Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

[Mig407]

@ironleoman
i have a little experience with rc electronics (like a decade)... yeah i know you turn the knob thanx for the news flash there highspeed...lol


@xl97
yes a battery would help lol ...thanx for "tech" info there buddy lol i hear they make the light go bright in flash lights too. but you can accomplish all that with a servo tester a few magnets and a microswitch for less than $20 bux in a fraction of the time for alot less money.

servo mounting/ hinges/push rods/ cable/ head clearance now that's the meat and potatoes of a motorized faceplate. lets be real with out any of this in place your programming pretty much wont mean squat. no offense.

once all that is in place...then yeah things like ardruino would be cool

 

[Mig407]

pick up a copy of "nuts & volts" great mag for electronic enthusiasts...all sorts of hardware hacks and how tos...lots of robot kits offered. as well as ardruino tutorials and kits.

 

[Mig407]

maybe he was referring to battery size or which battery to use...

 

[xl97]

thats not what he asked.. if you want specific answers,...ask the right questions.

Again you cant GIVE a UNIVERSAL ANSWER!!!!!!!!! DO you know what servo he is using? what Arduino he is using? What other components are connected?

Do you know if hes running a +3./3v Arduino board? a +5v Arduino board? What voltage/current his servo or servos need? Is it only doing the helmet FX with it? Or EYE pcb effects too?

or maybe hes just going to use a 'servo controller'... so what batteries do those PCB's need/take?

You can see how that question cant really be answered right??



Im sorry.. I just dont 'buy' your excuses/reasoning here...

1.)
(@ $20... seems even MORE expensive than an Arduino board too)...hmmmmm (fraction of the cost you said?.. heres a full blown Nano for $13.00) Arduino Compatible Nano V3.0 - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


2.)
Fraction of the time...for whom? With a decade of electronics experience? That may be YOUR stance.. (not mine)

Simply plug in the servo 3-wires (V++/GND and control pin).. upload code.. done.

If your saying it takes YOU a fraction of the time.. because you dont know anything about Arduino or are more comfortable working with this 'servo controller'.. thats different. Thats not my reality.




your 'meat & potatoes' is also a hard one to 'give'.. especially if you are looking for another 'universal answer'...


my understanding is most people use different files and buckets.. making me believe there is not a TRUE one-size-fits all type of hinge system..

there are TONS of posts/tuts/vids on how people did it.. pick one that works for you and your set-up.

Have you looked for one that suits your needs/bucket?

gears based?
1 servo
2 servo
slide/rail
manual
fishing line

you want a 'solution' buy TheRealStark's hinge system set-up in the JY.. and hope it fits your project.


either way the focus is HOW to get things motorized/working/controlled..

good luck.

 

[pRoJectEarth7]

servo mounting/ hinges/push rods/ cable/ head clearance now that's the meat and potatoes of a motorized faceplate. lets be real with out any of this in place your programming pretty much wont mean squat. no offense.

once all that is in place...then yeah things like ardruino would be cool

WOW!... finally, a guy who knows what's really essential for faceplate motorization...:thumbsup and it really makes me smile...

What you've written above is simply the best QUOTE on this entire thread... congrats man for cracking the code...thumbsup

 

[Mig407]

lol......

 

[Mig407]

thats not what he asked.. if you want specific answers,...ask the right questions.

Again you cant GIVE a UNIVERSAL ANSWER!!!!!!!!! DO you know what servo he is using? what Arduino he is using? What other components are connected?

Do you know if hes running a +3./3v Arduino board? a +5v Arduino board? What voltage/current his servo or servos need? Is it only doing the helmet FX with it? Or EYE pcb effects too?

or maybe hes just going to use a 'servo controller'... so what batteries do those PCB's need/take?

You can see how that question cant really be answered right??



Im sorry.. I just dont 'buy' your excuses/reasoning here...

1.)
(@ $20... seems even MORE expensive than an Arduino board too)...hmmmmm (fraction of the cost you said?.. heres a full blown Nano for $13.00) Arduino Compatible Nano V3.0 - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


2.)
Fraction of the time...for whom? With a decade of electronics experience? That may be YOUR stance.. (not mine)

Simply plug in the servo 3-wires (V++/GND and control pin).. upload code.. done.

If your saying it takes YOU a fraction of the time.. because you dont know anything about Arduino or are more comfortable working with this 'servo controller'.. thats different. Thats not my reality.




your 'meat & potatoes' is also a hard one to 'give'.. especially if you are looking for another 'universal answer'...


my understanding is most people use different files and buckets.. making me believe there is not a TRUE one-size-fits all type of hinge system..

there are TONS of posts/tuts/vids on how people did it.. pick one that works for you and your set-up.

