that's when a lump of green fleece became Kermit.

I previously left the liner unattached at the bottom so that I could stuff it in the head so it's out of the way and I could attach the eyes attach between the liner and the fleece, then put the liner back into place and attach the bottom. The thought was that this would be a bit more comfortable on the hand, and also not lock the liner into place at the top of the skull. Once I installed the eyes, I sewed up the bottom of the arm sleeve to the bottom of Kermit. I used a ladder stitch with black thread, to match the flannel lining. It disappeared really well in the fleece, but even if it didn't, the seam would have been covered by the arm liner.
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Now I made the arm sleeve that helps hide the puppeteers arm if it accidentally gets in the shot. This was super simple (once I figured out how to sew through up to 4 layers of fleece on my sewing machine). First step was cutting out a rectangle of fleece that was 9x12 inches. I made a hem along one of the 12" sides. I didn't want to include boning in the hem this time around, but that is definitely an option. I just didn't have a good foot for getting super close to the boning. I really didn't want a 3/4-1 inch hem. Once I had the hem sewn in, I put the two 9" sides facing each other and sewed about 3/8" seam. going over the part that had the hem already sewn was a challenge but I was eventually able to make it work by turning the sewing foot pressure down to 0 right at the hemline. I was already using a roller foot attachment so that helped it feed through the machine as well. No pics of the progress but here's one after it's sewn up, and after it was ladder stitched into place.
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Now for the most important step, the eyes. Like I said, this is what really turns him into Kermit. Rather than ping pong balls, I 3d modeled and printed a half dome eye. The dome part has an insert for a screw that I also modeled. The screw has a round base on it that is just shy of the diameter of the dome. This was to account for the thickness of the fleece and prevent him from having a faint bulge around the base of the eye. The reason the screw head has that 45 degree bevel where it meets the plate is to also help lock in the fleece.
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Next step was to sand, fill, prime, sand, prime, and paint the eyes. I used an ultra matte white spray paint, but then decided to top it off with 2 coats of a standard matte top coat. Attaching the eyes was relatively simple. I used the magnetic temp eyes that I previously made early on in the build and used those find the best placement. I think I nailed it!
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What?! Nobody asked for a Muppet remake of Pan's Labyrinth? Fine... I'll do it the "normal way".

Once the magnetic eyes were put into place, I traced them in the disappearing ink, and made a hole in the center with an awl. I made a couple of snips to make a plus sign at the hole and allow room for the screw to feed through. Then I screwed on the eyes, double checked placement, unscrewed the eyes, added a drop of super glue to each screw, and reattached the eyes. all while being extra careful to not let the posts move at all.
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Final step was securing the pupils. I cut out a few different sizes on my Cricut, using the black adhesive velvet/flocked paper. One thing I did was use a lint roller on it before and after the cut which helped make the edges much crisper. I tried out a few sizes, eventually settling on 15/16". To attach them, I placed the very tip of a sewing pin to the edge of the sticky side and used that to help me find the right eye focus. To look good on camera, the eyes need to be ever so slightly cross-eyed, so that they're looking just beyond the tip of his mouth plate. If you make them look straight ahead, he ends up having a wall-eyed appearance and it makes him look very un-Kermit like. Well enough talking, time to show the final result! I'm super proud of him. Just because he's a prototype, I did make him with the same care I would a final puppet, and as you saw, remade some parts that weren't up to snuff. There are still a few things that I want to change in my next version but I'm going to enjoy this moment for a bit. Once he was finished, I had so much joy just staring at him for a while. Having Kermit look at me totally made me a giddy child again. Doing this build was 1000% worth it, and I hope you can find the time and resources to make one of your own, if you haven't already.

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Including my patterns and .stl files that I used on this print. Ive included both 8.5x11 and 11x17 page sizes. The larger one is best because it prevents patterns from having to be broken apart and re-attached, but I know not everyone has access to a printer that can handle that sized paper. Enjoy!

Edit: Removed the patterns due to a mistake. I originally thought the felt I used was "Limelight" but it was actually "Outdoor Retreat". PDFs have been updated. Sorry, I ordered about 20 different felts and got it confused a bit at the end. Funny thing is I found a better one after I sewed the Collar on. :)
 

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Just in case anybody already downloaded my patterns- I just made an adjustment to post 50, and the patterns themselves. I named the wrong felt for the collar.
 
Oh wow, for some reason I stopped getting the thread notifications so I'm a bit behind on updates!

Incredible job with this build, you have a great eye for detail and the patience to keep trying over and over until you get the result you want. And it's hugely generous of you to provide your patterns for the rest of us to use... I have some extra Frog Nylafleece from my original Kermit build, I think I'll be using that to give your pattern a try.
 
I decided to start tweaking some things. Slight playing around with patterns/proportions but mostly experimenting with construction methods and a couple of material changes. For this Kermit, I'm going for a standard legless puppet which has a longer body. I also adjusted my head pattern to have a bit more cheek. I didn't think to post about it until today, so I didn't take progress pics but a lot of the basics are the same from before. Order of operations is just a bit different.

