Iron Man Moebius painting technique ?

youngwm

Active Member
I have been building star wars kits and to change things I decided to order one of these kits Moebius Models: High Quality Extremely Detailed Plastic Model Kits
To get that deep shine when I am at teh stage of airbrushing this model I was wondering if I could get some advice how to really bring out that deep all most wet looking shine. I will be painting with enamel paint. What type of clear cost is best and how do you decide how many coats to apply?

Thanks,

Mike
 
I have been building star wars kits and to change things I decided to order one of these kits Moebius Models: High Quality Extremely Detailed Plastic Model Kits
To get that deep shine when I am at teh stage of airbrushing this model I was wondering if I could get some advice how to really bring out that deep all most wet looking shine. I will be painting with enamel paint. What type of clear cost is best and how do you decide how many coats to apply?

Thanks,

Mike

Hi ! Mike-san

Please take this as just one of the way for.

At first, paint Metallic Gloss Chrome Silver (Humbrol) on the base coat and then spray clear red for a few times (until it become the color you like). Then spray clear once or twice. You should leave it for more than a week for complete dry. then polish the surface with any polisher.

katsu,


 
Katsu,

I have seen some of your builds I got to say you my friend are a veteran at modeling. I will take your advice not sure if there is a Humbrol dealer in my area but I do have some Tamiya clear red paint. I did however buy some Tamiya red that I was going to use. I will post some pics of the model. I wanted to light different parts chest part, hands and eyes but the plastic casting is in white resin while the rest of Iron Man kit is solid red.
Looks like a nice kit I just really need to get my painting down.

Hope to get started on this build soon and will post pics if I don't mess this up to bad and hope that maybe using a clear white with a little clear blue I will get the lighting effect as well.

Thanks again man for the feed back.

Mike
 
Katsu,

I have seen some of your builds I got to say you my friend are a veteran at modeling. I will take your advice not sure if there is a Humbrol dealer in my area but I do have some Tamiya clear red paint. I did however buy some Tamiya red that I was going to use. I will post some pics of the model. I wanted to light different parts chest part, hands and eyes but the plastic casting is in white resin while the rest of Iron Man kit is solid red.
Looks like a nice kit I just really need to get my painting down.

Hope to get started on this build soon and will post pics if I don't mess this up to bad and hope that maybe using a clear white with a little clear blue I will get the lighting effect as well.

Thanks again man for the feed back.

Mike

You are welcome and thanks for the words of praise for me.
It looks like a good kit to tackle and you are going to get a great solution for sure .

I really look forward too see your work posted !!

All the best,
 
I have been building star wars kits and to change things I decided to order one of these kits Moebius Models: High Quality Extremely Detailed Plastic Model Kits
To get that deep shine when I am at teh stage of airbrushing this model I was wondering if I could get some advice how to really bring out that deep all most wet looking shine. I will be painting with enamel paint. What type of clear cost is best and how do you decide how many coats to apply?

Thanks,

Mike

Same as with a car, wax and polish. I do that to all my car model kits. The japanese have some very advance lacquers and waxes that work amazingly. Makes Humbrol look like stuff for 5 years old.

Some nice chap put up some vids of professional builders, i suggest taking a look and writing down some of the stuff they use. Most of it must be order directly from Japan. Well worth it, they know their stuff.

S. L.'s Gunpla Blog: Gunpla/Plamo Tutorial Videos
 
I want to thank everyone for the advise.. I originally was going to try the technique that Katsu suggested but some of the paint I had in my stash such as the clear red was acrylic while others enamel. I really wanted to stick with enamel and made a trip the HS and found that they did not have clear red in enamel.

Mike,

The is a place in Dormont that sells Humbrol Paint. A.B. Charles. They have a good selection.

Andy

Thanks Andy I will keep that in mind next time I travel for work as I pass that HS once in a while. Since I commute to the city I did not want to drive back to Pittsburgh over the weekend but I will stop and check out there paint selection.

Same as with a car, wax and polish. I do that to all my car model kits. The japanese have some very advance lacquers and waxes that work amazingly. Makes Humbrol look like stuff for 5 years old.

Some nice chap put up some vids of professional builders, i suggest taking a look and writing down some of the stuff they use. Most of it must be order directly from Japan. Well worth it, they know their stuff.

Thanks Ronan87 I did check out some videos and what I saw was really amazing!! I may check into some wax or look for a good polish and cover the model for about a week before applying.
 
So all primed and ready to paint. I have installed a total of 5 leds two for the eyes a large one for his chest and one really small one for his hands. For painting I used silly putty to cover the eyes and hand repulsors for painting.
I am going to try and enamel based boyd red MM paint and gold MM paint and then cover with a clear coat a few times lightly although it says on the can not paint over the gold with clear coat I may have to mask that area and after sitting for a week wax/polish for shine..

I hope for the best as I have spent many hours with the lights, building, cutting, priming, putty, and sanding..

Here is a pic ready for the paint booth.. Maybe if I get time tomorrow after teh easter bunny pays a visit to my son and a big dinner I will get time to apply paint. I hope to put on several thin coats and we will see how it turns out.

Thanks again for all advise I think I will enjoy air brushing Iron Man decent size well put together model..

ironman.jpg
 
I have had my share of problems with airbrushing getting that paint thinned just right and having splatter issues. I found that my needle was slightly bent just a little that I could not even notice.. I replaced the needle thin my paint really good and I am really happy how this turned out.. I have not even clear coated yet and it went on smooth and is beaming shine...
Now if I can just let it sit for five days and not touch it.. I'm like a kid I want to continue but really need to let that enamel sit for close to a week before the gold and silver go on then a nice clear coat..

Any opinions advise or comments please leave some comments.

Thanks!!

Here are some pics I hope this boyd red I used is not to dark I looked at a bunch of pics and thought this deep darkish red would be a good fit.

ironman2.jpg


ironman3.jpg
 
None of that really expensive humbrol for me, thanks

Duplicolor from Advance Auto parts

Grey Primer sealer

Sunburst Gold all over

Mask with my latest set of painting Templates

Metal cast Red Anodized

accent with metallizer aluminum

Voila!
 
Well, been really busy with just everything but did manage to wrap this up.. I want to thank everyone for the tips and post a picture of the finished model.. I think Moebius models are really nice I just ordred the chariot from "Lost in Space" and can't wait to get it in the mail and check it out.

Thank's Aztek I looked for some of the paints you listed searched all auto stores but could not find those exact colors you listed and think that your iron man came out really great.. good job!!

Thanks again! and please comment on the overall paint job as I changed up the colors I was originally was using, they were wrong.

Thanks!!

ironmancompleted.jpg
 
For painting I used silly putty to cover the eyes and hand repulsors for painting.

Silly putty <slaps forehead> Brilliant! I just started this kit and was thinking what a pain it was going to be to mask those bits off so as not to paint the lights. Good plan!
 
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