Jabba's Door Droid - TT-8L/Y7 Gatekeeper Droid

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Howlrunner, Aug 4, 2015.

  1. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I've had a bunch of different sized acrylic baubles sitting in my box-o-bits for years so while between projects I decided to take a look at this guy. Looks like it's only been attempted twice that I've seen, so not a particularly popular guy!

    I started with screencaps and the DVD, and by using them and holding up different sizes of spheres the correct(ish) distance from my C-3PO head for scale, I guestimated that the "eyelid sphere" appears to be approx. 12cm diameter, with the inner eyeball at approx. 10cm diameter.

    Of course, I don't have any 12cm baubles, so I had to order them, and am waiting on them arriving.....

    So, in the meantime, on to the eyeball.... From studying the screencaps I would say that the white section has probably been created by layering on thin strips of white vinyl (it appears that some of the individual strips overlap others very slightly. I considered that. Also considered masking a clear hemisphere, marking out the right shape and spraying. In the end, I decided on something that may not be 100% accurate methodologically speaking, but will give a nice looking result.

    So.... 10cm bauble hemisphere, pair of compasses, pencil, ruler, strip of cereal box card (for drawing straight curved lines), dremel, needle files, steady hands and nerves of steel got me this:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And then with another section of hemisphere that will be inserted for the lens:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now, I would LOVE to make him so that he is actually movable (eye opens), but I just can't quite figure that one out.

    [​IMG]

    From watching the DVD (frame by frame) it appears that the lower "eyelid" is locked in place - when the eye opens it is only the upper lid that moves. Now, looking at screencaps and thinking about it, I can only think that this will be possible if I use my 12cm diameter sphere for the lower lid, but then us a VERY slightly larger diameter sphere for the upper lid, so that it can slide over and around the lower section. Trouble is, finding a slightly larger sphere (or hemisphere) is proving very difficult. Only thing I can really think of is vac-forming one over the top of the 12cm hemisphere, but I don't have a vac-former. I may just have to cheat with a static open eye (which can be done with two halves the same size, one slightly overlapping the other, as long as they're at an angle to each other - which they would be anyway). Unless anyone has any other bright ideas?

    Oh, and before I get there, anyone got any Blu-Ray images of that spikey side linkage on the "arm" to try to identify parts (or at least shapes)?
     
  3. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Can't wait to see what you do with this. I'm a fan of all of your projects that I've seen so far.
     
  4. Toddo

    Toddo Member

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    Well-done. I would have destroyed a few hemispheres by now.
     
  5. matty matt

    matty matt Sr Member

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    Cool project. Here's an idea that popped into my head. Maybe you could incorporate one of these grabber tools into the build to make the eye open and close. Maybe remove the pinchers and attach the spheres somehow. It would kind of be like a puppet.

    image.jpg
     
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  6. Trooper_trent

    Trooper_trent Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I don't think the bottom eyelid goes up as far in the back as you're thinking. So I think you're okay having them be the same size. There's a step down where the top eyelid meets the bottom in the back that to me looks like it's part of the "clear sphere". I'm seeing both lids as being the same diameter, but the bottom lid is just attached to the clear sphere that is painted in the back to match. The top lid attaches to the clear sphere on the sides via an axle.
    00000000000000e2_zps05db6edb.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2015
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  7. Trooper_trent

    Trooper_trent Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here's what I'm seeing.
    Untitled.jpg


    For the mechanism, something as simple as a trigger at the end of the stick with a line (green) going up through the inner sphere, wrapping around the axle and fixed (maybe threaded through). If the axle and top lid are fixed together and you have springs on the axle (black circle) for tension between the top lid/axle and the inner sphere/bottom lid, it will return when you let go of the trigger.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2015
  8. Torron

    Torron Active Member

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    Great project. Everyone needs a gatekeeper (or doorkeeper, if you don't have a palace) droid, not only Jabba! :)
     
  9. Trooper_trent

    Trooper_trent Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  10. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    M.A.R.S. Props are your in here!? Your gonna love this thread!
     
  11. Neo-uk

    Neo-uk Well-Known Member

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    I'd have to agree with trooper trent on the eyelid mechanism. That's what I can see as well.
     
