Well, got an OOB Chrome kit here that I'm going to pose and light. I got the chrome kit for $14.00 and didn't have to pay a boatload in shipping by buying from Amazon. I looked this over and saw another thread where someone said it would be hard to pose, so I just had to try it and it looks like a no-brainer to me.
Ironman Posed and lighted WIP. :)
- Thread starter Underdog
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Wow, this really is going to be a cake walk. I cleaned all of the chrome off, though I had to soak some of the parts in a chemical bath three different times. The oven cleaner left a yellowish / amber film, so I had to go back and clean the parts of with a soft scrubbie and some bleach. It's pretty clear they are transparent parts. I've ordered case of these and I'm going to have a lot of fun with these models. Moebius is kicking arse all over PLR2! I can see this is going to be a no-brainer to light, all I have to do is mask the parts and spray with several coats of flat-black, sand, recut the lines, spray flat white on the interior, install some super-bright blue LED's and do a final paint! Woot. Easy peasy, domineazy. 
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Thanks Dude. This is pretty much a no-brainer. After cleaning up all of the parts, all I have to do is epoxy some LED's into place and primer, paint etc...
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saying it is a no-brainer is a no-brainer J
Aztek Dummy
Well-Known Member
Did some more paint work, prepped some more parts for lighting, picked up some self contained LED's and worked on the base a bit, even though I will be creating a diorama, I still might incorporate the base into the diorama and add some additional greeblies. The little lights are a perfect fit for the feet and will work fin for the rest. They've already got leads soldered to them and the aluminum wire that comes with them will come in handy for fishing the leads through the arms and legs etc... Think I'm going to go with a complete MKII helmet and myaybe even a chest piece, haven't decided yet. I used copper, chrome and leather brown for a splatter paint job, as a base coat for the base and will do a series of dry brush, washes and detail paints on the base.
trekriffic
Sr Member
Nice work so far Underdog. Those cheap booklights are great for parts aren't they?
I used the same ones you are using on my current build.
The reflectors just need a little trimming to fit nice and snug in behind the bussard domes in the 1/1000 PL Enterprise kit.
I used the same ones you are using on my current build.
The reflectors just need a little trimming to fit nice and snug in behind the bussard domes in the 1/1000 PL Enterprise kit.
Yeah, they work great, I've been using them for years, every since I stumbled across them the first time. You know what else work good in the TOS, those little rave lights, I bought a case of them a few years ago and still haven't ran out.
You will have your wish, I just did a light test on the chest and it looks great, I'm working on the head and faceplate now, then onto the repulsors and foot repulsors.
Got some more painting done today and got one part light tested. I was drilling out the holes for the eye LED's and on one side of the helmet the drill started to skip, so I reset it and pressed down a little to hard and fractured it, so I had to set it back together and use super glue gel on it, so I didn't get that part done today. I painted a couple of more layers on the base and dug out some plaster from a recent repair job (not shown), so that I can set it around the base add some greeblies and do a diorama.
youngwm
Active Member
Underdog, did you leave the hole in the chest transparent and then just place the led behind in the body? The clip lights used you can add led to wires with the resistor that is all ready built in the clip lights.. How would you go about changing the color if you did not want to do white? Thanks for the tips after seeing you use the clip lights I ordered a few from ebay yesterday to check them out..
Again nice job thanks!!
Again nice job thanks!!
1). If you look back on some of the earlier photos, you can see that I masked the part off with a cheap, easy to use masking liquid, which consists of nothing more than Elmers Glue. I then painted the part with .96c enamel, grey primer, then with .96c flat black, enamel, then with $3.47 Cherry Red Enamel. After that, I used an exacto to score the glue and popped it out with the exacto.
I intend on taking a cotton swab with just a bit of acetone, from my wifes nailpolish remover, to frost the part.
2). Yes, the LED was placed behind the body for a test. I'll epoxy that into place and fish the wires through the body to the exit point.
3). With regards to voltage and longevity, current etc... I'm considering creating a bridge recitifier with a set output voltage and a current limiting resistor and making a plug and play kit out of it, however, I think that's beyond the scope of this conversation. I think the best and cheapest way to do this at home would be to get a three battery holder and used C, or D batteries and use the existing parts and run all of the LED's in parallel.
4). To tint, or change the color in order to stay with the white, bright, LED's you can use multiple layers of transparent clear enamel, for what ever color is desired, or you can use multiple layers of filter material, until you get the desired color density. I've attached a couple of pictures. You can get this stuff at virtually any retail outlet that has anything to do with crafts. Essentially it's fancy wrapping paper.
I hoped I've answered your questions to your satisfaction and I hope that helps.
In preparation for masking, lighting and posing, I dry fit all of the parts together and have a few observations and one question. Why snap together? Why, why, why? This could have been a slightly more difficult model and could have been a lot better, There's no way to pose this except to make changes to the structure of of the model and revise the existing parts, it's still a no brainer, but the posing aspect could have been easily incorporated into the model. The pose that is set for it's standard pose is stiff and looks like it's hanging on a rack waiting to be put on, there's no life and no action in the pose. The details are great, but the pose detract from what could have been a very sharp kit. I think one of the best poses would have been the pose of him shooting his repulsor at the creeps in the desert, a semi crouched, arm raised pose would have been far better than the stiff lifeless pose it comes with. That paint I chose almost perfectly matches the screen grabs, but no matter which type of lighting I tried, it looked like a different color every time. I'm going to try and photograph the finished model in indirect sunlight and see if that doesn't look better. At any rate, below you can see what where I'm at now. I did have to go back and sand the faceplate and hit it with another light coat, but it's looking good, so far.
No problem, glad to be of help.
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