Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

[xl97]

they are probably wired differently..?

I wouldnt suggest using them (as discussed in this thread already)

regular, individual leds..or a purpose made eye pcb would be best..

and (again) using 9v also isnt recommended...

5 x alkaline to get the voltage difference a bit closer to the board/components needs..without too much being burned off as heat.
or
2 x 3.7v li-ions in a 7.4v pack would be best.. IMHO..

 

[Jmen]

they are probably wired differently..?

I wouldnt suggest using them (as discussed in this thread already)

regular, individual leds..or a purpose made eye pcb would be best..

and (again) using 9v also isnt recommended...

5 x alkaline to get the voltage difference a bit closer to the board/components needs..without too much being burned off as heat.
or
2 x 3.7v li-ions in a 7.4v pack would be best.. IMHO..

2 Li-ion bat it the best way. i use this complect - http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/...h-Rechargeable-Battery-AA-Battery-Charger.jpg
its 4400 mA each and charger.

question on the topic - arduino pro mini or Uno doesnt like high current through the channels, as i know. Maybe its better (for eyes, if not use the transistors) to use 2 different channels for eyes? I am sorry if its noobs question:ninja
Thanks)

 

[xl97]

to me.. I dont see that be a valid solution..

'they' say.. MAX is 40mA out of any SINGLE pin.. and MAX 200mA for the whole board/all pins..

safely.. people use a 20mA 'max' rating to ensure no problems....

however.. is this really going to give you a really 'bright' eye? up to you to decide I guess.. for myself it is NOT..

unless you use some big 5MM HB leds or something..

still,..using more than 1 pin to control the eyes.. (or even more than 2 pin 1 per eye) is a waste..(IMHO)

when you can toggle a whole ARRAY of leds using 1 transistor...

I have 7 SMD leds on a PCB.. 20mA each = 140mA (PER EYE).. I have already exceeded the Arduino proposed limits..

Also (for myself) I value/need free pins to control other things..

servos
switches
audio needs
(future) HUD
leds

you can see why (for me at least) using the least amount of pins can be handy/practical or best practice even..

you may be able to double up and use -2- leds per pin.... and maybe use two 'pins' per eye.. totaling 4 pins used.. 4 leds each eye..?

will that be bright enough for you? depends on leds used.. application...mounting..etc..

 

[Jmen]

to me.. I dont see that be a valid solution..

'they' say.. MAX is 40mA out of any SINGLE pin.. and MAX 200mA for the whole board/all pins..

safely.. people use a 20mA 'max' rating to ensure no problems....

however.. is this really going to give you a really 'bright' eye? up to you to decide I guess.. for myself it is NOT..

unless you use some big 5MM HB leds or something..

still,..using more than 1 pin to control the eyes.. (or even more than 2 pin 1 per eye) is a waste..(IMHO)

when you can toggle a whole ARRAY of leds using 1 transistor...

I have 7 SMD leds on a PCB.. 20mA each = 140mA (PER EYE).. I have already exceeded the Arduino proposed limits..

Also (for myself) I value/need free pins to control other things..

servos
switches
audio needs
(future) HUD
leds

you can see why (for me at least) using the least amount of pins can be handy/practical or best practice even..

you may be able to double up and use -2- leds per pin.... and maybe use two 'pins' per eye.. totaling 4 pins used.. 4 leds each eye..?

will that be bright enough for you? depends on leds used.. application...mounting..etc..

Thanks for you answer. now i understand it. for first project i use pro mini, one servo for faceplate, voltage regulator and Li-ion batt. Transistors also need free space, that why i think about 2 channels. But Leds i was decided remove, because helmet was very-very small, and also it has not any sens (moto helmet). Next helmets in progress now, and about it i didnt think yetю
So, thank you for answers. next time, when i have some question about arduino, can i ask you? (here, or e-mail, or.... what better?)

 

[gbmaster137]

I followed the instructions on the first post (without LEDs), used the first code and when i try and test it, this happens

Push button once: servos just makes sound

Second button push: servos just make sound

Third button push: servos make open movement then close

I know the problem is in the code but i dont know what

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk 2

 

[memebr]

The code on the 1st page have no compilation problem.

the problem is with your hardware.

 

[Jmen]

I followed the instructions on the first post (without LEDs), used the first code and when i try and test it, this happens

Push button once: servos just makes sound

Second button push: servos just make sound

Third button push: servos make open movement then close

I know the problem is in the code but i dont know what

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk 2

This code is working ok. Its hard to say, your problem can be (i think):
1. damaged servo (or wrong degrees setup)
2. Broken button (or wrong button install)
3. Mistake in your montage. have take a look one more time. Good luck!

p.s. by the way - first button push - it must leds blink and ON. so - you have no leds, but code doesnt know it.

