Is Darth Vader's saber blade painted (ANH) & blade flexing.
- Thread starter Mouse Vader
- Start date
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Really good news! Interesting the adjacent black sides not being good. I'll have to check that photo yet again. Well done!
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Re filming sequence - I think my subconscious logic is along these lines ; the death star hanger is a big elaborate set which is going to take a while to build, do something else while that's going on, also there is just something in the acting that isn't as 'mature' or well formed as in the later dueling scenes. But hut, tavern & falcon scenes may well not have been filmed in the sequence we see them.
I was at my local hobby shop today,they got a fairly large balsa wood section and I pulled out two pieces to see how they felt.i would be really surprised if they used something else.first off this stuff is way stronger then I thought.i originally thought I could snap a piece of balsa wood by looking at it the wrong way but these things were surprisingly strong. I bent them,whacked the ground with them and they did not break. Secondly this wood feels light as a feather,I think if they were worried at all about the actors safety then they would defenatly use this over plywood.i hit my leg a few times with it and it stung a little but it wasn’t that painful. I think I could take a few clean shots from it and walk away without any medical attention needed,I don’t even think it would break the skin if you took a shot in the head. if I was hit by plywood you would probly need a stitch or two if it got you I’m the head.
Dude!! Does his hobby store ship!!?? I’d love to try this!
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Scaling from this pic, blade is v.close to 35.66", about 7/8 shorter than my golf stick 
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Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
Has anyone talked about this image? Josh Ling Jedi Knight - Star Wars Collectors Archive
I remember this website when it was called Sir Steve’s and saw this image back in 1997.
I think if you look at the center of the blade, you can just about make out the black line unless I’m just seeing things.
I remember this website when it was called Sir Steve’s and saw this image back in 1997.
I think if you look at the center of the blade, you can just about make out the black line unless I’m just seeing things.
Josh Ling Jedi Knight
The flash glared off the blade of this saber beautifully in this photo. If you've seen The Making of Star Wars then you saw the scenes where they filmed these lightsabers then added the color during post-production. Notice all the ILM concept maquettes on the shelf to Josh's left.
Description by: Chris Georgoulias
Photo: Anonymous
From the collection of: Lucasfilm, Ltd.
Country: United States
Film: A New Hope
Licensee: Lucasfilm, Ltd.
Year: 1977
Category: Movie Production Pieces / Props
I thought about that as well,but I think they probly would have not had it go into the hilt itself.we know the v2 didn’t have it go inside the hilt,so more then likely they made the same setup for the stunt graflex.some sort of rod sticking out of the wood that can slide down into the hilt.
I think the stunt Luke and the stunt Vader had a different blade attachment..
I think the v2 was its own animal because the entire emitter spun..
I’m still up in the air on how the blade on the v2 was actually attached. Playing around with mine I’ve come up with my own way.. but until I can prove otherwise.. and if what I see IS a set screw.. then my mind is made up and the blade on the v2 would be a real PITA to replace..
This is why it was cut off
The Luke and Vader stunts I think the blades are like Brandon said and held onto the motors rotating shaft..
Again I have zero proof of this. But the pic Kurt shared makes me believe the Luke and Vader are a different setup then the v2
And would be much easier to change
My mind also says these angled blades were ditched by the time of the duel.. physically hitting each other with sharp edges isn’t going to work.. I think this is where the round blades came in.. possibly by other prop makers..
This is why we have a group of guys saying “I made square blades” and then others saying “the blades were round poles”
Because different groups worked on the same Props at different times.. their stories are probably true. Just there timing is wrong
I think the v2 was its own animal because the entire emitter spun..
I’m still up in the air on how the blade on the v2 was actually attached. Playing around with mine I’ve come up with my own way.. but until I can prove otherwise.. and if what I see IS a set screw.. then my mind is made up and the blade on the v2 would be a real PITA to replace..
This is why it was cut off
The Luke and Vader stunts I think the blades are like Brandon said and held onto the motors rotating shaft..
Again I have zero proof of this. But the pic Kurt shared makes me believe the Luke and Vader are a different setup then the v2
And would be much easier to change
My mind also says these angled blades were ditched by the time of the duel.. physically hitting each other with sharp edges isn’t going to work.. I think this is where the round blades came in.. possibly by other prop makers..
This is why we have a group of guys saying “I made square blades” and then others saying “the blades were round poles”
Because different groups worked on the same Props at different times.. their stories are probably true. Just there timing is wrong
Scaling from this pic, blade is v.close to 35.66", about 7/8 shorter than my golf stick
View attachment 992550
Talk about exact! Damn buddy lol thanks for that, it makes sense the blade was shorter
When the time comes for the Vader duel (I believe the blade has been changed) any way you could scale this?
