Judge Dreed Lawgiver Mark II (SD Studios)

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by erv, Feb 15, 2012.

  1. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    I thought I will post a build log of a kit I bought from SD studios. I recently proposed to provide a new version of a Lawgiver version of my Blaster Core sound board.
    It's almost done, that build log is meant to serve as a visual guide for the install of the electronics, for those who will do it themselves.

    mine has a few little variants from what SD has proposed for his fully built LG but overall, the principles remain the same. The main difference is that I used a model gun as I wanted a display piece with realistic looking bullets. I know, it's a pain to load and clean but I don't expect to use PFC aside of a couple of demos. Another LG with an airsoft is planned too anyway.


    Also, this thread will help (I hope) people to patient a little bit more and see the possibilities of the electronics.

    so... I started that project when the kit was first sold, then paused cause I didn't have a place to spray paint... back at work on it again. I finished blaster core v4 3 weeks ago and had the plan to port the LG firmware on it, and things converged pretty fast in the past 2 weeks, after tuning specs with SD studios.

    _________________________________________________________

    Long tribulations to source a beretta M9 model gun to France, what a mess. I ended up in japan with semi ghost company and couldn't get the shells, then sourced the shells in the UK but now I'm almost sure they are too short. Designed for a M84, juuuust a bit shorter, the new PFC won't bang properly as they don't perforate, so they bang, blow back but no smoke and no sound LOL
    [actually leaves some expression possibilities for the BC4]

    Recent pics of stuff I did a year ago (already ? really ?)

    satin paint job is decent but perfectible

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    ammo clip in place with foot part
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    threaded holes for slide attachement
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    adding the greebly on the reload mechanism. Per discussion with SD, a 2 pin system was a good solution (and JB weld)
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    Glued !
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    Still have to paint the second half of the gun. To protect the silver area, I used Mecanorma tape, old school PCB design technique to protect what you don't want to etch. Good tack, removable residues (very little) and paint/water proof.
    [​IMG]

    Then maskol (latex paint) to seal thin tape with blue painter's tape and ready to go !
    [​IMG]
     
  2. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    another view
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    mag release greeblie. Threading both sides and giving a clean shave cut to the knob with the lathe.

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    4mm M3 set screw is perfect for the job
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    done
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    Lever after 2 coats of silver with the airbrush (I keep practicing) : invisible pins (almost... the camera sees them but I don't)

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    I finished the paint job on the remain half. As I'm not sure of the paint I used for the 1st one, I took the risk to add one extra coat of satin black to ensure "color" (if I can say so) and mosly gloss level are the same.
     
  3. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    some progress.

    right side shell was too thick for my model gun slide. That's the last trimming required to have the kit fitting that very gun (very few mods, really, just dremelling here and there)
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    installing clear styrene backing so that I have something to glue the leds on later.
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    Installing some wires, checking length
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    Speaker install - to be tested but the eye piece could provide a small rear resonant chamber
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    Hall effect sensor that I'll use for the main trigger and ammo clip detection
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    Experimenting with dyed resin for the red windows (SD idea). Didn't find the right pigment but that glass stain / paint seems perfect. It's solvent based so it should mix well with the glazing resin
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    First test is too weak, second one is good but the color pigments have "migrated" in the corners. Still, the shade starts to be nice
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    To be continued. I should get prototype PCBs for the side leds this week. Leds have been selected and tested individually, so I just need the panels to start the actual and final wiring of my prop, and validate the electronics, then ship a prototype.

    A video demo will follow very soon.
     
    Thibault likes this.
  4. Ford W Maverick

    Ford W Maverick Well-Known Member

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    That's looking sweet!
     
  5. SD Studios

    SD Studios Well-Known Member

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    Looking good! I just wanted to follow up...

    A lot of these details are being incorporated into the SD build-ups. I am finishing up the replicas over the next few weeks, so when the electronics start showing up, I can install and ship.

    Erv has been most-generous with working with me on special boards programmed to my specifications for this project. There was a LOT to go over. We have probably exchanged fifty e-mails so far. Seriously.

    Mike Goobic sampled and cleaned up all of the sound effects from the film for me, and Erv added a few of his own.

    A BIG box just showed up yesterday from Mouser Electronics, so I am swimming in switches, levers, batteries, buttons, speakers, etc etc...

    These are going to be pretty amazing!

