K7 Bluebird 1/43 scale model

I made a new tip for the fin, as the one that comes with the kit, has a pitot tube cast into it that's just a sewing needle.
I purchased a brass Pitot tube for it that's made for a 1/48 scale Wildcat aircraft.
The whole tail fin is actually quite fun to fit, as it only takes a second and sort of leaps out from your grasp, landing itself perfectly into position due to the housing inside with the magnet.
 

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Here is the other side. I've heard of some aircraft having the flag the other way up on the right hand side, not sure why.
The flag in the photos are original. When they restored the boat, they carefully masked over the flags and painted around them.
 

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Some added detail to the tailpipe.
Also a close up shot of the new joint between the front spar and the sponson, which I think is acceptable as a panel line without filling.
 

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Does anyone know what the thinnest clear acrylic/perspex is available?
I need to make the clear splash guards that fit on each side of the cockpit that prevented water getting into the air intakes.

I want the proper acrylic stuff, like what's normally available in 3mm to 5mm, like what's used for acrylic display cases or helmet prop lenses.
Whenever I search for this in 0.3mm or 0.5mm, the results are either always PETG plastic, or leave me wondering if it is PETG.
I want to avoid the softer clear sheet like what's used in dolls houses if possible.
Acrylic/perspex can be bonded with invisible glue and it's also much more scratchy resistant,
 
I used the framework/sprue from some photo-etched stuff to make the splash guard mounts. The wider section at the rear of the mounts made it a tricky job, as I had to cut away the upper edge forward of the wider section.
 

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Thank you, I hope so.

We made another trip to see Bluebird today at Coniston so I could get some more reference photos. Turns out I need to make a new headrest.

Nothing to do with the model, but these tree branches haven't changed much in over 57 years!
 

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The engraved panel lines had been bugging me from the start, so I finally decided to get rid of them.
I masked off each side of every panel line, right up to their edges and neatly filled them bit by bit, before removing the masking tape.
This way I was only left with thin bands of filler to sand, so as not to affect the finishing work I had previously done too much.
Doing it this way also meant that if any filling work was ever slightly visible through the finished paintwork, it would only be in the form of thin panel lines anyway, rather than a camouflage pattern of filling work.
 

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I'm going to get a set of these Archer rivet decals for the panel detail. They are tiny resin rivets on a decal carrier film.
Only problem is they are not available in the UK, so I'm going to have to order them from the US.
 

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I'm going to get a set of these Archer rivet decals for the panel detail. They are tiny resin rivets on a decal carrier film.
Only problem is they are not available in the UK, so I'm going to have to order them from the US.
I have the same but in old '70s Letraset;)
 
I ordered the rivet decals from the US today.
I also purchased a set of smaller scale archer rivets decals that I found on a model railway website for sale here in the UK for just £6.
I will use the smaller rivets for the overall panel work and the large ones for the engine cover and side panels.
This model will have cost a fair bit by the time it's finished!
 
The rest of the panel lines are done and I'm very pleased with them.
Please excuse the poor photos.
 

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