  12. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks Trooper-Trent! You know, I had studied the shapes of the top and bottom lid, and had even spotted and thought about the "step" at the back of the eyelids, but I was stuck on the track that the top lid would have to overlap the bottom lid.... Your suggestion would work and looks good with all available reference. Though it does mean that I'm gonna have my work cut out for me ensuring that those two eyelids interlock exactly (can't cheat it a little with the overlap)...

    In the mean time, I painted the eyeball (painted inside black as well to build up paint thickness to stop light leaking through any thin spots) and hot-glued in the lens.

    [​IMG]

    I was at HobbyCraft yesterday and bought a load of teardrop beads (they were identified/suggested in a previous builder's thread) and a cheap battery operated LED string. Here's the test:

    [​IMG]

    Obviously the LED colour is not right... I have identified some orange LED string lights and ordered them. Until they, or my 12cm diameter spheres, show up there's not a whole lot more I can do on this just now other than research.
     
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  13. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    EXCELLENT START! Love it! I think Trooper-Trent is right on the mechanism. You can also see a "rod" or something going through the center acting as the pivot point.

    Looking forward to more!
     
  14. Trooper_trent

    Trooper_trent Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey that's looking great so far!
    as far as making sure the eyelids interlock....Why not start with a single sphere, draw the outline of the interlocking pieces and just slowly cut dead center on the draw lines with a really thin blade? Cut the remaining portions to get your separated halves. once you smooth out and sand the edges, you're ensured that the pieces match exactly.

    Please excuse my crude sketches. But I'm thinking something like this.
    cuts.jpg
    start with a full sphere.
    Cut one is the blue squiggly line to get the shape of the interlocking "eyelashes".
    Cut two (green) is to separate the bottom lid at the right angle so that when they rotate, the backs of the top and bottom lids line up.
    The part marked "X" is scrap.
    Remember there is NO overlap. the bottom lid is merely glued to the inner sphere and the top lid is fixed to an axle running through the inner sphere.

    Now if I take this same picture and rotate it, remove the scrap (X) portion, and overlay it over the inner sphere, you can see what I'm talking about.
    2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2015
  15. Blue Leader

    Blue Leader Well-Known Member

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    That's a very cool project. I was actually just working on a 3D model of this droid last week and was thinking "huh, it's strange that I haven't seen many people making a prop of this". :p

    I'm totally jealous, though. This would be a fun project to work on but I'm not brave enough to try to cut out that sphere!

    Are you going to be making the door version of this droid or the version that actually has a body? (I gotta say, the version with a body would be uber impressive.)
     
  16. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Trooper-trent, it's a good idea, but I don't think I could cut out the shape with a thin blade like that - I'm gonna have to use a dremel. The other problem is that the 12cm diameter sphere comes as two hemispheres that snap together, so for strength, I don't think I can do it like that - I'm going to have to do each "eyelid" from a separate hemisphere. I'm pretty sure that I can do it though - I'm going to draw out the shape on other hemisphere and dremel it out, then use that to overlap half of the other hemisphere (they will fit inside each other if you don't overlap past the half way mark) and then use that shape as a stencil to draw the corresponding shape onto the other half, then dremel that out. The tricky part is in getting the "eyelash" lines perfectly parallel in the first place, otherwise they won't slide into the interlocking position.

    Blue Leader, no I'm not doing the full droid (from The Essential Guide to Droids) as most people have never seen it, and I simply don't have space. I'm going to do the eye, spiky extension section and a bit of piping (not as long as is seen in the movie as I want it displayable), with some kind of circular hatched wall mount.
     
  17. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    OK, trying to suss out mechanical linkage. The main curved part seems to be some kind of found item, but I've no idea what...

    [​IMG]
     
  18. pandabarnes

    pandabarnes Active Member

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    This build looks so cool, looking forward to seeing it progress.

    Wanted to add my thoughts on the mechanism although it looks like you've got it well under control - I wondered if it was similar in any way to those mechanical ice cream scoops you get, you know the ones where you pull a trigger and a curved arm sweeps through the bowl?

    http://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-mechanical-ice-cream-scoop/p783228

    Anyway, just a thought - might be useful to see a similar mechanism in the flesh?
     