    All of the airsoft Berettas have been converted and the kit parts have been here for a while, so I am all set on my end!

    I will get back in touch with everyone who bought a full build shortly. We will only have a limited number of electronics sets, so the full models get them first. The remainder will be offered to the kit buyers on a first-come-first-served basis.

    The build-ups and kits are all SOLD OUT. Thanks to everyone who bought one!
     
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  6. PeterLC

    PeterLC Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If only I could get some kind of toy gun with a mechansim into Australia. Airsoft is not allowed at all. I tried to get a PFC Mauser broomhandle into the country but luckily I asked first. No no they said. That's a replica of a select fire weapon and that is a no-no. A Beretta M92 isn't a select fire gun though is it?
     
  7. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    mine isn't, some PFC are (YT corp ?), usually with a 3rd position of the safety lock (like on airsoft). I was that close to get my MG from a UK company which finally went out of business for medical reasons it seems :cry

    my bad. I'm lucky he doesn't hate me now :) I reduced the number of emails sent but instead he got larger ones (go figure). There was seriously a lot of things to adjust and decide in a short time, then make sure we're all talking about the same things.

    @Peter : is there a way you can ask for a permit to import replicas ? I feel bad for your aussie guys :unsure
     
  8. LDR

    LDR Sr Member

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    This is a great tutorial!

    I have SDS kit pacekd away, and a PFC dolpin ready for this build.

    Its great to see how you modified your PFC to add the relevant buttons etc.

    I might need some tips from you (and maybe some work doing!).

    Thanks for the tutorial!

    Lewis
     
  9. Supa troop

    Supa troop Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    this is a really cool thread and one il be watching constantly
     
  10. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    very welcome. Nothing special as the casts were very good quality. Feel free to post / PM if you have specific questions or if I can help.
     
  11. cosmic_x

    cosmic_x Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the tutorial, subscribed!

    Do you have a rough estimation when we will be able to purchase the electronics kit?
     
  12. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to produce between 25 and 50 boards asap then ship them so that they can be packed with the rest of the electronics (leds, switches, speaker). My schedule remains unsure but I should have a proto to send out by the end of the week, average delay France-USA is 10 days, the board will be reviewed and tested for validation (or tweaking) at the very beginning of march. In the meanwhile boards will have been assembled and tested so I'll just need to flash the final firmware in them.
    Once I get the green light (hopefully in early march), I'll ship the boards to SD studios (add another 10 days - 2 week delay to get them to the US). That's the best, theoretical+hypothetic case.
    After that, depending on the demand, I might propose just the board and the side led panels from my website (but not the rest) if there's other people interested. The goal is for now to supply enough boards for the full builds and the kits purchased from SD studios (if I understood correctly).
     
  13. Supa troop

    Supa troop Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hope you dont mind me adding this picture to your thread.

    But this is my fully working Blow Back Baretta with the SD Studios Hollow resin cast kit.

    Also the LEDS are Erv's cant wait to install the full electronics kit when they are done

    [​IMG]
     
  14. cosmic_x

    cosmic_x Well-Known Member

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    Not sure what the goal is, my goal is to get an electronics kit since I already purchased the LG kit from SD Studios last summer.

    So even we in europe will have to purchase the Kit from SD Studios? Kinda weird, since these will be done in France why to reimport and pay higher shipping costs plus import taxes, or did I misunderstand something?
     
  15. Supa troop

    Supa troop Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    im sure Erv is shipping these direct or am i wrong :confused
     
  16. Thoth

    Thoth New Member

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    Outstanding pic! Nice work! Great looking kit, that's for sure.
     
  17. SD Studios

    SD Studios Well-Known Member

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    I am buying enough circuits for the Hero builds that I have to get done. Plus some spares for kit buyers.

    I will then do the final assembly here using the gazillion parts I just bought from Mouser...micro switches, batteries, pressure sensors, wrapping wire, etc. Erv is only supplying unwired boards to me.

    If anyone is in Europe, YES of course, you can get them directly from Erv. We will coordinate so that the price is the same for everyone, so as to be fair. Got yer backs, bros!

    When we are ready, I will contact everyone on my mailing list privately via e-mail. There will only be a limited number available as they are expensive and complex to build and have features that weren't available on earlier BC kits (eg; Erv had custom-printed LED boards made for this project...He is also using my cleaned-up sound files, plus some custom ones he made specifically for these SD replicas, Special, super-thin, wide-angle LEDs have been purchased, etc etc...)

