JACK SPARROW HAT RECOMMENDATIONS?
- Thread starter sparrowfan
- Start date
PHArchivist
Master Member
Does anyone own the Acme ha? Comments?
sparrowfan
Well-Known Member
^
i did,
super super thin
thats all i can say. lol
i did,
super super thin
thats all i can say. lol
Cleverlilminx
Well-Known Member
Hey that's a great link, thanks for posting that. I may make my own hat just for kicks.
Capn_Jack_Savvy
Sr Member
Not too difficult to make your own out of 1-2 ounce leather. Go to your local Tandy Leather and pick up (2) pieces of the scrap leather at about $20.00 each!
Here are the five phases that I used to construct my hat! You use water to shape the leather. This is very similar to the online PDF version of How To Make A CJS Leather Tricorn Hat but modified to make it more accurate!
Phase 1 - Shaping the brim
Forming the bowl using real bowls. Be sure to measure the diameter of your noggin with wig and bandana on so you have room to slide the tricorn on your head without being too tight!
This part actually requires you to put the piece of leather for the bowl in warm water. Do not use bowling water like the previously aforementioned How To guide suggests because it will damage the leather if the water is too HOT!
Phase 3 - Cutting the bowl edge and gluing to the pre-shaped brim. Use leather glue which is basically the expensive version of Elmer's glue. Allow at least 24 hours for all drying of glue and leather.
Phase 4 - Staining. Be sure to use oil based stain or very little alcohol based stain. Oil based requires more to be put on the leather to stain it but it also is easier to control for the weathered look. Alcohol based stains will dry out the leather so you will need to condition the leather with Dr. Jackson's Leather Rejuvanator in order to prevent it from drying out and cracking.
Phase 5 - Optional phase. My tricorn was stained with a lighter brown stain that eventually dried to a reddish color. I ended up restaining with a darker alcohol based stain in order to darkent the leather. The results were much better.
Here are the five phases that I used to construct my hat! You use water to shape the leather. This is very similar to the online PDF version of How To Make A CJS Leather Tricorn Hat but modified to make it more accurate!
Phase 1 - Shaping the brim
Forming the bowl using real bowls. Be sure to measure the diameter of your noggin with wig and bandana on so you have room to slide the tricorn on your head without being too tight!
This part actually requires you to put the piece of leather for the bowl in warm water. Do not use bowling water like the previously aforementioned How To guide suggests because it will damage the leather if the water is too HOT!
Phase 3 - Cutting the bowl edge and gluing to the pre-shaped brim. Use leather glue which is basically the expensive version of Elmer's glue. Allow at least 24 hours for all drying of glue and leather.
Phase 4 - Staining. Be sure to use oil based stain or very little alcohol based stain. Oil based requires more to be put on the leather to stain it but it also is easier to control for the weathered look. Alcohol based stains will dry out the leather so you will need to condition the leather with Dr. Jackson's Leather Rejuvanator in order to prevent it from drying out and cracking.
Phase 5 - Optional phase. My tricorn was stained with a lighter brown stain that eventually dried to a reddish color. I ended up restaining with a darker alcohol based stain in order to darkent the leather. The results were much better.
Jedi Loreen
Well-Known Member
That looks a lot easier than the other instructions, especially since I've done wet molding in leather work before. I like the way it look better, too.
For me, the hardest part would probably be finding bowls the right shape and size! :lol
That leather looks a little heavier then 2oz though, I'd use 4oz leather, if I ever try this. :unsure
For me, the hardest part would probably be finding bowls the right shape and size! :lol
That leather looks a little heavier then 2oz though, I'd use 4oz leather, if I ever try this. :unsure
Last edited by a moderator:
Capn_Jack_Savvy
Sr Member
Some additional tips mates!
1. When measuring the circumference of your noggin with wig and banadana be sure to use the forumla to calculate the radius of your inner circle.
Radius = Circumference / 2 x pi
Be sure to mark an inner circle 1 inch in because you will be cutting Vs into the leather to form the contact points with the bowl. See my pictures for the V cut and the inner circle.
2. Do not roll the back when you are forming the cockades. Roll the back after you have it all constructed or after you stain the leather.
3. The width from the inner circle to the edge of the brim is about 6.5 to 7 inches. I left about 1/2 inch for folding over and stitching. The How To Guide online says to go out 12 inches. I have tried that and it makes the tricorn brim way too big!!!
4. I used 2-3 ounce leather because it was thinner to puch holes and hand stitch. It is also thick enought to maintain the shape without having to put a piece of wire along the edge of the brim like some online sellers are doing.
1. When measuring the circumference of your noggin with wig and banadana be sure to use the forumla to calculate the radius of your inner circle.
Radius = Circumference / 2 x pi
Be sure to mark an inner circle 1 inch in because you will be cutting Vs into the leather to form the contact points with the bowl. See my pictures for the V cut and the inner circle.
2. Do not roll the back when you are forming the cockades. Roll the back after you have it all constructed or after you stain the leather.
3. The width from the inner circle to the edge of the brim is about 6.5 to 7 inches. I left about 1/2 inch for folding over and stitching. The How To Guide online says to go out 12 inches. I have tried that and it makes the tricorn brim way too big!!!
4. I used 2-3 ounce leather because it was thinner to puch holes and hand stitch. It is also thick enought to maintain the shape without having to put a piece of wire along the edge of the brim like some online sellers are doing.
rollerboi
Sr Member
I apologize for resurrecting this old thread. However, I'm puzzled.
I remember back when the link to this pdf (http://www.houseofanoria.com/CaptainJack/Captain Jack Sparrow Hat.pdf) was first posted - I downloaded it and saved it. But I was just revisiting it, and all the text is gibberish. I see embedded pictures, but gibberish for text.
Can anyone else read the text? I just tried viewing this pdf in my browser from the source, and it's still gibberish. Is this just my computer? :/
I remember back when the link to this pdf (http://www.houseofanoria.com/CaptainJack/Captain Jack Sparrow Hat.pdf) was first posted - I downloaded it and saved it. But I was just revisiting it, and all the text is gibberish. I see embedded pictures, but gibberish for text.
Can anyone else read the text? I just tried viewing this pdf in my browser from the source, and it's still gibberish. Is this just my computer? :/
Last edited:
Capn_Jack_Savvy
Sr Member
Wow! A blast from the past!
Works fine for me mate! Make sure you are using the latest version of Adobe Acrobat Reader version 8.0.1!
Also don't open it directly off of houseoffanoria website. Right mouse click on the file link and click save as.....this saves the file to your computer so you can open it easier. It also uses whatever default font is configured on your Adobe Acrobat Reader on your computer. :confused
Works fine for me mate! Make sure you are using the latest version of Adobe Acrobat Reader version 8.0.1!
Also don't open it directly off of houseoffanoria website. Right mouse click on the file link and click save as.....this saves the file to your computer so you can open it easier. It also uses whatever default font is configured on your Adobe Acrobat Reader on your computer. :confused
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