electraflier
Well-Known Member
Hey all,
I know it is late in the thread to post on an ealier mentioned issue. I have to motorize the faceplate in my MK3 and my WM build so started looking for info and stumbled on your great thread!.
I saw someone asking earlier and I couldn't find it to quote, but it was about flexible cable for this kind of application. In RC airplanes we frequently used Ny-rods, Gold-N-rods.
Gold-N-Rods
Ny rods are nylon tubes within a nylon sheath so are very low friction and the Gold-n-rods are actually a wire cable that really gives you minimum flex. You simply determine where you want the servo and glue down the tubes with epoxy. You need to sand the outer sheath as they are very slick and most adhesives wont grab them.
The question about putting the servo in the jaw and having it move the visor and the jaw might work, but if the servo moves with the jaw, your movement arm changes so your adjustment may change pretty significantly causing adjustment issues!
I appreciate the electronics posts! I think that the Meastro might be my choice as well.
I am not as brave as you, all so I am using MightyJohns orbital hinge plans and homemade Micarta as the material
It is showing great promise due to the fact that I can use my wood working and small tools to shape them. I hope to run Gold-n-rods, but keep them in the helmet as well.
Thanks for beaing with me if this is long dead news to you all! I have subscribed and will eagerly be learning as much as I can from you all! I know as I get further into my helmet I can bring more ideas to the table!!
Thanks everyone!
M
I know it is late in the thread to post on an ealier mentioned issue. I have to motorize the faceplate in my MK3 and my WM build so started looking for info and stumbled on your great thread!.
I saw someone asking earlier and I couldn't find it to quote, but it was about flexible cable for this kind of application. In RC airplanes we frequently used Ny-rods, Gold-N-rods.
Gold-N-Rods
Ny rods are nylon tubes within a nylon sheath so are very low friction and the Gold-n-rods are actually a wire cable that really gives you minimum flex. You simply determine where you want the servo and glue down the tubes with epoxy. You need to sand the outer sheath as they are very slick and most adhesives wont grab them.
The question about putting the servo in the jaw and having it move the visor and the jaw might work, but if the servo moves with the jaw, your movement arm changes so your adjustment may change pretty significantly causing adjustment issues!
I appreciate the electronics posts! I think that the Meastro might be my choice as well.
I am not as brave as you, all so I am using MightyJohns orbital hinge plans and homemade Micarta as the material
It is showing great promise due to the fact that I can use my wood working and small tools to shape them. I hope to run Gold-n-rods, but keep them in the helmet as well.
Thanks for beaing with me if this is long dead news to you all! I have subscribed and will eagerly be learning as much as I can from you all! I know as I get further into my helmet I can bring more ideas to the table!!
Thanks everyone!
M