    So please don't ask additional questions here...they aren't done, we don't have final pricing yet, and we don't know much more than that.

    All in good time...soooooon. :lol
     
  18. cosmic_x

    cosmic_x Well-Known Member

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    sounds good Steve, thanks!
     
  19. mandio222

    mandio222 Active Member

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    awful movie awesome gun
     
  20. Noeland

    Noeland Sr Member

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    That is one impressive and cool build.
     
  21. gyoung2993

    gyoung2993 Sr Member

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    I wish I had one of those SD kits ,that looks sweet.........
     
  22. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    some progress. Converging quickly to the final thing... Nice, after a year :unsure

    Side leds. White SMD leds, low profile enough to fit under the gun even with the PCB.
    Those white leds have a large beam with the additive that produces the white light. The whole yellow area becomes white with a large angle.

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    and they are SUPER BRIGHT (even at 10mA)
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    [img width=462 height=768]http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Lawgiver/Lawgiver_MkII_32.jpg[/img]

    diffusion test with 7-segment display filter
    as expected, too close = beam / spot
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    at a few mm of distance, you start diffusing.
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    Assembling some side panels PCBs for those leds
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    let's start the assembly / wiring. I frosted the clear styrene backing with 240 grit sandpaper to improve initial diffusion. I also inclined the PCBs to avoid a direct light beaming thru the windows. Board is secured with double sided foam tape. You'll notice the flashing PCB extension so that I can keep working on the firmware without disassembling anything.
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    tidy wiring :045:
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    with the gun installed
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    Rear lights. Assembled on some perf-board that I also use to install the hall effect sensor of the trigger (those are part of my customization, SDS full builds will use switches which isn't worse or anything). I just love those sensors, but they for sure complicate the install an require some more wires to be routed.
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    Made some more space on the trigger mechanism, as the magnetic sensor a the perf-board + wires were eating up a couple of precious mm.
    I also drilled the rod to install the magnet.
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    Second panel on the left half of the gun
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    I made the install at 99% on the right side of the gun. This way it's easy to disassemble.
    The aux. switch (ammo selection) is at the top of the grip. The magazine sensor is also a magnetic sensor with a small magnet installed in a recessed area of the mag. It will be painted "gun metal" later to have it merely invisible.
    To activate the aux. switch, you just need to squeeze the handle in a certain way.

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    Almost there. Missing the red windows. Off to the hobby shop today to find some alcohol based inks to dye the resin.
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    The bullet view with the slide locked is what made me choose the model gun for that prop.
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    lights
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    Battery setup. Works for both 9V battery and 2 x li-ion cells (14500)
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    switch isn't final, not happy with the placement of this one, I'll fix this today
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  23. cosmic_x

    cosmic_x Well-Known Member

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    great progress Erv!

    When are we going to see the YouTube video? :love
     
  24. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    soon :)
    I just need to finish the red windows and a few details.
     
  25. Thibault

    Thibault Sr Member

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    Erv....

    You are my hero... !

    That's awesome !
     
  26. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    Slide rear mod : the second screw of the rear block can't go deep in and as the slide is fibered plastic, no way the threading can resist to the blow-back on the long term. I don't like to epoxy parts that might need service, so I placed a M3 self threading insert with JB weld.
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    then moded the 6/32 screw with a M3 insert, to keep the look of the original screw.

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    Time for filling the side windows (ammo leds)...
    scary operation for me as I'm a resin NOOB

    I found some good alcohol based inks, which mixes well with resin : alcohol evaporates and leaves just the pigments, compared to the glass stain/paint which has some transparent resin/linker which doesn't harden like the glazing resin itself. The result of my first try was nice but I needed too much glass paint to get the right shade and transparency, the resin took ages to cure and isn't hard enough.

    Those are aquarelle (watercolor) inks for illustration, comics etc. Lucky me the magenta has the inflammable logo which means it's alcohol based but not ALL colors have the sign so I'm not sure they would all mix well with the resin.
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    first minute of mixing gave a chewing-gum pinky look to the mixture and I freaked out.
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    After one night of curing, the color was a nice signal red, still a little too magenta for me (but hey, that's what was written on the canister).