Have you looked for one that suits your needs/bucket?

gears based?
1 servo
2 servo
slide/rail
manual
fishing line

you want a 'solution' buy TheRealStark's hinge system set-up in the JY.. and hope it fits your project.


either way the focus is HOW to get things motorized/working/controlled..

good luck.

- my apologies for the misunderstanding my friend my intention was not to upset you. i stand corrected :facepalm. you obviously know your stuff. thumbsup
cant wait to see your motorized face plate in action.

 

[xl97]

hahaha...

arrgghh.. sometimes type can come of 'wrong'...

Im not upset .. Im really asking.. or just trying to lay it out all out there is all.. no hard feelings (on my end). :thumbsup

I just came in the 'electronics' thread to help out.. and give some free/alternative code.. and help these guys without some of the Arduino questions I have had/worked through before myself..

I 'too' agree without the 'system' in place.. the electronics are not going to move anything... "I" just think its hard to have a universal answer for that... maybe universal per bucket style/files used?


(you'll be waiting for a bit on my helmet...lol.. I dont even have one yet, am waiting on a surreal studios one I believe is my plan.....when I get the loot.) :cry

 

[IronLeoMan]

i am using 2 micro servos of the metal gears and the arduino rev 3 uno, my friend was able to figure out the code here but we still need to figure out how to attach a power source to these components . how much power , what type of battery, and how to attach it to the arduino and servos. along with attaching the switch to it all

 

[Mdonci]

i am using 2 micro servos of the metal gears and the arduino rev 3 uno, my friend was able to figure out the code here but we still need to figure out how to attach a power source to these components . how much power , what type of battery, and how to attach it to the arduino and servos. along with attaching the switch to it all

You should read the first post again... Every single part has a datasheet (Google is you best friend, you know...), that contains every data you need. You have to use Ohm's law to reckon the resistors' values. If you are a noob, and too lazy to find the answer, you'd better order the system...

 

[xl97]

I would test this first..

but I was under the impression that:

1.) the Arduino can power/drive the servo's directly?... yes? attached to the +5v pin on the Arduino directly to Servo.. GND as well.. then your 'control pin' (whatever you use/set in the code to control the servo)

-UNDER NO LOAD ONLY!- (testing only)

In my tests.. I have had no problem doing this.

2.) the battery pack you want to use depends on the Arduino you are using. How are you powering the Arduino now? Through USB? through the barrel jack? Through the VIN pins/pads?



You havent said any specs about the servo..(or links).. so I'll just guess that this will work fine as in most servo tutorials out there they work fine.

In most cases...they say 6v-xxx <-- not sure if its 12 or 20 or something off the top of my head)..officially they say to use between 7v - 12v when powering through the VIN pin (haha I just went through this myself the other day actually).

Im not sure if its right/wrong.. but you can also power the board form the +5v pin.. but I believe this by passes the voltage regulator.. so you better be SURE its a solid/regulated +5v only!!! if you do this.

The voltage regulator used on the UNO R3 is what will determine your battery needs.

If for some reason your servo has other needs or one was using a 'motor' instead or something...... then you probably need to use a transistor, and have the Arduino toggle/trigger the transistor.. and the transistor allows the voltage/current to flow through to the more demanding components...(of which the Arduino cant not directly power/drive..as the Arduino can only supply around 40mA (max....20mA recommended) per pin)


look at some of these images:

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&tbo=d...429,d.dmQ&fp=f57bf628413e002&biw=1173&bih=742


if you 'HAVE' to use an external power supply for the servos or some reason..look at this:

(this is a PRACTICAL APPLICATION, A SERVO UNDER LOAD SHOULD ALWAYS BE POWERED BY EXTENRAL BATTERY AND NOT THE ARDUINO)

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...ZoGUaHvIJC70AGpqYCIBw&ved=0CFoQ9QEwDQ&dur=297


nice read:
http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php?topic=46576.0


and another:
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Sweep

gives you quick understanding of how it works/is set-up and small sample code to 'review'

 

[7sinzz]

Great advice as always ix197. Thank you for your continued input. We are all very grateful. And to other members that have shared their knowledge here.

Not sure if projectearths comment was sarcasm or not. So I will bypass that for now.

Mig407 I am documenting my own progress as I get to it. The issues you have outlined will be addressed and updated in the first post when I have the time available to do them. Currently that time is not available. The negative comments regarding this thread are pretty disheartening I must say! I expected better from people when I'm just trying to help out.

You have ten years robotics experience, then why Haven't you written this thread? I'm having to learn it all and document my learning process because people that already have the knowledge are to selfish to share their information.

