Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

I'm pretty sure this would cause to much unnecessary resistance as they include resistors in each led.
 
Are you using arduino mcdonci?

I use an Arduino only for the faceplate, but for playing sound I have an MSP430. I have some problem with it, because I have examples for Arduino, and I think they are not 100% compatible, so I gave it to a friend who is more better in writing programs.
 
hey gang--

couple notes on things 'I" learned..

1.) ALWAYS use resistors!.. (always).. this is protect your circuit/leds..etc. Make sure you calculate and use the correct value of resistor though. Again.. this can NOT be done until you have decided on a BATTERY source though..

s mentioned above, putting a few leds in serial will help with the high voltage and need of more current.. (but be careful when the voltage drops..leave some 'room')

2.) Wen talking about 'leds'.. for your eye circuits (like above).. it really depends on HOW you are going about doing this? How many leds? Are they mounted on a PCB? Are trying/hoping to use only 1-Arduino pin to turn on ALL the leds?

Some things to keep in mind..

a.) a single Arduino pin can NOT (usually) drive/power more than 1 led.. (this of course depends on the vF and mA need of the LED you choose to use)

b.) always use a resistor,...'usually' 1 on each led.. so you can limit the current to be appropriate to what each led needs

c.) If you 'are' attempting to drive more than 1 led.. you usually would use a MOSFET or TRANSISTOR.. by using a transistor/mosfet.. (quick -n- dirty summary).. you are letting the battery pack drive your 'led array'... and only using the Arduino to toggle the tranistor/mosfet 'gate' allowing the juice to flow through..

*You 'can' use PWM through a transistor still. (ie: fading..etc)





RE: Audio-

several ways to achieve this..

one approach mentioned: "WTV020 SD card"

There is a member here doing the "V" (Visitor) gun replica.. and he outlines this hardware with some public/free libraries on how to use it.


Another approach is using an Arduino and using PWM for your Audio output..
again there is a nice, easy and free library out for this (as mentioned before)

As is.. the quality is not 'great'.. but if you add in an AMP/filter the quality can be improved/good.


Lastly.. you can use an Adafruit WAVE shield.. this allows you playback .wav files from the SD card.....

*Alternately, you can seek out a custom solution that does one of the above for you...and fits your footprint/space available.





as far as the 'code' goes.. I think this thread already has several approaches to use.. and this nothing more to add...

(is there anything missing? requested but not implemented?)



as an example: here is a pic of the eye circuit PCB's I made..

Ironman_eyeCircuit_v1.jpg
 
Absolutely NOT. Use this calculator to get the best result! Making these ones are much cheaper too. Buy 100 LEDs (this is a good one) and resistors. I usually have a 12V power supply, 3 LEDs in series (and I put a 120 Ohm resistor before the FIRST LED of each series). You can multiply the number of series.

Thanks for the advice Mdonci!

I'll order these ones then from the UK site as they'll arrive a bit quicker

5mm Led Round,3mm Led Round,5mm Led Helmet/Strawhat10~500pcs Multi Colour UK NEW | eBay

plus i'll order some resistors. Looks like might be worth getting a transistor too although not sure what type?
 
hey gang--

couple notes on things 'I" learned..

1.) ALWAYS use resistors!.. (always).. this is protect your circuit/leds..etc. Make sure you calculate and use the correct value of resistor though. Again.. this can NOT be done until you have decided on a BATTERY source though..

s mentioned above, putting a few leds in serial will help with the high voltage and need of more current.. (but be careful when the voltage drops..leave some 'room')

2.) Wen talking about 'leds'.. for your eye circuits (like above).. it really depends on HOW you are going about doing this? How many leds? Are they mounted on a PCB? Are trying/hoping to use only 1-Arduino pin to turn on ALL the leds?

Some things to keep in mind..

a.) a single Arduino pin can NOT (usually) drive/power more than 1 led.. (this of course depends on the vF and mA need of the LED you choose to use)

b.) always use a resistor,...'usually' 1 on each led.. so you can limit the current to be appropriate to what each led needs

c.) If you 'are' attempting to drive more than 1 led.. you usually would use a MOSFET or TRANSISTOR.. by using a transistor/mosfet.. (quick -n- dirty summary).. you are letting the battery pack drive your 'led array'... and only using the Arduino to toggle the tranistor/mosfet 'gate' allowing the juice to flow through..

*You 'can' use PWM through a transistor still. (ie: fading..etc)

as far as the 'code' goes.. I think this thread already has several approaches to use.. and this nothing more to add...

(is there anything missing? requested but not implemented?)



as an example: here is a pic of the eye circuit PCB's I made..

Ironman_eyeCircuit_v1.jpg
Good work there xl97. Do you think it will be possible to buy a pcb to a similar design or will we really have to look at making out own? I've never done any pcb design work :eek
 
Im not quite sure how those pcb's are gonna work out yet..

thats just making it looks 'nice'.. you could easily achieve the same with through hole components and some perf board I bet. :)

I dont even have a bucket yet..

(maybe a trade for some custom electronics?) ;)
 
Woo hoo! My servos came through today, now just waiting for my LED's which should arrive within the next few days and then I can get going with this project. :D
 
This is exactly what I was looking for. I can't read all of the post due to the fact that I am at work. I was going to see if there was a proper type of LED to use but by the number of pages to read through I'm sure the answer is somewhere in there. I can't wait for a day off to review this!!
 
Hi I been forum lurking for a while, all while chugging away doing my (yet another, sorry)Mark VI out of fiberglass and bondo. I've already ordered the electronics to do the faceplate, LEDs, and the such. But I recall recently seeing a youtube video where someone incorporated an accelerometer in the circuit to make the faceplate open and close hands free by slightly jerking your head forward and back. Don't know if it were an Arduino shield or what. It was a late night browsing through YT and I did not bookmark the link to the video.

Just wondering if anyone got an idea on how to go replicating this with the Arduino?

NOTE: I suck with programming, alright with hardware, and also this is my FIRST POST.
 
That was TheRealStrak (member here) who did that..

and to do so would not be too difficult...

just a change in the code to detect the accelerometer 'position/acceleration'.. and do whatever it is you want done (ie: move the servos) based on the accelerometer data/feedback)


There are many accelerometer tutorials out there.. some even linked to in this thread.

:)


good luck
 
Xi97, would you mind altering the code and showing where on the diagram to put the accelerometer for other members interested in this? That's something I couldn't even begin to attempt.
 
depends.. on which acceleromater you want to use..

which format/protocol it uses....etc..


then you test for a 'sweet' spot.... depending on the motion you desired to trigger the audio file to play/led to light/servo to move..etc.. (whatever it is you want to do)

I 'know' TheRealStark (Ryan) a bit.. and do not want to copy or rip of his idea/IP/project verbatim...

if we can come up with something 'new/different' enough and hes ok with it.. I wouldnt mind continuing on with some open source/community project stuff... (should be changed to community project IM thread or start new....etc)



(side note: I always wanted to do a 2-part repulsor where the ramp-up sound and fire sound were separate.. and triggered by two different events)
 
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sir i think that was a tilt sensor, i used tilt sensor for the walking sound effects but when there is a problem when you use tilt sensor to repulsor, then you put your hands up the sensor will trigger :)
 
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