    For my final attempt I decided to add also the crimson red glass paint to darken the color and it ended very well. I prepared more resin too, which helps for stirring and mixing.
    Rule is hardener first, then resin. It cures over 24h, so no rush, take your time to mix, grab what's on the sides of the cup.
    Added the color, mixed again, let sit for a while to have bubbles climbing up. The color with thicken the mixture, so leave the clear mix sit for a while to get rid of bubble, then mix the color, let sit again (10 minutes). Transfer the mix to another cup without shaking, that helps removing bubbles too and ensures you don't have any unmixed resin or hardener left in your new cup.

    then use a 2D level to have your work on a perfectly horizontal plane. That resin is VERY THIN and will go everywhere (thanks for the warning, SD). You'd better have everything under (the clear styrene, if you remember) perfectly sealed. In any case, any hole / cavity will be filled up, so be prepared for the next 4-6 hours to monitor how it goes and refill when needed (I couldn't source glazing resin with 90 min curing time... and I don't feel like playing with additives yet)

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    testing the lights and the shade
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    So far so good. I had to make some resin again cause reaching the gel time took forever and the basement is barely at 19°C (not complaining but a bit low for resin curing). Gel time is like 4-6 hours. You need at least that time to make sure you won't have a window that will almost totally empty during the cure time.
    You also need working lights to ensure you don't have a dirty color or mix.
    Mine isn't perfect as it's not pure pigment but looks ok if you're at 20 cm of the prop.

    The diffusion is AWESOME. Less crazy than on the pics but really diffused, you don't see a single spot but really a lit window.
     
  27. Thibault

    Thibault Sr Member

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  28. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    thanks a lot. I would not have thought this resin brand was distributed over here, I was pointed to that very brand. Awesome !

    EDIT : I actually got very nice results with the Pebéo. The dye mixed very well, no bubbles, and windows look awesome this morning. It will need several days more to cure but I'm good, now I can make the rear blue square.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2012
  29. Thibault

    Thibault Sr Member

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    You are welcome mate !

    I think you are more patient than me !
     
  30. LDR

    LDR Sr Member

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    Looking great so far!

    How have you linked the trigger up to activate it all?
     
  31. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    thanks !
    I used magnetic, non contact sensors, you can see some details in post #22. The mag detection uses that too.
     
  32. LDR

    LDR Sr Member

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    sounds cool. will need to take a closer look when i come to this part
     
  33. gyoung2993

    gyoung2993 Sr Member

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    Man that is just beautiful ,wish I had those resin shrouds to make one ,thats just sweet
     
  34. bolsoncerrado

    bolsoncerrado Well-Known Member

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    So impressive dude! Congratz!!
     
  35. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    I received my new carts. They are longer than the M84 ones that were supposed to act the same (I was told) and ended up not working most of the time.

    [​IMG]

    *WAY* too short. Now I understand. The pin in the barrel isn't pushing the piston far enough and it's not maintaining the pressure between the piston and the firing pin.
    Those new ones are reverse fed compared to the M84 and they will fire each time :thumbsup
    I got some other sort of PFC caps that produces more sparks, it's awesome.

    The new cart. fills up differently, and stores more pressure in the chamber so that blowback is spectacular and my beretta will slide-lock empty every time now !

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    Final stage :)

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    I'm really pleased how the dyed resin ended. Mixing isn't as perfect as with dedicated pigments (that I've bought in the meanwhile) but it's really nice and it diffuses the light very well.

    Full demo

    In included a slow motion sequence, I'm impressed by the insane SPEED of that model gun mechanism (I was new to them). The blow-back feeling is of course less than on a real gun but it feels like the real thing, sparks, smoke :045:

    Lawgiver MkII Final Demo - YouTube

    Thanks for reading and watching !
     
  36. LDR

    LDR Sr Member

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    Amazing, love it!

    Very nice indeed. Great work.

    Just need the electronics and i can get started on mine. I've got a full auto Dolphin to put inside.

    Love the video, not the empty shell hit the camera at the end!

    Look forward to buying the electronics soon!.

    Lewis
     
  37. Supa troop

    Supa troop Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    this is going to be an awsome prop when done i cant wait to get my electronics too
     
  38. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    thanks !

    you have a good eye :lol it's my phone, so it just hit the protection case, it's allright !
     