 

[Atlas crafts]

My good sir! thank you thank you thank you! this is by far the best tutorial ever made... as a mechanical engineer I am NOT an electrical person. yes i know enough to make me dangerous and follow your tutorial.

I was able to use your diagram and combine the servos into one ( i will send you the info if you would like) and my own design for the bracket which could be printed from a 3D printer...

good work! keep it up!

 

[xl97]

just to integrate what myself and member "memebr" mentioned (along with his diagrams)..

a wiring diagram for my code posted.. this time including the decoupling capacitors on the LM7805 voltage regulator..

 

[Jmen]

I am sorry, is it necessarily to connect 10 kOhm between button and Gnd? On this diagramm it isnt, but it is on different diagramm.
Thanks to Memebr.

 

[xl97]

As mentioned (several times)

MY diagram.. is for MY code..

"I" chose not to use an external pull down resistor.. (I dont know if there is best practice in this situation? especially for switches..devices on the other hand may need to be pulled hi or lo to work/enable..etc)

as noted in my diagram.. I m using the Arduino's, internal PULL-UP resistor..

you would need to flip the logic if not using my code but using my diagram..

 

[Jmen]

As mentioned (several times)

MY diagram.. is for MY code..

"I" chose not to use an external pull down resistor..

as noted in my diagram.. I m using the Arduino, internal PULL-UP resistor..

you would need to flip the logic if not using my code but using my diagram..

Did I compel you to be nervous? I am very sorry...
and a question about a resistor has no attitude toward YOUR code.
and exactly from logic he was set, when i see YOUR diagram.
and questions about YOUR diagram anymore are not present.
Thank YOU.

 

[xl97]

?

nervous? not at all (by any means of the word)

I posted only to ENSURE people know/knew the differences .... (isnt that why you asked?) (and also why I used caps..to highlight the points)

and it 'directly' related to my code.. so that is why it was brought up..

the wiring correlates to specific code. (the version I posted here.. not to be confused with others posted.. as it will not work wired this way)

Im not 100% sure what else it is your saying..

but yes if you are doing a PULL-DOWN, you need resistor..

for a PULL-UP.. you might be able to use the internal pull-ups (to ensure a pin is not floating)

*not sure what you mean by this: "nd exactly from logic he was set, when i see YOUR diagram"
or this: "and questions about YOUR diagram anymore are not present"

if you are asking if you need the resistor in memebr's diagram.. then answer is 'maybe' depends on the code you use/have.

 

[Jmen]

?

nervous? not at all (by any means of the word)

I posted only to ENSURE people know/knew the differences .... (isnt that why you asked?) (and also why I used caps..to highlight the points)

and it 'directly' related to my code.. so that is why it was brought up..

the wiring correlates to specific code. (the version I posted here.. not to be confused with others posted.. as it will not work wired this way)

Im not 100% sure what else it is your saying..

but yes if you are doing a PULL-DOWN, you need resistor..

for a PULL-UP.. you might be able to use the internal pull-ups (to ensure a pin is not floating)

*not sure what you mean by this: "nd exactly from logic he was set, when i see YOUR diagram"
or this: "and questions about YOUR diagram anymore are not present"

if you are asking if you need the resistor in memebr's diagram.. then answer is 'maybe' depends on the code you use/have.

ok. i mean, my question was based on logic. its ok now, there is no more question.

 

[xl97]

:thumbsup

 

[SFArcher]

I'm thinking of using an old rechargeable battery of a cordless drill, is a 9.6v battery pack. My question, this circuit can withstand that voltage? My idea is to connect the eyes, repulsors and reactor for on and off simultaneously, and be in use all the day.

 

[Jmen]

I'm thinking of using an old rechargeable battery of a cordless drill, is a 9.6v battery pack. My question, this circuit can withstand that voltage? My idea is to connect the eyes, repulsors and reactor for on and off simultaneously, and be in use all the day.

If you already have 9,6v, then jast count up resistors for Leds. Voltage is not so important, as a current. but in any case, i think your battery will have enough power for many hours of working. What is the current of your battery?

 

[xl97]

as mentioned.. current will be your concern.. giving you your run time..


if you just stick to the things posted here... (it'll just work) ..

get 2 x 7.4v Li-Ion packs.. and wiring them for double the mAh/current..

 

[SFArcher]

the battery says nothing about its Ah, but surfing on the internet i found that it has 1.2 Ah, and i have two of them so if they are connected together are 2,4 Ah, 9.6v.

 

[xl97]

so one of your batteries is +9.6v & 1200mAh? (1.2Ah)

its always best to get as close to the voltage needed so you dont burn the extra off as heat.. (which is no good for our projects)