Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

Very amazing, Finally someone who shares good ideas with like minded.

Thank very much!


huh?

are you talking about the 'tutorial' (thread?) itself?

There are many who have posted on this..

this just happens to be a bigger thread where everyone chimed in to help on 7Sinzz question/post..

many people share here.. :)

problem I see... is people taking this FREE info (where we have done all the work).. and FREE CODE.. and then go to offer kits or things THEY profit from..
 
using this circuit, can i use a 9v battery instead of the 8.4v Li-Ion Battery Pack?

- - - Updated - - -

sorry, ths circuit

Sure you can... But 9V batteries are pure crap.
xl97
I assumed ppl would know that those Vreg need the filter capacitors to work properly, i added how to mount them on the circuit in a separately schematic.

------------

powercircuit_zpsb3eb6640.jpg



Also, sorry again folks, the army is taking all my free time this year.
 
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Yeah.. I know you did.. but it wasnt in the schematic he posted. :)

posting that 9v batteries were 'kaka' was also posted. ;)
 
problem I see... is people taking this FREE info (where we have done all the work).. and FREE CODE.. and then go to offer kits or things THEY profit from..

Also i would like to agree with you on that, it happens all the time with my "work". they should at least give the credits to who designed or made the code or something like that!
 
yeah.. a simple magnet/reed switch..etc..

could be done in the schematics posted here.. just swap out the push-button..

could even be done VIA:

IR
Bluetooth
RFID
 
I love casually viewing this thread... even though I don't have an iron man bucket.

Just ran across this video today and love how this guy programmed the helmet opening and closing with some sort of ring... which im guessing is magnetic.
Skip to the 1:40 mark

Check Out China's Fan-Made Mechanical Iron Man Helmet

Its great work, i think. But for me, the most hardest part is writing a code for arduino. Make mechanics, designed all details, connect electronics, do paintjob - its easy for me. But code)))
And thanks to people, who SHARED FREE codes, pictures and diagrams about Arduino and electronics. Bravo.:thumbsup
 
Post the code your having trouble with.. and we'll take a look.. :)


for this particular project.. swapping out the push button for another form of input is pretty easy.. (depending on what you wanna swap out the button for)

for the usage of a magnet.. there is NO code changes needed (I dont believe).. just the type of switch used,.. one that closes when a magnet is close. :)
 
Post the code your having trouble with.. and we'll take a look.. :)

Thanks for this, maybe later, if you will have a time. :thumbsup
For now i havent problem with the codes. First project (carbon iron man) is finished and works pretty good. Code was taken from this post, but i used Arduino Pro mini and LED's was throw out. (helmet was made for girl and she use it like a passenger moto helmet on bike-festivals:ninja).
For next helmets, for example my Moto_mark_6 and other, i will need a help. For now - its Work In Progress.
 
I need some help,
Do you think this is ok?
2013-09-04 02.02.54.jpg2013-09-04 02.03.06.jpg2013-09-04 02.03.43.jpg

I don´t want to kill my second nano (dont´s ask, my bad...:S) so if you think i have something wrong please tell me.
 
The resistors on my breadboard are just an example, they are not the right ones yet, today i´ll buy the right ones and meke a test.
 
SFArcher -

its hard to tell...

the way you have the battery set-up going to the rails and power the arduino 'looks' odd.. but I think its ok. :)

I usually bring -both- GND & POS to one side/rail).. then tap those rails as needed.. (like bridging the VRAW to the +5v voltage regulator.. and having the other power rails/side be a +5v line for the servos & leds to tap...like you are doing)...

*make sure you have resistors on your LEDS


Tiefschwarz -

not sure.. pics? wiring diagram? are your GNDS connected? floating switch pin?
 
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to be sure.. your putting a regulated +5v from the voltage regulator.. to/through a transistor.. a 'transistor'....... and 'each' led will have its own resistor..

using :LED series parallel array wizard

LED series parallel array wizard to figure out your resistor value?

+5v

R= Vcc-Vf / If


R = resistor
Vcc - source voltage (battery source)
Vf - (forward voltage of the led you are using)
If - (mA you want to give the led)


Vcc = 5v
Vf = 3.2v
If = 15ma (0.015A)
R = ?

R = (5-3.2) / 0.015 = 120

so..following the above,....R = 120 ohm

:)
 
to be sure.. your putting a regulated +5v from the voltage regulator.. to/through a transistor.. a 'transistor'....... and 'each' led will have its own resistor..

using :LED series parallel array wizard

LED series parallel array wizard to figure out your resistor value?

+5v

R= Vcc-Vf / If


R = resistor
Vcc - source voltage (battery source)
Vf - (forward voltage of the led you are using)
If - (mA you want to give the led)


Vcc = 5v
Vf = 3.2v
If = 15ma (0.015A)
R = ?

R = (5-3.2) / 0.015 = 120

so..following the above,....R = 120 ohm

:)

You also can take 100-150 Ohm resistors, because 15mA to led is too little, as for me.:p
I usually make 18-20 mA, but it better to look in Led-manual. it so, to the word:D
 
yeah.. the max rating is 20mA..

but alot of leds can be lit decently with a few mA.. 10-15 for sure..

I like to leave a BIT of room sometimes.. so if you wanna use the MAX.. use 0.02A in your equation.. (20mA)

also your led(s) might be rated for 3.3v for its forward voltage.. or under (like in the case of reds.. usually around 1.8-2.2v forward voltage)
 
I´m using leds like this ones:
cinta-tira-150-leds-resistente-intemperie-color-rojo-5m-6379000z0.jpg

3 leds per eye. they have a 330 oms resistor by default (12v), but i replaced them with 68 oms resistors (working with 9v). They are fine alone, i think it would be fine too using the circuit. I am using now 9v of power source (6 AA Battery).
 
yeah.. the max rating is 20mA..

but alot of leds can be lit decently with a few mA.. 10-15 for sure..

I like to leave a BIT of room sometimes.. so if you wanna use the MAX.. use 0.02A in your equation.. (20mA)

also your led(s) might be rated for 3.3v for its forward voltage.. or under (like in the case of reds.. usually around 1.8-2.2v forward voltage)

Exactly:thumbsup Especially about red color leds. But allways need to see the manual.
I like use up to 20 mA, because the color of led in that case, is more...hmmmm.... more live, more nature... its like a ballance on edge of life and death, you know. :D
 
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