See if this blade on the stunt Luke is the same length as it is in the hut
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Good news - my balsa dowel has arrived. Bad news - I'm busy for most of today so pla.. evaluating it's properties will have to wait. What I can say is this for the 16mm nominal diam (mic'd at 15.9mm) 900mm/36" long bits I have.
Untapered feels about the same weight as a tapered graphite golf shaft of similar length.
I can easily mark it with my thumb nail.
Very easily flexed but returns to straight. I recon I could relatively easily snap this in my hands. I also recon it would be easy to produce the observed flex without a heavy hit.
Giving 2 a smart tap together they are clacking much better than I thought they but the unfinished surface feels 'velvety' so this may be damping things a bit, painting & scotchlite I think should crispen things up just enough for good a sound match.
As for mounting I'm thinking just drill a hole in the base & glue in some 8 or 10mm normal wood dowel. Also I think a rotating square edge would be destroyed in no time flat against another blade particularly if that was also square. Tests will tell. I'll order some square stock as soon as I can.
This should also be as easy to shape as I thought it was going to be, electric drill (if you don't have a lathe) & 80 - 100 grip emery (in hand) for round taper from round stock. same grit emery on a belt sander for sq. taper from sq. stock ( stock on firm flat surface tapering 2 adjacent sides should give finished blade, though base & tip would no longer be perpendicular to the sides, easily adjusted). I for one wouldn't want to take an electric planer anywhere near this stuff.
Initially I find this a very promising material. It seems to be matching, or v. nearly so, all the info we have both anecdotal & pictorial/audio. I'm still waiting for other stuff before I can give it proper tests.
My scaled measure include an estimated length for the bit hidden by the 's' curve of the hilt but nothing for projections into the hilt. Ie is of the visible blade, hence I say close to. This is a good clear picture for which I can take good measures with good confidence.
catch'ya later.
Untapered feels about the same weight as a tapered graphite golf shaft of similar length.
I can easily mark it with my thumb nail.
Very easily flexed but returns to straight. I recon I could relatively easily snap this in my hands. I also recon it would be easy to produce the observed flex without a heavy hit.
Giving 2 a smart tap together they are clacking much better than I thought they but the unfinished surface feels 'velvety' so this may be damping things a bit, painting & scotchlite I think should crispen things up just enough for good a sound match.
As for mounting I'm thinking just drill a hole in the base & glue in some 8 or 10mm normal wood dowel. Also I think a rotating square edge would be destroyed in no time flat against another blade particularly if that was also square. Tests will tell. I'll order some square stock as soon as I can.
This should also be as easy to shape as I thought it was going to be, electric drill (if you don't have a lathe) & 80 - 100 grip emery (in hand) for round taper from round stock. same grit emery on a belt sander for sq. taper from sq. stock ( stock on firm flat surface tapering 2 adjacent sides should give finished blade, though base & tip would no longer be perpendicular to the sides, easily adjusted). I for one wouldn't want to take an electric planer anywhere near this stuff.
Initially I find this a very promising material. It seems to be matching, or v. nearly so, all the info we have both anecdotal & pictorial/audio. I'm still waiting for other stuff before I can give it proper tests.
My scaled measure include an estimated length for the bit hidden by the 's' curve of the hilt but nothing for projections into the hilt. Ie is of the visible blade, hence I say close to. This is a good clear picture for which I can take good measures with good confidence.
catch'ya later.
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Not much else to add it turns out. All 6 have very light warpage. Here is quick video of 2 striking to hear the sound.
The one on the left picked up dents but not the one on the right, so my memory of varying hardness of balsa seems correct. These are straight out of the parcel, unshaped bare wood.
The one on the left picked up dents but not the one on the right, so my memory of varying hardness of balsa seems correct. These are straight out of the parcel, unshaped bare wood.
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Video is unavailable? Do you have it set to private?
I think warping it going to be a problem for you guys looking for the 100% look..
Your best bet is to probably let the wood acclimate, then sealing it with a sealant..
It won’t 100% prevent it from warping.. it will just take longer
I think warping it going to be a problem for you guys looking for the 100% look..
Your best bet is to probably let the wood acclimate, then sealing it with a sealant..
It won’t 100% prevent it from warping.. it will just take longer
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Yes it was. Try now.
The warp is hardly noticeable, I don't think it will be a problem & I'm hoping to get rid of it anyway in the tapering process.
The warp is hardly noticeable, I don't think it will be a problem & I'm hoping to get rid of it anyway in the tapering process.
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