Jack Sparrow Compass Kit (Zlupo) Build

Capt TJ

Well-Known Member
This build is from the Jack Sparrow compass kit that Zlurpo offers. The kit thread can be found here.

I don't have any pictures of the entire kit as it arrived in my mailbox, but you can see what's included if you check out Zlurpo's thread.

I have to say that this kit has a lot of work for you, but the end result is an amazingly accurate Sparrow compass!

One tool that you MUST have is a Dremel. Since the kit does not have the horizontal grooves cut into the compass, you have to find a way to cut them in for the inlays. I basically set up my Dremel like a router. I clamped it to the side of my work bench and put on a grinding head. After setting it to the proper height, I simply moved the compass body back and forth to cut my channel.

The Dremmel also comes in handy to widen some of the other inlay areas, and the stacks of masonite don't always line up perfectly.

Other items I used was super glue gel, sandpapers (yippie!), epoxy and wood filler (instead of Bondo).

Here's a few pics I have so far...

Open compass with hinge already epoxied into place. After putting all of the inlays in, I put sandpaper on a piece of plexiglass (perfectly smooth/flat surface) and sanded everything even. I decided not to sand the inlays on the top of the lid completely flat, and left them only slightly raised. Everything else is flush.
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Next pic is the compass closed. You can see the top inlays which are not flush to the lid...not by much though. Also, the dome is not yet attached to the lid.
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Here's the back of the compass, showing the hinge. I again used my trusty Dremel to cut the hinge down to size. I suggest you tape your compass together before you epoxy the hinge into place. This way, it will line up perfectly when you open/close it! Simple two part epoxy is perfect for keeping this together.
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This is what the hinge looks like after you apply your Bondo/filler to even it out. The filler was still drying when I took this pic, so I haven't been able to sand it down yet. I also need to add additional inlay pieces after I sand the filler down. NOTE: I used a wood filler, since I wanted to try and stain my compass instead of paint it. After thinking about it, I figured that the masonite would swell too much with stain. I also think that stain won't hide the stacked layers of masonite like paint will.
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Finally, I managed to get a bit of painting done while I wait for my filler to dry. This is the compass rose piece, and one of the arms (none of it is glued yet, just stacked for show). I first painted the rose with a brass paint, then I painted it again with a black paint and just used a towel to rub the surface paint off...leaving the lines filled with the black. I think it looks really nice, and also has a bit of an "aged" look.
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More pics and info to come over the next few days. If you have any questions or suggestions, please let me know!
 
Here's a shot of the compass after I taped it up for painting. I just used painters tape, and covered all of the inlays. While time consuming, not extremely difficult. Even for me!
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And here's the finished product! While it's far from perfect, I think it's a very convincing piece. I chose to go with a more brown paint than black...but I'm not sure I'm going to keep it that way. I might make an appearance or two wearing it and see how it looks in pictures. If it's too brown, I'll darken it up.
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nice job! thanks for posting pics. well done.

funny about the masking -- i managed to paint mine WITHOUT masking off the white parts -- just steady hand and went slow. not sure if masking would have made it go faster overall or not.
 
I've done both ways, and I would always miss a tiny bit in a spot or two, painting on the trim. Then I'd have to scrape it off and go back. So for me, masking def sped things up!

nice job! thanks for posting pics. well done.

funny about the masking -- i managed to paint mine WITHOUT masking off the white parts -- just steady hand and went slow. not sure if masking would have made it go faster overall or not.
 
Thanks everyone!

Masking vs not...it's probably a horse apiece. For me, I don't the steadiest hand, so masking probably saved me a ton of scraping afterward.

Now that I'm done with it, I wish I would have placed a flat magnet on the underside of the compass dial, so I could move it with another magnet underneath the compass. Maybe I'll be able to slip it under by tilting the dial. We'll see...
 
I experimented with that. I could never find a way to make the dial avoid constantly tilting from the weight of the magnet. But hey, I bet there's a way to pull it off!
 
seems like if you use the thinnest sliver of metal on compass dial, it would still be affected by magnet held from underneath compass, but maybe you need the strength of a magnet on dial AND underneath.

as for masking, i used acrylic paints, which are very forgiving -- if i dabbled a little brown on the white trim, it would wipe away easily -- and if done lightly, it helped add to the weathering effect.

also, i painted my trim first with an off-white or what is sometimes called "dirty white" -- let that dry, and then paint the brown as described above. if the brown got onto the trim, i would either gently wipe away and if brown residue remained, leave it as weathering OR paint over again with the dirty white to touch up.

i suggest this only because i DESPISE masking things off unless absolutely necessary. If you must mask, some hobby shops carry trim masking tape that might be the exact same width as plastic trim.

the beauty of building this prop, IMHO, is that it CAN look beat up and weathered, which allows for painting without masking -- if you mess up, hey, just more weathering! ;)

in fact, when done, i think i went over my compass with a watered down brown acrylic paint wash here and there to dirty/age it up a bit.

pictures of my build posted if anyone wants to take a look.

on thing i didn't do that TJ did was cut away at some of the trim to match screen-used wear & tear look -- nicely done.
 
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