  39. SD Studios

    SD Studios Well-Known Member

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    FYI: On my build-ups and kits, we are using a mini-pressure-switch attached to the grip frame, which is actuated by the Beretta's transfer bar when you pull the trigger. That sets off the sound and light effects in connection with firing the airsoft when you pull the trigger.

    So you have the option of firing the replica WITH BBs and sound and light FX OR with only BBs, OR only sound and light FX. Your choice...

    Erv installed a magnetic sensor in his, but he had to do surgery on the transfer bar to get it to all fit. I am simply not that brave... Micro switch and glue...problem solved! :lol

    I sent out a mass e-mail yesterday to all of the customers of my build-ups or the kits.

    Erv has started production on the kits for me and I have started taking official orders. But NOT HERE...

    I have also already purchased a ton of of the micro switches, magnets and hall-effect sensors (for the magazine loading), batteries, battery clips, and speakers and have them all here. I just need his boards to arrive and I am all set...

    If you did NOT receive the e-mail, please e-mail me at sdstudios@aol.com

    If you are in Europe (or thereabouts) you can contact Erv directly for info on how to save on shipping and customs fees!

    Thanks to Erv for his tireless efforts and marathon work over the last month!

    These are going to be amazing!!!
     
  40. cosmic_x

    cosmic_x Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Steve for the info, i didnt receive an email from you, but since Im in Germany I will contact Erv directly.

    Kostas
     
  41. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    I'll to order to customers in a group email asap. Don't freak out if I don't answer to you individually for now, I'm keeping all PMs and emails, then I'll move from here somewhere next week as I'm still in the middle of a shipping madness for other boards.

    Now that all parts have been figured out, as well as assembly for both my "mutated" proto and SD one, I can start sourcing locally the same parts as he uses so that the kits shipping from me are merely identical.

    I'll provide :
    - the sound board with preloaded and configured SD card
    - the side led panels with leds mounted on them
    - rear leds (triangle / square)
    - Some super thin wire, 80 cm or 1m x 9 colors
    - trigger and "DNA recognition" switches
    - speaker
    - mag sensor + magnet
    - 9V coupler and main power supply switch (slider)
    - a 9V battery if I can find a proper source, otherwise, just use your own duracell

    I will *NOT* provide any wiring service, sorry :confused. I don't have the time for pre wiring 20+ kits plus unless you're working on a run like SDS (ie, you specify yourself where to place things with a 1mm accuracy) with templates, it's impossible to prepare a wire harness (well... rastnest) at the exact right length for everyone. Wiring is all yours, a clear and simple wiring PDF document will be provided.

    You don't need to add any resistors, they will be on-board.

    Later by email for detail on kit cost and shipping options/costs.
     
  42. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    Update time.

    - All electronic parts for the kits that will ship from me have been ordered from the different suppliers. I should get everything next week, then I'll start making individual blisters

    - in the meanwhile, we wait for SDS email-ping responses to fetch all orders, including those which will ship from my place

    - I've assembled and baked all side led panels, I made 50 to have spare, so that's 500 leds :confused

    - I've assembled about half of the sound boards, I'm making 40 total as a start, I'll propose more of them in the future if there's demand.

    A group email to europe customers will follow with cost & shipping details, probably next week, after we have waited enough for people to respond to SDS or to contact me to place a EU order / expressed interest.

    [​IMG]
     
  43. LDR

    LDR Sr Member

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    Email and PM sent.

    Looking forward to this.

    Lewis
     
  44. cosmic_x

    cosmic_x Well-Known Member

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    Erv, Steve is writing above that european customers can contact you directly, so I only pmed you. Do I have to email Steve too?
     
  45. SD Studios

    SD Studios Well-Known Member

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    Good question.

    I DO need to keep track of how many boards are sold as we only have a limited number available...and I want to make sure I don't over-sell on my end. So the buyer or Erv can just let me know so I can check off the quantity available.

    Thanks!
     
  46. cosmic_x

    cosmic_x Well-Known Member

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    Steve, I will email you, I m lost now :(
     
  47. noaton

    noaton Active Member

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    that's pretty amaaazing!
     
  48. pnag

    pnag Well-Known Member

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    Sent you a mail, Erv (guy from Ireland!) - looking forward to hearing from you re: the group order! :)

    Cheers!
     
  49. erv

    erv Well-Known Member

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    EU customers have been emailed :)
     
  50. cosmic_x

    cosmic_x Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Erv, email received,order placed and paypal sent!
     

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