I do not expect to be slammed down by these people because I'm unable to provide everything all in one go. My aim is to help people, not be judged. The information in this thread is already more than enough for people to motorise their lids, with the tiniest bit of further research. In time it will be complete. I have provided something that nobody else has bothered to. Please do not point out what I have not provided yet then criticise me for it.

Good day!

 

[heavymetaliron]

Xrobots loves the picaxe chip. In my opinion this is considerably easier to program just because its all written here for you all already lol. No learning, or relearning, just follow instructions then copy and paste
Motorised lid.

My bad dude, just been properly reading through the thread now that i'm getting properly stuck into this project again.

Ok so I have purchased so far an Arduino Uno, a breadboard with jumper cables and a tactile button to activate the code. Just need to purchase some servos, LED's and a resistor. I know I need a 10ohm resistor but not sure what wattage? Sorry i'm a total noob with electronics! I also ordered some really cool polymorphic plastic pellets which will be great for heating up and moulding the eyes, here's a link guys!

500g (17.6oz) Friendly Plastic Polymorph Pellets. Mould Craft Shape By Hand | eBay

Also sinzz i'm based in the UK too, whereabouts are you based? Any recommendations for good, strong servos? I've seen these but don't know if they're powerful enough for the job?
Mini Servo 9g 2.2g 2g Tower Pro SG90 TG9e HXT Micro RC Car Plane Boat Turnigy | eBay

My helmet is made from resin and the faceplate currently attaches with magnets so I need to servos to be powerful enough to disengage them.

Hopefully my parts will start arriving this week! Exciting!

 

[heavymetaliron]

Great advice as always ix197. Thank you for your continued input. We are all very grateful. And to other members that have shared their knowledge here.

Not sure if projectearths comment was sarcasm or not. So I will bypass that for now.

Mig407 I am documenting my own progress as I get to it. The issues you have outlined will be addressed and updated in the first post when I have the time available to do them. Currently that time is not available. The negative comments regarding this thread are pretty disheartening I must say! I expected better from people when I'm just trying to help out.

You have ten years robotics experience, then why Haven't you written this thread? I'm having to learn it all and document my learning process because people that already have the knowledge are to selfish to share their information.

I do not expect to be slammed down by these people because I'm unable to provide everything all in one go. My aim is to help people, not be judged. The information in this thread is already more than enough for people to motorise their lids, with the tiniest bit of further research. In time it will be complete. I have provided something that nobody else has bothered to. Please do not point out what I have not provided yet then criticise me for it.

Good day!

Don't be disheartended matey! There are people here like me who can't thank you enough for what you're doing here. I'm a total beginner when it comes to any of this stuff and really appreciate what's being done on this project.

 

[heavymetaliron]

I'm guessing something like this would be better for fibre glassed masks?

RC Car Receiver Steering 11kg High Torque Servo Metal Gear Futaba wiring wired | eBay

 

[xl97]

heavymetaliron-

if you wanna give my code a shot (post pages back) it should work with a button.. and flicker some leds..etc..

(and move servos' when you get them attached) lol..

I suggest getting metal geared servos for your faceplate.

 

[heavymetaliron]

heavymetaliron-

if you wanna give my code a shot (post pages back) it should work with a button.. and flicker some leds..etc..

(and move servos' when you get them attached) lol..

I suggest getting metal geared servos for your faceplate.

Cheers for the info dude, just got my Arduino Uno through the post today along with the tactile buttons, breadboard and jumper cables. Now just got to get some LED's now which I can either pick up from Maplin or order on fleabay. Going to have a look for some metal geared servos too.
Going to start downloading the Arduino software tonight!

 

[xl97]

nice!




on a side note..
for anyone interested in play with Arduino based stuff outside/after their IM project..

this is a nice little 'quick kit' of sensors to pick-up:
ARDUINO Compatible 37-in-1 Sensor Module Kit - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

has a bit of 'everything' in it..lol.. makes it quick to prototype up projects with this array of sensors and a breadboard/jumpers..

 

[heavymetaliron]

heavymetaliron-

if you wanna give my code a shot (post pages back) it should work with a button.. and flicker some leds..etc..

(and move servos' when you get them attached) lol..

I suggest getting metal geared servos for your faceplate.

Hi xl97, just looking for metal geared servos on ebay and my only experience of servos is from years back on my Tamiya RC car. Do you think either of this are worth purchasing or are they a bit overkill?

RC Car Receiver Steering 13kg High Torque Servo Metal Gear Futaba wiring wired | eBay

Futaba Servo S3156 Micro Digital Hi Torque Metal Gear Servo | eBay

 

[7sinzz]

Thanks for the comments heavymetal'

13kg? You could lift a brick with that lol.
Not bad price though. Wonder what the quality is like.