Is there a good brush-on gold that isn't completely flat?

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red4

Sr Member
I wish I knew what the toy companies use when they paint gold onto tiny rivets and buckles. I know some applications are sprayed on, but you can often tell the difference between sprayed and brushed paint. I have some fairly satisfactory gold aerosols, but it's impossible to mask off the tiny areas that I want to paint. There are too many compound curves in an area less than 3mm in diameter. I've tried Model Master Acrylic Gold, but the gold flakes clutter and separate too much, and it needs like 7 coats before it starts to resemble a uniform color, at which point it also starts to look like a clumpy mess. I've also tried gold paint markers, but they have absolutely no scratch resistance whatsoever; the paint remains waxy forever. I've also tried Rub'N'Buff, with similar results.

The toy companies are using some mystical gold paint that goes on fast, and cures hard. What in the world are they using?
 

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Riceball

Master Member
I've always had good results with Testors metallics in the past, but that was decades ago, back in the '80s and I haven't used them since. But, assuming they haven't dropped in quality or changed their formulation, I'd give that a try. The good thing, is they come in small bottles so even if it doesn't work out for you, you shouldn't be out too much.
 

red4

Sr Member
I've always had good results with Testors metallics in the past, but that was decades ago, back in the '80s and I haven't used them since. But, assuming they haven't dropped in quality or changed their formulation, I'd give that a try. The good thing, is they come in small bottles so even if it doesn't work out for you, you shouldn't be out too much.

I found Testors 1144TT Metallic Gold Enamel Paint. Just to verify that you're recommending an enamel, rather than acrylic.
 

Riceball

Master Member
I found Testors 1144TT Metallic Gold Enamel Paint. Just to verify that you're recommending an enamel, rather than acrylic.
Yes, I was recommending the enamels. Sorry for not being more specific. Back when I was painting a lot of miniatures I would use Testors enamels for anything that I wanted to be metallic like swords and armor while for everything else I'd use acrylics.
 

Analyzer

Sr Member
How about some of the paint used for gaming miniatures,

I find P3 Rhulic Gold , Solid Gold or Blighted Gold pretty nice.

Also a brown ink wash is nice over those
 

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Rogviler

Well-Known Member
There are a million chrome paints out there but gold has proven to be infamously elusive. My personal favorite at the moment is a "mirror finish" nail polish I found on ebay. Unfortunately they come from China so you're looking at months at the moment (I remember when it was always two weeks on the dot). But if you get desperate it's an option. There are several different kinds but the one I have comes in a square bottle and has a label that says "Craney" or possibly "Graney" or who knows?? That's the only one I can vouch for.
 

basementdweller

Active Member
Vallejo liquid gold line. You can only use alcohol as thinner or it will rust. The best gold I've come across for brush on purposes.
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red4

Sr Member
Vallejo liquid gold line. You can only use alcohol as thinner or it will rust. The best gold I've come across for brush on purposes.
View attachment 1307838

I like the look of 792 and 794. That's the kind of rich gold I would love to use.

Also how good is their scratch resistance? As a point of reference, Model Master Acrylics have excellent scratch resistance. After about 3 days, when you try to scratch them with your fingernail, it's like scraping against a hard plastic surface.
 

basementdweller

Active Member
I like the look of 792 and 794. That's the kind of rich gold I would love to use.

Also how good is their scratch resistance? As a point of reference, Model Master Acrylics have excellent scratch resistance. After about 3 days, when you try to scratch them with your fingernail, it's like scraping against a hard plastic surface.
Umm... I've never tried scratching :D I've used it to repair some giant gaudy picture frame and for miniatures. It's not from the normal acrylic line for models and I reckon it should have some better resistance, but that is just my instinct. It has great coverage and dries super fast. Here is Vince Vinturella's review on it. He is pretty in depth and a very good source for techniques and stuff. He goes through everything except scratch resistance.
It was just so much better in finish compared to all of the other metallic golds I used. Much finer ground metal powder I presume.
it says Synthetic resin and metallic pigment. Shake well - for all surfaces. Dilute with alcohol: metal pigment will rust if in contact with water. use alcohol to clean brushes. Paraphrasing the enxt bits: Drowsiness, highly flammable, causes eye irritation. Keep away from heat. Contains Propan-2-ol.
 

red4

Sr Member
Umm... I've never tried scratching :D I've used it to repair some giant gaudy picture frame and for miniatures. It's not from the normal acrylic line for models and I reckon it should have some better resistance, but that is just my instinct. It has great coverage and dries super fast. Here is Vince Vinturella's review on it. He is pretty in depth and a very good source for techniques and stuff. He goes through everything except scratch resistance.
It was just so much better in finish compared to all of the other metallic golds I used. Much finer ground metal powder I presume.
it says Synthetic resin and metallic pigment. Shake well - for all surfaces. Dilute with alcohol: metal pigment will rust if in contact with water. use alcohol to clean brushes. Paraphrasing the enxt bits: Drowsiness, highly flammable, causes eye irritation. Keep away from heat. Contains Propan-2-ol.

Thanks for the extra info. I watched the video. I'm willing to try, but the real problem is getting a hold of 91% isopropyl alcohol without paying through the nose. It has effectively vanished from my local stores since February. And online sources are absurdly expensive.
 

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red4

Sr Member
Yes, I was recommending the enamels. Sorry for not being more specific. Back when I was painting a lot of miniatures I would use Testors enamels for anything that I wanted to be metallic like swords and armor while for everything else I'd use acrylics.

I bought a bottle today, and will be trying it soon.
 

basementdweller

Active Member
Thanks for the extra info. I watched the video. I'm willing to try, but the real problem is getting a hold of 91% isopropyl alcohol without paying through the nose. It has effectively vanished from my local stores since February. And online sources are absurdly expensive.

Ahh, yes there is that. I full heartedly recommend looking into bioethanol.
 

red4

Sr Member
I applied some Testors Gold onto clean, unprimered ABS. It looks beautiful, and very much like the gold on Bale Batman's belt. I will be doing a scratch test in 24 hours; and every 24 hours after that for about a week, depending on results. I like knowing how hard a primerless paint grabs onto a bare plastic surface.
 

red4

Sr Member
I did the scratch test 25 hours after application. Testors Gold is not performing any better than the paint marker. I may start looking into Vallejo Liquid Gold soon.
 

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red4

Sr Member
Did another scratch test after another day. Testors Gold is a resounding failure. I ordered some 99% Isopropyl Alcohol that I intend to dilute to 91%. If it turns out to be a real product this time (rather than a scam for the 3rd time), then I will order some Vallejo Liquid Gold.

EDIT: I found this video of acrylics from Vallejo
Seems promising.
 
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mcusanelli

Active Member
Try Deco Art acrylic metallic paint, a couple of coats, then seal it with Future- Johnson’s Clear, not sure what they’re calling it right now- I believe they make a couple of shades of gold. I start with a dark brown made from dioxizene purple and burnt sienna, followed by antique copper then gold. The Future makes it pretty tough, never had it wear off yet
 

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