  19. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The build is looking great so far, everybody needs one of these droids for their front door as far as i'm concerned!

    Don't know if it is of any help to you but I 3D modelled the Gatekeeper Droid for fun a while back. I know the eye on mine doesn't close and it isn't the most accurate, but I had fun making it (the big bronze rear portion was completely made up by me as I wanted some way of attaching it to a wall if ever a made it, so just ignore that part).
    1.png 2.png 3.png 5.png 6.png 7.png 8.png
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2015
  20. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This also was an image that I found helpful
    TT-8L-tattletale_negtd.jpg
     
  21. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Finally had time to do more work on this guy. This thing is a SERIOUS pain to get right....

    [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  22. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Bit more done on securing tubing, cutting down plumbing fittings, custom cutting spacer rings, gluing in bead-securing disc and painting.

    [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  23. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Little bit more....

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  24. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Looking really good, Mark.
     
  25. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is great stuff.
     
  26. THXBOY

    THXBOY Active Member

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    Now you WILL be installing this to great visitors at your house, yes?
     
  27. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Slow progress, but still moving....

    Eventually came up with a solution for the rear "bent" pipes:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The white sections of pipe still need to be cut down. The finished thing will not be as long as the screen-used prop - I have to go for display-ability over screen accuracy. So this will have to be it's contracted form.

    Have also been trying to figure out a wall mounting system (the "eye" part containing the beads is much heavier than the rest of the prop, so can't have the pipes extend too far anyway for stability) and came up with this. Round hatch still to add, etc obviously, and I haven't cut off the extra white sections of pipe yet.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  28. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Been working on the wall mounting point today. While I would like it to be accurate, there's no way I can do a meter long pole sticking out of a hole in the wall, so the pole has to be shortened and the "hole in the wall/door" must be mounted ON the wall. So cut down some oven hob vent duct pipe, split it open and reduced it to a diameter to match the hole I already had and stuck it in place. Also worked on the actual hatch - dremelled out some plastic circles and eventually managed to get them attached to the hinge so that it actually works.

    [​IMG]

    I used a 170 degree cupboard hinge. It's not an exact match to what is seen on film (for literally about 1 frame!), but it's the closest I could find locally....

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Paint still to do obviously. Not sure on achieving that texture though. Looks like rough plaster work to me - not something I want to be applying to the plastic box. May have to go with textured spray paint - not the same kind of texture at all, but adds something at least.
     
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  29. awol007

    awol007 Active Member

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    I want one! I've long thought about making one of these and using a linear actuator as the main rod for the in and out movement. Would probably be slow but still mechanical. Love the progress so far. Can't wait to see more.
     
  30. Mara Jade's Father

    Mara Jade's Father Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Looks like stucco work.
     
  31. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks. Now that I know the term I was able to look it up online. And while searching around I found links to 3D relief wallpaper that mimics it. Went to my local B&Q yesterday and searched the wallpaper isle and came away with two free "samples" that I will decide upon the best of and glue that to the the front for texture then paint. Got to love anything free!
     
  32. usajdm

    usajdm Well-Known Member

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    This is so great.
    Your work is outstanding.
    You must be so pleased.
    That wall is definitely stuccoed as Mara Jade's Father had said.
    May I suggest you try replicating the stucco look with something like plumbers epoxy putty.
    Would adhere great to the plastic, won't chip of and with alittle sand mixed in, should give you great results.
    Just a suggestion though.
    Cant wait to see more.
     
  33. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Looks like stucco to me as well. IMO, avoid the texture paint and practice achieving the stucco texture on a few scrap pieces of wood. It will DEF be worth it in the end! :)

    Amazing work so far
     
  34. HB1098S

    HB1098S Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    On the stucco texture, you could easily achieve this using Bondo. As it kicks off its pretty moldable for a few seconds and it will stick to the plastic. Awesom project, looks really good!
     