One thing that I wanted to try was having holes in the fleece torso into which I could sew his arms with a more secure whip stitch, rather than attaching them after the fact with a ladder stitch. I also decided to NOT attach the body fleece to the body, but sew it to the head first. Basically Kermit's exterior on this one is sewn up into a single piece and then slipped over the body afterwards.

I also decided to make tubes out of 1/4" foam for his arms, rather than fiber fill. Didn't like that as much so I'll use fiber fill moving forward... or carving cylinders out of 1" foam. I also changed the hand size to make them smaller, and stitch the arm/hand with the seam running down the inside of the arm through the palm, like the original. I also experimented with stitching the arm by machine and it turned out much better than I expected.

For the body, I changed up the shape a bit to fit this style of puppet better and I did individual leaves of foam, rather than the connected version I had before. No reason in particular- just playing with methods.

I also went with poly foam everywhere rather than reticulated. I actually like it more, and the fact that it's not nearly as expensive is a huge upside. I also went with a much better felt for the collar. It's "prickly pear" from feltbetter (feltmuchbetter on Etsy UK). They don't normally ship to the US but the owner was happy to when I messaged them off to the side. The color is a much better match and the quality is a million times better than the previous one. I also decided to use a 10oz chartreuse duck canvas from Big Duck Canvas as a liner, rather than the felt. I also glued the liner to the mouth plate as before but I also used my sewing machine to stitch it on and make it even more secure. I also changed up the type of boning that I used.

I also experimented with printing a mouth plate out of flexible TPU. I like it but I still need to play around with the print settings to make the most of its properties.

I'm mostly done, just need to add the eyes, stitch the bottom of the liner to the bottom of the body fleece and add an arm sleeve. Here are some pics of where I'm at now, and a couple of comparison pics of some body/hand changes.

Liner attached to the mouth plate, attached to the fleece head.
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Inner view of new arm attachment method.
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Outer covering without the foam body.
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New hand shape, with each finger trimmed to the correct relative length.
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Inside
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Body comparison. V1 on the left.
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Different collar felts. V1 on the left.
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Hand comparison. V1 on the top.
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I also just started a Beaker build today. I'm just working out proportions and everything now but I'll start up a separate thread for him when it's time!
 
Finished up Kermit 2 tonight! It's nice to see him all put together. I am happy I tried out the new techniques and pattern modifications. There are definitely some things I'll carry over to the next build and some that I probably won't. The head is relatively the same size, but I scaled down the eyes to 38 mm with 7/8" pupils. I think they are a better fit than the earlier version. I think I'll keep the new mouth plate, new eye size. I'll probably combine the 2 body patterns to find a happy medium, same with the head, and the hands.

I definitely like the new way of making the entire body/head skin and slipping it over the foam. I might actually try to machine stitch the head/body/arm sleeve together because there's no real reason to hand stitch those pieces. In fact, I might try to machine stitch the whole thing just out of curiosity to see the difference after picking seams.

I also used a flexible tubing for the bottom of the arm sleeve and I really like that too. I made it removable so that the arm sleeve can tuck in the body when not in use.

I can post these patterns if there is interest but I think that my v1 patterns are still a little better overall so I'm probably going to hold off unless I get asked. Especially since I think v3 will be started/finished within the next month or two.

Arm sleeve:
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IMG_2150.JPG
IMG_2151.JPG
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V1 has legs, v2 does not:
IMG_2143.JPG
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IMG_2147 2.JPG
 
Finished up Kermit 2 tonight! It's nice to see him all put together. I am happy I tried out the new techniques and pattern modifications. There are definitely some things I'll carry over to the next build and some that I probably won't. The head is relatively the same size, but I scaled down the eyes to 38 mm with 7/8" pupils. I think they are a better fit than the earlier version. I think I'll keep the new mouth plate, new eye size. I'll probably combine the 2 body patterns to find a happy medium, same with the head, and the hands.

I definitely like the new way of making the entire body/head skin and slipping it over the foam. I might actually try to machine stitch the head/body/arm sleeve together because there's no real reason to hand stitch those pieces. In fact, I might try to machine stitch the whole thing just out of curiosity to see the difference after picking seams.

I also used a flexible tubing for the bottom of the arm sleeve and I really like that too. I made it removable so that the arm sleeve can tuck in the body when not in use.

I can post these patterns if there is interest but I think that my v1 patterns are still a little better overall so I'm probably going to hold off unless I get asked. Especially since I think v3 will be started/finished within the next month or two.

Arm sleeve:
View attachment 1868155View attachment 1868156View attachment 1868157View attachment 1868158

V1 has legs, v2 does not:
View attachment 1868152View attachment 1868151View attachment 1868153View attachment 1868154

I just know they make me smile. Excellent post.
 
So, I've decided that I need money for additional materials more than 2 Kermits and have decided to put the v2 one from above in the Junkyard. I just couldn't part with my first build, I guess I'm sentimental like that :).
 
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