  35. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Got a lot of work done on this guy over the past two weekends. He's slowly getting there. The side-by-side comparisons show that some of the proportions are a bit off, butconsidering it's all from scratch from PVC pipe and acrylic sheet and domes, I think it's coming along pretty well. Curved side greeblies to make next....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You can't see it in the photo very well, but he lights up in a pretty accurate slow blink from one set of orange LED's to another. Will try to get a decent video and upload it sometime later.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  36. r_j_young2003

    r_j_young2003 Active Member

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    Wicked! Wanna see the video
     
  37. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Spent the day yesterday turning long bits of plastic into short bits of plastic, then gluing them together into big hunks of plastic....

    Still need two more little pearl buttons to cover two of the brown buttons and am waiting for the spikes I ordered to arrive. Also thinking about making the ends of the curves (where they meet the hinges) a little chunkier. Getting there though....

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  38. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Not great lighting as it's now too dark, so I'll upload better photos (and possibly video) tomorrow. But wanted to get this up as Jabba's Door Droid is now finished! [though I may try to fit a small blu-tooth speaker inside it later for sound]

    [video]https://www.facebook.com/mark.billen.92/videos/10156194616595319/[/video]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  39. SteveStarkiller

    SteveStarkiller Sr Member

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  40. HB1098S

    HB1098S Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Love it! I think you should have this cast up as a kit sir!
     
  41. Mara Jade's Father

    Mara Jade's Father Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is a great build. Are you planning to do anything with the gray part of the eye ( the half globe under the lid)? It's really throwing off the look for me. It is just too clean and plain. It needs those textured lines seen on the real prop. Not sure if they are marks left from initial sectional cuts or in some cases, it looks like some sort of material might be layered. I also think the coloring is off. Looks to me like a coat of aluminum Rustolum would match. Other than that, it's outstanding.
     
  42. Blue Leader

    Blue Leader Well-Known Member

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    Aw, bummer, I can't see the pictures on Facebook. Says the content isn't available.
     
  43. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The grey/cream part of the eye does look very clean doesn't it? Especially for the lived-in Star Wars universe. Didn't quite sit right with me either, but I can't see any kind of weathering on it in ANY of the reference pictures of it I found. It does have the etched texture lines on my replica but they're faint and don't show up well. I spent a long time thinking about the colour of the eyeball - I've seen only 2 replicas of this built before me and in both they have that part in silver, but again, every reference image I have of that part looks cream to me rather than a silver. I may try to do a very slight grey wash to make the etched lines pop, add weathering and alter the hue, but everything is glued together permanently now, so wouldn't be easy.

    Last night's video is actually better than the one I took today - the internal lights don't show up well on film in the daylight. But here are better quality photos of the finished thing.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  44. HalfShelter

    HalfShelter Member

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    That. Is. Beautiful!!!!
     
  45. nick daring

    nick daring Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Fantastic!
     
  46. Blue Leader

    Blue Leader Well-Known Member

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    Very awesome. :)
     
  47. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    NIIIICE! Outstanding job! You can package it up and mail it to me now. ;)
     
  48. HB1098S

    HB1098S Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    What plastic did you use and how did you make the arched pieces? Thanks, beautiful job!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  49. Trooper_trent

    Trooper_trent Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wow that turned out fantastic!! I love it!

    As for the silver vs cream inner teeth, the reason you are seeing them as etched is that this is most likely just tape cut into trapezoidal pieces and stuck on, with a second layer of them stuck on further back, alternating in between the gaps of the first layer. Probably just white electrical tape or something similar. The reason I think it is electrical tape is that it is so thin you can clearly see where the pieces overlap. The under layer is visible through the upper layers.

    Having said that, tape would look cheesy up close so I much more prefer the way you did it. Gives it a more realistic look.

    10156124_10156180133255319_1459225895809586659_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2015
  50. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    (Almost) Everything I used to make the arched pieces can be seen in that photo - for the actual curved pieces I cut a ring from the large PVC pipe you can see in the picture (it's a cooker hob vent pipe) and then cut that into quarters to get 4 curved pieces. I then added the "fin" details from sheet styrene (not pictured) that I cut to shape. Then I built up the curve with the E shaped extruded PVC strip that you see in the picture, that I cut into little sections and glued between each fin. I then drilled holes in the E pieces and inserted pieces of the PVC pipe (pictured) that I cut to length. And then cut more sections of the pipe, dremelled slits into them, and inserted the ends of the curved pipe sections.
     

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